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No photograph can capture this extraordinary art space created by mural artist Isaiah Zagar down at the quiet end of South Street in Philadelphia’s Center City—you have to see it to believe it. It’s also not easy to describe: an alternate universe? A magical mosaic environment? A creative outsider’s brilliant vision? A terrarium of otherworldly folk-art delights? Decide for yourself when you take a self-guided tour of this one-of-a-kind, ever-expanding project. The site includes an immersive outdoor-art installation crafted from found objects and handpainted tiles, as well as indoor galleries. The opening hours vary due to occasional public and private events; make sure to check the online calendar.

There’s truly no other place in the world like this unique and disturbing museum. It’s probably best that photography is strictly prohibited inside, because that might spoil the bizarre surprises that wait for those who haven’t been yet. The Mütter is a medical museum in Center City that’s part of the College of Physicians of Philadelphia. Be forewarned: Its world-renowned collections are often somewhat disquieting—biological oddities, anatomical and pathological specimens, wax models, and antique medical equipment. (Wooden cabinets in one gallery hold drawers full of objects that people have swallowed!) The gift shop may be the most interesting museum store you’ll ever visit, and might be the only place that sells conjoined-twin cookie cutters.

One of the five original public squares in Philadelphia planned by William Penn, Rittenhouse Square was originally called Southwest Square and was later renamed after David Rittenhouse, a Philadelphia astronomer, inventor, and clockmaker. Although it is now one of the most popular public spaces in Center City, in the 18th century it served as a livestock pasture and later, brickyards surrounded the square. Not until the 1880s, when the city’s elite began moving into the area, did the park begin to take on its modern-day elegance. High-rise condos and luxury hotels have replaced many of the historic mansions that once surrounded the square. Many of Philly’s finest boutiques, hotels, and restaurants sit nearby, including Parc Restaurant Bistro & Café, a great spot for people watching and celebrity spotting. Rittenhouse Square hosts many events from spring through fall, including: A weekly farmers’ market every Tuesday from 10 am to 1 pm (May through November). The biannual Rittenhouse Square Fine Art Show in the spring and fall. The next art show will be held June 6-8, 2014, when the area in and around the square displays original work by more than 140 artists. This event is the nation’s oldest outdoor original art show.

It may not be the smallest U.S. national park (that honor goes to Pennsylvania’s Thaddeus Kosciuszko National Memorial, at 0.02 acres), but the Seattle unit of the Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park is a small hidden gem in Pioneer Square. Interactive exhibits allow visitors of all ages to follow actual gold-rush stampeders on their cross-country adventure through journals, personal papers, and artifacts. Step into a miner’s cabin or hop on a scale to calculate your actual worth in gold. Learn about the entrepreneurs, like John Nordstrom or George Bartell, who came to the area to make their fortunes outfitting gold prospectors (and whose businesses survive today). This fascinating free museum is kid-friendly and a welcome rest stop for downtown visitors.

Voted Philly’s best French bakery, Miel is a charming and comfortable café that serves great coffee, inexpensive lunch options (hot and cold sandwiches, and soup), and of course, the best pastries. Get here early or the croissants will be gone! Enjoy free wi-fi with your treats.

What do Al Capone and Bruce Willis have in common? They both did time here at Eastern State Penitentiary. (OK, Willis wasn’t an inmate, but he did shoot the film 12 Monkeys here.) The facility’s first inmate was brought through these doors in 1829, and the prison was in use until 1971. After closing, it became a target for vandals and housed a sizable colony of stray cats. Real estate developers proposed repurposing it as condominiums (high-security, of course), but preservationists won out. They raised funds to stabilize the crumbling interior and remove trees that were growing inside some cells. Wander through its stark interior and learn about the fascinating history of this unique site and its previous tenants, including Capone. Don’t miss the special art installations that are on display here all year round.

In warm-weather months, the Penn’s Landing waterfront area along the Delaware River is always busy with activity. On the Great Plaza there are ongoing free festivals, summer concerts, a movie series, and Fourth of July fireworks. Other attractions here include the RiverLink Ferry to New Jersey, the Independence Seaport Museum, and kayaks and swan boats available for rental. In winter, Penn’s Landing is host to one of Philadelphia‘s most spectacular outdoor ice rinks, the Blue Cross RiverRink. Historic ships, including the Moshulu, a beautiful 1904 four-masted steel sailing vessel, are moored at the waterfront. The Moshulu now features a popular restaurant on its deck, and the tall ship is dramatically illuminated at night.

