Search results for

After nine years and nearly $600 million, it’s not an exaggeration to suggest that the re-opening of the iconic Bürgenstock resort—set on 148 acres of ridgeline above Lake Lucerne—was one of the most widely anticipated of the decade. Originally opened in 1873, the family-owned resort grew into a moneyed playground, where Hollywood royalty romped (Sophia Loren lived here for many years) and wed (Audrey Hepburn married Mel Ferrer in a chapel on the property). It then endured several years of decline, after which Qatar state fund bought the property, closed it, and began planning a stunning transformation. Bürgenstock now includes four hotels, 12 restaurants and bars, 67 residences, and a 107,000-square-foot spa featuring three pools (including a heated outdoor infinity pool overlooking the lake), hammans, saunas, and private treatment rooms. Both the 102-room Bürgenstock Hotel and the 160-room Waldhotel—the latter a state-of-the-art medical spa and hotel—are brand-new, five-star additions. The historic Taverne 1879 and Palace Hotel, built in 1904, have also undergone considerable refurbishment. The real star, however, is the dramatic view, optimized from every angle—including at the Spices Kitchen and Terrace, which cantilevers out from the Palace Hotel as if it’s floating above the lake. Speaking of the lake, even getting to Bürgenstock is like something out of a James Bond film, quite fitting since the crew of Goldfinger spent a month here during filming. After crossing the lake by boat, you take a funicular up the face of the mountain and into the Bürgenstock Hotel, landing on the terrace with its arresting views.

Pescheria Mattiucci is a fish store by day that transforms itself into a small standing-room-only restaurant a few nights of the week. Mattiucci is an old family operation, but this place is the brainchild of a young son, Luigi Mattiucci. Luigi speaks to me from behind the counter as he preps plates of fish. “There’s a tradition of eating raw fish in southern Italy,” he says. “But it wasn’t a restaurant thing. It was something fishermen did because they couldn’t store all the fish they’d caught.”

He passes me a plate of raw red shrimp with the heads still on, slices of Sicilian tuna, and some amberjack, all of it topped with only a spray of lemon juice and some thick grains of sea salt.

Mattiucci has expanded his family business, which began as an outdoor fish stall in the Quartieri Spagnoli. (Everything artisanal in Naples seems to originate from there, probably because only a poor neighborhood like that could supply the child labor that was the foundation of old-school artisanal culture.) Mattiucci expanded from that original location into this store in posh Chiaia and also bought fishing boats in Sicily so they could eliminate the middleman. He serves me a dish of baby calamari stuffed with friarelli, a distinctively Neapolitan bitter green. Then he offers me a sample of a new dish: the same seafood stuffed with sprigs of spring vegetables, just now in season. Mattiucci, I realize, is someone who’s taking an artisanal approach to the very traditional, and non-artisanal trade of fishmongering. He’s already expanded his restaurant to London and Milan, but Naples is still where he cooks himself. “The fish is freshest here,” he says.

No matter how many postcards you’ve seen of Rome’s iconic Colosseum, you just don’t get it until you pass beneath its crumbling arches. Built by Emperor Vespasian in 72 C.E., the huge amphitheater held 50,000 spectators and marked its opening with 100 days of brutal spectacles like gladiator combat and animal fights. The Colosseum was in use for four centuries, and now you can tour the ruins. Walk through the Hypogeum, an intricate series of tunnels and elevators originally used to transport animals, slaves, and gladiators, to the performance above, or take a moonlit tour to have one of the world’s most storied structures all to yourself.

While in the Lagos and western Algarve, I searched for lesser known beaches. With so many miles of coastline, I knew there had to be more beaches and less crowded ones at that. So my husband and I set out for several days to find these gems. We stopped at so many great beaches (we were usually the only Americans there) that the British and Germans have long known about. Each beach had a good restaurant with very fresh seafood. There were different activities available such as the usual sunbathing under the warm sun, surfing, parasailing, fishing,and horseback riding.

This beach at Burgau was a clean, beautiful, little town beach. There were several restaurants. This was a rewarding search for a different, lively beach. A natural and undeveloped area. We will return. Possibly we will rent for a week-end and stay in a small condo. If you go to the Algarve, bring a good current Michelin map of Portugal and get a map of the Algarve at your hotel desk. These will be easy to follow to the many western Algarve beaches. If renting a car, set this up with your travel agent in the states when planning your trip. It is cheaper, and the car will be delivered to you wherever you need it. Have a great time with this adventure!

