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A once-impenetrable country reveals itself to writer Matt Gross one meal at a time.

Palermo, Sicily’s capital, is a marvelously jumbled, crumbling blend of old and new—a canvas upon which the region’s complex and ever-shifting history has been painted. Over the centuries, the port of Palermo was controlled by forces from the far corners—from Phoenicians, Greeks and Romans, to Arabs from North Africa, and then Normans from France, who oversaw a renaissance during which many of Palermo’s iconic landmarks and modern tourist attractions were built.

To see some of the vestiges of ancient empires, take a day trip from Palermo to the Valley of the Temples at Agrigento, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its Greek and Roman ruins, including the Temple of Concordia, remain wonderfully intact. Within the city itself, explore the attractions in historic neighborhoods such as the Arab district of La Kalsa, home to the finery-filled Palazzo Mirto. The Quattro Canti (Four Corners) lies in the heart of the old city, with Piazza Pretoria on the corner. From there it’s only a short distance to Palermo’s Norman Palace, another UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of Palermo’s star attractions, which houses the Palatine Chapel, famous for its intricate mosaics.

Palermo is also a perfect jumping-off point for sightseeing excursions to the idyllic beaches of Mondello, the medieval coastal town of Cefalù and the mountain village of Monreale, which is known for its exceptional Norman cathedral.

AFAR chose a destination at random—by literally spinning a globe—and sent writer Susan Orlean on a spontaneous journey to Denmark.

A journey into Morocco’s Berber territory, where tradition and modern life meet.

Rebecca Walker embarks on a spontaneous journey to Bulgaria, guided by locals she connected with both virtually and in real life.

AFAR chose a destination at random—by literally spinning a globe—and sent Chris Colin on a spontaneous journey to Iceland.

Cairo Beyond the Headlines

Where to eat the best tapas in Madrid, Sevilla, Barcelona, and San Sebastián—plus how to order them like the locals do.

Tea house owner, Gaynor Salisbury, shares her favorite spots in Edinburgh.

In the country’s wine region, you can pick grapes, sing songs, and keep ancient harvest traditions alive. It’s so much fun, you can taste it.

Kamal Mouzawak created Souk el Tayeb, the first farmers’ market in downtown Beirut, and Tawlét, a cooperative restaurant, where each day a guest chef from a different region of the country dishes up authentic Lebanese cuisine. Here’s his guide to the dynamic city.

Chris Walker and Morgan Hartley spent three months cycling through central Asia as part of an 18-month bike trip. Here is part one of five of their account, in which their trip is almost thwarted from the start.

Argentina at a Gallop

Celebrated worldwide for its culinary chops, Vancouver tops the list of British Columbia’s best stops for food-loving travelers. The city blends the freshest ingredients (oh, the sushi) with daring, modern techniques. Favorite dining stops include Blue Water Cafe, Cafe Medina, Kissa Tanto, and Vikram Vij’s well-named Vij’s. But those restaurants are just the start. A leader of the sustainable seafood movement in the Pacific Northwest and beyond, the city plays with a big palette, looking west to Asia for flavor inspiration.

The Pigalle neighborhood’s past comes alive in Hôtel Rochechouart, a 106-room property on the boulevard Marguerite de Rochechouart, itself a late-night destination and a 1920s hot spot for musicians, intellectuals, and artists. The hotel’s design by Charlotte de Tonnac and Hugo Sauzay of Festen Architecture builds off of that legacy; restored details include the blue mosaic floor in the restaurant and the glass elevator. The modern-feeling guest rooms are done up in a moody, autumnal color palette and feature Old World decorative details like burl-wood headboards, curvaceous armchairs, and alabaster suspension lamps.