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Wandering Chef: Julian Medina in Oaxaca City

Opened in 1915 as Tent City—a string of luxury canvas tents along Lac Beauvert, with vistas of Whistlers Peak and Pyramid Mountain—the iconic Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge was possibly North America’s first “glamping” site. The destination proved wildly popular, and in 1922 a main lodge was opened, as well as a series of luxury log cabins spread across 700 acres in the heart of Jasper National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Bristling with Douglas firs and pine trees, the property sees herds of elk nibbling the grass, chipmunks scurrying through the trees, and even the occasional bear. The 442 rooming options—all of which were renovated between 2015 and 2017—include cozy spots in the main building, fireplace-equipped Junior Suites, and bring-the-whole-family Signature Cabins, all with views across the lake or the forest and mountains. The newly introduced Estate Cabins, located near the golf course, feature a private gated entrance for a more residential feel. Classic lodge-style interior design is the order of the day in the cabins, with wood beams and a combination of earthy and granite tones, while rooms and suites are clean-lined and decked out in fresh white bedding and light wood accents.

This hotel is on our list of The 10 Best Hotels in Canada.

Set in the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Banff National Park, the year-round Fairmont Banff Springs was the brainchild of Sir William Cornelius Van Horne, president of the Canadian Pacific Railway. On arrival at Banff, the tourism visionary made the canny observation, “Since we can’t export the scenery, we’ll have to import the tourists;” thus, he set about building a string of great railway hotels across Canada. The original wooden hotel that opened here in 1888 burned down in 1926, but was replaced two years later with the grander castle-meets-baronial-Scottish-hall structure that exists today. The public lobby spaces are vast, and there are countless nooks to curl up in with a book where guests will remain undisturbed. With its signature stone walls, turrets, and winding staircases, Van Horne’s gambit paid off: The Fairmont Banff Springs feels for all the world like an elegant and ancient castle, albeit one with all the modern conveniences.

Rooms in the main building come with quirky period details such as chandeliers and crown moldings, while those in the Stanley Thompson Wing (the old staff quarters) are more spacious and a solid bet for families—who will also enjoy the kids’ club packed with activities such as campouts, science projects, and arts and crafts. The hotel also has 11 different restaurants, cafés, and bars, with the choices so diverse—from sushi, fondue, and Italian to Canadian steakhouse and southern U.S. barbecue—that guests are issued a food guide upon check-in to help them make the most of the hotel’s offerings. Of course, there are also a wide array of activities to help round out your time between meals, from skiing and rounds on the resort’s 27-hole championship golf course to downtime in the expansive Willow Stream Spa, which features indoor and outdoor whirlpools, a European-style mineral pool, and 23 rooms for therapeutic treatments.

In India’s most contradictory city, artists and intellectuals improvise their way through the commotion.

Wandering Mixologist: Scott Beattie in Bali

Celebrity chefs Vikram Vij and Meeru Dhalwala serve brightly spiced dishes at their flagship restaurant—often hailed as one of the world’s finest for Indian food. Their wine-marinated lamb popsicles are legendary, but their menu has other stars, too, like jackfruit in cumin-black-cardamom curry, boneless chicken wings on ricotta-sweet-potato cookies, and Punjabi-style goat meat with spiced vegetables. Thankfully, the lines have calmed since Vij’s 2015 move to bigger digs on Cambie Street, where guests can also enjoy a great rooftop patio.

Greenland for Gourmets

The Sine-Saloum Delta, West Africa

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An aspiring bluegrass fiddler from London discovers much more than music on a trip to North Carolina.

Conveniently located near the subway, museums, and upscale boutiques and galleries of Toronto’s swish Yorkville neighborhood, the Park Hyatt Toronto originally opened in 1929. Seventy years later, a south tower was added to the hotel, with the art deco–influenced lobby space linking the two. The spacious rooms have a soothing palette of pale peach, dusky pink, beige, and gold. The Annona restaurant has a similarly rich color scheme, boldly decked out in shades of plum and gold, with plush banquettes and floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking Yorkville. The 18th floor offers sweeping views over Queens Park and the CN Tower, but the main attraction may be the Roof Lounge’s bartender, Joe Gomes: He’s been shaking up cocktails here for the past 50 years, so guests can order a martini from a man who knows how to make them just right. A host of other extras, including complimentary town car service within a five-kilometer radius, free Wi-Fi, and even a kosher kitchen, add to the hotel’s charms.

These are worth taking the long way.

Opened just in time for the 2010 Vancouver Winter Olympics and conveniently located next to the convention center, Canada Place, and Coal Harbour, the ultra-modern Fairmont Pacific Rim is a magnet for visiting CEOs, celebs, and dignitaries, along with anyone who appreciates luxury touches and on-point service. Contemporary, comfortable, and framed by floor-to-ceiling windows, the 367 rooms and suites are among the most tech-friendly around, with the in-room iPad2 allowing guests to book a spa treatment, order the valet car or room service, and control temperature, lighting, and drapes at the touch of screen; even the bathroom mirror transforms into a TV. Check in to one of the cushy Owner’s Suites for upgraded perks like bath amenities personalized with your name, and a customized LP collection to enjoy on your in-suite record player.

Considered one of the best spas in town, the sprawling Willow Stream Spa offers targeted treatments (many featuring West Coast ingredients) and an outdoor lounge equipped with day beds and hot tubs. The hotel’s excellent drinking and dining options draw both guests and locals. The Lobby Lounge & RawBar buzzes with live music and diners enjoying light bites, creative sushi, and sustainably-sourced seafood, while Giovane Café is a casual spot for pizza, coffee, and grab-and-go items. Opened in 2017, the airy, garden-inspired Botanist ranks among Canada’s best restaurants for its modern Pacific Northwest-focused cuisine, well-curated wine program, and adjacent Cocktail Bar + Lab, where culinary techniques and appliances are used to craft unique libations. Art is also a big part of the atmosphere, with installations by noted artists wrapping the exterior, and rotating exhibits and fashion-themed installations adorning the interiors.

In search of a flightless, sex-crazed, and rarely seen parrot in a land once ruled by birds.

Tea house owner, Gaynor Salisbury, shares her favorite spots in Edinburgh.