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Esperanza is located on the southern side of Vieques island with a laid-back vibe reminiscent of Key West. This small town has an main street that runs parallel to the ocean called “El Malecón” that is dotted with friendly guest houses, funky bars and even gourmet restaurants. It makes a great base for exploring the island’s treasures: it’s walking distance to Playa Esperanza and Sun Bay and only a 10-20 minute drive to the secluded beaches in the wildlife refuge.

Returning from an excursion to Playa Negra, we stumbled upon Oro, a gallery and store, that showcases mostly Puerto Rican artists and makers. A group show was exhibited in the main gallery, but for me the most interesting area was in the back, where artists share a large studio. I’m always fascinated to see the actual work spaces with drawings tacked on walls, paintings on easels, sculpture, jewelry and much more in various stages of completion.

The owner Sarah Patterson explained that her vision for Oro had been to create a creative community hub for the island, where artists could collaborate, inspire and support each other. In addition to functioning as gallery, store and studio, Oro can also be rented for events (up to 300 people). A rental unit has just been completed, so you can also book yourself a creative get-away, a self imposed artist residency ; )

Check https://www.facebook.com/orovieques/ and for events.

contact for more information:
oro.vieques@gmail.com

Hours:
Tue 12pm-4pm
Wed 11am - 5pm
Thu 11am - 5pm
Fri 11am - 5pm
Sat 11am - 5pm

A heartfelt thank you to Discover Puerto Rico (@DiscoverPuertoRico) for 3 days in beautiful Vieques and a fun stop-over in San Juan, Puerto Rico.

One of my favorite places in the whole world—Vieques! I’m actually a little apprehensive to share, because I’d love to keep it the semi-secret it is. If you time it well, you can have this beach all to yourself.

Descended from horses brought over in the 16th century by Spanish conquistadors, hundreds of wild horses rule the little island of Vieques. The horses, an attraction in their own right, dot the landscape wherever you go. With every encounter, I couldn’t help but slow down and admire their beauty. They are naturally intelligent and curious, so don’t be surprised if they approach you or your vehicle looking for little treats. For a guaranteed encounter, look no further than Sun Bay—where I snapped this picture. Here, they graze, take frequent sand baths, and (if you’re lucky) cool their hooves in the blue waters of the Caribbean.

Seeing Vieques from the back of a local Paso horse was hands-down, the most outstanding adventure I had on the island. We went on a sun-set ride with the Esperanza Riding Company, led by Virginia hailed, Caribbean cowgirl turned Elizabathe Buyrn. Elizabeth has called Vieques home for over ten years, and during that time, built up a wonderful herd of horses for her company. When we were there, the count was at 32!

I’m always a bit weary of trail riding companies, as not all treat their horses well. In Elizabeth’s case...let’s just say I want to come back as one of her horses in my next life! This is a very well-cared for, happy crew of steeds. Right from the beginning she set the tone by asking us to lower ourselves carefully into the saddle, so we wouldn’t give our horses a ‘chiropractic’ adjustment. The horses (or kids as she refers to them) are quite the characters, read their descriptions here. I was partnered up with lovely Zorro, the ‘ladies’ man’.

The ride took us first through the hills, overlooking the south side of the island, where we saw a red-tailed hawk take off right in front of us. We went through the town of Esperanza, stopping to pick some fruit right from horseback (great vantage point), and made our way towards the shoreline. We rode along two beaches that can’t be accessed by car, just when the sun was setting. My heart still explodes, just thinking about it. Although mostly at a leisurely walk, we did experience the paso corto (a smoother version of the trot) a couple of times and that was a lot of fun, too. Eventually we went through a gate and found ourselves right inside the vast coastlined, incredibly beautiful pasture Elizabeth’s herd calls their home.


Two-hour trail rides are offered at 8AM and 4PM daily; to avoid mid-day heat.
Reservations are required! Maximum tour size is 10-12 riders.
Group trail rides costs $80 per person. Private trail rides costs $125 per person.

Happy Trails!

A heartfelt thank you to Discover Puerto Rico (@DiscoverPuertoRico) for 3 days in beautiful Vieques and a fun stop-over in San Juan, Puerto Rico. And thank you Elizabeth from Esperanza Riding Company (@ERC_Vaqueras) for an unforgettable adventure on horseback!

A drive around the island isn’t complete with a stop at Vieques’ ancient momma tree. Surrounded by a volunteer created nature park, the majestic Ceiba tree quietly reigns over its domain. Tread carefully amongst its exposed roots, and enjoy the shade. Sit down for a while (watch the horse poop!) and close your eyes, it’s a spiritual place for many islanders and travelers, re-connecting them to their heart and soul.

A heartfelt thank you to Discover Puerto Rico (@DiscoverPuertoRico) for 3 days in beautiful Vieques and a fun stop-over in San Juan, Puerto Rico.

This was the experience of a lifetime. We were fortunate to be there on the required dark night with no moon. We used see-through canoes to paddle to the middle of this inlet off the Caribbean at midnight. All wildlife in the very clear water was luminescent -- we could see fish jumping and swimming and plankton hanging around. This bay is one of very few in the world that lights up at night -- a true glow-in-the-dark experience brought to you by Mother Nature.

