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The close-in neighborhood called Colonia Roma was first developed at the dawn of the 20th century as a high-end suburb laid out along tree-lined boulevards and plazas. Prominent families erected elaborate residences in architectural styles ranging from neoclassical to art nouveau and even neo-Moorish. A century later—despite some ups and downs—the district is at a peak as one of Mexico City’s most fashionable areas, and old mansions now serve as retail spaces or smart dining rooms that open out onto the street, day and night, in that marvelous dolce vita way. Stroll the quarter’s main drag, Álvaro Obregón, afternoons and evenings, for a complete sampling of its urban pleasures; shopaholics with an eye for edgy design won’t want to miss the whimsical boutiques that line adjacent Cerrada Colima. Deeper dives into side streets and nearby plazas turn up even more surprises when you’re ready for a walkabout.

Why we love it: A sprawling retreat offering high design and a beachfront location

The Highlights:

• Guest rooms with private plunge pools or whirlpools
• The only Thalasso therapy wellness spa in Baja
• Five separate pools, plus 4,000 square feet of beachfront

The Review
Though the Baja Peninsula has welcomed a slew of luxury properties over the past few years, it seems the 128-room Solaz is only in competition with itself. First, there are the sophisticated stone-and-wood interiors, which balance high-tech details (remote controlled lighting) and luxe amenities (outdoor showers, private plunge pools) with locally sourced decor and wall sculptures by Mexican artist César López Negrete.

Guests even have the option to add personal butler service, which can arrange everything from swimming with whale sharks to ordering a bottle of local wine from the property’s wine cellar. Outdoors, the landscaping features endemic desert plants like agave and cacti, with a hardly a palm tree in sight.

Then there’s the spa, a 10,000-square-foot refuge that features the region’s only Thalasso therapy seawater treatments and a Himalayan salt igloo. Five pools (including two sleek infinity ones that overlook the Sea of Cortez), four dining outlets (a Mexican breakfast spot, a seafood restaurant, a poolside cafe, and a coffee lounge), a beachfront fitness center, and 4,000 square feet of white-sand shoreline complete the desert dream.

Unexpected surprises abound in Amsterdam. On the city’s east side, you’ll find one denoted by a tall windmill: Brouwerij ‘t IJ (the IJ Brewery), a small brewery and pub situated in the former Funen bathhouse, next to the De Gooyer windmill. Opened in1985 by former musician Kaspar Peterson, Brouweij ‘t Ij prides itself on a large selection of unfiltered, non-pasteurized beers and seasonal offerings. All are certified organic and made on the premises. Belly up to the bar next to the big mill and order your beer from a chilled tank. Follow the scent of hops onto the large outdoor terrace, where you can enjoy your brew with an order of peanuts, boiled eggs, abbey-made cheese, salami, ossenworst from Slagerij de Wit or Skeapsrond cheese from Dikhoeve Farm. The adjacent pub serves more substantial meals, as well as drinks and snacks. In addition to beer, Brouwerij ‘t Ij’s menu includes wine and non-alcoholic beverages. Guided tours are offered on weekends.

Locals may argue over their favorite places for kathi rolls, but Nizam’s is one spot that’s always on the list. The atmosphere is nothing much to speak of—it’s an order-at-the-counter, seat-yourself kind of place—but the freshly-made stuffed rolls are sure to satisfy your lunchtime (or late-night) craving. Choose from a long list of fillings, from mutton and egg or chicken tikka to paneer cheese, mushroom, and potato. Sides like kebabs, biryani rice (vegetarian and not), and omelets are also available, and you can wash it all down with a fresh lime soda. There are multiple Nizam locations in Delhi (as well as a few other in other states), but the Connaught Place shop—not far from the famous ring of colonnaded Georgian buildings, the Janpath Market, and the name-brand retailers—is a particular landmark.

