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A Telluride favorite since 1978, Last Dollar Saloon is renowned for two things: $5 margaritas (made with agave tequila and served in a pint glass) and an eclectic selection of beers from all over the world (more than 60 at last count). Start your evening on the right note at the bar’s popular happy hour, which goes from 3 to 5 p.m. and includes four Telluride Brewing Company beers for just $4 each.

If you think a store that revolves around lovely wall hooks is made for a larger city, you’d be wrong. Hook is full of precisely the sweet, homey ephemera that gives Telluride its small-town charm. Much of the merchandise here will fit in your carry-on, from a bottle opener shaped like a growling bear, to sea-salt-and-sage candles and, of course, hooks in every shape and size—the ones decorated with vintage-looking ski signs make for particularly great souvenirs.

Colorado has more “fourteeners”—mountain peaks higher than 14,000 feet—than any other state (53, compared to No. 2, Alaska, with 29). The northernmost of those Rocky Mountains giants is also one of the most popular, mostly since it’s so easy to see from the lowlands. A prominent diamond shape sits below the summit and is a favorite rock-climbing wall. But those keen to hike it usually start in the dark hours of the early morning to tackle the standard 8.4-mile Keyhole route. The trail starts at 9,400 feet and gains more than 5,000 feet. Around 11,000 feet, the trees thin out and the view down the slope appears, as does a nice look at the distinctive diamond face. The trail continues around a subpeak called Mount Lady Washington, and into the boulder field that leads up to the namesake Keyhole—the gateway to the last push to the summit.

There’s a reason this is one of the most iconic spots along the Grand Canyon. Located on the Havasupai Indian Reservation and hidden deep within a 20-mile round-trip hike, Havasu Falls’ sparkling turquoise waters are a popular destination for seasoned hikers who come for the amazing views, rock climbing, and swimming. The hike to the falls and back is best enjoyed with a preplanned route and plenty of stops for rest, food, and water. Because tribe members of the Havasupai, which means “people of the blue-green waters,” maintain the trails and work to keep their land as unspoiled and pristine as possible, reservations for campsites are limited and day hikes and drones are not allowed.

The Hotel Telluride is close to town and the slopes but just removed enough from the action to feel like a tranquil mountain getaway. Here, the warm lobby welcomes guests with a large fireplace, comfy couches, and board games, as well as a dedicated check-in area for pets, who are allowed for a small fee and treated to house-made biscuits. Rooms have kitchenettes, private balconies, and humidifiers to combat the dry mountain air, while suites feature separate living and dining areas. It’s been said that The Hotel Telluride also boasts the most comfortable bed in town, triple-sheeted with custom-made linens.

The small, on-site restaurant, West End Bistro, serves a hot breakfast and simple dinner items like kale-and-quinoa salad and Colorado beef burgers—plus freshly baked chocolate chip cookies for an après-ski treat. Guests also have access to a sun deck with hot tubs and outdoor saunas as well as free cruiser bikes and shuttle service to the gondola and downtown Telluride. If desired, the hotel can even arrange for in-room massages or guided day trips to forage for wild mushrooms.

If there are ghosts haunting the Historic Bar—which was rebuilt in 1895 after a fire decimated the original building—we don’t blame them for wanting to stay for eternity. Tucked within the New Sheridan Hotel, the tin-ceilinged space is what Rocky Mountain dreams are made of, from the carved mahogany bar to the affordable prices. Don’t miss the leaded glass panels and brass chandeliers, both of which are original to the 1895 space.

Opened in 2018, The Tunnel is a speakeasy for the modern era. You enter the 12-seat restaurant through a trap door—after supplying a password, natch—but that’s where the old-timey-ness stops. Once settled in the quaint, hidden dining room, guests enjoy an inventive, five-course tasting menu, paired with cocktails, wine, and non-alcoholic beverages. Make a reservation for one of two nightly seatings, and then check Facebook or The Daily Planet classifieds for the weekly password.

With a name like The Butcher & The Baker, this locally owned favorite reads like a Disney movie storefront—and it should. Everything inside is pure magic, especially for the food-obsessed. Stop by to dine on local cheddar cheese curds and carrot cake with a buttermilk glaze, or pick up some picnic accoutrements, like house-roasted meats and handmade sausages. The almond croissants are so blissful, they rarely make it out the door.

You might not expect a restaurant in a teensy town to have taken top prize in Parma, Italy’s Pizza World Championship, but that’s part of Brown Dog’s understated charm. The pizza here is unexpectedly delicious—especially the award-winning Pesto pie, with house-made pesto, fresh mozzarella and feta, and a dotting of cherry tomatoes. Bonus: Brown Dog serves Detroit-style, Chicago deep-dish, and classic American pies, so you can pick your pizza poison.

