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My wife and I just returned from our annual trip to Europe to visit Christmas Markets. Our first stop was Cologne, Germany. In researching Cologne several months ago I read about the Hohenzollern Railway Bridge, which crosses the Rhine into central Cologne. The bridge has gained a new romantic image, since couples began placing locks on the fence separating the railroad and the pedestrian walkway over the Rhine. I’ve seen several bridges around the world where this is done, including Spain, Estonia, Paris, and even the Great Wall of China, but nowhere in the volume of the Hohenzollernbrucke. Since our stay in Cologne was on our 45th Wedding Anniversary, I thought I would surprise my wife with this addition to our itinerary. She was both surprised and eager to take part in the tradition. So, we found a lockshop, picked out a lock and had it engraved with our names and “45 Years”. We walked to the bridge, and were absoluted stunned at the number of locks of every sort, size and shape. The number has to be in the tens of thousands. A definite testament to love. We even had a difficult time finding a recognizable place for the lock. Finally, we completed the tradition by locking it, and tossing one of the two keys into the Rhine. If you are going to Cologne, don’t miss seeing this.

With the precipitous rise of gourmet street food and market-fresh neo-bistrots, it’s not surprising that Boris Leclercq’s eponymous steak joint ‘Chez Boris’ opened near the Champs-Elysées last year with little fanfare. The conceit of this steakhouse, however, deserves attention particularly for its unique, revivalist approach to steak-frites dining. Boris and his wife Leticia raise grass-fed Aubrac cows on their own farm in the Hérault region, follow a 21-day maturation process in a cold chamber within their own cutting plant (where they employ 2 dedicated butchers), and serve both traditionally superior cuts (filet, sirloin, etc.) and those most often neglected or typically reserved for tartares or hamburgers (flank or spider), accentuating their flavor as a result of their maturation technique and grilling process. What’s more, they won’t begin preparing cuts from another cow until those from the previous one have been entirely used and served. Each steak is served with a simple green salad and crispy fries cooked in beef fat, not in oil. This ‘home made’ from farm to plate approach is, effectively, all in an effort to control the provenance of the meat they serve and ensure quality at all times - crucial as the horse-meat controversy and trend in French restaurants toward using industrial ingredients had the public hyper-aware and concerned about what they’re consuming. Delicious and sustainable - more than enough reason to book lunch or dinner at Chez Boris.

With well over a hundred beer gardens to choose from in Munich, locals have quite the choice, but the Paulaner am Nockherberg is a local favorite. Perhaps the multi-award winning naturally cloudy beer known as “Nockherberger“ has something to do with it. As with all beer gardens it’s opening hours are weather dependent.

Kultfabrik claims to be Europe’s largest party zone and it just may well be! Home to over 20 clubs and bars ranging from a cozy Irish pub to discos to table dancing to karokee, there’s something for every nightlife lover who wants to see the wilder side of Munich.

Formerly considered East Berlin, Karl Marx Allee is one of the best places to get a glimpse of socialist history, architecture, and local life in Berlin from the past. The famous street is 89 meters wide and 2 km long and still houses some of the “wedding cake” architecture that East Germany was known for. You don’t need a guide. Save your money and simply check out the numerous (30+) plaques along the way (on both sides of the street) which provide you with history, stories, and old photos of the famous street. I suggest that you start at the Alexanderplatz U-Bahn station and walk along the north side of the street, then return along the south side—to get the full scope of the ultra-wide street.

With a menu based on fresh ingredients, a great staff, and a very family-friendly attitude (and even a hip edge), Preysinggarten is a place to unwind, and bring the kids! A beautiful interior, and even an outdoor play area (spielplatz) for children—it’s a very cool place in a hip neighborhood.

Munich’s most popular and busiest shopping place is Kaufingerstrasse, centrally located between Marienplatz and Karlsplatz. The pedestrian-only street is lined with all the major brand names and chain stores. Also check out some of the passageways—you’ll find stores hidden away from the crowds that tend to be more of the speciality types, resulting in some interesting finds.

Located just across the street from the main library for Humboldt University, this hipster cafe is a great place for a cup of coffee or a light lunch. With free Wi-Fi (though no power outlets) it’s a good place to do a bit of work or read a book.


You won’t find many tourists in here, despite being just blocks away from the always tourist Friedrichstrasse. It’s a perfect little escape. And the coffee is excellent too!

