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Possibly the most important and influential publishers of graphic novels in the last 20 years, Drawn & Quarterly has a must-visit shop in the cool Mile End neighborhood. It sells work from the extensive D&Q catalog (which includes Joe Sacco, Lynda Barry, and Adrian Tomine) and from other publishers. Check out 184 Rue Beaubien by local graphic artist Cyril Doisneau.

Exposed brick, bright windows, fresh flowers and cushy seating set the scene for this French bistro– cozy, classy and fragrant. The food is fresh and French, so it is inherently delicious. Everything is prepared from scratch, using seasonal quality ingredients– many of which come directly from their upstate farm. Perfect portions with a price to match. Did I mention the husband and wife team (Zeze and Peggy O’Dea) also own a flower shop, which explains the fabulous arrangements wich they call “A labor of love”.

The City of Roses is home to some of the most unique hotels in the Pacific Northwest, from a tiny house and converted school to a hipster favorite and elegant grande dame, the options are varied in both style and price. But other wonderful places to stay can be found throughout the Pacific Northwest state.

While scouting out the remaining lighthouses left standing on the Oregon coast, I was lucky enough time my visit with two gray whales. There’s a vintage whale watching station just across the parking lot at the Umpqua River Lighthouse and with a few quarters, I was able to see the action. By flipping through my guidebooks, I learned that morning is the best time to scout for the views of the mighty whales, that like to hang out at the mouth of the Umpqua River where it empties into the ocean. In the morning light, the sun is at your back at the viewing station, meaning you can spot the whitecaps that the whales create (instead of the ones that the wind and waves create later in the day). At the station, you’ll find a sign with a few helpful suggestions to spot these magnificent creatures. You’re instructed to look for puffs of vapor that seem to hang in the air, just above the water. Those spouts usually rise twelve to fifteen feet into the air and when you spot one, you’re bound to see several in the same area. Soon, you’ll be able to observe the head, back and flukes as the whales roll on the surface.

Opened in 2012, the West Street Hotel wholeheartedly embraces its waterfront location. All 85 rooms have views of Frenchman Bay and are decorated in nautical Americana (think navy, red, and cream color schemes and lots of sailboat patterns on the upholstery). The hotel can arrange a lobstering trip on a real-deal commercial boat or an excursion to nearby Acadia National Park. There are more than 120 hiking trails that range from low-key to strenuous: Advanced climbers can summit Cadillac Mountain, the tallest peak on the U.S. Atlantic Coast. For a guided tour of the park with less effort, board Oli’s Trolley, which picks up riders across the street from the hotel.

This appeared in the June/July 2015 issue.

Get creative at Lagniappe, a homey New Orleans–style wine house with a backyard grill and live music every night. They don’t take reservations, so you’ll wait in line to order simple grilled fish or chicken or the cheese and charcuterie plates, and then head out to the garden oasis for twinkly lights and good vibes. The kitchen staff will cut up your cheese and meats and serve them with olives, bread, and jam for an additional fee (around $4). If it’s too hot, head indoors and sit in the comfy living room where jazz and blues bands perform nightly.

Just east of Old Town across the Isar River lies Haidhausen, known as the French Quarter in Munich. It’s one of the city’s prettiest neighborhoods and home to many unique, locally owned stores. The best way to explore is by wandering on foot. Shops are concentrated around Weißenburger Platz, Weiner Platz, and Rosenheimer Platz, but be sure to check out the side streets for hidden gems. Then relax and recharge at one of the area’s charming cafés.

Helmed by Chef Danny Trace, a New Orleans native whose resume includes stints at Commander’s Palace and Cafe Adelaide, Brennan’s is the kind of place you go to for well-executed classics: Oysters Rockefeller, Shrimp and Grits, Gulf Fish Pontchartrain. But should you happen to venture into less predictable territory, you’ll be just as pleased. Still, every meal should end with bananas foster prepared tableside.

