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Head chef Bee Satongun and co-owner Jason Bailey, a husband-and-wife team, are dedicated to bringing back lost recipes and techniques of heirloom Thai cooking. Paste is one of Bangkok’s most exciting Thai restaurants, and the Michelin judges have duly noted that fact by gracing it with a star. The cuisine is based on century-old family recipes served with innovative twists and an attention to detail that make it as aesthetically pleasing as it is delicious. Signature dishes include black cod poached in duck lard and larb salad with pheasant, hog plum leaves, and edible flowers, but really everything is good.

Bangkok’s culinary scene has recently been enlivened by an influx of talented U.S. chefs who are upping creativity levels at venues around the city. One such addition is Texan Riley Sanders, the head man at Canvas. Sanders cut his teeth at restaurants in Austin and Chicago, as well as on a luxury yacht, and his globe-trotting approach to cooking is evident here. The emphasis is on local ingredients in the six- and nine-course tasting menus, which showcase modern Bangkok cuisine in a freewheeling approach. Recent menu highlights have included shrimp noodles dressed in an intense seafood sauce, and mud crab prepared with lotus root, lotus stem, swamp algae, and rice paddy herbs.

The true nature of old Bangkok can’t be sampled at its busy malls and modern shopping districts, but in enclaves such as this timeless thoroughfare in Chinatown. A narrow pedestrian lane, Trok Issaranuphap links two of the area’s main streets, Yaowarat Road and Charoen Krung Road, with Sampeng Lane, another pedestrian-only street filled with small department stores. It’s a portal to the traditional side of the city, especially for those who want to sample street food, as it is filled with stalls and vendors purveying tasty Chinese/Thai snacks and meals such as roast pork and duck and dumplings. The alley’s wet market is a great place to purchase fruit and vegetables. Other attractions include traditional-medicine shops, fortune tellers, and stalls selling assorted bric-a-brac.

Famous throughout Thailand, Nittaya is the perfect place to pick up some takeaway curry pastes for an authentic flavour of Bangkok. Located in the Banglamphu area of the city, the shop is easy to find - just follow your nose. Photo by LexnGer/Flickr.

One of the longest-standing restaurants in Chinatown’s Yaowarat Road area, Tang Jai Yoo fits the template of many of the dining venues in this part of town. The decor is faded and the harsh lighting would cast a sickly glow on even the most glamorous diner. Unlike glitzy restaurants elsewhere in the city, people come here solely to eat. Superstar TV chef Anthony Bourdain is among those to have lauded its signature whole roast suckling pig. Other choice items on the Thai-Chinese menu include steamed crab with black olives and ground pork, and deep-fried mantis prawns with chili and salt.

The undisputed king of Bangkok dive bars, Wong’s Place has a character of its own. It’s hard to describe exactly why you should go to this hole-in-the-wall institution near Lumpini Park. The furniture has seen better days, the toilets are nobody’s idea of a treat, and the service ranges from eccentric to downright surly. The fact that it is now one of the few venues in the city that remains open until the wee hours might explain its popularity. But really, it’s the fact that—for all its faults—the bar retains an unpretentious “up-for-it” vibe that is largely missing from more refined places. On quiet nights, there’s not a lot to recommend it, but visit on weekends and there’s a good chance you’ll fall under its beguiling spell.

A clue to the appeal of the bar Tropic City is in its name: Here, sultry influences from Polynesia, Southeast Asia, the Caribbean, and Latin America fuse in a most refreshing way. The tropical theme informs everything from the decor—a tasteful mash-up of flower motifs and Portuguese tiles—to the sociable atmosphere on the outdoor terrace, which is packed nearly every night. It is most evident, though, in the carefully curated cocktail list, which dabbles in gin and mezcal while putting a heavy emphasis on rum-based drinks. Cocktails pack a punch, but light infusions such as vanilla, pineapple, and aromatic spices make it easy to put away a few—which perhaps explains why the venue has become a go-to for the city’s party set.

Thai monkeys living in Lopburi, north of Bangkok, have a festival have not only in their honor, but one created specifically for them, each November. Begun by a local businessman hoping to boost tourism to the province in 1989, today the Monkey Buffet Festival attracts thousands of tourists. They come to watch some 3,000 local monkey’s gorge themselves on some 4,000kg of apples, bananas, cakes, and other sweets all served to them in a complex of temples dating back to the 10th century. It’s quite an experience, witnessing so many monkeys in what resembles a competitive eating contest, but offers fun for more than just the monkeys. The festival also features music and dancing for humans, and many people come dressed in monkey costumes.

Blackbird Caye Resort is the gateway to the stunning Belize Barrier Reef, but so much more than a stopgap hitching post for scuba nerds. Stretched across two miles of palm-fringed beach on the windward side of the Turneffe Atoll, Blackbird is set against a backdrop of more than 4,000 acres of untrammeled jungle, mangrove forests, sprawling lagoons, and migratory bird habitats. Many guests come to Blackbird to get under the water and at the reef – some of the best diving sites in Belize are a short five or ten minute boat ride from Blackbird’s dock – though this isolated island paradise has plenty to offer visitors looking to stretch their land legs. 18 ocean-view cabanas, each with its own private balcony and hammock, hold dominion over the Caribbean Sea. The Poolside Bar is a great place to unwind after a hot day in the sun, while the gallant High Tide Bar, with at least two feet in the sea at any one time, offers an excellent happy hour and complimentary snacks, including island fare like lion fish fingers, ceviche, conch fritters, and fried grouper. One of the top dive resorts in the world and a postcard-perfect island paradise, Blackbird is at once home away from home, and your own secluded hideaway. Photo Finish: Nikon D800 | 24-70mm f/2.8 lens | Aperture f/7.1 | ISO-640 | Shutter 1/30 sec.

Visit small villages, enjoy a traditional Thai meal in a local home, and stay at an eco-resort built into a hill.

Thailand has some of the most beautiful beaches in the world, and this itinerary takes you to the best of the best.

From the canals of Bangkok to the scenic paths of national parks, explore sides of Thailand most travelers never see with this 14-day itinerary.

From pad Thai to khao soi and everything in between, eat your way through Bangkok, Chiang Mai, and Koh Samui with this itinerary.

Read articles from this print issue of Afar Magazine.