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After Toronto, Montréal is the Canadian city with the largest population of residents of Italian descent. For more than a century, the community has been centered in one of the city’s most charming neighborhoods, Little Italy. The way to the heart of this neighborhood is arguably through its stomach or, rather, the Jean-Talon Market, where residents have come to buy produce and stock their pantries since 1933. Even if you aren’t shopping for fresh vegetables or fruits, it’s a good place to come to sample Québecois products and buy gifts like local jams, jellies, and maple products to take back home.

When I stepped into the grand lobby of Québec’s Le Château Montebello, I felt like I was entering Paul Bunyan’s living room. Giant timbers braced a three-story-high ceiling, and a massive fireplace in the center radiated warmth in all directions. After checking in, I joined the guests gathered around the six-sided hearth and sank into a leather club chair. I spent the rest of the day by the fire, sipping hot toddies and napping, as the comfort of the crackling flames sent me and the other fireside dozers snuggling deeper into our cushions. I had come to ski some of the 65,000 acres of wooded backcountry that neighbor the resort, but the château was so welcoming, I found it hard to leave.


Often described as the world’s largest log cabin, the lodge and two other main buildings were constructed in 1930 from 10,000 red cedar logs and 500,000 handmade wooden shingles. The houses and the vast surrounding forests were long owned by the politically prominent Papineau family, and until 1970, the estate remained a private nature retreat for Canada’s upper class. As I walked through the château’s halls, the intricately carved banisters and exposed beams reminded me of the great western lodges in the U.S. national parks—only without any grumpy tourists demanding to know where the animals are.

In the guest rooms, deluxe amenities such as flat-screen TVs and rain-dome showerheads upstaged anything found in Yellowstone or Yosemite. Despite the modern perks, rawhide lampshades and other rustic details helped my suite retain its frontier appeal. When I got up to pull the plaid drapes closed that night, I watched a horse-drawn sleigh pass by, glowing in the moonlight against the dark ribbon of the frozen Ottawa River.

Without fresh snow to ski the next morning, I was left to explore the lodge’s other activities. I opted out of getting scrubbed with maple sugar at the spa or unsuccessfully flirting with French-Canadian women by the fire, and instead devoted the day to learning the inscrutable rules of curling. The château has an indoor ice rink dedicated to the sport, a national favorite that’s best described as a combination of shuffleboard and falling down a lot. My instructor was Henri, a kindly sexagenarian who, like many in Québec’s western Outaouais region, seemed more comfortable speaking French than English. As it turns out, kindly reassurance sounds the same in either language. But as my backside repeatedly hit the ice, Henri’s patient polyglot insistence that I was doing “une belle job” grew progressively less convincing.

After my rough-and-tumble day, I dined in the white-tablecloth Aux Chantignoles restaurant. Québecois cuisine dominates the menu, and I followed a dinner of tender venison osso buco with a slice of Québec’s famously sweet and jiggly sugar pie—think pecan pie sans pecans. Snow fell just in time for me to ski through the nearby forest on my last day. I spent a long afternoon there, gliding among stands of birch, pine, and spruce in the rolling Laurentian Highlands. Now and again, I paused to admire one of the countless frozen lakes, their smooth surfaces dotted with tracks left by moose and white-tailed deer. I skied in the silent wilderness until just after sunset. As the scent of a wood fire began to tickle my nose, I grew eager to cozy up by the hearth again. I turned back toward the château’s stone chimney, its rising plume of smoke signaling for my return.
This appeared in the November/December 2010 issue.

Rustic luxury is the vibe at Amansala, where all accommodations are cabana-style. How rustic? Well, lights go out at 11 each night, after which time candles provide illumination. Ocean breezes do the work that is relegated to air-conditioners at less eco-conscious hotels. Rooms are decorated with locally sourced materials, including driftwood and stones. Candles and incense are in-room amenities. The idea, says owner Melissa Perlman, is for guests to feel that they’re staying at a friend’s home rather than an anonymous hotel where they’re just a room number. The hotel also hosts yoga retreats several times throughout the year, as well as detox cleanse packages and “Bikini Bootcamp” intensives for guests who want to get in shape.

Every story about Chatham Bars Inn surely features the veranda, a wide porch with companionable groupings of wicker armchairs and table service that alleviates the need to fetch your own drink—so you never have to look away from the serene view of sailboats and swooping seabirds.

Chatham Bars Inn excels memory making and, in addition to spaces like the verandah that make you feel you’re part of a generous and grand tradition, this Cape Cod resort has created intimate places (a small library, a settee in front of a fireplace, a private deck outside your cottage, chairs arrayed around a fire on the beach) where your private traditions will be forged.