Monk’s Cafe bills itself as “the soul of Belgium in the heart of Philadelphia.” My description of this neighborhood bar would be a crazy, packed joint that happens to offer the best beer selection around. In fact, the back bar has one of the best selections of Belgian beers on draught in the U.S. Those who feel a bit overwhelmed by all the options can use the famous “Beer Bible” to choose just the right brew. The food is also very good, and Monk’s has received dozens of “Best of Philly” awards, including the best fries in the city. I can attest that they truly are the best: They’re served with bourbon mayonnaise, the perfect accompaniment. In true Belgian fashion, the mussels are a popular item. The menu also has a few vegetarian options, including an excellent veggie burger.

Visitors to Philadelphia should not miss out on an iconic local treat—the soft pretzel. Sure, you can find them pretty much everywhere in Philly, but the real deal is baked fresh daily. At the Reading Terminal Market, go to the place where they’ll roll and twist the dough right in front of you—Miller’s Twist—where the soft pretzels are fresh, hot, and buttery (and beyond delicious). Locals line up here daily for fresh soft pretzels and pretzel dogs (hot dogs rolled inside a pretzel bun). There are only fresh pretzels here, still warm from the oven, baked to golden perfection, and brushed with melted butter. The aroma is intoxicating. You’ll want more than one! Save room for a milkshake made with fresh local ice cream.

Great pub, great food, and super-friendly atmosphere. What more could you ask for? You’ll find an extensive beer selection here, and an excellent menu featuring traditional pub fare. The fried dill pickles are a treat. Fergie’s hosts an open mic night on Mondays and often features traditional Irish music sessions.

Pizza Brain, located on Frankford Avenue in Fishtown, bills itself as the world’s first pizza museum and restaurant. With pizza-related toys, artwork, and memorabilia on display around the eatery, fine dining becomes fun dining. An added bonus? An outpost of Little Baby’s Ice Cream—revered around Philly for its handcrafted batches of exotic ice cream flavors—is right next door, making this the perfect address for kids and foodies of all ages. The geniuses behind Pizza Brain have now opened a second restaurant, Pizza Dads, in Brewerytown. Both locations are BYOB.

No need to jet to France for French bistro fare—holding court a stone’s throw from the famed 9th street Italian market, French husband-and-wife duo Charlotte and Pierre Calmels (formerly of Le Bec Fin fame) regale locals at Bibou with a masterful, market-driven menu that changes at the chef’s whim. A must on any visit to the City of Brotherly Love!

Sandwiched between the White House, the U.S. Treasury Department, and the Willard Hotel, this legendary spot since 1906 has catered to visitors, power brokers, celebrities, sports icons, and literary figures with its stellar food and service. Inside, frames upon frames of such individuals surround the restaurant. The outdoor dining area feels cozy amidst the hustle and bustle of Pennsylvania Avenue. Brunches are relaxed and feature a wonderful blend of starters, entreés and sides such as fluffy crab omelette, salmon tartar, shrimp n’ grits, and poached eggs in sausage.

Philadelphia locals who love the outdoors are particularly fond of walking, jogging or biking the scenic 8.5-mile riverfront “Loop”. The Loop is what we call the recreational path that runs from near the Art Museum to the west side of the Schuylkill River on Martin Luther King Drive, then crosses the Falls Bridge in East Falls, and continues along Kelly Drive back to Boathouse Row, Lloyd Hall and the Art Museum. (Or it can be done in the reverse.) One of the best things about this route for cycling or jogging is that Martin Luther King Drive is closed to vehicular traffic from 6 am to 5 pm on Saturdays and Sundays from April through October. (A small portion of the road from Eakins Oval to Sweetbriar Drive re-opens to traffic at 12 noon.) Bike rentals are available from Wheel Fun at Lloyd Hall. The view of Boathouse Row above is just one of many scenic views from Martin Luther King, Jr. Drive (formerly known as West River Drive) on the west banks of the Schuylkill.

Easily my favorite store in Philly to browse or “window shop”, Open House features such an entertaining assortment of interesting goods that it’s a challenge to walk out without buying something. There are great Philly-themed items and gifts, extremely unique housewares, fantastic jewelry, bags and accessories, gifts for baby, and more. Open House has something for every budget and is a worthwhile shopping stop in Philly’s Midtown Village.