St. Lucia

A spellbinding otherness sets St. Lucia apart from its Caribbean cousins. The twin spires of the Pitons rise dramatically from the sea like ancient island stewards, granting passage to hot springs, waterfalls, and beaches. A honeymooner’s paradise with some of the finest luxury resorts and sunset vistas in all of the West Indies, this remarkable island is also a great hiking destination, a scuba and snorkeling hotspot, and an excellent place to try island cuisine. Capital city Castries pulses with a free-spirited vitality, while picturesque Soufrière draws visitors eager to experience its old fishing port, sulfur springs, and UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

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Photo By Corinne Kutz/Unsplash

Overview

When’s the best time to go to St. Lucia?

With a subtropical climate kept mild by cooling trade winds, St. Lucia is pretty much perfect year-round. However, there’s a greater chance of tropical showers and hurricanes from June through November. The busiest, most expensive time to visit is during the dry season from December to April. Those looking for fewer crowds and lower rates should consider going in May or June, when temperatures range from the high 70s to the mid-80s.

How to get around St. Lucia

Direct flights to St. Lucia’s Hewanorra International Airport (UVF) are available from New York and Boston on JetBlue; New Jersey and Chicago on United Airlines; Atlanta on Delta; and Philadelphia, Charlotte, and Miami on American Airlines. Interisland travel within the Caribbean is also available on airlines like LIAT, Air Caraïbes, Air Antilles, and Caribbean Airlines as well as on a variety of ferries.

Once on St. Lucia, minibuses serve as the main ground transportation. These buses run at various times depending on the route, with fares ranging from around 90 cents to $3. Cabs are also readily available at taxi stands or by phone—just be sure to confirm the fare before riding. Those wishing to do their own driving can rent cars or scooters at the island’s airports, hotels, or car rental offices. A temporary license, required for visitors, can easily be obtained by presenting a valid U.S. driver’s license at the airport, at the police station in Castries, or at car rental offices. Remember to drive on the left side of the road.

Food and drink to try in St. Lucia

St. Lucia’s cuisine, like the island’s culture, draws from the numerous neighbors, visitors, would-be conquerors, and colonialists that have passed through since the 16th century. Local food is often spicy but balanced by the accompaniment of rice or potatoes and gravy. The national dish is salt fish with green figs—a fragrant, spicy pairing of fish, fig bananas, veggies, Scotch bonnet peppers, and spices. The Jamaican diaspora has introduced meat patties, jerk chicken, and other foods to St. Lucia, while other Commonwealth nations have contributed macaroni pie, peas and rice, fish stew, and coconut-based soups. Caribbean-style curries are prevalent, and roti pockets (common in Trinidad and Tobago) are now one of the country’s most popular snacks.

Culture in St. Lucia

St. Lucia’s identity is a fusion of French, English, West African, and local Caribbean cultures, informed by colonial forces and driven by centuries-old customs and traditions. Flower festivals like La Rose (August 30) and La Marguerite (October 17) hold a place on local calendars. Creole Day is celebrated across the island on the final Sunday in October, with bright costumes, traditional feasts, and raucous parades and concerts bringing out the reveler in everyone. A traditional folk music scene survives in Castries and several other towns, though Caribbean music from other island nations is also widely popular. Traditional art is held in high regard and soccer is the most popular sport.

Can’t miss things to do in St. Lucia

St. Lucia is perfect for sunseekers on the lookout for sand, surf, and a place to unwind with a rum punch and a good book, but this tiny island is also primed to reward more active visitors with some of the Caribbean’s most remarkable experiences. Grand accommodations abound, perhaps none as grand as Ladera, the only hotel inside the island’s UNESCO site and a destination in and of itself, thanks to its sweeping panoramic views, world-class restaurant, and cultural immersion programs. The beautiful beaches of Pigeon Island National Park are a short ferry ride away, as are scuba and snorkel expeditions that introduce the deep blue.

Practical Information

The temperature in St. Lucia hovers between 75 and 90 degrees year-round, thanks to the island’s size and proximity to the trade winds. Visitors from North America don’t need a visa but must present a return ticket before entry is granted. Hewanorra International (UVF) is the main airport, but its east coast location puts it nearly an hour away from most west coast accommodations. Ferries to and from Martinique and Guadeloupe are available. The currency is the Eastern Caribbean dollar, but U.S. dollars are accepted everywhere. Hotels and restaurants add a 10% service charge, though leaving at least 5% more as a tip is expected in upmarket establishments. Electricity is 220–230 volts, but some hotels are wired for U.S. appliances.

Guide Editor

Lebawit Lily Girma is an award-winning travel journalist, photographer, and blogger who splits her year between the U.S. and the Caribbean. Her writing and photography, focusing on culture, nature, and adventure, have appeared in CNN Travel, Delta Sky, BBC Travel, Sunday Times Travel Magazine, Morning Calm (Korean Air), Shermans Travel, Travel Channel, and others. In 2016, she received the Caribbean Tourism Organization’s Marcia Vickery Wallace Memorial Award for excellence in travel journalism. Follow her journey online at Sunshine and Stilettos.