It faces the aptly named Pleasant Bay, calm waters sheltered from the Atlantic surf by barrier islands. And you’ll find it’s impossible to forget where you are: The fleet of sailboats and fishing boats and runabouts keep the ocean top of mind while the creative menus in the dining venues (centered around the catch of the day and the seasonal produce from their own eight-acre farm) are likely the most locavore of any property of this caliber.

Originally built as a private hunting lodge, the inn has been in business since 1914, which means many guests have been coming here since childhood. This curated version of a Cape Cod beach vacation is a decades-long habit for those guests—and one that new arrivals may be inspired to adopt. Pride of place is strong here and guests get caught up in it, too. While you don’t have to shuck the clams or dig the potatoes yourself (though those could probably be arranged upon request), you will never feel insulated from the experience of this distinctive part of New England.

Doha’s skyline looks like something out of The Jetsons, is futurist, the buildings’ architecture is bold and a feat of ingenuity and good engineering and the best place to see it all is from the water, preferably at sunset when the promenade and buildings are lit and the sky over the teal waters of the Arabian Gulf turns different hues of orange. Dhows—Qatari fishing boats--are available along the promenade for hourly hire. Some dhow cruises offer three- to four-hour outings with dinner, traditional music and entertainment, while others will offer quick itineraries as short as fifteen minutes. Day dhow cruises are also available and include a stop at Al Safliya a nearby island for a swim, jet-skiing and fishing.

You enter Mister Jiu’s off of Waverly Place and step first into the dark and dreamy bar, a perfect place to pause for one of the restaurant’s inventive cocktails. With the mood set, follow the hallway, which gives way to the light and bright dining room that overlooks the lanterns and Chinese signs of Grant Avenue. Chef Brandon Jew and his talented team buzz around the open kitchen, whipping up small and large dishes of organic, locally sourced meat, fish, and vegetables. The cuisine makes modern versions of old classics: instead of the usual white doughy wrap, pork buns here are served on Dutch crunch rolls; hot and sour soup is served with Dungeness crab; and shui jiao dumplings are filled with lamb. Banquet-style dining is encouraged—how else will you get to test out that old-school Chinese restaurant mainstay, the lazy Susan, built into each round teak table? A prix fixe menu and à la carte ordering are available. Within six months of opening, Mister Jiu’s earned a Michelin star.

If you’re not scuba-certified—or you just don’t have time for a dive—snorkeling the waters of Manzanillo can be just as rewarding. Various outfitters can lead you on an aquatic excursion that includes snorkeling around a shipwreck. Keep an eye out for colorful fish species such as the rainbow wrasse, as well as corals and jeweled moray eels, among other marine fauna and flora.

For pure private island bliss with a serious side of digital detox, I love hopping on the private boat charter and cutting through a sea of turquoise for 20 minutes to arrive at The Meridian Club on gorgeous, isolated Pine Cay. The only resort on the 800-acre private island, which also features 35 private homes but nothing else, has just 14 beachfront rooms and is luxe zen to the core.

The property has just 12 suites and two freestanding cottages and is the kind of place you come to digitally detox, to rewind and rejuvenate — there are no cars on this island and the most traffic you’ll see on the electric golf car is an iguana family crossing the road. There are also no televisions or telephones in the rooms although there is WiFi (but you are asked to not conduct phone conversations while here unless it’s an emergency as noise carries). The rooms are beyond spacious with a whitewashed beach vibe and large screen in porches with ocean views and direct beach access. I loved falling asleep to the sound of the ocean every night and the beds and linens were top notch comfortable. The suites also feature landscaped outdoor showers. The cottages are even larger with separate living and lounging spaces as well as having the screen-in porch and outdoor shower set up.

Beyond the rooms, I loved the staff at this property. Everyone was so friendly and went out of their way to cater to my every whim. The meals, which are included in the rate, are also quite good with a varied menu and beautiful presentation. The restaurant, known as The Bistro, is open to hotel guests and also the homeowners who live or vacation on the island, and on weekend nights post dinner it can take on a very fun vibe with dancing by the pool or cocktails in the second floor lounge space.

Staying here is definitely an isolated experience. It isn’t easy or cheap to access Provo for an afternoon, so it is best for couples or friends (it’s not very child focused) that are looking for a digital detox style getaway where you don’t need to be constantly connected (but there is still WiFi to Netflix and chill at night) or entertained by a myriad of restaurants, shops or bars. Here you get back to nature. Enjoy fresh, seasonal, well-prepared meals and stiff drinks at the bar and just soak up the island vibes in a beautiful private island atmosphere for a four or five nights. Afterwards, you can hit up Provo for a few more and it will feel like a big city adventure! Oh and it’s not like you will be sans activity. There is great snorkeling and diving on reefs just off Pine Cay and there are also opportunities for fishing, walking and yoga. Yep, when it comes to wellness getaways, The Meridian Club delivers.