A hip hangout for conscientious locals, The Potting Shed provides a stylish setting for their sustainable dining and drinking. Simple, organic, local, fair trade and fresh. Does it get any better than this? Throw in live music on Thursday nights and it’s easily the best spot—for taste, ambiance and well-being—in town!

The world’s largest chocolate shop also includes two restaurants and is a dream come true for travelers with a sweet tooth. At the Chocolate Café, you can fill up on hot chocolate, tortes and chocolate treats. The Chocolate Restaurant specializes in incorporating chocolate, as well as cacao, into savory dishes. You’ll want to pick up some gifts for friends at home—or just snacks for later in the day—at the shop.

Gal Ben Moshe’s brand new venture picks up where his former restaurant, the celebrated Glass, left off. The concept is still European-meets-Levantine fine dining, but the game has been raised yet further with a more seductive—dark-toned walls, leather chairs, and low-key lighting—which allows space for the food to shine. As before, guests can choose from six, seven, or eight courses, including a wine-matching option for each; expect a series of immaculately presented taste explosions that include foie gras frozen in nitrous oxide, dukkah pulpo foul with chickpeas, and lamb served with eggplant and sour cherries. We recommend you save room for dessert.

I dare you to visit Planet Modular and not leave with a stack of new notebooks, Japanese masking tape, or sparkly envelopes. It’s unequivocally a supplies haven for artists and crafty DIYers, and while I don’t fall into either of those categories, I’m a sucker for colored gel pens and stationery. One loop around this shop, and you’ll understand why Berlin ranks high in creative design.

One of the most famous sights in Germany, the Cologne Cathedral (known locally as the Kölner Dom) lives up to the hype. Its Gothic exterior, and especially its soaring twin spires, can be seen from all over the city, and its immense interior—measuring a whopping 66,370 square feet—brims with religious and cultural treasures. While its first stone was laid in 1248, the cathedral wasn’t finished until 1880. Today, its highlights include the Altar of the Patron Saints of Cologne by Stefan Lochner, the carved oak choir stalls, and the stained glass windows, which range from 13th-century examples to a more recent (and striking) addition by contemporary artist Gerhard Richter. The real treasure, however, is the Shrine of the Three Kings—an impressive work of medieval gold craftsmanship that’s bigger and grander than any other in Europe. Take it all in, then climb the 533 steps to the viewing platform on the south tower for a look over the city and, on a clear day, out to the Siebengebirge. Also be sure to visit the treasury, which holds artworks made from gold, silver, bronze, and ivory, as well as holy relics and sculptures from the Middle Ages.

The Hotel Adlon Kempinski undoubtedly boasts the most distinguished location in the city—right on historic Pariser Platz, opposite the Brandenburg Gate. The original incarnation opened in 1907 with the blessing of none other than Kaiser Wilhelm II. Despite playing host to such illustrious guests as Tsar Nicholas II, Albert Einstein, and Franklin Roosevelt, the building was almost destroyed after World War II. A new hotel was eventually opened in 1997 and continues to draw celebrities, politicians, and the occasional aristocrat—in 2002, it was here that Michael Jackson notoriously dangled his nine-month-old son out the window.

Needless to say, the hotel is the last word in stately—if somewhat conservative—luxury, as heralded by its glamorous, balconied lobby, which greets guests with the sounds of live piano and a trickling fountain. The sumptuous rooms come with marble bathrooms, full-size work desks, and entertainment centers; the three restaurants include the two-Michelin-starred Lorenz Adlon Esszimmer, serving classic European dishes such as braised shoulder of lamb (there’s a four-week waitlist for reservations, so plan accordingly). A luxury spa and a range of boutiques offering everything from fine wines to jewelry to porcelain are also on-site.

The former residence of Würzburg’s prince-bishops, this UNESCO World Heritage site is one of the most important Baroque palaces in Europe. It was—remarkably, given its scale and level of detail both inside and out—built almost entirely within a single generation. Court architect Balthasar Neumann oversaw the construction, while leading architects from Germany and France created the fabulous ornamentation. Woodcarvers, sculptors, and artists from Italy—including Giovanni Battista Tiepolo, regarded as one of the greatest fresco painters of the 18th century—also contributed to the design.

Rebuilt after World War II, the palace now features a bevy of architectural styles, from German and Viennese Baroque to French château. Inside, the White, Imperial, and Garden halls are can’t-miss attractions, as are the grand staircase and ceiling fresco by Tiepolo and the Mirror Cabinet. Before leaving, be sure to take a walk in the court gardens, which feature fountains, charming yew trees, and a group of cherub statues by Johann Peter Wagner.