Some Americans may think of Montréal’s anglophone, francophone, and Indigenous communities when they think about the city’s diversity, but it is also remarkably international. Case in point, almost 20,000 Syrians live in Québec, and more than 90 percent of them are in Montréal—a number that will likely increase in coming years given the province’s commitment to resettling refugees from the country. Fuad Alnirabie, the chef and owner of Damas in Outremont, is a Syrian-Canadian who is introducing Montréal to his native country’s cuisine. The best strategy is to order an abundance of hot and cold mezes—hummus, baba ghanoush, octopus salad, fried dumplings—or leave the work of choosing to the kitchen and opt for the five- or six-course tasting menu.

The country-style NOMAD Heritage Library at Stewart Cellars’ downtown Yountville tasting room has the look and feel of a worldly traveler’s living room: It’s full of books. Rumor has it the titles are tomes that owner Michael Stewart loves and cherishes, and the books are available for guests to read during their time on-site. The Library hosts private and exclusive Heritage Tastings, allowing guests to sample an amazing selection of older-vintage cabernets from consulting winemaker Paul Hobbs. Elsewhere on the premises, the main Tasting Hall features vaulted ceilings, a horseshoe-shaped tasting bar, and floor-to-ceiling doors that open to a private but welcoming courtyard. Wine flights are available in this part of the facility, and they incorporate some of Stewart’s wines from Napa and Sonoma counties. In 2017, Napa’s beloved Southside Café opened a second location at Stewart, serving coffee and California cuisine with a Latin twist. Brunch at this branch of Southside is a big deal; make a reservation ahead of time to start your day with breakfast tostadas, chilaquiles, or a porchetta and potato onion cake.

Named for the overnight train that served Santa Barbara from 1910 to 1968, the Lark restaurant showcases the Central Coast’s seasonal bounty. Located in the Santa Barbara Fish Market Building, in the heart of the city’s Funk Zone, the innovative restaurant combines a farm-to-table ethos with a family-style approach. During most months, the outdoor courtyard seating is as convivial as the tables in the dining room. The menu of small plates is organized by their ingredients’ places of origin (farm, ranch, or ocean): crispy brussels sprouts include sweet medjool dates as well as spicy serrano chilies; pickled fennel and compressed Granny Smith apples accompany the grilled Kurobata pork belly; and passion-fruit vinaigrette and fried avocado enhance the flavor of Japanese hamachi collar. Larger platters are meant to be shared, and restaurant regulars often choose one or two (the Baharat spiced cauliflower and Israeli couscous is a favorite) along with several smaller plates. Pro tip: While it’s tempting to fill up on the herbed popcorn that’s delivered to your table the instant you’re seated, slow down, order a craft cocktail, and make sure you save room for the main event.

Gennaro Castiello is passionate about Cetara and about the anchovies that provide income to the town. His stylish and simple restaurant is decorated with Vietri ceramics and wood, creating a chill, beachy vibe. A plate of fried anchovies accompanied by a cold flute of naturally processed prosecco makes for the perfect summer lunch. For something more substantial, order pasta dishes such as paccheri with zucchini and shavings of tuna bottarga, or a reimagined pasta alla genovese with tuna in place of beef, which transforms a hearty dish into something light and fresh. Castiello’s colatura di alici, a fermented anchovy sauce that has ancient Roman origins, just might be the very best in town. Make sure you bring home a bottle.

Landing in heat-soaked Kuala Lumpur after being on the road for 24 hours can be disorienting. Incessant chanting (“vei vel shakti vel”), monkeys screeching, wafting incense, a glorious moon, and a million people.


Thaipusam falls on a full moon and is the celebration in remembrance of Lord Murugan (his statue pictured at the base of the steep 272 steps to the Waterfall Temple at Batu Caves - the top being the best view) who received the “vel” (sacred spear) from his mother, Shiva’s wife, to kill three demons. Killing internal demons seems to be the order of the day for devotees.


The festivities begin with a chariot bearing the statue of Lord Murugan being drawn through the streets starting from Sri Maha Mariamman Temple and then on the second day (when I arrived), the fulfilling of the vows by devotees takes place at the Batu Caves after people walk barefoot approximately 15 kilometers starting in the middle of the night from Kuala Lumpur. The chariot returns to the Temple on the third day.