Did you know that only 25% of French people buy their cheese from a fromagerie? And of that 25, only 3-4% go to an affineur (cheese refiner). Both are the sad realities of a dying tradition in France of sourcing provisions from neighborhood artisans. Young affineur Baptiste Yapar doesn’t let the disheartening takeover of corporate food business dull his passion. The firebrand cheese master focuses his energy on running his shops Au Coeur du Marché (at the Marché d’Aligre) and educating the public. At La Cuisine Paris cooking school, he takes a small group through a complete background of cheese (it didn’t begin in France!), methods of production and the various designations and families of cheeses available. A copious tasting of 7-10 different cheeses (with wine) follows the contextual debut and is, as my friend and I agreed by the end, the closest thing approximating cheese heaven on earth. It is a fascinating two-hour experience that will not only inform how you consider the nuances of cheese in the future but will have you excited to seek out your nearest independent cheese shop for more.

Designed by Danish architect Jørn Utzon, the Sydney Opera House was inspired by its dramatic setting on Bennelong Point in Sydney Harbour, a location that’s long been sacred to the native Gadigal people. While construction took 16 years, including four years to figure out the spherical solution to the icon’s soaring sails, any controversies melted away when the masterpiece was completed in 1973. The same outside-the-box thinking that built the shell-shaped sculpture seeps through its walls today in the form of boundary-pushing opera, theater, and dance as well as contemporary music and mind-opening lectures. The landmark is also home to the beloved Opera Bar and Bennelong Restaurant upstairs, where diners can eat pavlova shaped like the landmark in which they sit.

Calm waters and beach sports are the main draws of El Cuco. Don’t worry about packing a picnic: there are plenty of kiosks where vendors sell snacks and simply-prepared seafood and fish. Be sure to bring cash (small bills) as it’s hard to find an ATM and few, if any, vendors take plastic.

Saskatchewan, Canada is home to nearly 100,000 lakes and rivers and the best freshwater fishing in the world. Fly fishing, ice fishing, drive-in or fly-in, you’ll find the fishing experience of a lifetime in Saskatchewan. With its warmer lakes in the south, to the colder waters in the north, the province has a remarkable diversity of species—68 different ones, in fact. Experienced fishing outfitters will help you find Northern pike, walleye, lake trout, Arctic grayling, rainbow trout and more. You can opt for a remote fishing lodge, like the Hatchet Lake Lodge, located on a private island in northern Saskatchewan, or let the fish that interests you lead you in your trip planning. If you want a walleye, then the Saskatchewan River is a good choice. Big on bass? They thrive in the Boundary Dam Reservoir. Wherever you head, put a nightcrawler on your hook, and you’ll have a bite before long. Photo by Kevin Hogarth Photography

Before lobster rolls were trendy in New York, there was Pearl Oyster Bar. Open since 1997, this tiny, no-reservations restaurant still has a solid 45-minute wait for a table on any given weekend night. But those who have eaten here will tell you it’s worth it, whether you dine at the namesake bar or in the cozy adjoining dining room (this is not a place to take big groups). Of course the fresh oysters and lobster roll are sure bets, but don’t overlook whatever whole fish they are serving that day, which can be enjoyed pan roasted or grilled.

The recently opened Boston Public Market is the only year round indoor market in the country to feature exclusively New England vendors. The bounty of 35 businesses representing farms, makers and food producers offers a cross section of all things local to eat from around Boston. Farm fresh produce, meat, poultry, fish, dairy and flowers along with an assortment of speciality and prepared foods. There are even a few beautiful craft artisans in the mix. A great place for families and foodies alike, there is even a selection of locally produced wines, beers and alcohol. Catch the warm glow from the hive at Boston Honey. Interactive classes will take place for all ages in the Market’s demonstration Kitchen. Connect with the people who feed New England in this great community space.

One of Caye Caulker’s best beach bars is also its friendliest. Set right on the Split—a narrow channel dividing the island’s north and south portions—Caye Caulker’s most social corner invites tourists and locals to gather for a swim off an extended dock, or to enjoy a cocktail and music. Lazy Lizard’s recently upgraded look includes a variety of umbrella-covered wooden picnic tables, seating under palapas, and a new beach extension with steps leading into the shallow sea areas for easy entry. On the menu, you’ll find typical bar bites: burgers, fish tacos, and full meals like a lobster plate. The bar holds occasional full-moon parties, live music, family-fun days, and beach volleyball tournaments.