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A weekend in Marrakech offers just enough time to take in the Red City’s gardens, the medina, and to tumble through the city’s souks and boutiques, your arms filled with purchases. Of course, the food: from traditional Moroccan dishes to European-inspired meals, and plenty of local red wine. Don’t miss a night of food stalls and snake charmers at Djemma el Fna. Tempting as it may be to stay put in Marrakech’s oldest section for the weekend, leave the medina to tour the stunning gardens French painter Jacques Majorelle left behind, and the museum dedicated to legendary fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent. And do go to a hammam on day one because, really, you’ll quickly see why it should be your daily habit while in town.

Dar Roumana is widely celebrated as having the best restaurant in Fes, and with good reason. Its charming courtyard dining room—decorated with cream-colored upholstery and tropical plants that complement the building’s original hand-cut zellij tiles, carved plaster, and painted-wood ceilings—is also rave-worthy. Arrive early enough to sip its signature pomegranate fizz from the crow’s nest, then settle in to indulge in a menu that fuses the flavors of Morocco with the finesse of classical French cuisine. Perennial favorites are the roast pumpkin salad with goat cheese, chilies, and coriander; braised local rabbit in mustard; and an elegant, bitter chocolate tart that could cause even the bistros of Paris to bristle with envy. Top tip: For a romantic winter meal, reserve the table by the fireplace.

We spent the night in this Bedoin tent in the Sahara near Erfoud, Morocco. The sand is this color, orange. The desert was actually wet in April, the night was cold and clear. The stars were amazing. Recommended. Many tour companies can arrange an overnight in the desert, either in a hotel at the edge of the dunes or in a private tented encampment.

I looked at shoes at every souk in every medina in every city and town in Morocco, but ... unfortunately, their sizing did not cover my apparently giant feet. Oh well. I still enjoyed the looking!

When on the road in south or southwestern Morocco, you may notice a tourist bus that has pulled over and discharged a busload of passengers to run dashing through the trees with their cameras. What might be happening? The answer is simple: tree-climbing goats! Let me explain the trees first -- A huge cottage/co-op industry in Morocco is the production of argan oil, derived from the seed kernel of the fruit of the argan tree, endemic to Morocco. The argan tree grows wild in semi-desert soil and is extremely well adapted to drought and other difficult growing conditions of the region. The species Argania once covered much of North Africa but is now endangered and under protection of UNESCO. Argan oil is valued for its nutritional, cosmetic and medicinal properties, and could be considered one of the rarest oils in the world due the very small growing region. OK, now I’ll explain the goats. Goats love the fruit of these trees so much that they use their climbing ability to get far up into the trees to eat the fruit. Prior to the adoption of modern processing methods, argan oil was once produced by collecting the undigested kernels passed by the goats (sorry, just had to mention that!). Be sure to shop for some of the wonderfully rich lotions and creams made from argan oil; and look for handcrafted soap as well.

Dried fruits, nuts and more at Djemaa el Fna, I didn’t know what most of the items were but was sure to try 90% of them and everything was delicious. Moroccan food is amazing but only when eaten in Morocco!

The gallery, boutique, and tearooms of Morocco’s most famous living artist, Hassan Hajjaj, is an essential stop for any art lovers staying in the city. Tucked away down a narrow alley behind the Rahba Lakdima (otherwise known as the Place des Épices), it’s like stumbling into a jewel box filled with pop-art treasures. Hajjaj made a name for himself with a series of photographs titled Kech Angels, which depicted local girls on mopeds dressed in eye-popping robes. The collection has been exhibited all over the world in such illustrious venues as the Victoria and Albert Museum in London and the Institut des Cultures d’Islam in Paris, but nowhere beats enjoying the work on home turf. While you’re there, treat yourself to his iconic recycled home and fashion pieces, such as a sardine-can lantern, a pair of babouches (Moroccan slippers) cut from a flour sack, or a stool from an oil drum. And if you hang around for a pot of mint tea in the courtyard, you might even meet the man himself.

Though less decadent than some of the medina’s more storied hotels, Riad Ahlam offers charm in spades at budget-friendly rates. With its trickling fountain and potted citrus trees, an elegant central courtyard is the setting for highly Instagrammable daily breakfasts brimming with homemade pastries and breads, fresh fruit and juices, sweet jams, and aromatic coffee; lunch and dinner highlight typical Fassi fare such as spiced tagines and vegetable couscous. Guests seeking pampering can indulge in a massage on-site, then retreat to one of eight rooms featuring colorful local textiles, traditional Moroccan lamps and lanterns, and brightly hued bathrooms with mosaic-tiled showers and shiny copper sinks. There’s also a scenic rooftop terrace, a prime perch for a cup of mint tea with a view.

Once a grand harem, this luxurious riad in the medina’s Andalusian Quarter is as enigmatic as its past. Interiors are peppered with worldly artifacts and contemporary furnishings, but all blend harmoniously with traditional handwoven rugs, bejmat tiles, and ornate lanterns. Seven lavishly chic suites are equally full of character: vintage Moroccan wedding shawls and antique Berber wardrobes offset modern amenities like high-end organic toiletries, walk-in rain showers and sunken stone tubs, and terraces wreathed in rose bushes and lush greenery. No less romantic is the hammam, complete with vaulted ceilings and graceful columns. There are also plenty of charming corners to settle into with a mint tea and homemade pastries, be it in the serene library courtyard, the umbrella-dotted rooftop lounge, or the hotel’s elegant crystal-chandeliered restaurant.