The ruins of this 19th century sugar mill, now overtaken by shrubs and trees, are a photographer’s dream. Follow the inconspicuous sign on HWY 201 (near Playa Grande) and when you find the round yellow sign, park your car and start exploring. There are some unmarked paths, so you’ll have to awaken the adventurer in yourself. You’ll be rewarded with crumbling walls, some rusted unidentifiable machinery, and lots of nature grabbing back the land. Go early in the morning, so you catch the best light before the scenery gets all speckled. Fair warning, it can feel a bit spokey around there!

A heartfelt thank you to Discover Puerto Rico (@DiscoverPuertoRico) for 3 days in beautiful Vieques and a fun stop-over in San Juan, Puerto Rico.

El Malecon is the promenade and beating heart of South Vieques’ community of Esperanza. It starts at El Blok, the fun and beautifully designed hotel I stayed at. Strolling west from El Blok, the boardwalk will take you past cafés, bars, restaurants (such as Duffy’s), stores and, on weekends and busier times, pop-ups by local artists. It’s a relaxed, friendly place that I would highly recommend making your destination, if you’re planning not to rent a car, while on island.

On my way back from beautiful Vieques, I had a brief stop-over in San Juan, and set out to find Olé Hats, one of the few authentic stores left in souvenir drowned Old Town. Olé is a small, family owned venture that sold its first Panama hat in the seventies. Attention to clients, product quality, authenticity, and not to forget the major boost of a New York Times mention a few years ago has kept it alive and bustling amidst the sea of tourist tchotchkes.

I had almost passed it, when I spotted a few hats haphazardly on display. I looked inside the store and there it was, the infamous sign I had heard about: ‘We do not carry items made in China!’. The shop was buzzing; shoppers were helped, hats worked on, among much friendly banter and laughter. It was fun to hang back and watch the activities, while trying to stay out of the way of Guillermo, the owner, and his two feisty daughters flitting about, taking care of their customers.

When it was my turn, Guillermo helped me chose a classic Paso Fino, a Panama hat with a wide 3 inch brim. The right size was fetched, fitted, and then customized with a hat band. I learned about the history of Panama hats, the different weaves available, and that some hats can take many months to produce. The high end ones are so light and soft, they barely feel like they’re made of straw.

Hats can be bought at Olé starting around $60, and the options to customize them are endless and fun, so don’t leave San Juan without the perfect souvenir!

Thrilled with my new hat, and armed with a recommendation to go next door to have a great meal at Café El Punto, I left. Guillermo rushed after me, to walk me over to the café, to make sure I got a good table.

A heartfelt thank you to Discover Puerto Rico (@DiscoverPuertoRico) for 3 days in beautiful Vieques and a fun stop-over in San Juan, Puerto Rico.

Designed by Fuster + Architects, an award winning firm located in San Juan, Puerto Rico, El Blok takes its visual cues from the surrounding light, land and sea. In addition to being a playful structure, it is highly functional and built to withstand storms and hurricanes (a big plus anywhere in the caribbean!). It is located at the beach, at the start of Esperanza’s sleepy malecon, with its low-key seaside huddle of restaurants, bars, and stores, most of them back open after hurricane Maria’s devastating sweep of the island.

I loved my room, one of the spacious corner suites. The way the space captured the light was uncanny, every time I got back to my room, a new play of light beams and shadows was waiting for me. The restaurant downstairs serves up amazing food, hands down the best I had on island. Executive Chef, Carlos Perez. brings to the table a delicious, fresh take on Puerto Rican cuisine, centered around their bayahonda mesquite fired grill and Rotisol rotisserie. Just don’t expect much of a breakfast at the hotel. I took a short walk each morning to some cafés nearby, to grab a coffee and omelet. El Blok’s rooftop bar was ‘the’ place to hang in the evenings with locals and travelers alike, while listening to amazing music. When we were there, the duo Más Que Dos was playing and it made for an all around perfect sunset.

El Blok currently has 22 rooms and is adding another 11, slated to open in summer 2019. We were warned about construction noise between 8am and 2pm, but I can honestly say it didn’t interfere at all with my stay. It’s of course when you’re supposed to be out and about anyways, exploring the island!

Rates start at $140 per night plus tax.

A heartfelt thank you to Discover Puerto Rico (@DiscoverPuertoRico) for 3 days in beautiful Vieques and a fun stop-over in San Juan, Puerto Rico.

Puerto Rico has many balnearios, government-owned public beaches with restrooms, picnic tables, and other facilities that are aimed at campers. The Balneario La Monserrate, in northeastern Luquillo, is a good spot for aquatic activities like windsurfing and snorkeling. Kiosks sell fritters, drinks, and beach towels; chair, umbrella, and kayak rentals are also available. On Vieques, an island off the southeastern shore, the palm tree-lined Sun Bay has horses roaming the grounds. If Sun Bay gets too crowded, walk over to the nearby Esperanza Beach for some peace and quiet.

Vieques may get more airtime when it comes to promoting Puerto Rico’s offshore islands, but the other “little sister” island, Culebra, attracts visitors for its famous Playa Flamenco, which was once named a world’s-best beach by the Discovery Channel. No one really remembers or cares when the superlative was bestowed, because as far as they’re concerned, Culebra retains the honor. Puerto Ricans come from the mainland to spend holiday weekends here, and even when it’s crowded, there’s plenty of room for everyone to enjoy the perfect sand and surf.

Hike the national rainforest, kayak the bioluminescent bay, and experience some of the Caribbean Island’s best wellness retreats on this trip designed to refresh all your senses.