The real highlight is watching devotees with huge decorated frames (“kavadi”= burden”) supported by spikes that pierce their chests and backs as penance for answered prayers. As one devotee said to me, “Life is an act of gratitude and this is the ultimate day of gratitude to our deities.” I felt a deep empathy for the intense devotion and commitment of the Tamil Hindus I witnessed. This is truly one of the world’s great festivals of purification and atonement.

For more than half a century, this two-story, largely South Indian vegetarian joint on busy Serangoon Road has pleased palates with its tasty array of dosas—black-lentil-and-rice crepes designed to be ripped into pieces and dipped into heavenly chutneys and sauces. The restaurant’s prices and decor are humble, but the flavors are rich. Choose a tubular or cone-shaped dosa, or ask for one stuffed with potato, onion, or chilies. Other smart orders include buttery naan with a bowl of vegetable curry and Indian-style spinach with cubes of paneer (cheese). The biryani saffron-rice dish is also popular and is served with vegetable curry, dal, raita (a cooling yogurt concoction), and other accompaniments.

Just as taking in some of the iconic sights—Mayan temples and rivers—is a must for visitors to Orange Walk, so is stopping for a meal at Nahil Mayab. The restaurant, the name of which translates to “House of the Maya,” is owned by a respected Orange Walk family. The garden restaurant serves a variety of typical Mestizo and Caribbean-inspired dishes in an inside dining room or outside on the patio under an umbrella. Sample the popular tacos arracheras (skirt steak), the pork salpicón (a chopped hash that’s an Orange Walk specialty), fried fish, quesadillas, or a variety of burgers, salads, steaks, and pasta. The atmosphere is casual and lively, particularly on the weekends, when many Orange Walkeños gather here to catch up.

The bars along 5th Avenue start hopping as early as sunset, but Calle 12 doesn’t pick up until well after dark. Pronounced kah-yeh doh-say, the lane is Ground Zero for Playa del Carmen’s wilder nightlife, with nightclubs and bars on both sides of the street between 10th and 1st avenues. The hottest venue depends on when you go—which night, week, or even season—but the most popular spots include Coco Bongo, La Vaquita, Coco Maya Beach Bar, and Mandala. (Note: Things don’t start till 11 p.m. at the earliest on Friday and Saturday nights.)

Da Gemma manages to meld fine dining with a relaxed atmosphere, making use of crisp white-linen tablecloths, artfully plated dishes, and a friendly, warm staff. The restaurant, one of Amalfi’s oldest outposts, has innovated without losing touch of the traditions that are fiercely held in this part of Italy. Seafood is the star of the menu, featured in appetizers, pastas, and entrées. Don’t miss the kitchen’s modern version of insalata caprese, with not just vine-fresh tomatoes but fried and liquefied ones, too. The impressive wine cellar holds a range of bottles from mostly Italian regions and vintages.

Named after its storied sister in New York, this hub of LGBTQI culture on gay-friendly Oxford Street is the only place in Sydney where you can see drag shows every night of the week. Offering everything from stand-up comedy—like the Let’s Talk About Sex show on Friday, where audience members put their “problems” in a mailbox for beloved drag queen Verushka Darling to solve live on stage—to solo numbers and choreographed productions, it’s always a good time. On Sunday, the longest-running drag variety show in Australia, Polly’s Follies, is still being performed after more than 25 years by well-known drag personality Polly Petrie. Pop in on the right night and you might just run into a celebrity like Kylie Minogue or Adam Lambert.

Perhaps “boiled beef in broth” doesn’t sound quite as alluring as its German name of Tafelspitz. Yet Tafelspitz was the preferred meal of Emperor Franz Joseph, and it remains a favorite Viennese dish. There’s one establishment, Plachutta, that has cornered the market on fine Tafelspitz; the eponymous gastronome Mario Plachutta has raised his preparation of the modest rump cut served with roasted potatoes, minced apples, and horseradish to a gourmet level. The main restaurant sits on the popular Wollzeile shopping street just a block from the Ringstrasse, but the chef has also built a mini empire of jade-toned Plachutta restaurants—including one in a lovely Biedermeier cottage and another near the Schönbrunn Palace in Hietzing.