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Set in an 18th-century palazzo, once a former bank, the Park Hyatt Milan boasts interiors designed by American-born, Paris-based architect Edward Tuttle. It aims to wow from the outset. Guests are greeted by a lobby decorated with sophisticated materials such as warm travertine stone and alabaster, and topped with a 30-foot glass-domed cupola. There’s a discernibly modern aesthetic throughout the rest of the hotel, though, from the vibrant modern art scattered throughout the public areas to the contemporary color palettes (creams, beiges, and gentle grays). Rooms are correspondingly elegant, with high ceilings, expensive dark woods, rich wool carpets, and hand-selected furnishings (Murano light fixtures, Bang & Olufsen TVs). The bathrooms are especially impressive, not only because of their generous size and marbled interiors, but also thanks to the mirrored walls, double sinks, octagonal stone and glass showers, and Lauro Tonatto bath products.

Set in a renovated 18th-century Milanese palazzo on a private street close to Milan’s Via Montenapoleone, the Bulgari is one of Milan’s most distinguished residences. The hotel’s enormous private garden dates back to the 14^th century, and the interior is awash in sophisticated materials like African black marble, Italian stone, and teak. In short, the place oozes class. The rooms—designed by the architectural studio Antonio Citterio, Patricia Viel and Partner—are tasteful, modern, and surprisingly adventurous. Located along dimly-lit corridors, the rooms come in various color schemes and feature an array of designer furnishings and conveniences, including not one but two plasma screens, Tivoli radios, and exclusive Bulgari bathroom products. Balconies overlook the surrounding villas, and gardens have been redesigned by landscape architect Sophie Agata Ambroise and feature patio furniture and a dedicated bar service. The Bulgari gardens serve as a natural extension of the nearby Botanical Garden and provide private relaxation amid Milano’s bustle. The hotel also has a high-end restaurant and bar, and a comprehensive spa. All guests get access to a personal shopper, personal trainer, luxury car rental, and even assistance with packing and unpacking. In addition, the concierge can arrange everything from hydroplane trips around Lake Como to personal shopping excursions around Italy by private plane, limousine, or yacht.

Country kitchen and slow food oasis in the middle of Milan. This is the place where you will want to have your Sunday, especially if the weather is good and you can get an outdoor table. Cuisine plays homage to Lombardy’s best and favorites, using only locally sourced products.

It’s worth a peek inside Zaini, Milan‘s historic chocolate maker, which began creating delicious chocolate confectionaries in the 1910s. Celebrating a 100-year anniversary, Zaini opened the via Carlo de Cristoforis location in honor of a century passed and has included the cocktail magic of Mag’s Flavio Angiollilo.

The historic and modern center of the city, the Piazza del Duomo (the square surrounding the cathedral’s base) remains a popular meeting place, hangout and hub of Milanese life. Local vendors setup shop (selling fresh coconut in the summer, toys and tourist wares), kids run and play (free from traffic) and shoppers trickle in from the walking street surrounding the huge plaza. The statue of Victor Emmanuel II, the first king of Italy, is the best place to meet, sit, recharge and watch the city go by.

Fondazione Prada reopens its Milan exhibition space in a 205,000 square foot space designed by OMA (by Rem Koolhaas). Prada always has the most engaging shows-- getting the best of contemporary art.

The Milan Cathedral, or Duomo, occupies a site that’s been holy since the time of the Romans, but it wasn’t until the early 19th century when the finishing touches were finally placed on this massive building. The Duomo is the fifth largest cathedral in the world and one of the top tourist sites in the northern Italian city. Entrance is free, but a small fee is requested if you wish to take photos. Inside the church is even more magnificent then the outside, with scores of shrines and altars dedicated to saints and notable Milanese. During the Christmas holidays the city’s night market takes up residence next to the cathedral, adding one more reason to visit this central site.

Before taking the train to Rome, we picked up a spread of antipasti at Peck, a vast and pristine food shop in Milan. In addition to a huge selection of cheeses, fruit, salumi, and bread, Peck sells prepared specialties like meatballs, potato croquettes, and caprese salad.

Sometimes called “Milan‘s Sistine Chapel” because of its profusely--and beautifully-- decorated walls and ceilings, San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore is well worth a visit. The Renaissance paintings commissioned by the Sforza family (the primary sponsors of Leonardo da Vinci), adorn the walls of a cloistered convent founded for noble ladies in the early 16th century. Built on an ancient Roman site, the church was built and decorated in stages over several centuries, every interior wall covered in luminous colors befitting the pomp of Lombard aristocratic taste. In particular, frescoes by Bernardino Luini, student of da Vinci, blend the sacred and the profane, using members of the court as models for portraits of saints. Most of the numerous religious and secular works of the Milanese painter have been lost, so San Maurizio is the best place to see his works. To get the most out of a visit to this little gem of art history, go with a knowledgeable guide. My husband and I toured historical Milan with Ludovic Goudin of Walks of Italy, who offer a variety of tours in Milan. San Maurizio was just one of the fascinating places we visited!.

The best tailors in Italy are from Napoli, and the best ateliers are in Milan, in particular in the beautiful Fashion Quadrilateral where every shop is more gorgeous than the next. Rubinacci is definitely a cut above the rest for its impeccable style, perfectionist tailors, and prime location. The suits are iconic, hence the reason why Fiat heir Lapo Elkann, Bryan Ferry, and Ferrari’s Montezemolo wear them. Grandson Luca has a breezy ready-to-wear line as well. (Fashionistas will note that The Sartorialist loves to snap shots of Rubinacci the Younger.)

While few in number, Milan‘s canals can be charming. Naviglio Grande, the largest, is my favorite to walk along. Lined by shops, outdoor cafes and bars, there is life alongside the water anytime of day. If you’re lucky you’ll catch the Antique Market that fills up the walkways on some Sundays. It is a treasure trove of pottery, jewelry, vintage designer clothes, and Murano glass—Milanese have impeccable taste for both the old and new.

Work your way from Excelsior’s top floors (slinky Chloé dresses, Balmain leather jackets) to the main floor (watches, speakers, a sea of colorful iPad cases), then down to the subterranean floors for the impressive wine shop and restaurants.

This leather atelier off a leafy boulevard in the Porta Romana district is the epitome of chic. The only way to buy its coveted handbags and accessories, regularly spotted on celebrities, is to visit this white-hued, mirrored store. Designer Roberta Giacobbe crafts understated, heirloom-quality pieces including totes, iPad cases, and men’s carryalls using the finest quality leather. Each one is handmade in her workshop above the boutique. One of the most popular items is the zippered pochette (an envelope-shaped handbag), which can be custom-made in any color.

Bicycle shop Rossignoli has been keeping Milan on two wheels for more than a century. Rossignoli is known for its fashionable cycles, which can be refurbished and reused. Likewise, they keep creativity in motion with new products and avant-garde installations during Salone del Mobile.

As the only hotel inside the city’s famed 19^th-century Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II (the oldest shopping mall in the world), the place is in a league of its own, from the building’s hand-painted vaulted ceilings and original frescoes to touches like grand pianos in the rooms and the racing-green Bentley Continental Flying Spur that whisks guests around the city in style.

There are 24 rooms in total, though the tall ceilings and mezzanine levels make them feel much more like private apartments than rooms. Designer furnishings and high-tech amenities complement the building’s original features and antiques, and guests get their own professional butler-concierge (all languages catered for), a choice of bed linen and pillow type, and as much vintage wine and champagne as they can handle. Personal laptops and shopping trolleys from the best luxury brands are also available on request.