Search results for

A Carioca version of the São Paulo classic, the Rio Astor has two straightaway advantages: It sits on a magical city corner, at the start of Ipanema, just across from the beach, and it has a wide, airy terrace. From there, visitors delight in its drink menu (one of the city’s most complete) as waiters scurry hither and yon at cocktail hour, serving draft beers, which are called chopps and which somehow taste creamier here. The Astor also features a wide-ranging menu that updates Brazilian classics with unusual ingredients and more ambitious presentations of standards like arroz com feijão. The entire mix translates to one of Rio’s winningest combo of bar-rail and white tablecloth venue.

I first acquired one of Mychal’s beautifully handcrafted leather journals in late 2006 as a gift prior to an extended trip to Brazil. It now sits in my bookshelf, filled with sketches, poems and souvenir Brazilian flyers, stickers, photos, etc, as a remembrance of a great adventure. These are journals you will want to keep forever; they will inspire you to fill their pages, carefully with the same attention to detail that there were created. Visit Mychal’s studio in East Austin and let the smell of leather lure you in; she may even share a glass of wine and engulf you in conversation about her next adventure, the latest leather shipment or the best place to Salsa dance in Austin. I now prepare for a new travel adventure, and have picked the new shade of turquoise to be the color for my next Iona journal!

Situated closer to Cambodia than Vietnam in the Gulf of Thailand, Phu Quoc has arguably the best beaches in the country. An international airport opened in 2012, raising the island’s profile and bringing in droves of visitors. Despite this, the island retains a laid-back, underdeveloped charm, and its coast is still dotted with small fishing villages with brightly painted boats. The interior of the island includes plenty of forest, while some of the land is earmarked for growing black pepper—pepper from here is famous throughout Vietnam. The best beach lies to the west of the town of Phu Quoc; it’s a 13-mile long straight stretch with golden sands, coconut palms, and clear turquoise waters. The An Thoi Islands, south of Phu Quoc but still part of its marine park, offer excellent snorkeling and diving during the dry season from December through May.

Given Ipanema’s highly fashionable status, it’s no surprise that its first luxury hotel comes courtesy of aesthetic superstar Philippe Starck, who outfitted the property—his first in Brazil—with mid-century modern furniture evoking Rio’s Bossa Nova glory days. Rooms include luxe bedding, high-pressure showers, and complimentary flip-flops from Brazilian brand Osklen, while public spaces feature Starck’s Surrealist “L’oreille Qui Voit” (“ears that see”) mirrors to maximize water views. In fact, the entire hotel takes advantage of its oceanfront location—even the meeting space has a sea-view terrace.

The Fasano family made its name a century ago with Italian restaurants so, naturally, the hotel’s Al Mare takes a Mediterranean bent, serving expertly prepared seafood under sparkling Murano chandeliers. Elsewhere in the hotel, the modest fitness center offers complimentary personal trainers to guests, while the Asian-influenced spa features a Vichy shower on the roof. The surrounding beach scene may be hot during the day, but the Fasano’s rooftop infinity pool and bar—exclusive to hotel guests—is the place to be come sunset. Grab a drink and watch the sun go down over Aropador, Ipanema, and Leblon beaches and Rio’s iconic mountains.

The Pestana Hotel Group has a knack for turning historical properties into luxe hotels; the Pousada de Lisboa is no exception. Situated on Lisbon’s grandest square, the Praça do Comércio, the 90-room property inhabits the elegant former home of the Ministry of Internal Administration. Furnishings combine clean, modern lines with ornate wall moulding and a neutral color scheme dominated by pale greens and whites. Choose one of the mezzanine rooms for views of São Jorge Castle; the high-ceilinged Suite Praça do Comércio offers sweeping vistas of the square and River Tagus from two large windows. The hotel’s RIB Beef & Wine restaurant caters to the expense account crowd, specializing in premium cuts of meat aged for 14, 28, or 60 days and served with a regional touch: Lodosa piquillo peppers. There’s also an indoor pool lined with loungers, and a spa offering a full range of treatments, including a body scrub inspired by the scents of Madeira and the Algarve.

France’s chic, budget-friendly hospitality chain has gone Brazilian with this boutique hotel in Rio’s Santa Teresa neighborhood. Rooms are on the petite side, ranging from 160 to 280 square feet, but have whimsy to spare, with graphic rugs, minimalist furniture, and cheeky mirror messages scrawled over king-sized beds. Mama Shelter properties aim to be welcoming and lively, a fact that’s especially evident in the common spaces. The on-site restaurant features communal tables, stepped seating, and a menu that encourages sharing, while the Portuguese-tiled bar brings guests together over creative cocktails. While Mama Shelter isn’t on the beach, it does offer a lovely courtyard for lounging in the sun, as well as terraces with beautiful city views. It’s also right in the middle of one of Rio’s most happening neighborhoods, putting guests within walking distance of several trendy restaurants and bars.

If you ever find yourself in Lencois, Brazil, make your way about 40 miles west for one spectacular view. Located in Chapada Diamantina National Park, Pai Inacio Hill is just off BR-242 and can easily be seen from the road. The striking white stone and the majestic appearance of this natural rock formation is compelling enough to make anyone want to stop and explore. It is a relatively easy 20 minute hike to the summit, and once you arrive you will see that it is worth every step. Standing atop Pai Inacio, with the sun and wind greeting your face, you will bear witness to the valley that unfolds below you. It appears to go on forever, and that is about how long you will want to stay and take in the awe-inspiring view.