Pristine, untouched and unforgettable: There’s no other way to describe this natural park just off the northeast coast of St. Croix. Walking trails crisscross the expanse through frangipani and tamarind trees and cacti to beautiful beaches. Turtle Bay, on the western side, wows with its magnificent snorkeling; the protected waters and massive coral reef are home to more than 250 kinds of fish. Admission numbers are limited each day; advance booking is required.

Why we love it: An amenity-filled property that sits near all the action

The Highlights:
- Amenities like four pools, a treetop spa, and an open-air yoga studio
- An on-site diving school and expedition boat
- The sunset views from the Bay View rooms

The Review:
Located near St. George’s University, the all-inclusive True Blue Bay Boutique Resort is also right on a marina and just a five-minute drive from the airport, putting it at the center of all the action. Though it doesn’t have its own beach, it does offer shuttles to Grand Anse, which is a mere 10 minutes away, plus there’s plenty else to do on property. There are four small but well-maintained pools; a spa that uses local ingredients like chocolate and nutmeg for its treatments; an open-air yoga studio with treetop views; and a top-notch dive school that offers quick courses as well as multi-day PADI certifications. Guests already certified to dive can take advantage of four dives per day included in their stay, while landlubbers can opt for rum and chocolate tastings, cooking classes, non-motorized watersports, and fun kids’ activities.

When hunger strikes, head to on-site restaurant Dodgy Dock, which regularly hosts theme nights like Street Food, Romantic BBQ, and Cocoa Thursdays. Should you prefer to cook for yourself, accommodations here, which range from rooms to suites to villas, include kitchenettes and outdoor seating with epic views. Villas can even sleep up to six people and feature private plunge pools for added luxury.

Why we love it: A lakeside resort made for family getaways

The Highlights:
- Spacious rooms with balconies for taking in lake views
- A full-service, on-site marina for boat rentals
- A Japanese-style spa with an infrared sauna

The Review:
Imagine you had a wealthy friend with a fabulous lakeside property, and you’ll understand what it feels like to stay at the Lodge of Four Seasons. At the waterfront resort, guests mingle around the lobby bar—which boasts circular seating, live piano music, and carefully crafted cocktails—much like they would in a fancy living room. When it’s nice outside, they hang together at the lakeside pool bar, or stroll down to the on-site marina and get out on the water. Here, it’s all about starting traditions with families and friends, whether over dinner at one of two restaurants or a round of golf on the championship course.

An Ozarks-chic vibe extends across the 358 spacious rooms and suites, which all feature flat-screen TVs, custom embroidered linens, and private furnished balconies with views of the lake or Japanese gardens. Choose from guest rooms in the Main Lodge and Seasons Bay buildings, or opt for a one- or two-bedroom condo with a kitchen in the Avila complex. Settle in, then head to Spa Shiki, where you’ll find eucalyptus-infused steam rooms, an infrared Himalayan salt stone sauna, a salt-purified whirlpool, and a relaxation room with a fireplace for relaxing post treatment.

On the Dominican Republic’s northern coast, near the tip of the Samaná Peninsula, this unpopulated Atlantic beach stretches three miles from Cape Samaná to the cliffs of Cape Cabrón. To get here, you’ll need to take a four-wheel-drive vehicle or a boat charter from the small fishing village of Las Galeras, but once you arrive, you’ll find a nearly empty stretch of sand. The west end of the beach features calm waters ideal for swimming and snorkeling, while the east end has great waves for surfing. You’ll also find spots to rent kayaks, snorkeling gear, chairs, and umbrellas, as well as a few food vendors serving rice, beans, and seafood cooked over an open-hearth fire. This is the place to go when you want to get away from the crowds.

Some may scoff at the absence of beachfront acreage, but what all-inclusive Capella Marigot Bay lacks in sand it makes up for in amenities, including a cabana-lined pool area with swim-up bar and a ferry to nearby LaBas Beach. Backed by a see-and-be-seen marina that offers some of the island’s best people-watching, the hotel features 124 luxurious rooms and suites that are studies in restraint, with dark-wood accents and four-poster beds trimmed in mosquito netting. Guests are surprised with complimentary snacks each day, from house-made plantain chips to local Piton beer, but nourishment is also in abundance at the resort’s four restaurants—think fresh-caught snapper, jerk-spiced ribs, and lionfish ceviche—and during three happy hours. Meanwhile, the celestial-inspired Auriga spa offers locally focused treatments to those less interested in the fitness center and weekly activities such as body-scrub-making workshops and zip-line tours.

