Search results for

The French destroyed this famous temple in 1954, but it was lovingly rebuilt and remains a favorite with locals. The structure commemorates the legend of Emperor Ly Thai Tong who originally built the temple way back in 1049. The distinctive single pillar is meant to signify the stalk of the lotus flower, a sacred Vietnamese symbol of purity.

Why we love it: A condo-style property near Pier 60 that’s perfect for traveling families

The Highlights:
- Spacious, residential-style rooms with kitchenettes
- A kids’ club for children and rooftop cantina for adults
- A prime location steps from the Gulf and Pier 60

The Review:
Steps from the ocean and famous Pier 60 stands the flamingo-pink Hyatt Regency, favored for its friendly, attentive service. A residential-style property, the hotel boasts 287 generously sized rooms and suites, complete with some combination of walk-out balcony, kitchenette, dining table, living area, and workspace. Also on site is a 24-hour gym, a serene spa with sun-warmed shell massages, and a heated pool on the eighth floor overlooking the beach.

Though rooms here cater to those who like to prepare their own meals, the hotel still shines with dining options. Guests can start the day with freshly brewed coffee and pastries from the grab-and-go Market and end it with a handcrafted cocktail at Off SHOR or the Latin-inspired Tropicana Rooftop Cantina (order your drink in a souvenir glass and it will come in a coconut carved into a monkey’s head). For dinner, there’s SHOR American Seafood Grill, which boasts a spacious patio and regional seafood dishes like whole local snapper and line-caught Florida swordfish.

Sometimes Caribbean travel is about more than just a cold drink and a beach. It takes driving as far as possible (only about 40 minutes) from the tourists on the east side of the island in Nassau to find this moving piece of art, appropriately titled, “Sacred Space.” Located only a few hundred yards from the ruins of old slave quarters, and just above where the slave ships used to dock, these faceless carvings silently stare back across the ocean toward Africa. Trees that typically erode the coastline were cut down to create these powerful pillars that are still rooted in the ground.

Masullo Pizza is my idea of the perfect pizza place in the U.S.—the servers are friendly, the interior is stylish, the food honors what is local and seasonal, and the pizza is outstanding. Robert Masullo, the owner, takes pizza seriously, using a combination of expert technique and carefully picked ingredients to create beautifully simple and delicious pizzas. Greatness continues with the rest of the menu: the appetizers, salads (which change with what’s in season—I was once told that the oranges were from his friend’s tree), desserts, and selection of local wines and beers. Their freshly baked bread (shown above) is sold at nearby Taylor’s Market. I have loved Masullo since it opened about 5 years ago. Then again, I love just about anything from Italy—especially authentic Italian pizza. Masullo Pizza is located in the cute Land Park neighborhood just south of downtown. Outdoor seating is available. Open all day 11:30-9:00 on weekdays (until 9:30 Fridays) and 5:00-9:30 on Saturdays. Closed Sundays.

When I want to experience nature and get away from the city, I head to Davis, just 20 minutes from Sacramento. Davis is home to University of California at Davis and the university’s 100-acre arboretum. I love walking the winding paths of the arboretum and wondering what interesting plants are waiting around the next turn. Some of my personal favorites are the huge collection of California oaks at the far end of the arboretum, the lake, the desert collection, and the redwood grove. Pack a lunch to eat at the picnic tables or on the grass around the lake. The 3.5-mile loop through the arboretum may be too long for a quick visit, but maps are available for you to choose which areas interest you, or you can join a guided tour. Maps and a tour schedule are available on the website (link below). They are also available at the arboretum headquarters, open 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Landing in heat-soaked Kuala Lumpur after being on the road for 24 hours can be disorienting. Incessant chanting (“vei vel shakti vel”), monkeys screeching, wafting incense, a glorious moon, and a million people.


Thaipusam falls on a full moon and is the celebration in remembrance of Lord Murugan (his statue pictured at the base of the steep 272 steps to the Waterfall Temple at Batu Caves - the top being the best view) who received the “vel” (sacred spear) from his mother, Shiva’s wife, to kill three demons. Killing internal demons seems to be the order of the day for devotees.


The festivities begin with a chariot bearing the statue of Lord Murugan being drawn through the streets starting from Sri Maha Mariamman Temple and then on the second day (when I arrived), the fulfilling of the vows by devotees takes place at the Batu Caves after people walk barefoot approximately 15 kilometers starting in the middle of the night from Kuala Lumpur. The chariot returns to the Temple on the third day.


The real highlight is watching devotees with huge decorated frames (“kavadi”= burden”) supported by spikes that pierce their chests and backs as penance for answered prayers. As one devotee said to me, “Life is an act of gratitude and this is the ultimate day of gratitude to our deities.” I felt a deep empathy for the intense devotion and commitment of the Tamil Hindus I witnessed. This is truly one of the world’s great festivals of purification and atonement.