I forgave the service (slow as molasses) at Donald Link’s newest seafood spot, Peche, where highlights included crab-and-chilies capellini, fried bread, and fish sticks. Go with a crowd and order everything.

Some visitors to Santa Fe are surprised to find this Gothic revival structure in the middle of all of the adobe buildings in the historic district, like a piece of medieval Paris transplanted to the Wild West. The French connection is real—the 19th-century Loretto Chapel was designed by a French architect who modeled it after La Sainte Chapelle in Paris. According to legend, though, the plans failed to include access from the chapel floor to the choir loft. So, the nuns who ran the girls’ school for which this stone structure was built began praying, and after nine days, a mysterious carpenter arrived. Neither nails nor glue nor any visible external support were used in this doubly-twisting staircase, and no one ever found out the name of the carpenter, who left without seeking payment. It must’ve been St. Joseph himself...so goes the legend of “the miraculous staircase.” The physics of the structure can be explained by architects today, but that doesn’t stop about a quarter-million visitors every year from marveling at the elegant spruce spiral. Open to the public as a privately run museum, the Loretto Chapel hasn’t been a church for decades. It can, however, be rented: a spectacular setting for a private wedding.

In a city built on dreams, Chateau Marmont is the place where imaginations run wild. Opened in 1929 as luxury apartments in the style of a French château, the building became a hotel in 1930 and, over the decades, has hosted an exhaustive list of some of Hollywood’s biggest names—Greta Garbo, Clark Gable, F. Scott Fitzgerald, Humphrey Bogart, Marilyn Monroe, Jim Morrison, Mick Jagger, Johnny Depp, and many more. Celebrity hotelier Andre Balazs renovated the hotel from top to bottom in the early 1990s, maintaining its signature Old World elegance (crushed velvet armchairs, wrought-iron chandeliers, columns galore) while outfitting it with all the requisite modern luxuries.


From its secluded 1950s bungalows to its signature pool surrounded by gardens, the chateau is the kind of place where anyone can be somebody, and no secret will be spilled. Cameras are forbidden in the restaurant—a favorite spot for industry types and guests alike—and the famously solicitous staff won’t blink an eye if guests are misbehaving or just lounging all day by the pool.

Of course there’s Mexican food, and New Mexican food, and great hearty breakfasts for pre-ski or pre-hike mornings, but the international culinary options in this funky little town may surprise visitors expecting little more than margaritas. (Those margaritas are pretty tasty too.)

Germany’s oldest and most famous university town, Heidelberg is known for its striking Old Town, beautiful setting on the Neckar River, and evocative hilltop castle. Destroyed by French troops in the 1690s, rebuilt during the 18th century, and miraculously unscathed during World War II, it’s proved a source of inspiration for everyone from Goethe to William Turner to Mark Twain. Equally romantic is the surrounding valley, full of forests, fortresses, castles, and charming villages like Bad Wimpfen.

At this Charleston hit, James Beard Award–winning chef Sean Brock reinterprets traditional Southern dishes with a steadfast commitment to local and regional ingredients—the restaurant even has its own garden. Constantly changing, the menu is filled with inventive new takes on Southern cuisine, such as pig’s ear lettuce wraps done up “buffalo” or “Kentukyaki” style.

Don’t miss the Carolina Grouper—it’s one of the most beautiful dishes at this establishment, and a regional classic you have to try while visiting Charleston.

Note that the restaurant also has locations in Nashville, TN and Savannah, GA.

When it comes to po’ boys, everyone has his/her favorite spot. Mine has always been Domilise’s--until I went to Parkway Bakery & Tavern on my way back from City Park. Like Domilise’s, it’s off the beaten path, but well worth it. I ordered the roast beef po’ boy and, since it was the special, the fried pickles. I suggest you do the same. I tripled bagged the duo and made my way back to my hotel. There, I unpacked my goods and found my po’ boy still very much intact and my pickles crisp, warm, and tangy.