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To get a feel for the real Dubai, there’s no better way than to book a tour with Frying Pan Adventures. Frying Pan was the first culinary tour outfit in Dubai, and their success is well deserved. A day with Frying Pan will get you out of the glitzy hotel scene and into Dubai’s neighborhoods, which can be hard to imagine when you’re sitting in a bar 25 stories above the city. On Arva’s Middle Eastern food tour you’ll try Syrian, Jordanian, Palestinian, Egyptian, Iranian, and Emirati cuisines. Good Emirati food is difficult to find outside of homes, so the tour is worth doing for that chance alone. You’ll get to sample delectable treats: from succulent Persian kebabs and wonderful Egyptian pastries to baklava dripping with honey and piping hot flat bread straight from the oven. Arva’s walking tours (or air-conditioned vans, in the hotter months), will take you from food trucks to tiny Egyptian kitchens, from Iranian saffron rice to Emirati date-scented desserts. Make sure to book well in advance, especially in the winter months.

For every Hindu in Bali, the tooth-filing ceremony (potong gigi in Indonesian or mesangih or mepandes in Balinese) is a rite of passage for teenagers, one of several coming-of-age ceremonies. The filing down of the canine teeth is symbolic of the change from animal to human and also represents the controlling of desire, greed, anger, strong emotion, confusion, and jealousy. The ceremony is family-centric: Participants are considered very vulnerable as their teeth are filed and must therefore be surrounded by family as protection. It’s not just for teens; the Balinese often combine this ritual with marriage rites to save the cost of having two ceremonies. Some villages even hold mass tooth filings for anyone who has not had them done yet. The filing is done by a priest, who stops from time to time so the filed teeth can be checked in the mirror and made straighter or flatter. (When I married my Balinese husband, I had my teeth filed at our wedding ceremony. It was terrifying at first but much more pleasant than a trip to the dentist in the end.)

La Ciudadela has been the go-to market for handcrafts for nearly 50 years, and it features crafts and handmade objects from all over Mexico. Expect to find everything from textiles (blankets, tablecloths, and hand-embroidered clothing) to ceramics, plates, cups, and serving dishes. Other items to be had here include mirrors, furniture, jewelry and hair accessories, and all manner of small and large handcrafts, including hand-beaded masks. Toys, dolls, and stuffed animals made by hand by artisans from Chiapas are also on offer. The market is open daily.

It sounds “too good to be true”, right? No big resorts... miles of remote beaches... turquoise water... no crowds. The coastline of Cambodia is truly a tropical paradise! There are signs that things are changing, but today Otres Beach, just outside the Cambodian town of Sihanoukville, is untouched by commercial tourism. The beaches are empty and clean. Decent marijuana can be purchased legally (although the law is grey in this area as it is only legal to consume and NOT smoke!) at a number of hip bungalow bars set up along the beach. Drinks are cheap and very easy to come by, and your toes never have to leave the sand. Everything is rustic here, but there is a lot of charm in the dozen establishments along this remote stretch of beach on the Gulf of Thailand. The roads are still dirt. It’s off the beaten path. Air-conditioning is pretty much nonexistent here, and even electricity is hit or miss. Some describe the vibe here like Thailand 20 years ago before tourism was that country’s biggest industry. It’s what all of us beachcombers are looking for, and I found it at Otres Beach, Sihanoukville, Cambodia!

Reykjavík’s Dill restaurant, run by chef Gunnar Karl Gíslason and sommelier Ólafur Örn Ólafsson, is the first venue in Iceland to win a coveted Michelin star. It specializes in New Nordic Cuisine, which means that the kitchen updates traditional dishes such as arctic char, pork belly, and lamb shanks in highly creative and ultradelicious ways—often pairing them with healthy ingredients like barley, berries, and kale. The restaurant is open four evenings a week, and the seven-course menu changes regularly based on availability of local ingredients. Food can be paired with a fabulous selection of champagnes and wines. It’s not the cheapest choice in town, but it is one of the best.

