Search results for

Less than an hour from Guadalajara, Lake Chapala—Mexico’s largest lake—offers a relaxing respite from the big city. Visitors can enjoy drinks or a meal at one of the many restaurants on the pier, watch the sunset from a sandy beach, or rent a boat to the Island of Scorpions for a different view. There are plenty of boutique hotels around the lake should you be interested in an overnight stay.

To get to Lake Chapala, catch a direct bus—they leave every 30 minutes from Guadalajara’s Old Bus Central. The air-conditioned ride through the mountains of Jalisco takes somewhere between 45 minutes and an hour, depending on traffic, and costs approximately US$5 for a round-trip ticket. Once you arrive at the Chapala bus station, the lake is about a 10-minute walk away on the main street.

Don’t remind the country’s rabid soccer fans, but Mexico’s official national sport is charreria, a Western-style riding and roping that’s best seen in Guadalajara. Visit in September, when the National Charro Championship draws competitors from all over the world, or simply head to one of the city’s lienzos (arenas) to take in some fancy rodeo skills. One of Guadalajara’s most popular charreria venues is Lienzo Charros de Jalisco, where men, women, and children compete for bragging rights while mariachis get the audience going with their lively music. Get your ticket and join people of all ages and backgrounds for an afternoon of impressive sportsmanship.

There’s a lot to recommend the Camino Real in Polanco, especially if you’re an architecture and art aficionado. The hotel, designed by the late Mexican architect Ricardo Legoretta, is considered one of his master works; the shape of its pink and yellow exterior is intended to call to mind a pre-Hispanic pyramid, and its caldera-like fountain in the driveway, designed by Noguchi, is perpetually roiling. Inside, you’ll find museum-quality art, including pieces by Mexican masters José Luís Covarrubias and Rufino Tamayo, as well as Alexander Calder. Rooms are large, quiet, and comfortable, and the hotel, a favorite among business travelers, has a full complement of amenities, ranging from pools and a fitness center to a number of restaurants, including Morimoto.

Mexico City has no dearth of luxurious boutique hotels, but Las Alcobas is a special option. Designed by famed firm Yabu Pushelberg, the hotel is full of gorgeous details, from hand-stitched leather wall coverings to a spiral staircase that surges up from the lobby. Upon arrival, guests enjoy a welcome drink as a bellman leads them to their room; explains the technology that controls the light, sound and temperature; and offers them a selection of handmade soaps. Once settled in, they can lounge in plush robes on their goose-down comforters while sampling snacks from the minibar. For a heartier meal, Las Alcobas offers two excellent restaurants. Just outside the hotel’s front door, there’s also Presidente Masaryk, Polanco’s main avenue full of restaurants and high-end boutiques.

Why we love it: An intimate stay with Pujol connections

The Highlights:
- Just two bedrooms, so you feel like part of the family
- The chance to meet members of chef Enrique Olvera’s acclaimed team
- Regular chef-led dinners

The Review:
When renowned chef Enrique Olvera had to move his multi-award-winning Pujol restaurant into a larger space, he kept the original Polanco location and turned it into a creative hub for his team—a place inspired by artist residences, where creative minds from a variety of fields (though primarily culinary) can come together to exchange ideas. Centered around an open kitchen and a communal dining table for 10, the Casa hosts a regular program of talks, events, and workshops—many open to the public—that help facilitate discussion.

Those who want some extra time to get the creative juices flowing—or just a truly unique base in Mexico City—are also in luck, as the Casa houses two bedrooms that are now available to book via Airbnb. Simple and airy, with wooden desk-cum-closet units, attached bathrooms, and fluffy white beds, the rooms are perfect for resting, clearing your mind, and seeing what comes to you. Though you’ll definitely want to hang out downstairs, too, both for the food (a chef-cooked breakfast is included) and the chance to mingle with members of Olivera’s team as they make use of the library and workspaces. Check ahead to see if any chef-led dinners are taking place while you’re there—then be sure to book a spot.

Right outside the town of Teuchitlán, Jalisco—about an hour west of Guadalajara—is one of western Mexico’s most impressive archeological sites. Discovered in 1969, Los Guachimontones includes a series of unusual conical pyramid structures, built around 2,000 years ago by the relatively unknown Teuchitlán people. The largest pyramid is nearly 60 feet high, with 52 steps to the top. You can visit this UNESCO World Heritage Site for free but the on-site museum charges a small fee.

