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Uncorking Switzerland’s Secret

There are two ways to walk up to the Galata Tower from Karakoy Tram Station: One is to follow the pedestrian traffic and ascend an uninviting steep staircase close to the tram way; the other is to take the more picturesque Kamondo (Camondo) steps on Bankalar Caddesi. Neo-Baroque and early Art Nouveau styles were fused here in the 1870s to create this curvaceous thoroughfare up one of Istanbul’s steepest hills. Abraham Salomon Camondo, of the wealthy Sephardic Jewish Camondo family, funded the construction. He inherited the banking and business success of his forefathers and went on to become the prime banker for the Ottoman Empire in the district of Galata where the stairs are located.

You can see the black and gold spiral steeple of the Church of our Saviour, or Vor Frelsers Kirke, all over Copenhagen. It’s not until you are standing beneath it you realize that golden spiral is actually a staircase—on the outside. If you are among the brave, you can climb the stairs all the way to the top of the steeple, for a view over the lively Christianshavn neighbourhood of Copenhagen. If (like me) you are afraid of heights, you can admire the church from below and muster your courage... for next time.

An aspiring bluegrass fiddler from London discovers much more than music on a trip to North Carolina.

How do you make sense of diverse, dizzying São Paolo? Talk to the people who make the sushi, spray the graffiti, and build the giant watermelons.

Visiting the 17th-century Büyük Valide Han in Eminönü is my all-time favorite experience in Istanbul. It’s an Ottoman inn that accommodated traveling merchants over 350 years ago and also stored the Oriental and European wares from the wooden ships moored in the Golden Horn. The han is hidden away in the backstreets of the Spice Bazaar, though got some big-time exposure when featured in a montage in the 007 movie Skyfall. Artisans still make and repair some of Turkey’s well-known handicrafts in the timeworn workshops upstairs, but my favorite feature is the view from the roof. To experience this you need to locate the building off Çakmakçılar Yokuşu. Then go up the steep stairs and say, “Merhaba” (hello) to the craftspeople. If you’re lucky, the caretaker will agree to unlock a door that hides a secret staircase to the roof. Do give him a tip for his kindness and time because the view of the Bosporus, dividing Europe and Asia, is spectacular. A little word of warning: The roof is flat (with some domes), and there are no safety rails—so watch your step. Please respect the history of the building too and collect only memories and leave only your fondness for Istanbul to waft away in the Bosporus breeze.

Often called the Spanish Steps, Rome‘s famous scalinata (monumental staircase) is the centerpiece of Piazza di Spagna. Built in the early 1700s, the steps connect the piazza (now a busy shopping area) with the Trinità dei Monti church on the hill above. The area became a hangout for models and artists and one of Rome‘s most photographed sites. Head to the top to see the sunset, or make like Hepburn and Peck in the film Roman Holiday and stroll around the piazza.

The modern minimalism of Le Méridien Chambers boutique hotel is accented by all things art. Graffiti-covered stairwells and hallways lead to rooms, each with their own original piece of art by the likes of Brits Damien Hirst and Gary Hume. Located in the vibrant Theatre District, entertainment from live music to stand-up comedy is just outside the door. As a guest, you’ll be granted free admission to the popular Walker Art Museum one mile away. Aside from the art, there are thoughtful amenities like the rain shower and heated floors, and fresh Italian cuisine at the hotel’s Marin Restaurant & Bar.

Since few areas within the city of Venice afford high perspectives of the entire city, take the elevator (no stairs) to the top of San Marco’s Campanile in Piazza San Marco. You may have to put up with a few elbows to get a spot against the railing, but it is all worth it for the spectacular panoramic views of Venice and the lagoon. While here, contemplate the history of this spectacular bell tower and observe the view from the same spot where numerous doges have stood, as well as Galileo. It was here that he introduced his telescope to the doge!

The Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Luca has a commanding presence in the landscape overlooking Bologna. We arrived knowing that it was connected to town by a 2.5 mile portico some say can be seen from space. We dropped our bags at the hotel, grabbed some water and headed for the hills. No map, no directions. There are signs that guide you, eventually. Get a map. The streets and neighborhoods heading up to this massive, covered staircase are wonderful to get lost in, which we easily did. Finding the entrance, we began our pilgrimage to the church at the top of the stairs. There are 15 chapels celebrating the Mysteries of the Rosary, kind of like the stations of the cross for any of the Catholics in the audience. We hike/jogged up to the top, stopping along the way to enjoy the view and the artwork. The 18th century Sanctuary at the top provides spectacular views of the Emilia/Romagna countryside and of Bologna in the valley below. It was hot and sunny on our visit, but one of the locals told us it snows up on the hill during the winter. We had a quick decent, then out to happy hour where the specialty is the appertivo bar. For the cost of a glass of wine or cocktail, many of Bologna’s restaurants invite you to graze gratis at the traditional piccoli morsi trays laid out across the bar. It’s easy to make an evening out of nibbling on a variety of meats, cheeses, pastas, pizzetes and deserts at any number of stops. After a long, inspiring walk; my kind of tradition.

While everyone and their mother (and aunt and grandmother) are on the waiting list to have afternoon tea at Brown’s or Claridge’s some time next April, head to Soho for the no-longer-a-secret-but-still-unknown tea room inside the Coach & Horses pub. Once you arrive, you’ll be shown the way under the bar and up a flight of stairs where, just like Alice, you’ll find yourself in a quaint square room in which teas, biscuits, and the like—all made fresh daily—are served in mismatched vintage china. Sit back, relax, and be a part of the “secret” show. You should reserve ahead, but a day or two will do.

With a nickname like the “Cave State,” Missouri certainly isn’t short on impressive caverns. Of the more than 6,000 across the state, however, Meramac Caverns is the largest—and stays open year-round for tours. Said to have been a hideout for the outlaw Jesse James in the 1870s, the seven-level, 4.6-mile-long natural wonder was purchased by Lester Dill in 1933 and opened as a tourist attraction in 1935. Today, visitors can take guided tram tours past the cave’s complex mineral formations, stopping at a “wine room” (named for its grape-like botryoids and accessed by a long stairwell). While exploring, keep your eyes peeled for the resident tricolored bats that call Meramac home.

One of my favorite discoveries in Chicago is the Empire Ballroom inside The Palmer House. It’s just up the stairs from the hotel’s magnificent lobby and has a rich history most anyone working at the hotel will be willing to tell you more about. This room with its shiny wood floor and opulent chandeliers is where Frank Sinatra used to perform. While the ballroom itself is beautiful, it’s most interesting feature is what’s hidden behind the mirrored wall in its corner. Push on the last panel and you’ll stumble into a dressing room where famous acts - including Sinatra - used to get ready to go on stage. Several autographed pictures are still hanging on the walls.

Why we love it: An architectural landmark beautifully transformed into a five-star hotel

The Highlights:
- Elegant design touches like marble-inlaid floors and a gold-leafed stairway
- Urban hot springs for soaking even in the snow
- A rooftop lounge with views of the city and Lake Erie

The Review:
Opened in 1913 at the height of Buffalo’s boomtown years, this historic building originally served as office space. At six stories, it was considered a Chicago-style skyscraper and enjoyed pride of place as one of the city’s tallest buildings. It was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 2008 and underwent a $25 million makeover in 2017 to become the Curtiss—Buffalo’s only five-star hotel. The renovation added elegant touches like marble cornices, which are illuminated by brightly colored lights each evening, and a fountain at the main entrance, where iron taps stream into marble basins. Other extraordinary design moments include the marble-inlaid floor in the foyer, a gold-leafed stairway, and the glamorous Jazz Age mosaic by artist Christopher Guy behind the front desk. Lest it start to feel stuffy, however, the hotel also includes contemporary touches like “urban hot springs” where guests can soak outdoors no matter the season.

Set in Buffalo’s thriving Theatre District, the Curtiss has 68 rooms with premium linens, bedside control panels, and marble bathrooms with luxurious showers. Some even feature Toto toilets with heated seats, as well as steam showers and aromatherapy jetted tubs. When it’s time for drinks, high-speed elevators whisk guests to the VUE Rooftop Lounge, complete with three bars, a massive fire pit, and sweeping views of downtown Buffalo. For dinner, there’s also the standout Chez Ami restaurant, which features year-round patio seating and Western New York’s only revolving bar.