Before you even leave for Telluride, the staff at Madeline Hotel & Residences can help you arrange itineraries, transfers, and equipment rentals or book activities like snowmobile tours and alpine hikes. Once you arrive, however, you might be content to never leave the property. Guests can get acclimated with an altitude oxygen treatment at the spa, browse the 80 original paintings chosen by the in-house art curator, or find their Zen during a yoga class at the fitness center. There’s also an outdoor heated pool, a kids’ club with games and movies, and the Black Iron Kitchen and Bar, which serves local comfort food like Colorado bison chili and warm Camembert with honey and figs. Outdoor fire tables offer the perfect place for après-ski cocktails but the Madeline’s pièce de résistance is its Sky Terrace—a 9,500-square-foot outdoor lounge with fire pits and two hot tubs. Should you actually tear yourself away from the hotel, you can take the nearby gondola to Telluride’s nightlife and shopping, or use the slope-side valet to get on the mountain quicky and easily.

The Madeline is surrounded on three sides by the San Juan mountains, so many of the guest rooms offer stunning views. They also feature contemporary but comfortable furnishings, plus access to a “bath barista,” who will draw you a customized soak in your spacious tub. Suites have heated bathroom floors and a separate living area with a kitchenette and gas fireplace, while residences include full kitchens, laundry facilities, and balconies.

Even in a town where locals pride themselves on being earthy and fuss-free, you can still hit the salon and emerge camera-ready thanks to PURE Beauty & Wellness Spa, owned by British expat Joanna Lyons. This is the place to get faux mink or silk eyelash extensions, enjoy a massage in a new Polish salt cave, or even try a colonic with a certified colon hydrotherapist. If you’re still feeling chilled from a day on the slopes, hit the infrared sauna, inspired by age-old Scandinavian tradition but more vital than ever in today’s toxin-filled world.

Nuzzled up against the Arizona border about 100 miles west of Four Corners are some 30 square miles of the most iconic scenery in the American West. Monument Valley is one of those places that you’ll recognize as soon as you see it, even if you’ve never been there before, as dozens of movies, TV shows, and even video games have used the area as a setting. It’s made up of mesas both small and large reaching up from the valley floor, some rising as high as 1,000 feet into the sky. Part of the Navajo Reservation, the area charges a $20-per-vehicle entrance fee to drive the dirt-road loop. Once in, however, you can also enjoy a number of hikes, or hire a guide for a horseback tour.

If you’re feeling a bit short of breath, you’re not imagining things: the elevation of this restaurant, is more or less on par with Denver at around a mile high. Special not only because of its altitude, this restaurant is also unique because of its location in a volcano (don’t worry; it won’t erupt). Ceviche and grilled meats are the specialties of the house, which diners enjoy while watching hummingbirds flutter about in the air.

I’m not sure at what age humans develop the skill to stand still and appreciate scenery, but based on a scientific survey of kids who live in my house, it’s not age seven. (On a trip to the Canadian Rockies, as my wife and I snapped photos of the relentlessly picturesque mountains, my son, Luke, investigated how quickly he could break his toy helicopter.) Luke expects Mother Nature to be his playmate. At Bandelier National Monument, about an hour’s drive from Santa Fe, New Mexico, she is. The visitor center offers kids a booklet of activities that, when completed, earn them a Junior Ranger patch. (You could call it a bribe. We prefer the term incentive.) The scavenger hunt sent us off on the Main Loop Trail in search of birds, trees, and bugs, as well as the feature that sets Bandelier apart and makes it perfect for kids: cave dwellings. Ladders of salvaged wood lead to rooms that the Pueblo people carved out of the cliffs here over 800 years ago. “I don’t want to go up, Daddy,” Luke said. “It’s too steep.” “You’ve got this, buddy,” I said. “Just take it slow.” There were no lines of impatient parents pushing their children to race up the ladder. (We saw no more than 20 people on the trail.) Luke could climb the rungs at his own pace. He paused in triumph at the top, then set off to wander the caves. While Mom and Dad squatted—“Watch out for your bald head, Daddy”—Luke could explore without even hunching. After about 45 minutes, we were walking back toward the visitor center. We crossed a nearly dry creek by hopping hand in hand from one downed log to another and were back in time for lunch, before hunger, fatigue, or boredom could set in. It was a parent’s—and child’s—dream hike. This appeared in the August/September 2014 issue.

If you’re coming to Telluride to be part of the action, the New Sheridan might be for you. The town’s social hub for more than a century, the historic hotel features two dozen rooms and suites, done up in elegant but updated Victorian style. Interior rooms are the smallest but quietest, while third-floor accommodations offer the best views of Ballard Mountain. The Ballard Suite includes a separate living room and can be connected to two other guest rooms for a family or large group.

New Sheridan guests enjoy free access to a 24-hour gym just a few blocks away, as well as ski lockers and boot heaters in the downstairs ski room, and discounted food and drinks at the on-site restaurants and bars. Virtually the same since 1895, Historic Bar is a local favorite, with regular drink specials, live music, and foosball and pool tables. On a fine summer day, however, The Roof is the place to be. There’s also Chop House Restaurant for prime aged beef and fine wine, and Parlor for breakfast and light meals. The New Sheridan even serves as a gallery and atelier for its artist-in-residence, Roger Mason, a painter who can often be found outside the hotel, working on another colorful Main Street landscape.