With its 26 suites, private beach, and two waterfront bars, Calabash Cove offers a boutique hotel alternative to the typical all-inclusive experience. Set a stone’s throw from the turquoise waves of Bonaire Bay, the sprawling, Balinese-inspired Water’s Edge cottages are the ones to book thanks to private plunge pools, outdoor rain showers, and patio hammocks positioned to highlight superb sunsets. The resort’s remote location ensures tranquility, as does the spa, which offers in-room treatments using ingredients sourced from St. Lucia’s floral and culinary bounty. That abundance is also on display in the Windsong restaurant, where local dishes get an elegant twist (octopus tempura, smoked coconut crème brûlée) in a terrace dining room with the ultimate ocean backdrop. Follow your meal with a brief walk down Calabash Cove’s small boardwalk and stop to spot shooting stars in the dark skies above.

The largest and most storied of the Sydney Harbour islands, Cockatoo was once an Aboriginal fishing ground, a naval shipyard, a girls’ reform school, and a gruesome prison. Today, it offers fascinating walking tours, a casual café, and a number of events such as the Biennale of Sydney. When most visitors line up in the evening to catch the ferry home, those staying on the island are just setting off on a leisurely sunset stroll. They can watch the city light up from what feels like another world and then retreat to their campsite, canvas “glamping” tent, heritage home, or modern apartment until they wake up to birds and boats the next morning.

Known as the “Jewel in the Crown” of the Southern Grenadines, Tobago Cays Marine Park comprises five picture-perfect, uninhabited islands surrounded by a clear lagoon. Here, you’ll find sea turtle nesting sites and feeding areas, small systems of mangroves, and the most well-developed coral reef complexes in St. Vincent. Swim with the resident turtles, snorkel around the almost 2.5-mile-long Horseshoe Reef, or simply relax on a magnificent white-sand beach—each island has at least one.

Oporto is the second largest city in Portugal and one of the oldest European cities dating back to the 4th c. “Oporto " means the port. Oporto is famous for among other things Port wine. Port wine is fortified wine. These wines are world renowned. They are produced in the Douro Valley in Northern Portugal. At harvest time, the grapes are picked from the vines on the steep steps of the Douro Valley and taken to the various cellars in Vila Nova de Gaia. Until the late 1960’s the wines were carried down the river in flat bottomed boats called barcos rebelos. In the 1700’s, there were several hundred of these vessels carrying the Port. In the 1930’s there were about 300 plying the river. Today Port is sent by rail and road. You can still see the barcos with their sails with barrels on board in the river on the shores of Vila Nova de Gaia. They are there to show the history of the vessels and Port wine. You can sign up for tours of the various wine cellars. There are many such as Taylor, Graham, Croft, and Ramos Pinto. The tours are fun and offer different samples of Port and sometimes biscuits and chocolate. Your hotel desk clerk will help you or check out an information center. I crossed the D.Luis I Bridge on foot and descended to Vila Nova de Gaia. I checked out the history of Port wine. Great experience! There are several restaurants that serve traditional Portuguese food. After dinner enjoy an expresso and a glass or two of Port.

One of the most popular anchorages in the BVI, Cane Garden Bay is home to a lively boating community. It makes a great day trip, whether you arrive by land or by sea. In this scenic cove, calm blue water laps a gentle arc of blinding white sand. Open-air beach bars offer lounge chairs and rum drinks; a few shops sell souvenirs, along with provisions for the sailors coming in off their boats to stock up.

Less than an hour from Guadalajara, Lake Chapala—Mexico’s largest lake—offers a relaxing respite from the big city. Visitors can enjoy drinks or a meal at one of the many restaurants on the pier, watch the sunset from a sandy beach, or rent a boat to the Island of Scorpions for a different view. There are plenty of boutique hotels around the lake should you be interested in an overnight stay.

To get to Lake Chapala, catch a direct bus—they leave every 30 minutes from Guadalajara’s Old Bus Central. The air-conditioned ride through the mountains of Jalisco takes somewhere between 45 minutes and an hour, depending on traffic, and costs approximately US$5 for a round-trip ticket. Once you arrive at the Chapala bus station, the lake is about a 10-minute walk away on the main street.