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Situated along the bustling, tree-lined avenues of Gangnam, Hotel La Casa is a concept hotel created by one of Korea’s most popular lifestyle and furniture stores, Casa Mia. Known for clean lines and modern touches, the brand is the South Korean equivalent of Ikea. The welcoming lobby is decorated like a cozy study with book-lined walls, plush couches, and picture windows. The 61 rooms of Casa Mia’s flagship design hotel, which opened in 2011, look like pages of a catalog come to life. Rich wood, ample white space with pops of color, and kitschy decor items are meant to make guests feel right at home. Love your pillowcase, the bath towels, or the cute alarm clock next to your bed? The first three levels of the hotel are a massive Casa Mia retail store where guests can purchase items found in their rooms.

Standing tall in Gangnam—one of Seoul’s most exclusive neighborhoods—is the glass-encased structure that is the Park Hyatt. The hotel’s east-meets-west atmosphere was created by the Japanese design firm Super Potato, using elements of wood, stone, steel, and natural light to create a simple yet elegant space. The natural granite used to construct the bathroom in the Presidential Suite was flown in from China and Japan.

Korean antiques and works by local artists are displayed throughout each floor to help guests immerse themselves in Korean culture during their stay. The best part about the Park Hyatt is where water meets sky at the 24^th-floor infinity pool. The hotel’s concierge recommends a swim at sunset, when the golden light melts away and the lights of the city take their place in Seoul’s skyline.

Seoul’s War Memorial Museum is a massive complex that can easily eat up a history buff’s whole day. The big-ticket items—tanks, planes, missiles—are outside; inside is a complete history of military actions in Korea. One really cool thing is a replica of Admiral Sun-shin’s “turtle warships,” ironclad fighting boats used in the 16th century. The bulk of the place is taken up with the Korean War, with tons of films and photos that can get a little overwhelming for the unprepared. Korea was a suburb of hell from 1950 to 1953, and no punches are pulled here in showing just what it was like. It might be best to head for a park after your visit, to decompress and remember that it’s always business as usual for the trees.

Starwood’s W Hotel chain is known for its contemporary style and design, and the W Seoul-Walkerhill is no exception. Set against the picturesque backdrop of Mt. Achasan—a popular hiking destination in the area—and overlooking the Han River, the hotel is located in a peaceful location rather than amid the chaos of downtown Seoul. Opened in 2004, the W Seoul-Walkerhill has earned a reputation among trendsetting locals for hosting some of the city’s best events. Fashion shows, DJ parties, and design fairs are just a smattering of the happenings you can expect to experience during your stay. The hotel’s futuristic Woo Bar has been featured on countless Korean television dramas, and it’s a popular place for young celebrities to see and be seen. Got a smartphone? Use it to check in upon arrival, and throughout your stay as your room key.

The COEX Complex in Gangnam is more than just a mall, convention center, and exhibition hall. It’s a few city blocks filled with cool buildings that will thrill those who have a penchant for unique architectural design. Perhaps the most iconic of the buildings in the COEX complex is the 54-story Seoul World Trade Tower. Used as a backdrop in the Gangnam Style music video, the tower is unique for its unusual ridged edge. It’s up to you whether to do a reenactment of the galloping dance while standing in front of the building. To get there, take subway line 2, and exit at Samseong (COEX) station.

Pritzker Prize–winning architect Daniel Libeskind found inspiration in wind-filled sails and the waves off Haeundae Beach when he devised the curvilinear geometry of this 269-room hotel. The interior design includes French oak floors, granite bathrooms with soaking tubs, and floor-to-ceiling windows that afford views of the Gwangan Bridge. The biggest draw is the sun-filled spa. Guests can look out at the city from the indoor swimming pool or indulge in treatments that meld Korean and European beauty traditions. Doubles from $250. 51 Marine City 1-ro, Haeundae-gu, 82/(0) 51-990-1234. This appeared in the October 2013 issue.

Seoul’s Janganpyeong Antique Market has more than 150 stores, with everything from furniture to fine art. Antique is sometimes loosely defined, but it’s a good place to look for scroll paintings and calligraphy and lacquerware. Need a man-size stone totem pole? This is the place. It gets a bit overwhelming after a while, but every corner hides a surprise. Near the Dapsimni subway station; most shops are closed Sundays.

Located on Yeouido Island in the middle of the mighty Han River, the Conrad Seoul is a relatively new addition to the South Korean capital’s futuristic skyline. Opened in 2012, the hotel is situated in the bustling Yeouido business district (aka Korean Wall Street). The Conrad is one of four buildings that make up the International Finance Center designed by world-renowned architecture firm Arquitectonica. The firm is praised for its sleek and modern architecture, and Conrad Seoul is no exception. In fact, its asymmetrical design, avant-garde interiors—including a mesmerizing spiral staircase in the lobby—and impeccable service helped the hotel to win a prestigious World Luxury Hotel Award in 2014. Touches of the Far East such as a Korean-style sauna and Asian fusion restaurant add a sense of place to the luxury property, but the international and multilingual staff ensures that guests from every nation feel right at home. Begin your day with a swim in the 82-foot indoor lap pool, and end it with a sunset cocktail as you watch Korea’s capital light up the night sky.

