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Mexico’s Pueblos Mágicos (Magic Towns) program was launched in 2001 by the country’s secretary of tourism, whose goal was to draw visitors to smaller municipalities that were typically under the tourist radar. Many of these towns have preserved their colonial architecture and traditional culture. Magic towns near Manzanillo include Nogueras and Comala, and a guided tour will introduce you to the charms of both.

While it can get busy, Chileno Bay and its beach of the same name—considered by many repeat visitors to be the best all-around beach in the area—offer a calmer vibe than the party-hearty Medano Beach. Those who want to experience Los Cabos underwater should head here for snorkeling or scuba sessions. Expect to see colorful fish, sea turtles, manta rays and sea fans.


There’s a lot to recommend the tourist-corridor beach known as Chileno Bay, or Playa el Chileno. It’s consistently ranked as one of the cleanest beaches in all of Mexico and has earned coveted Blue Flag status multiple times (the award goes to sand stretches that boast excellent water quality, safety, and services). Here you’ll find ample parking, handicap access, restrooms with showers, and nice palapas for free shade. It’s easy to understand why it’s one of the most popular weekend escapes for locals. The swimming and snorkeling conditions are great, especially the farther out you go. During the winter, take a moment to hold your head underwater. You might hear gray whales’ melodic songs in the distance.

Marfa is a place of outstanding artists and makers. One of them–no doubt–is Ginger Griffice. I’ve known Ginger since meeting her at Trans Pecos last year and I’ve been a frequent shopper at her Marfa Brands Store, where she sells her soaps, fun glassware and other neat items. This time, I finally caught her in action, making a brand new batch of her amazing artisanal soaps. Ginger takes much of her olfactory inspiration from the desert that surrounds Marfa. Her natural soaps are made from vegetable and essential oils, and she often adds tea (green, Earl Grey, Lapsang souchon) for added scent, color, and texture. If you’re looking to take a little bit of Marfa back home with you, this is the place.

Fun fact: one of Marfa Brands Soaps, Ranch Road, was specifically created for El Cosmico, to capture ‘the smell of rain, and the free spirit that El Cosmico is all about’.

Opening times are fluid, Marfa style. If Ginger’s store is closed, you can always swing by the ‘Get Go’ grocery, a short block away, and pick up a few bars there.

>>>Warmest thanks to the awesome team at El Cosmico for another unforgettable Trans Pecos Festival of Music and Love–an annual gathering of friends, music, art, camping, sandlot baseball and a night sky full of stars in Marfa, Texas. Love you guys.

Chef Thierry Blouet’s Café des Artistes made an immediate impression on the region when it opened inside the JW Marriott Los Cabos Beach Resort & Spa in Puerto Los Cabos. Blouet has spent more than a quarter century perfecting his Café des Artistes concept, one that blends gourmet French techniques with highly curated Mexican flavors. The results are magical: A tuna tartare is stacked delicately with pickled vegetables, avocado slices, and crispy fennel; pork belly is served with hibiscus and red wine sauce; and shrimp comes with a plum-habanero mole. The setting is equally striking: A sophisticated dining room opens to a terrace with breathtaking views of Cabo San Lucas Bay and, in the distance, city lights.

In 1934, architect Luis Barragán won a contest put on by the city of Guadalajara to design a park on former prison land, creating a gateway to the city center. Together with his engineer brother, Barragán based his design on functionalist, Art Deco, and California modernist styles, incorporating elements of red and yellow as a nod to French 1930s design. Although the park (originally named Parque Revolución but now referred to as Parque Rio, or Red Park) has undergone significant changes over the years, certain elements—the red-and-yellow benches, the kiosk, the fountain, and the mashup of 1930s and ’40s architectural styles that would come to define Barragán’s later work—are still intact.

Parque de los Novios, in the center of Santa Marta’s colonial sector, is perfect for people-watching in the late afternoons when the tropical heat abates. Everyone from the gentry to the common folk—not to mention a plethora of brides posing beneath the gazebo—seems to treat themselves to a nice stroll around the park. Nearby restaurants and bars come alive after night falls, as do, of course, street artists and musicians.

Tempt fate at the Monkey Paw’s Book-O-Matic machine, where for the price of a toonie you’ll be delivered an archaic tome in the vein of Elementary Arabic, Vol. 3. I’ll let you know how my studying gets on. The Monkey’s Paw is an eclectic vintage bookstore on Dundas with a collection of unique books, vintage maps, and bugs preserved in Lucite.

