Santiago

Nestled at the foot of the snow-covered Andes, Santiago was often overlooked en route to farther-flung destinations like Patagonia or the Atacama Desert. Today, it’s boom times in the modern, cosmopolitan Chilean capital. It’s where past meets present with colonial architecture and shiny skyscrapers, shady parks and nearby ski slopes, traditional markets and a burgeoning food scene, pre-Columbian art and avant-garde galleries—all in a delightfully warm climate that nourishes a thriving wine industry.

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Overview

When’s the best time to go to Santiago?

Santiago’s mild climate is similar to parts of California or the Mediterranean. Seasons are opposite the northern hemisphere. From October to April (the drier, warmer months), little to no rainfall occurs and temperatures reach the upper 80s. Winter sees a few rainy days, with high temperatures in the 50s and an increase in smog. Come prepared with layers year-round.

How to get around Santiago

Arturo Merino Benitez airport (SCL) sits about 20 minutes west of central Santiago. Book a “radio taxi” (look for Taxi Oficial or TransVip) at the baggage area inside the airport; it costs US$35–$45 depending on where you’re headed in the capital. TransVip also has a shared shuttle. Or you can take the Centro Puerto bus to the Los Heroes bus terminal.

The metro is the fastest and most efficient way to get across the city with its ever-increasing traffic, though trains can be full during rush hour. Most rides cost US$1.20-1.40 depending on the time of day. Buses, too, traverse the city. Buy a Bip! card for rides on both trains and buses. Taxis are readily available and safe off the street. In the evening, take a radio taxi and use the app Safer Taxi to locate a nearby driver.

Can’t miss things to do in Santiago

On the other side of the Mapocho River is La Vega Central, Santiago’s main wholesale market, lively with the seasonal abundance of Chile’s warm valleys. Sprawling for several city blocks like a labyrinth, the colorful stalls and carts of this foodie paradise are a great place to find real Chilean food.

Food and drink to try in Santiago

Santiago is the hub of the food and wine movement that has taken over Chile in the past five years. Visit a local feria (fresh market) or the iconic La Vega Central to sample the abundance of the long Central Valley. Young, innovative chefs are now experimenting with “Chilean Nouveau” cuisine in places like Boragó. Don’t miss the iconic spots Chileans frequent for sandwiches, completos (hot dogs with the works), and empanadas. For a taste of Chilean wines, a must-sip in the capital is Bocanariz.

Culture in Santiago

The contemporary art scene is concentrated downtown on Parque Forestal, anchored by the Fine Arts Museum with its permanent collection and the adjoining MAC (Contemporary Art Museum). Nearby, off cobblestoned Lastarria, the MAVI (Visual Arts Museum) hosts modern exhibitions, and the cultural center known as GAM (Gabriela Mistral) offers concerts, exhibitions, and dance. Off the main square, the Museo Pre-Colombino showcases pre-Columbian art. The gallery scene is strong with established dealers and young upstarts in the Barrio Italia and Nueva Costanera areas. Chile’s national dance, cueca, is making a comeback, with nightclubs hosting a local form called cueca brava. In west Santiago, the Museo de la Memoria commemorates human rights abuses during Augusto Pinochet’s military regime of 1973–1990. Many visitors also make the pilgrimage to Nobel Prize–winning poet Pablo Neruda’s home La Chascona, in Bellavista.

Santiago a Mil, or “Santiago by the Thousands” is the city’s largest festival. Held during January, this three-week event features both open-air and indoor theater performances. In September, when Independence Day kicks off spring, many Chileans head to Parque Intercomunal Padre Hurtado for a rodeo, games, and traditional foods such as empanadas and antecuchos (meat skewers).

Local travel tips for Santiago

As car ownership grows, so does the traffic. Whenever possible, avoid rush hour (7:30–9 a.m. and 6–8:00 p.m.). During the summer months of January and February, many Santiaguinos head to the coast, leaving the city delightfully “empty.” Many restaurants close mid-February for vacation. Santiago is generally a safe city, but pickpocketing can happen in crowded areas. Leave your bling in the hotel, be discreet with your phone and camera, and always be aware of your belongings.

Guide Editor

Liz Caskey

Liz Caskey is partner of Liz Caskey Culinary & Wine Experiences, a boutique travel operator based in Santiago, Chile, and an American freelance food & travel writer who has called Santiago, Chile home for over 14 years. She focuses on weaving together the region’s unique cuisine, wine, culture, and characters in stories and pictures (with her Chilean husband, a photographer). Follow her adventures in South America on her blog, Eat Wine, or find her on twitter @lizcaskey.

READ BEFORE YOU GO
Hit a reopened California highway, chase dark skies in Arkansas, and toast the grape harvest in Chile this April.
RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
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Love to shop? Head out on a weekend shopping romp in the hip Chilean capital. Start in designer-driven Barrio Italia and continue with a visit to Lastarria or posh Vitacura with jewelry, young independent designers, and fashionable stores.
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Chile’s national folk dance is a stylized depiction of the mating ritual between a rooster and a hen. Sounds silly? When danced with gusto—the man jangling his spurs loudly, circling his partner like a proud rooster strutting his stuff, and the woman, ever-resistant, flirtatiously waving her white kerchief—it can be utterly moving. Children are taught the cueca from an early age and dance in traditional costumes during the week leading up to the September 18 national independence observances. Establishments known as fondas are also set up for a week in September as temporary venues for traditional cueca (even as some complain there’s more and more cumbia, less and less cueca), and there are clubs open year-round where families—including Grandma—learn and practice the dance.
Like nearly every Latin American city, Santiago has at its heart a civic square open to the public and brimming with life (and these squares are often named Plaza de Armas). Santiago’s Plaza de Armas is distinguished by two fine buildings, the Central Post Office and the Metropolitan Cathedral. Both buildings were constructed in the 18th century, although the cathedral was much altered in later years. The square is full of lively activity—an excellent spot for people-watching and getting to know this city’s energy.

Housed in what was once a church rectory, this eatery is named for the iconic enclosed amusement park right next door. The theme of the shabby-chic decor is functional recycling but with creative, amusing twists: School desks, century-old park benches, an assortment of mismatched chairs, a gigantic chandelier made from beer bottles, and a staircase fashioned of crutches are just some of the ways familiar objects have been given a second life here. Meet your cholesterol quota for the month with the amazing shared appetizer pan de campo, a large round loaf of bread hollowed out and filled with melted cheese.
Chile has some of the tastiest pork anywhere, and this spot is a great place to order it: in stews, as a rack of ribs, or baked with puré picante (hot sauce–seasoned mashed potatoes). From its humble beginning in 1912 (the name El Hoyo means “The Hole”), the eatery has become one of the best places in the city for traditional Chilean cuisine, attracting everyone from presidents to famous out-of-town foodies. The aptly named Terremoto cocktail, made of pipeño wine and pineapple ice cream, was invented here (terremoto translates as “earthquake” in Spanish). The wine barrels that serve as tables in the front room are delightfully kitsch; a rear dining room has a more sober vibe.
Las Cumbres is the newest of the bunch of hotels to open in 2015 in Lastarria. Cuddling the backside of Plaza Mulato Gil, the hotel fused itself to the existing colonial structure with an edgy, modern architecture. Inside the rooms have clean lines and an understated design overseen by king designer, Enrique Concha. Sporting 73 rooms, conference areas, an outdoor pool, and tapas bar, it’s just brought more buzz to an already happening area of town.
More visitors are heading to Santiago every day as the capital rebuilds to a bigger and better city.