On the shoulders of Bali’s most sacred mountain is perched its Mother Temple, Pura Besakih, a complex of 23 sacred buildings. Several times annually, pilgrims flock here from around the island—on the backs of motorbikes, in buses and bemos, even crowded together, standing-room only, in the beds of trucks—to make offerings at the several clan temples (each family is part of a clan represented here) and at the largest and most important temple, Pura Penataran Agung, tiered and built into the mountain’s slope. Make sure to climb to the impressive second courtyard, which is as far as tourists are generally allowed to go. The complex is most alive during frequent festivals, when thousands descend, ceremonially dressed, and flow throughout the temple grounds. When the sky is clear, you can see from here down into the valley and out to sea.

When the swell is up and the waves are high, Sunset Beach is Surf City, UAE. Count on left-breaking waves at the Jebel Ali end and right-breaking waves at the northern tip of the beach. In between, expect a busy beach full of tourists, locals, and expats soaking up the sun. Palace Beach offers easy access to the waterways of the Palm Jumeirah (perfect for kayakers and stand-up paddleboarders), a glimpse of the great sail of a building that is the Burj Al Arab in the distance, sugary white sand between the toes, and crystalline water all the way to the horizon. If you forgot your water-sports equipment at home, Club Joumana at the sprawling JA Jebel Ali Beach Resort rents it all—from Zapcat inflatable racing boats to paddleboards.

Escape the hubbub of Honolulu and stretch your legs on this 4.4-mile, moderate, out-and-back path. Somewhat steep, this serious glute workout attracts a lot of trail runners, especially on the weekends. The hike begins among rocks and small shrubs, then snakes among massive tree roots, before the dirt stairs near the top. The ridge unfurls gorgeous views of Waimanalo and the Nā Mokulua Islands, as well as Rabbit Island and Koko Crater. Note: drivers have to park in a residential neighborhood, then walk up an access road. Start early to avoid the heat and crowds, and make sure to bring plenty of water.

Chances are that when you return home after your trip to Key West, someone will ask you if you went to the Green Parrot. It’s that kind of iconic bar, the kind your parents’ friends ended up at over spring break in college long ago. The bar started as a local grocery store about a hundred years ago; the building became the Brown Derby, a bar that was popular first with the submarine sailors from the naval base down the street.


When the naval base closed in the ‘70s, the bar transitioned into a hangout for fishermen and local sailors and the hippies that began to drift into town. The Green Parrot still has the air of a honky-tonk, lit exclusively by spotlight and neon, with a roster of almost-nightly live music, mostly of the bluesy, rollicking sort.

Tucked into the ancient, magical maze that is Old Acre, the Efendi Hotel looks out onto the city walls and the sea just beyond. Combining two Ottoman palaces, this labor of love from celebrity chef Uri Jeremias—whose nearby restaurant, Uri Buri, is practically a foodie pilgrimage site—took restorers and artisans the better part of a decade to complete under the watch of the Antiquities Authority. The layer cake of history beneath the hotel includes a 12th-century Crusader cellar, where you should head for a wine tasting, and a 400-year-old hammam, where you should book a Turkish bath. Also not to be missed at the Efendi: the 19th-century fresco commemorating the debut of Istanbul’s Orient Express station, the gorgeously preserved ceilings, and the rooftop bar (be sure to go at sunset, when your drinks will be accompanied by a chorus of Muezzin calls). Though you’ll be tempted to linger over the sublime views—and fresh dates—in your room, get out during the day and explore the surrounding alleys, mosques, synagogues, markets, tunnels, fortress, citadel, and port.