Evincing a nautical but contemporary style, this open-air restaurant serves some of the best tostadas in Playa del Carmen. The signature delicacy is a crispy tortilla covered in any number of toppings, and at Las Hijas de la Tostada, expect them to be piled high with just the right blend of sauces and seafood. Try two or three, especially the camarón roca, with shrimp, eel sauce, and a drizzle of pureed chipotle, or raw options like the tostada Uxmal, with tuna and spicy salsa.

There are nearly as many snorkeling options in Los Cabos as there are fish in the Sea of Cortés, and that’s saying a lot. If you’re somebody who prefers going it alone, pick up a snorkeling mask and fins and head to Chileno Bay for some undisturbed fish-seeing. But if you need a little more hands-on guidance, the outfit to dial is Pez Gato. Their twice-daily, four-hour tour includes everything you’ll need—snorkeling gear, drinks, fresh fruit, and sandwiches—plus a friendly and knowledgeable crew who will keep you entertained with facts about the region as you navigate the waters to Santa Maria, a horseshoe-shaped bay that’s home to a marine sanctuary and some of the clearest waters around.

You’ve likely seen the main attraction of Tulum in a travel ad, a postcard, or a friend’s Instagram feed, but there’s still nothing like witnessing first hand the only Maya site that overlooks the Caribbean Sea. Standing before the 13th-century structures will leave you feeling awed by the Maya’s archaeological achievement and its resilience—still standing after being hundreds of years of being buffeted by salty water and wind. True, it’s the main attraction here, but it’s not the only one. With a quirky backstory and a lot of international press, more and more foodies are making their way to Hartwood, a restaurant that lacks electricity. The chef prepares all dishes—made with local ingredients—on an open fire.

Built in 1930 by Luis Barragán’s contemporary and close friend Pedro Castellanos, Casa Quiñones is considered the first truly modern home in Guadalajara. With its Art Deco design, tile floors, and floating staircase, it’s also an excellent example of the Escuela Tapatía de Architectura—the Guadalajaran school of architecture defined by its Mexican-meets-Moorish style. Today, the home serves as a bookend, along with Barragán’s Casa Franco, to the ultramodern Hotel Demetria. Hotelier and architect Iván Cordero owns all three properties, helping to create a dialogue between the old and new in Guadalajara.

The quiet street known as Avenida Nader, where several pioneers lived during the city’s 1970s genesis, ranks among the most “historic” neighborhoods in this all-but-brand-new city. With City Hall’s rear garden to the west and an upscale neighborhood of winding streets to the east, the avenue has transformed in recent years, going from quaint and residential to an eclectic mix of hipster bars, lantern-lit outdoor restaurants, and hidden street art. The strip embraces its historic roots while also providing a bit of vie de bohème you might not expect at a beach resort.

Playa del Carmen’s winning charm emerges all along this wide pedestrian avenue, which runs parallel to the beach. Eateries here include everything from cheap fast food like Pizza Renzo to upscale restaurants and cafes; the best people-watching is from outdoor seating at the sports bar Tequila Barrel or Chez Céline bakery. The shopping scene offers international luxury brands side by side souvenir shops, but the most interesting Mexican handicrafts await at boutiques like Sin Pecado and Sol Jaguar. Since this part of town has little shade, it’s best to avoid the midday sun; instead, try an early-morning visit with some streetside coffee in hand, then revisit at sunset to kick off an evening of dining, shopping, and bar-hopping.

Palais Amani is one of the most romantic Fes riad dining experiences. Tinkling fountains? Check. Orange trees strung with twinkling lanterns? Check. Rose petals strewn hither and thither? Check. Start your meal with a rooftop aperitif to admire the 360-degree views of the medina, or with a beefy red wine fireside in the lounge instead; then, feast on chef Houssam Laassiri’s modern spin on traditional dishes like slow-cooked beef tagine or confit duck with prunes, as well as a divine chocolate mousse. The restaurant hosts occasional pop-ups, too, featuring celebrated chefs from the U.K. and Europe, so keep an eye on the hotel’s website for what’s up next.

Just to the southwest of Tucson, on the San Xavier Reservation, sits the late XVIII-century Mission San Xavier del Bac, one of the finest examples of Spanish colonial architecture in the U.S. The combination of late Baroque and Moorish-inspired design is a beacon any time of the year, but on this winter day, the flooded fields worked some magic—panoramas of reflected landscapes are almost nonexistent in southern Arizona! The ‘white dove of the desert’ is the oldest intact European structure in Arizona, and it still serves as a parish church for the Tohono O’odham people.