An Art Deco landmark on Rio’s famous stretch of sand, the Belmond Copacabana Palace has set the standard for visiting celebrities and discerning guests for nearly a century. In the luxurious rooms, muted colors, original artwork, and botanical murals serve as the backdrop for views of the ocean and black-and-white boardwalk. Outdoors, guests can lounge around the almost Olympic-sized pool—much like Marilyn Monroe once did—or take advantage of the hotel’s beach service, complete with assistants to watch your belongings while you swim. Visitors also have access to the hotel spa, which uses Brazilian fruits and Amazonian ingredients in its treatments, as well as an impeccable concierge team, which can arrange exclusive sunrise visits to Christ the Redeemer before it opens to the public.

The restaurant and nightlife scene may be hotter in Ipanema these days but Belmond guests are spoilt for dining choices. Hotel Cipriani Restaurant—named for the Copacabana’s sister hotel in Venice—serves elegant Northern Italian, while Pérgula is bustling day and night thanks to caipirinha cocktails prepared tableside and a menu of Carioca favorites like grilled seafood and steaks. For an award-winning meal, there’s also Mee, which holds a Michelin star for its haute Pan-Asian dishes and extensive sake selection.

Comuna was born as an alternative cultural space and has now become a landmark in newly hot “BotaSoho,” what they call the hipster scene in Botafogo, an old-style but rapidly gentrifying neighborhood. Open till sunup, this stone mansion has gained renown for its homemade burgers—go for the ones that feature wasabi mayonnaise—and for the casual vibe, common enough in Rio, but which here more resembles that of a São Paulo bar. The pleasant patio is great for stand-up drinking and movie-watching, while the upper level is given over to food events, theater performances, parties, and more.

I would like to tell you about the place where you can the authentic real stuff that ordinary persons are selling on the street. An open air market called Feira da Ladra (Flee Market). It takes place around the Church of São Vicente de Fora on Tuesdays and Saturdays from 6h00 till 13h00. Here you can find everything that is characteristic about the Portuguese culture in objects, which belonged once to someone, who made it a part of their life for a number of years and now they are almost giving it away. I remember on one of my first trips I managed to grab a beautiful vintage 1940’s white linen hand braided table cloth that was custom made for the Henrique Family’s new dining room table. I got it from a middle aged woman, who went by the name of Maria Henrique who was selling a few pieces that had belonged to her grandmother. The hand sown H for the initial of the family’s last name approved for the authenticity of the item and I had no problem dishing out the incredible amount of…5 Euros.

Decorated by Luís Pinto Coelho, who also decorated “A Paródia” and “Pavilhão Chinês,” this historic bar is 40 years old. With an art nouveau décor, the space is very cozy. A piano serves as a table, and shelves are full of sculptures and busts. Journalists and people with connections to politics used to frequent this place, but that was some years ago. Nowadays, it’s a good choice for a conversation with friends, without the chaos of bigger bars like the ones in Bairro Alto.

Luxury and opulence define Donatella Versace’s fashion sense. This Roman-style palace with Brazilian marble, Italian mosaics, and gold columns, is no departure from her aesthetic. Details from the custom bath products to gold-and-fuchsia-patterned upholstery were conceived by the designer. From $492. 61/(0) 7-5509-8000. This appeared in the September, 2012 issue.

Two hours from Rio de Janeiro, off the coast of Angra Dos Reis, Ilha Grande makes for a spacious retreat for two or an epic group vacation. The private island’s six-bedroom house comes with kayaks and stand-up paddleboards, plus a staff ready to whip up caipirinhas at all hours of the day.

After helming Woodfire Grill, starring on Top Chef, and writing his first cookbook (which was nominated for a James Beard Award), chef Kevin Gillespie opened Gunshow in 2013. He named the spot after a Sunday tradition with his father but created an entirely unique concept for the menu, combining elements of Chinese dim sum and Brazilian churrascaria. Here, diners pair small plates like Japanese bacon-and-shrimp pancakes, Caribbean red snapper crudo, and Southern-style banana pudding with quirky cocktails, made with ingredients like asparagus vodka and shishito syrup. Popular with locals, Gunshow is also a favorite of celebrities, so make a reservation to avoid waiting.

Take a two-hour dinner cruise along the Rhône River aboard the charming Mireio, the largest panoramic restaurant boat in the region. On the Saint Bénézet Cruise, you’ll pass the most beautiful sites in Avignon—from the famous Pont d’Avignon and the quays along the Rhône to the Palais des Papes, the clock tower, and the Rocher des Doms—all while enjoying delicious dishes like duck with Provençale herbs and seasonal vegetables, and fillet of beef with jus au Châteauneuf-du-Pape. For something even more lively, you can opt for the Dinner Entertainment Cruise, which includes dancing on board until 1 a.m., or the Dinner Show Cruise, complete with a candlelit dinner and Brazilian entertainment. There are also lunch cruises, though they’re often more crowded than the dinner options.