Meaning “a place where one can enjoy the traditions of times past and rest one’s soul,” Rak Ko Jae certainly lives up to its name. Styled after a Chosun Dynasty–era house, the 130-year-old hanok (traditional Korean house) was used by a secret society during the Japanese occupation of Korea before World War II as a place to study and preserve Korean language and culture. In 2003, a master architect, designated by the Korean government as a “Human National Treasure,” renovated the hanok, and now it’s one of the most picturesque places to stay in all of Korea’s capital. Stepping through the gate into the peaceful courtyard feels like going back in time, and the lotus pond, yellow-mud sauna, and traditional Korean cuisine only add to the anachronistic feeling. Guests staying at the small and intimate Rak Ko Jae can take part in many elements of traditional Korean culture such as making kimchi, trying on a hanbok (traditional Korean clothing), or experiencing an afternoon tea ceremony.

Seoul’s City Hall is a swooping mass of glass and steel tucked snugly into the heart of the city at Seoul Plaza. This modern architectural marvel stands out starkly behind the small stone building of the Seoul Metropolitan Library—the building that previously served as city hall since Korea’s liberation from Japan in 1945. The man responsible for the design, Kerl Yoo, has commented that the building is supposed to represent Korean traditions as well as embrace the future. Not sure how exactly the newfangled monstrosity is traditional in any way, but it’s worth taking a stroll around the two structures to see the glaring contrast between old and new. Get there via the City Hall subway station.

The world’s largest indoor amusement park, Lotte World gets more than 7 million visitors annually. Seasonal festivals like the Rio Samba Carnival and the Happy Christmas Party dictate the themes of the daily parades and performances, while tons of rides—both indoors and out—keep guests entertained all day long. Other highlights include mega playgrounds, an ice-skating rink, a monorail, a folk museum, and, of course, lots of shopping. Visit on a weekday when it’s less crowded and lines are shorter, and remember to grab a map at the entrance in order to navigate the multilevel complex.

Open from first light until late in the evening, this relaxed bar, just around the corner from La Piazzetta, has an entirely different vibe from the fancier options there. You can have a quick caffè (espresso) standing at the bar with the locals or sit under the striped awning and watch the sunset over the Bay of Naples while drinking a spritz. This bar also serves as one of the island’s best bakeries. Try a flaky breakfast pastry with a morning cappuccino, then swing by later to order a lemon or chocolate version of the island’s famous dessert torta caprese, a flourless cake.

Palácio Ramalhete has the soul of a historic property—Manuel II, Portugal’s last king, and Britain’s Duke of Windsor were once guests—without any of the attendant stuffiness. Set in an 18th-century palace on the handsome Rua das Janelas Verdes, each of the 16 accommodations has its own unique character. The Oak Suite, for instance, features wood wall paneling with an ornate carved-stucco ceiling, while the spacious Dove Room, which occupies the palace’s former chapel, is lined with original hand-painted blue-and-white azulejos (ceramic tiles).


There are three tiered internal courtyards; the highest has a small heated outdoor pool with a massive palm tree for shade and River Tagus views in the distance. Art lovers, take note: Opposite the hotel is the National Museum of Ancient Art, filled with important Portuguese works that include 15th-century painter Nuno Gonçalves’s famous Panels of St. Vincent.

Well worth the effort it takes to locate this tiny establishment, Flower Gin is a hybrid gin bar and flower shop that feels as though you’ve stumbled into a bygone speakeasy, yet smells like an English country garden. The space is decorated with Alice in Wonderland-esque images, and serves six different cocktails, all created with cucumber-infused Hendrick’s gin. Opt for the classic G&T, or get fancy with an Elderflower Collins or Hot Gun Punch. All are picturesque and served with a delicate pink rose on top. Be sure to say hi to Coco the Boston Terrier, the little mascot that happily greets patrons who are lucky enough make their way in. Kyungnidan 684, Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

Located in southern Seoul at the Sindorim Subway Station is D-Cube City. This retail monolith houses scores of shops and restaurants. There are the ubiquitous H&M, Zara, and Uniqlo, but also trendy Korean labels such as Bean Pole, Codes Combine, and Thursday Island. The food court is especially notable for the traditional Korean food section, where specialties like doenjang jjigae (a soybean stew) and pajeon (a green onion pancake) are served in surroundings meant to resemble a Korean folk village. Be sure to read the many signs and maps posted in English around the mall. My favorite? “D Cube City makes you feel like walking in the woods.” 662, Gyeongin-ro, Guro-gu, Seoul