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Passionate Mexico City foodies are rediscovering and reviving Mexico’s rural culinary delights.

Through the end of June, the Museo di Sant’Agostino hosts a fascinating exhibit on the Machines of Leonardo DaVinci - including his bicycle, the air screw, and a massive interpretation of one of his earliest gliders. Housing in a converted monastery, the building itself is also a lovely space to visit the 16th and 17th century paintings and sculptures on permanent display.

Seminal American artist Georgia O’Keeffe drew inspiration from the lunar landscapes of New Mexico. Follow in her footsteps at some of her favorite painting spots—The White Place, The Black Place (part of Bisti Badlands), and the home of the “Lawrence tree”—or splurge on a 10-day art retreat at her remote studio getaway, Ghost Ranch. View her most famous works and her letters and journals at the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum in Santa Fe, then stop by her adobe studio to see her paints, easel, and impeccable mid-century furniture. Grab a Georgia O’Keeffe biography at Bode’s, her favorite general store in the center of Abiquiu, then round off your art odyssey with “The O’Keeffe Table” at Eloisa: a five-course tasting menu that pays tribute to the foods O’Keeffe cooked at home. —By Edmund Vallance

North of Santa Teresa, in Playa Hermosa, you’ll find sushi master Koji Hyodo carving yellowfin tuna, red snapper, and sea bass at his tinkling, tin-roofed restaurant, Koji’s. His signature Koji Roll wraps spicy tuna around fresh shrimp paste and avocado. Then the entire roll is drizzled with a secret sauce and dipped in crunchy tempura bits. The grilled octopus is lightly fired, then sprinkled with sea salt; his lobster sashimi, sliced so thin you can almost see through it, starts with a crunch and finishes sweet.

When I hear the word lagoon, I don´t envision it being a place I´m going to want to swim. Laguna de Apoyo, located between the cities of Masaya and Granada, completely changed my mind. This warm, fresh water lagoon (actually the size of a lake) with a stunning view of the Mombacho Volcano, is the perfect place to spend a hot day in Nicaragua. You can access the water either from the public beach or through a hotel like Posada Ecologica la Abuela. If you access it through a hotel you’ll either have to pay $6 or spend about $8 at the restaurant. It’s an easy trip from either Managua or Granada, and you can hang by the Apoyo during the day and make an afternoon trip to the Artisan Market in Masaya.

The warm, handsome dining room at Terra is situated high enough for sweeping Santa Fe sunsets and glorious mountain silhouettes. Helmed by chef Andrew Cooper, the food is contemporary American and Southwestern, from tortilla soup to pan-seared scallops to a zesty green chili braised short rib. After your meal, visit the mod, circular outdoor fire pit and wind down with a nightcap. The cool inside bar has a great wall of old black-and-white photos, including one with visiting actor and cowboy Robert Redford.

The Franciscan Basilica di Santa Croce, with its striped green-and-white marble facade, dates from about 1294. Inside are the tombs of many celebrated early Florentines, including Dante, Michelangelo and Machiavelli. Among the many art treasures are radiant frescoes by Giotto and his pupil Taddeo Gaddi, which decorate the Bardi and Peruzzi chapels, and the newly restored Cappella dei Pazzi, a Renaissance architectural masterpiece designed by Brunelleschi.

With its world famous pier, bustling beaches, and chill, but lively nightlife scene that draw eight million visitors annually, Santa Monica can feel a bit crowded in the summer high season. But not at Oceana Santa Monica. Set within the posh neighborhood of Wilshire Montana, the hotel is located across the street from Palisades Park, a peaceful municipal outdoor area dotted with fig and palm trees that runs alongside the Pacific Ocean. Just stepping into the lobby feels like a world away from the hustle and bustle of the Santa Monica pier.


Formerly known as the Oceana Beach Club Hotel, the property debuted in 2019 after it was purchased by Hilton’s upscale LXR brand and underwent a $25 million transformation. The 70 apartment-style guest rooms—most of which feature ocean views—are situated around a heart-shaped pool. Each suite has a separate living room and bedroom, Loro Piana bedding, large bathrooms, and walk-in closets. For even more space, there are two-bedroom suites with ensuite kitchens and balconies.The interior design is by Anna Busta of Busta Studio; expect moody blue couches and gold and wood design accents throughou the space that echo the Pacific Ocean.



