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Chris Colin experiences a Caribbean paradise from both sides of a resort’s walls.

With over 1,000 years gone by since its founding, Hanoi is one of Asia’s grande dames and is not lacking in historical attractions. The city’s many traditions are reflected in its top historic attractions, including stately pagodas, churches, and architecture. The more tragic modern history is not so apparent but can still be glimpsed in remnants and monuments throughout Hanoi.

Vietnam’s capital offers hotels with pockets of peace—lakeside tai chi sessions and ancient pagodas—amid the city’s motorbikes and hawker stalls. For a classic stay, book a room at the Sofitel Legend Metropole, a landmark in Hanoi’s French Quarter. Culture junkies should base themselves at the Hotel de L’ Opera Hanoi or the Hilton Hanoi Opera. InterContinental Hanoi Westlake is just north of the bustling Old Quarter, but offers a serene waterfront setting.

A stunning combination of rock formations, pristine beaches, sloping mountains, and the glittering East Vietnam Sea surround this dreamy resort—so it’s no surprise that many of its key activities revolve around nature. Depending on the season, scuba diving, mountain hiking, and sailing are big draws, but you can enjoy sunset cruises, kayaking, beach yoga, and early-morning fishing excursions with the chef any time of year. Excursions to Nha Trang, the countryside, the Cai River mud baths, and more can also be arranged, but there’s plenty on property to keep guests occupied—not least the spacious villas, many of which are set along the cliff tops or beach and feature private pools. The Six Senses brand (which also oversees a sister Vietnamese property in the Con Dao marine park) highlights wellness, holistic living, and sustainability, and you’ll find plenty of evidence of that here, from the local organic produce used in the restaurants and bars to the traditional therapies and integrated wellness programming offered at the spa. Other can’t-miss activities include a private dinner in the mountain-set wine cave and an aerial yoga session—but maybe not in that order.

A once-impenetrable country reveals itself to writer Matt Gross one meal at a time.

The Vietnamese rise early and work hard, and a nourishing morning meal along with some rocket-fuel coffee goes a long way toward setting up the day. The breakfast staple is, of course, pho, and its warming goodness shouldn’t be missed. Western-style sustenance—from crepes to steak and eggs—is also easy to find within the city.

While big international bands tend to stick to Ho Chi Minh City (if they visit Vietnam at all), Hanoi can nonetheless offer its share of quality live tunes. And when no live musician is onstage, a talented DJ is often on hand to lend a creative soundtrack for the evening.

With settlement dating back to 1699, the “Little City” is named for The Falls Church, an 18th-century Anglican parish (for whom President George Washington was a vestryman). At only 2.2 square miles, this historic suburb of Washington, D.C. is known for its urban village community, nationally ranked school system, restaurants, and a thriving Hispanic and Vietnamese community.

Central Vietnam was one of the heaviest affected regions of the country during the American War. There is little evidence of fighting at many of the war sites nowadays, but several spots remain fascinating for history buffs.

With a long and often tumultuous history that encompasses the heady days of the Champa Kingdom, Hoi An’s heyday as a regional trading hub, the American War, and Vietnam’s recent emergence as a tourist destination, the central part of the country is not short in intrigue.

Alternative new venues underscore Hanoi’s status as the nation’s capital of understated hip. Hanoi has pop-up cafés in the homes of artists, cafés that strike the right balance between quality coffee and youthful atmosphere. Also, tucked-away you will find Hanoi’s bars and music venues purveying heady cocktails, and soundtracks covering all bases from Thai funk to hip-hop beats sampled from scratchy vintage Vietnamese records.

Recalling Saigon’s past, Cuc Gach Quan offers fine Vietnamese fare in a cozy setting that re-creates the home of the owner’s grandmother—a French-colonial house with worn, wood-plank floors; retro furnishings; warm lighting; and a floating staircase to connect the two levels. It’s grown in popularity ever since Brad and Angelina ate here in 2011, but the menu continues to focus on Vietnamese dishes while following the approach summarized in its motto: “Eat green, live healthy.” Expect menu items such as fresh spring rolls with shrimp, crispy sea bass, and fantastic homemade tofu fried with chili and lemongrass.

Minh’s jazz club is owned by one of Hanoi‘s most famous jazz musicians, Quyen Van Minh. Live jazz, performed by local and foreign musicians, including Minh’s son, is the big draw here.

A journey into the ethnic neighborhoods redefining the City of Light

Comfort food doesn’t have to be heavy and drowned in grease: just try pho, the light and flavorful Vietnamese soup that’s much loved by Seattleites. Than Brothers is the local chain, with locations all around town, but the Capitol Hill one is one of their longer-established restaurants. First-timers can start with the classic #1, medium-rare beef, before advancing to options such as tripe and tendon; chicken, meatball, and vegetarian choices are also available. The “small” bowl is a hearty, filling portion for about $5, and comes with their trademark cream puff, but add on a Vietnamese iced coffee or tea for an extra sugar-and-caffeine rush. As their menu notes, pho is particularly good when you’re feeling under the weather — Vietnam’s answer to chicken noodle soup, perhaps?