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There are two different kinds of whales that visit Baja each year, the humpback and the gray. The humpback can usually be spotted October through January, then again in April. The gray whale arrives from Alaska in late January and stays through mid-March to breed, mate and train their young for the long journey back. I was out on the water in a small fishing boat early February and we saw a great number of humpbacks–a truly magical and breathtaking experience. Unforgettable!

Inside the Mercado 20 de Noviembre you’ll find many food stalls to choose from. The Comedor Maria Teresa (Local #38) is a good bet. They have excellent mole, which you can enjoy with chicken and rice, or in enchiladas, as pictured above. A full Oaxacan breakfast starts with a chocolate de leche and pan de yema. The chocolate is served in a bowl to make it more convenient for dunking your bread. Later in the day choose a tlayuda or caldo de pollo. You really can’t go wrong!

The weavers in Teotitlan del Valle may be more renowned, but the backstrap loom weavers of Santo Tomás Jalieza are practicing the art in a way that dates back to very ancient times. The local market is set up in the main square and every day you can see weavers at work and browse the products of their labor, but Fridays are particularly busy. They sell belts, handbags, change purses, table runners and place mats at reasonable prices. This small community is located 15 miles south of Oaxaca city and can easily be combined with a day trip to Ocotlan.

The rooftop terrace of Casa Crespo restaurant affords this view of Santo Domingo church. It’s a great place to watch the sunset or while away the evening with dinner or drinks. The menu is varied and includes some local specialties such as mole and “stone soup,” a seafood soup that is cooked with hot rocks at your table. For appetizers, try the stuffed squash blossoms. They’re stuffed with cheese and deep fried - delectable but caloric. A 15% service charge is automatically added to your bill, so no need to tip extra.

The Tule tree is estimated to be over 2,000 years old. It’s not the oldest or the tallest, but at about 30 feet in diameter, it is the widest tree in the world, and it’s quite impressive. The species is Taxodium mucronatum, but it’s commonly known as a Montezuma Cypress. If you visit on the weekend, you can ask one of the local children who act as guides to give you a “tour” of the tree—they point out figures in the natural formations of the tree’s bark and branches.

A massive stretch of soft white sand calls you to the Caribbean at Cancún’s largest public beach, a quiet spot amid Hotel Zone resorts. The waves can be a bit rougher than elsewhere, so it may not be great for swimming, but the strand is one of the city’s few surfing spots. Playa Delfines also goes by the name El Mirador, thanks to its spacious hilltop deck overlooking the ocean and hotel skyline and its large, colorful “Cancún” sign that’s perfect for photo ops. Among the other welcome amenities: restrooms, a playground, small shady palapas, and an outdoor gym.

There are several of these cliff-diving shows a day (unfortunately I can’t remember the name of the cove, but say ‘cliff divers’ in Acapulco and everyone knows what you’re talking about). To call them ‘shows’ is a bit belittling, though. They dive into the water from where you’re standing and then scale the cliff-side from the water up. A few of them prayed at a little make-shift church on the top before diving. It was interesting to see them analyze each coming wave, and time their dives accordingly.

In a city built on dreams, Chateau Marmont is the place where imaginations run wild. Opened in 1929 as luxury apartments in the style of a French château, the building became a hotel in 1930 and, over the decades, has hosted an exhaustive list of some of Hollywood’s biggest names—Greta Garbo, Clark Gable, F. Scott Fitzgerald, Humphrey Bogart, Marilyn Monroe, Jim Morrison, Mick Jagger, Johnny Depp, and many more. Celebrity hotelier Andre Balazs renovated the hotel from top to bottom in the early 1990s, maintaining its signature Old World elegance (crushed velvet armchairs, wrought-iron chandeliers, columns galore) while outfitting it with all the requisite modern luxuries.


From its secluded 1950s bungalows to its signature pool surrounded by gardens, the chateau is the kind of place where anyone can be somebody, and no secret will be spilled. Cameras are forbidden in the restaurant—a favorite spot for industry types and guests alike—and the famously solicitous staff won’t blink an eye if guests are misbehaving or just lounging all day by the pool.

Chef/owner Roberto Solís is widely considered one of Mexico’s best chefs—and Néctar deserves its reputation as one of the area’s top restaurants. The kitchen serves up traditional dishes from the area, all featuring local and seasonal ingredients so the menu changes depending on what’s being harvested around the Yucatán. But several local favorites are always available, including cochinita pibil(roast pork); relleno negro-stuffed turkey; and tikin xic (fish marinated in Achiote and sweet chile.