Though Santa Monica’s dynamic culinary scene sets a high bar, Oceana Santa Monica’s Sandpiper stands up. Seafood-forward menu items include chilled prawns served with summer melons, pan roasted sheepshead fish plated with littleneck clams, and chopped salads with asparagus, broccolini, and zucchini garnished with watermelon radish, corn, and red onions. Pair the meal with a house cocktail like the Stan Laurel (named after the actor of Laurel and Hardy fame who once called the Oceana home), composed of Empress gin, cointreau, lavender syrup, and lemon juice.

This brilliant, partially covered amphitheater offers views not only of the stage but of the stunning Sangre de Cristo and Jemez mountain ranges in the distance. The world-renowned opera company presents five works in repertory each summer. Book well in advance, and don’t miss the elegant tailgating in the parking lot (some participants go as far as white table linens and sparkling wine) before the performance. A picnic can be ordered (at least 48 hours in advance) for pick-up two hours before performances, or you can cobble together your own basket of goodies from local restaurants. Tablecloths not included.

Inside the Mercado 20 de Noviembre you’ll find many food stalls to choose from. The Comedor Maria Teresa (Local #38) is a good bet. They have excellent mole, which you can enjoy with chicken and rice, or in enchiladas, as pictured above. A full Oaxacan breakfast starts with a chocolate de leche and pan de yema. The chocolate is served in a bowl to make it more convenient for dunking your bread. Later in the day choose a tlayuda or caldo de pollo. You really can’t go wrong!

The best of Nicaragua is on the beautiful Emerald Coast. Mukul Resort offers a barefoot luxury experience with stunning suites, exquisite design, and local hospitality. Where else can you surf a great break in front of a 5 star hotel? The Golf and spa are equally as unique.

XBB, as locals call it, occupies a remodeled and brightly furnished former gas station in the Elliotborough neighborhood. Catering to its surfer clientele with Nicaraguan beer, the spot also offers a constantly changing menu of authentic Asian fare. Order the Vietnamese-style shrimp toast, a purée of local shrimp, fish sauce, garlic, ginger, lime leaf, and chilies spread on baguette slices, then pan-fried—crispy and satisfying.

Perched on a hill between the busy Zona Sul and hip Santa Teresa neighborhoods, Casa Marques is an all-suites boutique hotel with unparalleled views of Rio. The French-Brazilian couple behind the property blended minimalist modern design with contemporary Brazilian art, creating a space that’s as sleek and subtle as a gallery. Stark white, rooms are decorated with unique local art and artisan-made rugs. Standard suites feature pingo de riga (floor-to-ceiling), wood-framed windows, while master suites include a balcony and expanded bathroom with soaking tub. On the roof of the colonial mansion, there’s an infinity pool and bar overlooking Guanabara Bay, Sugarloaf Mountain, and Christ the Redeemer. Rates include breakfast on the terrace or in the warm, stylish kitchen lounge, complete with traditional tapioca and Brazilian iced tea. Note that Casa Marques’ stellar scenery means it’s challenging to access—plan on taking taxis whenever you can tear yourself away from the hotel vistas.

If you’re in Granada, stop in for a meal or drink at Café Espressonista. Housed in a building from 1860, the café is owned by New York transplants Andres and Zoltan, who have created a fun, funky space with a true artisanal spirit. Chef Zoltan’s baked goods and ice creams are made in-house and the drink menu includes Espressonista’s own small-batch brewed beer. Thanks to relationships with the best coffee producers in Nicaragua, Espressonista’s coffee drinks are the best in Nicaragua. All ingredients are sourced from local markets or farmers, and the same attention to detail can be found in the design of the space and the plating of the meals. In addition, you can buy exquisite men’s shirts that Andres designs and has made by hand of the finest cotton. Photo by Marianna Jamadi.

When you’re feeling rejuvenated and ready to venture out of Aqua’s quiet beachside retreat, the resort can arrange for you to take a day trip to Granada on the shores of Lake Nicaragua, about an hour and a half drive from the resort. Rich in colonial architecture and colorful buildings, Granada is arguably the most photogenic city in Nicaragua and a popular tourist destination. You can stop at Mombacho Volcano on your way there for zip-lining and a tour of a coffee farm, or at the lake for a boat tour of the isletas, 365 tiny islands that were originally rocks spewed out of Mombacho in an eruption thousands of years ago. Visit the Granada Cathedral and the city’s museums, then wander the narrow streets to admire the old haciendas that have been turned into boutique hotels and artisan shops. Shop for handcrafted leather goods, carved wooden furniture, and hand-woven hammocks that can be easily folded up for the trip home. Photo by Marianna Jamadi.