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While Victoria Beach is among Laguna’s most famous stretches of sand, it remains blissfully quiet and uncrowded. Park along the Pacific Coast Highway and follow Victoria Drive until you reach the steps, then head down to the secluded beach, where you’ll find everything from a volleyball court and circular pool to caves for exploring and prime spots for skimboarding. Head north and you’ll even come across a pirate tower.

The 60-foot-tall tower is a bit of a mystery to locals, though it was likely built in 1926 as an enclosed staircase to the beach for William E. Brown, a senator from Los Angeles. In the 1940s, the city of Laguna sold the tower to retired naval captain Harold Kendrick, an alleged pirate aficionado who dressed in full regalia. He’d often invite the local children over for scavenger hunts for real cash, and rumor has it that there’s still some money and candy hidden in the tower today.

When Domingo Ghirardelli immigrated to the United States in 1849, he planned to strike it rich in the California Gold Rush. Unsuccessful, he opened a store in Stockton selling supplies and some confections to other hopeful miners. Flash forward a few years (and failed businesses), and Ghirardelli opened another confectionary company called Ghirardely & Girard, which would lay the foundation for today’s Ghirardelli Chocolate Company.

Chocolate was made on San Francisco‘s northern waterfront for many years but eventually moved out of the city. Luckily the buildings still stand, including the historic power plant with clock tower. Two floors were added to a warehouse in 1923, and atop those the famous 15-foot-high letters spelling out “Ghirardelli.” Though the company continues to make chocolate, it is no longer owned by the Ghirardelli family.

Still, there are plenty of reasons to visit the brick buildings that have been transformed into a thriving marketplace with restaurants—including our favorite, an upscale dim sum restaurant, Palette Tea House—, art galleries, shops, a winetasting room, and of course, a place to taste and buy Ghirardelli chocolate, a true San Francisco original. The square also hosts some popular San Francisco events, including an annual Christmas tree lighting and a chocolate festival held each September.

Salar de Uyuni, located in the Daniel Campos province of Bolivia, looks like it belongs on another planet. Stretching for more than 4,050 square miles—a little smaller than the state of Connecticut—it is the world’s largest salt flat, formed when several prehistoric lakes dried up 25,000 to 10,000 years ago, leaving behind hexagonal patterns of salt on the otherwise featureless surface. When nearby lakes overflow, or the area gets rain, a thin layer of water covers the expanse, transforming it into a massive reflective mirror that makes for jaw-dropping, dreamlike photos.


The natural wonder has served as a valuable source of salt and lithium for Bolivia, and it has long been a hot spot for tourism in South America. There’s even a hotel built out of salt bricks: the Palacio de Sal. If you’re planning a trip to witness the surreal beauty of the Salar de Uyuni salt flat, here’s what you need to know.



To see Salar de Uyuni’s breathtaking mirror effort, visit during wet season, from December to April—but be aware that when it gets too rainy, it can be hard to get around and you might not be able to access certain areas. May to November is the dry season, which means temperatures are colder, but the ground is harder and you can drive across the land more easily.



The ideal month to visit is May, when the seasons transition from wet to dry and you’ll have a good chance of seeing the salt flats both dusty and reflective.



Salar de Uyuni sits near the point where Bolivia, Argentina, and Chile meet, so tourists tend to come from three different starting places.



The town of Uyuni in Bolivia is the most popular place to embark on tours of the salt flats. The small town is so close to the flats, you can easily take day trips. If you’re traveling from La Paz to Uyuni, you can take a one-hour flight or an eight-hour overnight bus.



San Pedro de Atacama in Chile is another well-known starting point for tours of the salt flats, but because it’s about 200 miles away, most tours are three days long.



If you’re coming from Argentina, look into multi-day tours operating out of Tupiza, Bolivia, a good base less than 60 miles over the Argentinian border.



Tour operators in the region offer shared or private tours. Shared tours are more affordable, but they don’t offer much flexibility when it comes to your schedule. Also, most shared tours are led by Spanish-speaking guides, while private tours can offer English-speaking ones.



Many tours of the salt flats also go to other attractions in the area, such as the Polques hot springs, the Atacama Desert, and high-altitude lakes like Laguna Colorada. Look into tours originating in San Pedro de Atacama and Tupiza for itineraries that include these destinations.



Salar de Uyuni is located nearly 12,000 feet above sea level, so you might experience altitude sickness symptoms such as nausea and headaches and should plan accordingly.



To enter Bolivia, travelers must have a tourist visa, which costs $160 for U.S. citizens, and a yellow fever vaccination certificate if they are traveling from a country with risk of yellow fever.

The churros here supposedly get their crispy exterior from being cooked over an ax-cut beech-wood fire. You can sample the results when the 140-year-old shop is open: only two Saturdays in June, every day during the San Fermín festival in July, and Sundays in October. 34/948-227-627. This appeared in the May/June 2012 issue.

While heading out to raucous clubs can be a good time every now and then, sometimes you just want to listen to some good music and chill out for the evening. Luna offers a host of live music shows (check their website for upcoming artists), boasts a great atmosphere, and, to top it all off, you won’t have to push your way to the bar.

“This family-run restaurant on the fishing island of Pellestrina is quite far out—probably 45 minutes by boat. But in the summer months, it’s a lovely ride, breezy and fresh. Once you’re at the restaurant, you sit on a pontoon and see nothing but the spread of la laguna and the occasional boat speeding past. They do wonderful fish here. It’s incredibly fresh and they’ll bring you an array of mixed antipasti to start. The oven-baked turbot on potatoes with baby artichokes and baby tomatoes is fantastic. So, so good.”

