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A meal in San Sebastián isn’t over til the gin-tonic is poured. No, not a gin and tonic, but a gin-tonic. This cocktail leaves familiar territory and gets a makeover in the hands of San Sebastián’s barmen, with the ratios and preparation very different from the familiar 5 o’clock cocktail. The best gin-tonics are super-refreshing and more likely to be fish-bowl size than served in a tumbler, so make like a local and sit back, relax, and sip to the scenery of San Sebastián’s streets.

Three days in San Sebastián leaves just enough time for the city’s essentials. Visit the hallowed bars of the town’s old part, eating, drinking, and repeating until you find your favorite pintxo, those small bites for which San Sebastián is known. Drink in the city’s views from the surrounding mountains, beaches, and islands. Whether hiking or splurging at the seaside spa, a visit to San Sebastián is a lesson in luxurious living.

The properties that make up San Sebastian’s small but solid hotel scene, such as the 19th-century Hotel Villa Soro and the belle époque–style Hotel Maria Cristina, A Luxury Collection Hotel, tend to be located in and around the city’s historic center. Make sure to reserve ahead for summer’s high season, as rooms in July and August fill up months in advance.

It’s easy to eat cheaply in San Sebastián, when gourmet bites of food cost around $3. But when you’re looking for more bang for your euro and something a bit more filling, try these favorite spots.

San Sebastián may be a small town at heart, but it is rich with must-do experiences for all types of traveler. From pintxos to art museums to the Bay of La Concha, San Sebastián has plenty to keep visitors busy. Experience the local culture through stellar surf, unique drinks, killer views, and Michelin star cuisine in this Basque town.

Life can’t be all tapas, all the time. It’s a taller order to find the great sit-down restaurants in the pintxo paradise of San Sebastián, but here’s an insider’s guide.

Shopping is a serious pastime in San Sebastián, and the lack of big-box department stores is both something to celebrate and slightly confusing for non-locals. Here, a rundown of the best boutiques in this posh coastal city.

Spain (and Europe) is synonymous with sipping a small coffee at a buzzing coffee shop or sidewalk café. The equation is delicate: a great coffee makes up for a lackluster ambience, and a jaw-dropping view can be the difference between a disappointing and a fabulous café con leche.

A short drive from San Sebastián, the village of Getaria sits sleepily on the coast. Set between the sea and vine-covered mountains, Getaria has a privileged position that makes it a destination not to be missed if visiting nearby San Sebastián. Enjoy the local Basque wine, txakoli, in situ. Bonus points if you do so over some grilled fish, caught and brought daily to Getaria’s active port.

AFAR chose a destination at random—by literally spinning a globe—and sent Sloane Crosley on a spontaneous journey to Ecuador.

Bataplan is San Sebastián‘s best example of the classic, European, sweaty, house-music-filled disco. It is the iconic disco of the city, the one that you can bet every single San Sebastiánite has passed through at least once in their life. Bouncers do their best of keeping the crowd decently good looking. And in summer, the above ground terrace is open. It’s a great place to drink at sunset, meet people, and the crowd tends to skew a little older (think 30s and above).

San Sebastián, for many, is a surf town. Pukas is your one-stop shop for everything from surf lessons, bikinis, gear, and cool souvenirs with a local twist, like their trademark ‘Surfing the Basque Country’ t-shirts.

This dockside restaurant has a charming historic patina, as it is part of an actual fishing club headquartered in an 18th-century military Cartagena fortress, San Sebastián del Pastelillo. Sit at outdoor tables with views of the city, the bay, and the club’s private marina and pier (some of your fellow patrons arrive by boat!), and dine on freshly caught seafood. On weekends, live music—jazz, bossa nova, and flamenco—animates the scene.