An oasis from the manic bustle of the medina, Riad Alya feels like a secret hideaway, one that teems with the icons of Moroccan architecture—think zellige mosaics, arabesques, and stately arches. The jewel box–like central courtyard continues the theme with intricate plaster and wood carvings, a babbling fountain, and wrought iron screens on the windows; fragrant orange trees sprout from the tilework and mingle with the scent of the mint tea that appears on a constant rotation throughout the day. It’s a tranquil place to while away the time before hitting the labyrinthine alleys outside, as is the rooftop terrace, which offers commanding views of the city and distant mountains. If the streets seem more chaotic than comforting, guests can recreate local flavors by way of a two-hour cooking class in the former residence’s kitchen.

You’ll feel like royalty from the moment you touch down at the 19th-century Palais Sheherazade, a traditional Moroccan palace with zellige tiling, sculpted plaster, and stained glass. A massive courtyard patio lies at the hotel’s heart, with a pool bordered by 100-year-old palm trees, Andalusian-style greenery, and elegant black-and-white seating from the adjacent restaurant, where you can sip mint tea from etched-glass cups as the scent of jasmine wafts through the air. The 24 chandeliered suites are regal in size and decor, bedecked in sumptuous textiles, handpainted cedarwood ceilings, and gleaming copper sink basins. But the true star here is the Anne Sémonin spa, a palace unto itself with an array of decadent rooms, an Aquatonic pool, and a traditional hammam.

Marrakesh’s spice shops know how to attract custom – colourful pyramids of spices and herbs are proudly displayed outside to entice the shopper. If you want to take home a taste of Morocco, these are the places to come to. Ask for ras el hanout (‘top of the shop’, a special blend of up to several dozen spices) that gives Moroccan cuisine its distinctive twist. Every shop and kitchen has its own particular blend, but cumin, cinnamon, allspice and cloves are all essential ingredients. Moroccan saffron is also an excellent buy. Many spice shops double up as apothecaries. Herbs, bark, mineral and infusions are all offered to cure anything from headaches and skin complaints to impotency – a truly spicy offering.

Surely one of the most extraordinary imperial relics of Morocco, the Palais Bahia (“the brilliant”) doesn’t disappoint. Built at the start of the 19th century by architect El Mekki for Si Moussa, the then chamberlain of Sultan Hassan I, the palace showcases a wide range of architectural styles hinting at the chamberlain’s playful spirit, especially after his son inherited it and added his own brand of flamboyant glamour to the place. Women’s quarters bedecked with crimson-and-mustard–striped ceilings, a marble-tile courtyard the size of a soccer field, and extensive salons lined by stained-glass windows are just some of the features of the 20-acre space. In 1912, General Lyautey, the governor of French protectorate Morocco, moved in and added creature comforts such as fireplaces and central heating. In so doing, he attracted a number of illustrious guests, among them the writer Edith Wharton. She described the palace this way: “They came, they built the Bahia, and it remains the loveliest and most fantastic of Moroccan palaces. Court within court, garden beyond garden, reception halls, private apartments, slaves’ quarters, sunny prophets’ chambers on the roofs, and baths in vaulted crypts, the labyrinth of passages and rooms stretches away over several acres of ground.” Follow Wharton’s lead and don’t miss it.

Commissioned in 2006 by Morocco’s King Mohammed VI, Royal Mansour is like a medina within the city’s Medina. Fifty-three private riads, each three stories high, feel like mini-palaces, with open-air courtyards and on-call butlers. Every detail is an homage to Moroccan craftsmanship, down to the gorgeous zellige ceramic tiles, intricately carved woods, and molded plasterwork created by local artisans.


From April onward, access to a pool is essential to your enjoyment of Marrakech—and canny entrepreneurs have ensured there’s something for every budget. The city has some mega-luxury treats within walking distance of the medina, like the poolside pavilions at the Royal Mansour’s Le Jardin and the pool that launched a thousand photo shoots at La Mamounia. Expect to spend upward of $80 just to get in. There are also plenty of accessibly priced options a little out of town. The top of our list are the ultra-deep, black-tiled, 115-foot long twin pools at the Beldi country club, where $40 gets you a pool pass, a sun lounger beneath the olive trees, and a slap-up barbecue lunch. It gets busy, though, so if you’re after something a little more serene, book a car to take you out to the Jnane Tamsna in the middle of the Palmeraie, where gloriously scented gardens and five serene turquoise pools are hidden away among the date palms. Pool access, including a three-course lunch that fuses Moroccan Mediterranean with more fiery Senegalese flavors, is about the same price. Out at the Fellah Hotel, up-close views of the mighty Atlas Mountains can be soaked up from a shabby-chic poolside terrace over lunch (not included) while rubbing shoulders with the foundation’s artists in residence. Pool access costs $22.

Simple pleasures abound at this charming riad, where a greenery-fringed central courtyard is soundtracked by a babbling fountain; the panoramic rooftop terraces are dotted with potted palms and cabana-style seating; and an atmospheric bar and dining room doles out Fassi fare like couscous, pastilla, and a variety of tagines (though guests can opt for a cooking class instead). It’s all cloaked in a traditional Moroccan aesthetic, rich in color and bedecked in zellige tilework, handwoven rugs, ornately carved wood, and moody lanterns. The seven jewel-hued guest rooms, each a different color, have modern conveniences like flat-screen TVs in gilded frames, minibars, and free Wi-Fi, while decadently appointed suites maximize living space. Not that you’ll be in them for long: The concierge can arrange for a guide to help you navigate the medina’s mazelike alleys, which sit right outside the hotel’s door.