Read about more of McAlpine’s Venice favorites.

Renowned Costa Rican architect Ronald Zürcher looked to his country’s colonial past when designing this hacienda-style property—witness its central courtyard, arched doorways, and terra-cotta roofs. Set amid a 30-acre coffee plantation just outside the capital city of San Jose, the hotel’s 308 traditional accommodations follow suit with dark wood furnishings, but a modern aesthetic pervades renovated guest rooms with streamlined furniture, intricately patterned bathroom tiles, and expansive views that extend from green lawns to forested mountains and urban skyline; some include small balconies that overlook the hotel’s two pools. On-site dining options include gourmet takes on Costa Rican fare at Hacienda Kitchen, Peruvian specialties at La Isabela, and fresh-made sushi at La Castilla, as well as a sports bar and café. The open-air great room invites reading and quiet conversations, but if you’re up for something a little more energetic, there are tennis courts, a driving range, a fitness center, and invigorating coffee scrubs at the spa.

Even though it’s more like 218 steps down to this secluded beach, getting here does take a little effort. It’s worth it for the views, though, and to find a nearly empty stretch of sand with one of the best shore breaks in town. Popular with bodysurfers and skimboarders, Thousand Steps is also an ideal place to simply lay down your towel and bask in the Southern California sun. If you’re feeling adventurous, walk south along the shore and you’ll come to Laguna’s most famous sea cave—it’s actually more like a tunnel, with a full walk-through that’s fun to explore. You can also walk north to find the Totuava cave, but pay attention to the water as both caves are only accessible during low tide.

Why we love it: A historic property teeming with rich, Moorish style

The Highlights:
- Iconic architecture and bold interior design
- A serene pool area surrounded by lush greenery
- A focus on sustainability, with low-energy lighting and water-efficient landscaping

The Review:
Built by Frank Miller and Arthur Benton in the early 1900s, this regal stone building presides over Laguna Beach, echoing the area’s Spanish Mission roots with white stucco, red terra-cotta roof tiles, secret turrets, and spacious patios. Inside, renowned interior designer Martyn Lawrence Bullard enhanced the castle-like structure with hand-painted furniture, Moorish tiles and lanterns, and wainscoting worthy of a Marrakech palace, giving the hotel a bohemian vibe. He also added softer notes like oxblood-leather armchairs and cerulean velvet couches that echo the blue of the Pacific below. Despite being a registered historic structure, Casa Laguna became the area’s first hotel to receive the Green Eco-Leaf rating from iStayGreen.org. Its sustainable initiatives range from bulk amenities and soaps to low-energy lighting and water-efficient landscaping.

The 23 suites all feature custom marble vanities, handcrafted natural fiber mattresses, and Martyn Lawrence Bullard fabrics and wallpapers. Expect beautiful attention to detail at every turn, from Dean & DeLuca snacks to Cowshed amenities made famous by the spa in Somerset, England. If you’re visiting for a special occasion, book the Bungalow, a freestanding, 600-square-foot sanctuary that offers ocean views from the living room and jetted clawfoot tub. It also has a large private balcony with a hammock for two. When not relaxing in their rooms, guests can enjoy a complimentary European-style breakfast as well as Mediterranean small plates throughout the day, all of which are available in the lobby, by the pool, or packed up for a picnic on the beach. There’s also an intimate spa with an outdoor area, where you can enjoy ocean views from the soaking tub before indulging in a hot stone massage.

Laguna’s very first restaurant, the White House opened way back in 1918. It’s been updated several times over the years so the menu feels fresh, but you come here for the cocktail lounge anyway. Head straight to the bar for well-made drinks like the Casa Blanca Organico (tequila, lightly muddled organic blackberries, agave, and club soda) and the house Old Fashioned, made with Bulleit bourbon and orange bitters. Some nights bring live entertainment, but there are always several flat-screens going so you can catch the game while you throw back a few drinks.

Despite its location in Chueca, to say nothing of its name, Bar Cock is not a gay bar. Rather, it is one of Madrid‘s oldest--and coolest--gin joints. Opened in 1921 by legendary barman Perico Chicote, it managed to stay open during the Civil War, and was a late-night hangout for Pedro Almodóvar and other creative young rebels during the 1970s movida. Today, there’s no better place in town for a classic cocktail and a little ambiance.

La Capilla de la Familia Sagrada sits at the base of Black Mesa, a sacred mountain on the San Ildefonso Pueblo reservation. It is one of the most photographed buildings in New Mexico. The little adobe chapel, against the backdrop of the Sangre de Cristo mountains, is dramatic in every season of the year. It can be seen from the road between Espanola and Los Alamos, but cannot be visited without permission from the Pueblo.

Located along the bluffs on Cliff Drive, Heisler Park is a walker’s paradise. Visitors looking to get some exercise can start at the lifeguard tower on Main Street and follow a one-mile loop through the park, passing more than a dozen art installations—not to mention six Laguna landmarks and sweeping ocean views–along the way. For those seeking something more relaxing, Heisler Park is also home to beautifully landscaped gardens, a marine refuge with tide pools, barbecues, picnic tables, and grassy lawns for lounging in the sun.

AFAR chose a destination at random—by literally spinning a globe—and sent comedian Jorma Taccone on a spontaneous journey to Nairobi, Kenya.

It was raining when we arrived in Donostia-San Sebastian, but the skies cleared on our second day, and we rode the funicular railway up Mount Igueldo to take in the view back on the city, La Concha Bay, and the empty beach. The “low” travel season had just begun, and the strange little children’s amusement park on the mountaintop had shuttered up for the fall and winter, adding just the right disorienting touch of weird desolation to the Basque country panorama.