An hour’s drive from Tórshavn, in one of the Faroe’s northernmost settlements, sits the family-run Gjáargardur Guesthouse of Gjógv, bordered by steep slopes and a natural harbor. With its wooden exterior and traditional, turf-topped roof, it practically blends into the surrounding nature, putting the focus on its sweeping ocean views. Rooms here are modern and spacious, with large windows that look out across the valley, and service is friendly and accommodating. An on-site restaurant serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner during high season, while a gift shop stocks postcards, ice cream, and Faroese woolen jumpers that make for perfect souvenirs. There’s even a small playroom in the basement for children, though most guests are here to hike Slaettaratindur—the highest mountain in the Faroe Islands, which looms over the guesthouse and its namesake village.

Wilensky’s is sort of an institution in the Mile End. Family-owned since its opening in 1932, the place is famous for its extremely cheap snacks, no-nonsense approach, and retro decor. Pressed tin ceiling, Kik Cola clock, ring-up cash register, old-fashioned soda fountain—this place sometimes feels like a time warp or, at the very least, a museum. Perhaps what makes Wilensky’s so special is, incidentally, the Special ($3.90): “All-beef salami with all-beef baloney grilled to mouth-watering perfection on a tasty roll with a hint of mustard.” But don’t try to change anything in it—the owner, Ruth, will not have it. The Special is what it is, and no amount of money will make Ruth change it. Hell, she even wrote a poem about it: When ordering a Special, you should know a thing or two. It is always served with mustard; it is never cut in two. Don’t ask us why; just understand that this is nothing new. This is the way that it’s been done since 1932. Amen to that.

L’Express, on rue St-Denis in the Plateau Mont-Royal neighborhood, opened in 1980 and has about it the air of a beloved institution. Indeed, with its timeless style, it feels even older than it is. This popular spot serves classic renditions of bistro fare—steak tartare, bone marrow, onion soup—into the early morning hours (2 a.m. except for Sundays, when it closes at 1 a.m.). When the kitchen ventures into new territory, the results are impressive. The spaghetti with mushrooms is unconventional in its presentation (topped with a healthy serving of arugula)—one of those dishes you try on the road and then want to re-create at home. Reservations recommended.

Lenbachhaus is Munich‘s premier art gallery. It reopened in May 2013 after a four-year renovation of the original building (a late-19th-century Florentine-style villa for painter Franz von Lenbach), plus the addition of a modern wing designed by Norman Foster. The exterior of the new wing features striking, golden tubes. For Norman Foster fans, the museum’s new exterior is iconic—a beautiful play on color, pattern, and geometry. Try to see it at sunset, when the tubes are seemingly more golden, rich, and alluring. The Lenbachhaus redesign marries the old with the new, especially in the triple-height, sky-lit lobby atrium. Immediately upon stepping into the museum, your attention is drawn to what appears to be an enormous hanging icicle, which is in fact a specially commissioned work by Icelandic artist Olafur Eliasson called Wirbelwerk. The new wing serves as a “jewel box” for the museum’s best-known works, the “Blue Rider” collection of 20th-century Expressionist art. There is also a new garden and a restaurant with an outdoor terrace. With the addition of new galleries and a bold redesign, Lenbachhaus further cements its reputation as one of Bavaria’s leading cultural centers.

The Carrington’s long and rich history spans nearly 125 years since her opening by Sydney hotelier Harry Rowell. Originally named The Great Western, this Grand Old Lady soon became a popular retreat for international guests, Sydney’s elite, and adventurers eager to explore the Blue Mountains’ natural wonders. The hotel is steeped in history, tales of adventures and royalty, and perhaps even a ghost tale or two. The walls are covered with vintage photographs and the place looks like it was sealed in a time capsule (and yet still boasts modern amenities like wifi). The hotel bar is vintage, perfect for a glass of wine or local pint after a long day of adventures in the Blues. There are function rooms, a pool table, an elegant dining room (plus a more casual dining establishment, which used to be the town bank, on the property, as well as a stand-alone pub), as well as a 100-year old regulation snooker table. An onsite bottle shop is available, offering a wide variety of gourmet foods and excellent beers and wines, and a brewpub is even in the works.