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The Spirit of Istanbul

Croatia’s sixth-largest island—once known as Melaina Korkyra (Black Korkyra) because its vast oak forests reminded Greek settlers of Corfu—is covered in pine trees, olive groves, and vineyards. Korčula Old Town is the island’s treasured highlight and a UNESCO World Heritage Site candidate. Its stone architecture and historic ambiance reflect almost four centuries of Venetian rule, with towered gates, lion statues, magnificent palazzos, and elaborate stonework peppering the charming streets. Venturing out of the Old Town, you will encounter historic villages, picturesque bays, waterfront promenades, and welcoming locals. Korčula is one of the last places on earth where knightly games like the Moreška dances are still regularly performed and where medieval fraternities still keep up their centuries-old traditions. The island truly is a treasure trove of history, nature and serenity.

Slip a generous serving of salade niçoise (tuna, olives, chopped onion, and hard-boiled egg) into a country roll with a drizzle of peppery olive oil, et voilà, you have a pan bagnat, the ubiquitous sandwich native to the region. Pan bagnat translates to “wet bread,” a less-than-appetizing name for a creation that people will wait in long lines to devour. One of the best versions is sold at a simple kiosk on the famous sandy Plage de Salis in Antibes. The sandwiches are so good here, they would tempt a swimsuit model on a strict diet to leave the Hôtel du Cap Eden Rock for a bite.

Chez Josy is open every day from 8:30 – 8:30pm between April and October. It’s closed during the winter.

A once-impenetrable country reveals itself to writer Matt Gross one meal at a time.

Located in southwestern Greece, Messenia sits on the beautiful Ionian Sea, with a rich history stretching to the bronze age. Visit to experience a more authentic side of Greece, with impressive ruins, pristine beaches, and cultural activities like olive harvesting.

Located in southwestern Greece, Messenia sits on the beautiful Ionian Sea, with a rich history stretching to the bronze age. Visit to experience a more authentic side of Greece, with impressive ruins, pristine beaches, and cultural activities like olive harvesting.

Andalucia, Spain, is located in the southern Iberian peninsula. The vast area consists of eight provinces. Among them are Cadiz, Cordoba, Granada, and Seville. I sampled the hams, paellas, wines, and olive oils and enjoyed the tastes and smells of the Andalucian menus. The region is rich in culture and history. The flamenco and bullfights are favorite attractions here. Much of the Moorish-influenced architecture dates to the days of Muslim rule. Muslims ruled Andalucia from 711 when Tariq, an Islamic Berber, conquered the area and called it Al-Andalus. He established it as the Islamic Empire. Al-Andalus was a huge cultural center of vast beauty. In 1492, the fall of Granada put an end to Muslim rule when King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella expelled the Muslims from Spain. Andalucia was born and it has been Spanish ever since. Driving through the countryside, I saw beauty around every curve in the road like the rows of olive and oak trees, and fields of grain. I laughed when I saw the huge Osborne Sherry Company’s black bull on the hilltops. These large boards were erected all over Spain to advertise their Brandy de Jerez. I found them charming and so very Spanish. I saw this region of Spain as vast and very beautiful with its mountains, dry plains, and lush forest areas. So many different types of landscapes within the region. I recommend a good guidebook and an up-to-date Michelin map. When renting a car, do so in the States when you book your trip. Happy traveling!

Berlin: Off the Wall

Why we love it: An intimate stay with Pujol connections

The Highlights:
- Just two bedrooms, so you feel like part of the family
- The chance to meet members of chef Enrique Olvera’s acclaimed team
- Regular chef-led dinners

The Review:
When renowned chef Enrique Olvera had to move his multi-award-winning Pujol restaurant into a larger space, he kept the original Polanco location and turned it into a creative hub for his team—a place inspired by artist residences, where creative minds from a variety of fields (though primarily culinary) can come together to exchange ideas. Centered around an open kitchen and a communal dining table for 10, the Casa hosts a regular program of talks, events, and workshops—many open to the public—that help facilitate discussion.

Those who want some extra time to get the creative juices flowing—or just a truly unique base in Mexico City—are also in luck, as the Casa houses two bedrooms that are now available to book via Airbnb. Simple and airy, with wooden desk-cum-closet units, attached bathrooms, and fluffy white beds, the rooms are perfect for resting, clearing your mind, and seeing what comes to you. Though you’ll definitely want to hang out downstairs, too, both for the food (a chef-cooked breakfast is included) and the chance to mingle with members of Olivera’s team as they make use of the library and workspaces. Check ahead to see if any chef-led dinners are taking place while you’re there—then be sure to book a spot.

Traditional Florentine restaurants offer visitors a chance to sample the earthy regional cuisine with dishes that include bruschetta topped with white beans; Tuscan ribollita; pappardelle pasta with hare sauce; roast pork with garlic and rosemary; and, of course, bistecca alla Fiorentina, or Florentine steak, a vast T-bone cooked the traditional way over olive wood and eaten almost raw. Here’s where to find the best authentic home cooking in Florence.

It’s a single street after Amsterdam‘s Negen Straats (Nine Streets), but Hazenstraat, the Tiende Straatje (Tenth Street), rates a ten in serious shoppers’ books. Lined with boutiques, cafés and galleries, this cobbled strip in the Bohemian-chic Jordaan begins starts at Lauriergracht, where French urban artist Invader installed one of 26 mini-mosaics inspired by Space Invaders characters. Highlights include: The English Bookshop, as much a literary gathering spot as a place to buy books and DVDs made from them; Petsalon, a hat shop that’s been a Jordaan fixture for 25+ years; Brown Clothes, featuring Kings Road-inspired couture; Joep Buijs’ art studio, with paintings of colorful women, children and dogs; Olivaria, Holland’s oldest olive specialty shop; Coffeeshop Biba, a back-to-the-60s-style smoke shop that’s grown up with the flower children; Chocolátl, a chocoholic’s Nirvana; Cats ‘n Things, for all things feline; Saarein. a bar for all “queer minded people"; La Festa Pizzeria/Bed & Breakfast; ‘t Stuivertje, serving continental cuisine; and Flamework, Daniela Malaica’s glass jewelry shop proffering vibrant necklaces and other contemporary accessories inspired by her African-Italian roots.

Board the ferry from Athens and you’ll be rewarded with whitewashed fishing villages, ancient olive groves, pebble and sandy beaches, and world-heritage archaeological sites—not to mention iconic Aegean Sea views. Whether you’re making a pit stop on your Greek island-hopping adventure or holing up for the duration of your stay, these postcard-worthy hotels and resorts make the most of their surroundings.

Red Ridge Farms has been growing grapes in the Dundee Hills for 40 years. In 2005, it added olives to its repertoire, becoming the only commercial producer of olive oil in Oregon. Call ahead to visit the mill and sample such varieties as Arbequina and Koroneiki. (503) 864-8502. This appeared in the May 2013 issue.

A journey into the ethnic neighborhoods redefining the City of Light

What could an Alaska local ever discover on a voyage through the Inside Passage? Just the essence of the place he thought he knew.