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RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
After years at Ladera’s Dasheene Restaurant, where he won awards and was recognized as a leader of the island’s sustainable food movement, chef Orlando Satchell opened his own smaller restaurant on the coast. Presentation and flavor inform Satchell’s culinary creations, including his versions of island pepper pot and creole kingfish. Innovative salads like saltfish with christophene and papaya provide lighter options. Dinners are fixed four- to five-course menus, and lunches are available as well. Orlando’s is a welcome addition to the ever-evolving St. Lucian gourmet dining scene.
If you’re staying in the Soufrière area, head north to nearby Anse la Raye, a fishing village that hosts a fun Friday night fish fry. It’s not as crowded or boisterous as Gros Islet’s weekly jump-up, but it’s lively enough to give a taste of island “liming,” or hanging out with friends at the end of the workweek. Order your fish of choice, throw back some cold beers, and glimpse a slice of laid-back fishing-village life.
Built on a deck overlooking the Vigie marina, The Coal Pot is a local favorite that makes a breezy, delightful spot for a lunch or dinner with a view. Named after the traditional methods of island cooking, the restaurant specializes in some of the best seafood on the island, including St. Lucian crab back and traditional saltfish with green fig (banana), as well as steaks, poultry, salads, and soups. Weekday lunches have a fixed three-course option. Reserve ahead for a bayside table: At night, the setting couldn’t be more romantic.
Rodney Bay Marina is a lively entertainment hub located across the water from the resorts along Reduit Beach. Head over and take in the breeze, or dine at a number of small restaurants, bars, and cafés at any time of the day. Stop in at the Bread Basket in the morning, or visit the waterfront Boardwalk Bar for the sunset and dancing to a DJ or live soca music on Saturday nights. A catamaran cruise from Rodney Bay to Soufrière is one of the most memorable and popular activities while on the island. The marina also boasts a grocery store, a bakery, a liquor store, and ATM facilities.
Pink has never looked as good as it does on this former colonial mansion turned restaurant perched above Castries. Sit out on the veranda, and take in glorious tropical garden views stretching all the way to the sea. The Caribbean menu is just as special: Dishes include christophene au gratin, grilled fish of the day, fish cakes, lamb curry, and more, all served on the owner’s handmade ceramic plates. Desserts don’t disappoint, either—think guava cheesecake and coconut ice cream. For a sunlit pink treat, head here for Sunday brunch.
The popular Gros Islet Fish Fry, also known as the Jump Up, is one big neighborhood party. The narrow streets of Gros Islet fill up with locals and tourists by 7 p.m., and by then the food shacks are busy: Hungry patrons shout out their orders and wait impatiently as the seafood steams and fries. While you wait for your food, grab a seat at a picnic table and throw back some Piton beers. Dance it all off after dinner as DJs blast soca, reggae, and international music. Whether you’re a dancer or not, stop here for your Friday dinner and some Saint Lucian vibes.
Mama Tilly’s has a way with grilled food, a knack that has made it a longtime favorite in Laborie. (This little fishing village has retained its charm despite widespread tourism in the region.) The main courses—like grilled chicken, pork, mahi-mahi, lobster, conch (a local specialty), or other fresh catch of the day—are complemented by plentiful sides of plantains, rice, or potato salad. Wash it all down with the potent house rum punch. Everything’s served family style on wooden tables under the zinc-roofed porch or indoors. The atmosphere is chatty and friendly as folks come in and out to pick up their orders.
There isn’t much to do in Laborie, but the colorful spot on the southwestern coast offers visitors the experience of an authentic St. Lucian fishing village. The point is to slow down to local speed. Enjoy the views of the white-sand shore lined with pirogues, the traditional fishing canoes. Walk around the village, where plywood homes and ancient churches exist alongside newer structures. Whet your appetite with a trip to the open-air market, where you’ll spot green figs (bananas) and cassava bread for sale. Settle in for a grilled lobster lunch with a side of breadfruit at Mama Tilly’s. Then walk north along the water to Rudy John Beach Park, a shaded stretch of sand ideal for an afternoon nap and sunset.
Who can resist a waterfall, especially on this lush tropical island? There are a couple of easy options: Diamond Falls (though you can’t swim in its mineral-laden pool) and the 50-foot-high Toraille Falls, right off the main road near Sulphur Springs. For the more adventurous, some rocky hikes through dense rain forest come with the reward of stunning cascades. Dennery Falls, also known as Errand or Sault Falls, tumbles down from 55 feet up and is rarely crowded, though you’ll need a guide to find it. A two-hour guided hike through the steep Edmund Forest Reserve leads to Enbas Saut Falls, and its clear, cold pool is well worth the effort.
From October to February, sperm whales, humpback whales, and pilot whales make their way from the cold Atlantic to the warm waters of St. Lucia to breed and mate. Whale-watching tours leave from Castries and some of the other towns on the west coast and sail north to south to spot the whales, breaching and spouting, from a safe distance. Over the last few years, sperm and pilot whales have more frequently been spotted than humpbacks. It’s not unusual to see schools of spinner and bottlenose dolphins along the journey. Some whale-watching trips offer lunch as well as a chance to snorkel and swim, so shop around for the excursion you want.