Mexico is home to two fiercely opposing football clubs: Chivas (the country’s most popular team) and Atlas (which has only won a single league title, in 1951). The fan rivalry, which divides Guadalajara along class and neighborhood lines, persists today—and, if you happen to be in town when the two teams face off, you’re all but guaranteed a lively match. Chivas plays in a shiny new stadium on the city’s outskirts, but games at Estadio Jalisco (Atlas’ home stadium, where Chivas used to play) offer a more fun, authentic experience.

I know when you go on holiday to Bali Mexico is probably the last place you’re thinking you’ll want to be, but Motel Mexicola is an awesomely kitsch Mexican cantina and bar not to be missed. Go early for dinner because even though this place is enormous, it gets packed on the weekends. The feel good factor is fueled by the bright decor, awesome margaritas, beers served super cold and food that is as close to real Mexican as you’ll get in Bali.

Built in 1930 by Luis Barragán’s contemporary and close friend Pedro Castellanos, Casa Quiñones is considered the first truly modern home in Guadalajara. With its Art Deco design, tile floors, and floating staircase, it’s also an excellent example of the Escuela Tapatía de Architectura—the Guadalajaran school of architecture defined by its Mexican-meets-Moorish style. Today, the home serves as a bookend, along with Barragán’s Casa Franco, to the ultramodern Hotel Demetria. Hotelier and architect Iván Cordero owns all three properties, helping to create a dialogue between the old and new in Guadalajara.

Guadalajara visitors craving an escape from the city should know that the ocean breeze isn’t far away. The bohemian beach town of Sayulita is about a four-hour drive, and even closer by plane. Popular in the 1960s among American and Canadian surfers, the sleepy fishing village has more recently become known for its laid-back vibe and impressive food scene. If you’re looking to get even farther off the grid, the surrounding area is filled with beautiful bays that are less trafficked by tourists than the main town.

It’s funny that Culinary Dropout bills itself as being the “rebel child” in Fox Restaurant Concepts’ family of restaurants because there’s nothing too rebellious about this place. It’s obvious that everything in it – from the fashionably grunge décor to the uniform-free staff – is planned. But that’s not always a bad thing. Culinary Dropout does nightlife well with a selection of local and seasonal beers as well as standout cocktails like the Jalisco Flower (tequila, elderflower and sparkling wine).

Visitors looking to tour Casa Herradura—the distillery that’s been making Tequila Herradura for more than 145 years—should hop aboard the new Tequila Herradura Express. The train leaves from Guadalajara and travels through Jalisco’s agave fields, stopping in Amatitán (the official birthplace of tequila) before arriving at Casa Herradura. Once at the distillery, guests enjoy tastings, lunch, and live music, then get back on the train, where they’re treated to bar service and entertainment all the way back to Guadalajara.

“Dude” is a word that’s used a lot around Rancho Pescadero, a small hotel in the surfing town of Todos Santos, located in the Mexican state of Baja California. The rooms here, however, don’t reflect the dude aesthetic, which is to say they are clean and classy. Spacious suites offer comfortable spots to relax, with most having retractable glass doors that eliminate barriers between indoors and outdoors and open up onto terraces that have hammocks or lounge beds. Terra-cotta tile floors, rattan and wood furniture, and locally made accents—such as hand-embroidered throw pillows—are some of the decor elements found in rooms. Surfers won’t feel totally out of their element, though; world-famous breaks are less than 10 minutes away and staff can give pointers on the best spots to hang ten. Apart from surfing, the hotel encourages guests to spend a lot of time relaxing and immersing themselves in the laid-back Baja lifestyle.

No one quite remembers when the hipsters started flooding into what is still a rather Kiwanis-club-style banquet hall for Mexico’s Spanish community, but they’re here to stay. Arts and media types, often in large, vociferous groups, favor the ground-floor cantina—a wide-open, too-brightly-lit space featuring a fabulous midcentury bar—where they rub elbows with domino-slamming old-timers. Yes, drinking is the big idea, but the menu of old-school Spanish fare (tortilla omelettes, croquetas, seafood, and pork dishes) is entirely serviceable, particularly after midnight when attendance peaks (it’s said it only closes after everyone clears out, almost always in the wee hours). Everyone who’s anyone claims to be “over” Covadonga, yet there they are, nightly, cutting up with beloved friends; keep your eyes peeled for genius writers you wouldn’t recognize anyway.

The more we know about the dark side of “fast fashion,” the more we love fair trade; do your part to support and spread the word. One shop trying to do just this is Tulum boutique, La Troupe, which is a showcase for handcrafted fashions and home décor that reflect the imagination of their unique creators. Come here to browse gorgeous textiles, often embroidered, now applied to extraordinary fashion and design. Everything is produced in local Maya communities. Feminine and stunning, these are treasures at a fair price for fair trade.