Search results for

Overview

Overview

Overview

Overview

Overview

An aspiring bluegrass fiddler from London discovers much more than music on a trip to North Carolina.

Charlotte Amalie is the capital of St. Thomas, and Frenchtown is a settlement just to the west of the capital. The name St. Thomas is rooted in the Dutch word Taphus, meaning “beer halls”—stemming from this once notorious port’s reputation as a lair for pirates and scoundrels. The name still fits these days, albeit not so scandalously, in Charlotte Amalie.

One look at this hilltop fort, perched over the Port of Kingstown, and you know the British built it to fight the locals rather than to meet any threats coming by sea—all the cannons face the island’s rugged interior, where the Caribs lived. Inside the fort, you’ll find a series of murals depicting the bloody Carib wars. Kids will love exploring the old buildings, and everyone will enjoy the views.

A year ago I had dinner at the Clifton, then under the supervision of Tucker Yoder. Mr. Yoder was elsewhere that evening, but I spent several hours at the “chef’s counter” in the kitchen, watching executive sous-chef Jarad Adams work his own delicious magic. Naturally Mr. Adams was meticulous with his food prep, but he was also surprisingly generous with his time for me. Imagine my delight when I returned this year to find Mr. Adams had been promoted to Executive Chef. On this visit, Mr. Adams’s tasting menu showed the same attention to detail as I remembered, but with a greater sense of adventure — even whimsy. From the amuse bouche (a spoonful of polenta topped with pork belly, apple, and a sprig of fennel) all the way through to the sticky toffee pudding with candied pecans, dates, and caramel ice cream for dessert, I was enchanted. The tasting menu consists of four courses and varies by the season. My first course was a toss-up between the butternut squash and apple soup and the shaved winter vegetable salad with hazelnuts, black cocoa, and a buttermilk dressing. I had no regrets about my choice of the salad, especially as butternut squash was the foundation of my next course: the most perfectly seared sea scallop I can remember. From there it was onto monkfish with beluga lentils, with Brussels sprout leaves dancing on top. Mr. Adams knows what he’s doing in the kitchen, and the Clifton — and Charlottesville — is lucky to have him.

The Pigalle neighborhood’s past comes alive in Hôtel Rochechouart, a 106-room property on the boulevard Marguerite de Rochechouart, itself a late-night destination and a 1920s hot spot for musicians, intellectuals, and artists. The hotel’s design by Charlotte de Tonnac and Hugo Sauzay of Festen Architecture builds off of that legacy; restored details include the blue mosaic floor in the restaurant and the glass elevator. The modern-feeling guest rooms are done up in a moody, autumnal color palette and feature Old World decorative details like burl-wood headboards, curvaceous armchairs, and alabaster suspension lamps.

The Iris Inn, a luxury Shenandoah bed and breakfast, is the perfect base to explore Virginia’s Blue Ridge mountains. Located 30 minutes from Charlottesville, the Inn is close to nearly 30 wineries and is within a few minutes drive to the southern entrance of Shenandoah National Park. Owners Dave and Heidi Lanford warmly welcome visitors to their cozy mountainside inn with gourmet breakfasts and a complimentary nightly happy hour. The eco-friendly B&B also offers an electric vehicle charging station.

Locals consider La Soufrière—St. Vincent’s massive active volcano that last erupted in 1979—the “queen of climbs.” Approachable from either the leeward or windward coast, the hike to the 4,000-foot summit is a serious, all-day excursion. You’ll need stamina and sturdy shoes—and a knowledgeable guide from the National Parks Authority—to safely reach the top, but once there you’ll enjoy breathtaking views of the surrounding landscape and sea. Keep your eyes peeled for a rare sighting of the St. Vincent parrot on the way back down.

No need to jet to France for French bistro fare—holding court a stone’s throw from the famed 9th street Italian market, French husband-and-wife duo Charlotte and Pierre Calmels (formerly of Le Bec Fin fame) regale locals at Bibou with a masterful, market-driven menu that changes at the chef’s whim. A must on any visit to the City of Brotherly Love!

Bauhaus—the German design, crafts, and architecture school founded in 1919 by Walter Gropius—is one of the most famous design movements of the 20th century, and this Berlin museum shows its impressive breadth and influence. Designed by Gropius himself and completed in 1979, the building holds a wealth of Bauhaus items such as furniture (lamps, chairs, tables), ceramics, photography, and theater pieces by an array of the movement’s most famous teachers and practitioners, including Gropius, Johannes Itten, Paul Klee, Lyonel Feininger, Wassily Kandinsky, László Moholy-Nagy, and Ludwig Mies van der Rohe. (Note: The museum is temporarily located in the Charlottenburg district while the main building is being renovated and extended to pay tribute to the movement’s centennial.)

Because it’s a major cruise port there are plenty of tacky restaurants on St. Thomas, but it doesn’t take a lot of effort to get under the skin of the island and find places where the locals eat. One such restaurant, Gladys’ Cafe, serves up traditional Caribbean fare and is known as one of the best on the island. Skip the a la carte menu and instead get one of the lunch plates including curried chicken or goat served with red beans and rice, mac and cheese and fried plantains.