Mérida’s many historic plazas are jam packed with open air event throughout the year. Popular with tourists and locals alike is Yucatecan “Jarana”, a traditional form of dance accompanied by live music. One of the best places to see the show is at “Serenata Yucateca”, a free event each Thursday in the newly restored Plaza Santa Lucía, a traditional square just four blocks from the main Centro plaza. The musicians, singers and dancing “mestizos”, decked out in their colorful costumes begin the show at 9 PM, as they have for the last 40 years. There are plenty of benches to sit to enjoy the show. Also, with restaurants and bars spilling out on the sidewalk, its a great way to catch a dinner and show. Santa Lucía in not just a park, it is also the name of the neighborhood that has come alive since the recent renovation. With traditional cafes, restaurants and shops such as La Chaya Maya and Coqui Coqui Perfumerie, it is fast becoming the “it” place to be in downtown Mérida. Many colonial houses with a private pools are available to rent in Santa Lucia and in the surroundings so you can close the action. (Images courtesy of Merida.gob.mx and aany.org)

Named after the Latin word for “harbor,” Hotel Hafnia sits in the center of Old Town Tórshavn, just steps from the wharf and Faroese Parliament buildings. Surrounded by shops and restaurants, the property offers a convenient location, as well as comfortable accommodations. All rooms feature satellite TV, mini bars, and free Wi-Fi, while some larger options include seating areas and complimentary access to the hotel sauna. Book a renovated Nordic Double room for a modern color scheme, stylish furniture, and puffin murals, or one of the hotel’s three self-catering cottages, which showcase old Faroese architecture, kitchenettes, and attics with additional beds.

In addition to a warm, welcoming lobby with couches draped in sheepskin, the hotel offers a top-floor conference facility with sweeping views of the city. There are also three dining options on site, from a namesake restaurant (popular for its breakfast buffet with locally sourced ingredients) to Kafe Kaspar (for bagels, salads, and home-baked items) and Katrina Christiansen (serving a tapas-inspired menu in a historic setting). Note that Hotel Hafnia does not have parking facilities and, while there are some public spaces outside the hotel, they’re limited to 30 minutes on weekdays.

Downtown Denver’s most playful hotel, The Curtis offers whimsy in spades. Guests are encouraged to unleash their inner child with board games, toys, and old-fashioned candy in the lobby, while each level riffs on a different pop-culture genre, from “Sci Fi” adventure to “Dun Dun Dunnnnn!” horror (fittingly on the 13th floor). Standard rooms are filled with pops of color; unexpected elements in themed rooms include green ectoplasm-inspired floors in the Ghostbusters room and a wall-mounted sailfish in the Jimmy Buffett room (perhaps you’ll finally find that lost shaker of salt). The Corner Office restaurant and martini bar is retro-cool, with plaid upholstery and ‘60s-mod light fixtures, and the menu highlights street and comfort food favorites from all over the globe alongside inventive housemade cocktails and Colorado craft beer. There are also 24-hour business and fitness centers, but nothing about the hotel takes itself too seriously—except, of course, when it comes to showing guests a good time.

Situated on Northeast Portland’s Alberta Street, smack in the middle of the Alberta Arts District, Caravan is an unique alternative to the same old hotels or vacation rentals. The hotel is comprised of six tiny, individually styled houses for rent, from the cabin-like Skyline (made mostly from upcycled material) to the Amazing Mysterium (a vaguely steampunk affair modeled after a vardo gypsy wagon, with lovely additions such as stained-glass windows and lots of built-in shelving). In true Portland style, the houses are clustered together in a “pod,” similar to how many of the city’s famous food carts are arranged. In lieu of a lobby, there’s a central outdoor common area with a fire pit (s’more-making is encouraged, and supplies are provided). Note that live bands perform for guests and a limited number of community members on Wednesday evenings during the summer months, and the whole area gets busy on the first Thursday of every month, when Alberta Street transforms into a pedestrian-only night market-cum-street party that lasts well into the evening.

Known locally as Ho Tay and situated just northwest of the Old Quarter, the city’s largest lake is the backdrop to this whitewashed hotel, whose layout fittingly mimics the shape of the open lotus flowers that line its shores. The main building houses about half the rooms, most of the lounges and restaurants, and a bright atrium lobby with an elegant 23-foot crystal chandelier for a focal point. Lit at night by torches, a hedge-trimmed walkway leads to a small island where you’ll find the Sunset Bar (no surprises on the name), as well as three pavilions with additional rooms built on the lake. Accommodations start at a generous 460 square feet and feature contemporary furnishings, marble and wood floors, stone wall accents, and Vietnamese timber shutters, as well as roomy soaking tubs, padded leather headboards, and private balconies with views of the lake or Hanoi’s skyline.

Housed in a trio of historic buildings spanning the 14th to the 20th centuries, the Hotel Danieli, a Luxury Collection Hotel, overlooks Venice’s lively Riva degli Schiavoni waterfront promenade in San Marco—a prime people-watching spot. The noble family who lived in the original Byzantine-style palazzo had four doges in their line. Its second act as a hotel began in 1822, and it has continued to host notable guests, from Charles Dickens to Charlie Chaplin. The gilded lobby, with its Murano glass chandeliers, pink marble columns, and stained-glass windows, sets the opulent tone throughout.


Rooms are styled with Italian antiques, original artwork, and Murano glass mirrors or chandeliers, and many have gorgeous lagoon views. Mingle with guests over martinis at the award-winning bar, or watch the sunset from the terrazza.

Don’t miss dinner at the restaurant, either—a location you may recognize. In the Angelina Jolie/Johnny Depp film The Tourist, the famous twosome dine at this famous restaurant. Part of the historic Hotel Danieli, the stupendous views from the terrace give you a front seat to the great show of the Grand Canal.