Hit the trails at the Cave Creek hiking area, about 30 miles north of town in the Tonto National Forest, to see the rare crested saguaro cactus in its fantastic fan shapes. Trail number 4 meanders alongside Cave Creek for most of the 10-mile trek, providing many opportunities to dip your toes. The trailhead is located off Forest Road 24, (480) 595-3300. This appeared in the January/February 2013 issue. Illustration by Michael Hoeweler.

An interestingly curated museum, the Forest of Stone Steles Museum (also called the Steles Forest or Beilin Museum) focuses on displays of steles (commemorative slabs), epigraphs, and stone sculptures from throughout history. The museum’s collection of inscribed tablets offers a unique window into ancient ways of life. Located inside the Wenchang Gate of the Xian City Wall, the museum was constructed similarly to Xian’s Confucian Temple, which dates to 1087.

The Black Forest, Schwardzwald in German, is a gorgeous pine-wooded mountain range in Baden-Württemberg with a number of historic towns. If the numerous Michelin star restaurants in this area (think black forest ham and black forest cake) aren’t enough to get you there, the numerous long footpaths will. The region includes part of the E1 European long-distance footpath, which passes through neighboring countries and always has plans for expansion. Its highest peak is the Feldberg, at 4,898 ft. But this area is not just for long trekkers, a variety of short walks are possible too. Stop in towns like Freiburg and Calw, and Gengenbach. Don’t miss the All Saints and Triberg waterfalls.

Forget any notions you have about boring vanilla, chocolate, and strawberry milkshakes. At Holsteins in The Cosmopolitan, milkshakes are given an innovative twist, and many of them have a spirited, high-proof kick. At its roots, this is a diner-style eatery, so the menu consists of burgers and finger-friendly sandwiches, but none of these meals is made complete without a funky cool treat. Among the favorites on the menu are Drunken Monkey, Frozen Grasshopper, Black Cow Float and Cereal Bowl. If a shake doesn’t sound appealing, an incredibly extensive beer, wine and cocktail list is available.

What do Al Capone and Bruce Willis have in common? They both did time here at Eastern State Penitentiary. (OK, Willis wasn’t an inmate, but he did shoot the film 12 Monkeys here.) The facility’s first inmate was brought through these doors in 1829, and the prison was in use until 1971. After closing, it became a target for vandals and housed a sizable colony of stray cats. Real estate developers proposed repurposing it as condominiums (high-security, of course), but preservationists won out. They raised funds to stabilize the crumbling interior and remove trees that were growing inside some cells. Wander through its stark interior and learn about the fascinating history of this unique site and its previous tenants, including Capone. Don’t miss the special art installations that are on display here all year round.

The 1950s facade of The Laurel Inn reveals that this property—now a Joie de Vivre Hotel—has been part of San Francisco‘s Pacific Heights neighborhood for many decades. But a multimillion dollar renovation in 2017 refreshed the boutique hotel’s 49 guest rooms, while keeping the retro charm intact with midcentury modern furniture and rich velvet and wool textiles. Located within a few blocks of the Presidio and mere steps from the shops and restaurants of Sacramento Street, many of the spacious rooms have been designed with kitchenettes to add to the residential feel of the hotel. Ask for a room with a city view—watching the fog roll in over Pacific Heights and the downtown skyscrapers beyond that each morning from bed is an experience not to be missed.

Named after the great author from Hannibal, Missouri, Mark Twain National Forest sprawls for more than 1.5 million acres in the Ozark Highlands. The only national forest in Missouri, it’s a treasure trove of outdoor adventure, with 750 miles of trails for hiking, mountain biking, and horseback riding; 350 miles of perennial streams for canoeing, kayaking, and floating; several caves for exploring; and more than 35 campgrounds and picnic areas for relaxing in between activities. The Eleven Point National Scenic River is a particularly lovely area of the park, snaking through the Ozark hills along an underdeveloped, ruggedly beautiful shoreline.

On the shoulders of Bali’s most sacred mountain is perched its Mother Temple, Pura Besakih, a complex of 23 sacred buildings. Several times annually, pilgrims flock here from around the island—on the backs of motorbikes, in buses and bemos, even crowded together, standing-room only, in the beds of trucks—to make offerings at the several clan temples (each family is part of a clan represented here) and at the largest and most important temple, Pura Penataran Agung, tiered and built into the mountain’s slope. Make sure to climb to the impressive second courtyard, which is as far as tourists are generally allowed to go. The complex is most alive during frequent festivals, when thousands descend, ceremonially dressed, and flow throughout the temple grounds. When the sky is clear, you can see from here down into the valley and out to sea.

Paris has the Sacré-Coeur, on top of Montmartre, for catch-your-breath views of the city. Zurich’s answer: the terrace at ETH Zurich. Also known as the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology Zurich and where Einstein was an alum, it lords high above the city for prime views beyond to the lake, the Uetliberg, and the Alps. The bQm café and bar lets you pair that stellar view with a drink.