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Wandering Chef: Tony Maws in Jamaica

Volunteering with Projects Abroad in Jamaica

Chefs bring fresh flavors from Portugal’s former colonies to Lisbon’s plates.

“Mon” cannot live by roadside jerk chicken alone, so here’s a list of favorites that includes other Jamaican treats like pepper shrimp, bammy, Ital vegetarian food, and, of course, the fine-dining, white-tablecloth iterations of those addictive dishes.

Brooklyn native, Jason Lampkin, shares his love for the neighborhood Fort Greene and the staple places to visit.

On the beach, over the water, in a shack by the roadside surrounded by trees—Jamaica has some of the most atmospheric and charming bars (and people) in the world. Whether you’re drinking rum, Red Stripe, or wine, belly up to these terrific Jamaican watering holes.

On the Caribbean island of Tobago, you’ll find sand, surf—and the fastest goats on the planet. Now if they’d just run in a straight line….

How to spend one week in Jamaica? Combine the west and south coasts for an ideal first timer’s look at the island. Start with the white sands of Negril, bathe in nearby rivers and waterfalls, and continue on to the charming Jamaican fishing villages of Treasure Beach before arriving back in Montego Bay.

The south coast of Jamaica is rarely a first timer’s choice because of its relative isolation. But those who do venture south will find nature, wildlife, and tranquil beaches. Treasure Beach, the most popular retreat area, is a string of Jamaican fishing villages resting on black sand. Nearby are natural wonders like Black River and YS Falls, while offshore sits the famous Pelican Bar. The pace is slow here in south Jamaica, and that’s exactly why you’d come.

Today’s cosmopolitan, cool Berlin is a global dining city with top places to eat that range from casual street stands selling affordable snacks to elegant restaurants offering Michelin-star fine dining and local ingredients. Sample everything from falafel to Jamaican specialties—and some surprisingly good Tex-Mex burritos. But even modern-day Berlin does classic German fare very well so get in on all the currywurst you can handle. If you just have time to eat around one neighborhood, head straight to Prenzlauer Berg for top-notch brunch spots and some of the city’s best people watching.

Suddenly, grub that is both Chinese and Jamaican is a thing. Chef Craig Wong, third generation Chinese-Jamaican himself, has taken over a Dundas West space and done quite the number on the local dining scene, turning out a cuisine of his own that manages to encapsulate all that is Toronto. Pick from eats like the Jamaican patty double down — chef’s take on the famed KFC number — and the dirty fried rice with red sausage and peas. For a small group, go with the so-called Whole Shebang and test out Wong’s take on jerk chicken. Dinner can be reserved, but if you’s aiming for brunch, be there when the place opens and tuck into the Hong Kong-style waffles and the luscious maple butter French toast.

Although you can find most cuisines in Berlin now, Jamaican food is nowhere near as ubiquitous as it is in, say, London, and it’s mostly relegated to shacks or pop-up stalls at festivals. Enter RosaCaleta, a full-service restaurant run by two transplants from Jamaica via New York who have created a perfect balance of traditional Jamaican dishes playfully reinvented for a European palate. White walls and a wood floor set the stage for a menu that includes oven-roasted pork fillet, fiery jerk guava chicken served with fluffy dumplings, and vegetarian dishes such as vegetable stews and lentil salads mixed with mango and ginger. The restaurant also has a superlative rum collection, used for an inspired cocktail list that is as fruit-filled as it is potent.

A delightful peach-colored villa set directly on Treasure Beach, this Jamaican-owned guesthouse is a gem, and feels more like a vacation home than a hotel. There are six spacious guest rooms and two larger suites, each with their own patios or balcony with a glorious sea view. The interior is intricately decorated with carefully chosen African-themed paintings and sculptures, and the owner—who returned after many years in the US—takes pride in providing true Jamaican hospitality. There’s a bar and no restaurant on site, but that doesn’t prevent the large kitchen and staff cook from taking your daily orders for breakfast and dinner, dishing out excellent local specialties that are served poolside with the sea in front of you. It’s one of my favorite places to stay and get away from it all.

Hammond’s Bakery sells Jamaica‘s most popular and affordable snack: the patty. And not just any patty but Tastee patties, a brand many Jamaicans claim to be the best. Lines of customers stroll in and out of this bakery for the crusty, thin pastry filled with spiced beef, chicken, cheese, or vegetables. The bakery also sells coco bread and juices. Located in Negril Square, between the beach side and the cliffs, it’s the ideal pitstop while exploring Negril on foot.

Along the southern coast, Treasure Beach is about as peaceful as Jamaican beaches get. A few well-known guesthouses and resorts are located in this fishing community, but you’ll probably see more locals than tourists around, especially when compared with the rest of the island. The black-sand beaches, teeming with shorebirds, are attractive, and happily there’s not much to do but catch the breeze, mingle with local families, and enjoy fresh seafood.