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Wandering Chef: Eduard Frauneder in Vienna

Overview

Overview

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From centuries-old restaurants and coffeehouses to trendy new bistros, Vienna’s culinary scene is like the city itself—managing to be both classic and cool at once. Whatever your personal style, you won’t want to leave without trying some of its famous desserts, including the legendary Sacher torte.

With just one week, Vienna and Eastern Austria will give travelers a glimpse into the best of the country’s non-Alpine side, including Vienna’s Habsburg palaces and the castles and abbeys of the picturesque Wachau valley. Peer into Eastern Austria’s Gothic, Romanesque, and Baroque cathedrals. Sample your way through Vienna’s open-air Naschmarkt for Austrian-made treats. To round out your week, roam through the lovely Vienna Woods.

Whether you want to stay in a former palace, a stylish spot, or a more affordable option, Vienna has a hotel for every traveler. Many of the best options are also centrally located, putting you within walking distance of the city’s main attractions.

Like most of Europe, mighty fortresses and palaces of all sizes dot Austria’s landscape. Its imperial history has left the country with no shortage of magnificent palaces, and its one-time proximity to the invading Ottomans has left a bounty of castles and fortresses. From the lavish Schönbrunn Palace in Vienna to the medieval fortresses of the Burgenland and beyond, there is plenty to keep history and architecture buffs happy.

Along with Vienna, Salzburg and the Alps are Austria’s top draws and the perfect place to spend the second half of a two week trip. Mozart’s Salzburg is adorned with beautiful gardens, a mighty fortress and great museums. Salzburg is the perfect gateway to the Austrian Alps, dotted with quaint villages like Hallstatt, pristine lakes and Austria’s most well known resorts, including the famous Kitzbühel. Trek through the Alps or just enjoy the views from cities like Salzburg and Innsbruck.

It’s pretty amazing what you can do with some old stables. Vienna’s vast former quarters for the imperial horses, designed by the great baroque architect Johann Bernhard Fischer von Erlach, were turned in recent years into the MuseumsQuartier. It could take days to see all the works in this 15-acre, multi-museum complex that lies just off the Ringstrasse and is devoted to collections of modern and contemporary art. The limestone Leopold Museum for Austrian art is named after an early collector of the bold painter Egon Schiele. Its Café Leopold includes courtyard seating under umbrellas. For your Picassos and Giacomettis, the nearby MUMOK specializes in the giants of modern art. The MuseumsQuartier’s huge courtyard is a popular Vienna hangout where many festivals take place and DJs spin on weekends.

Classic-film buffs well know the pivotal scene on the Riesenrad, the giant Ferris wheel in Vienna’s Prater park which lies between the Danube and one of its side canals. In the film version of Graham Greene’s noir tale The Third Man, Orson Welles, as Harry Lime, relates his famous Swiss cuckoo clock analogy to Joseph Cotten while on the ride. Built in 1897 for Emperor Franz Joseph I’s golden jubilee, the Ferris wheel was for a long time the world’s tallest. After a period of scruffiness late last century, the Prater and its old-fashioned amusement park are again popular. The greenery alone makes for wonderful strolling or biking, with the Schweizerhaus restaurant’s beer garden the perfect place for schnitzel or succulent Schweinsstelze (pig’s feet).

As rivalries go, this one is up there with Coke vs. Pepsi. Which of these two cultural institutions’ pastry chefs make the best version of Vienna’s famous Sacher torte? The Hotel Sacher is a historic property and, by legal right, has been recognized as the original home of the classic dessert. But a few blocks away on posh Kohlmarkt street, just steps from the Hofburg Palace, the pastry shop Demel proudly still carries the official title of royal confectioner. Both houses ship this spongy chocolate cake, covered with chocolate icing and layered with apricot jam, all over the world. But nothing beats tasting the sweet treat right there in old Vienna.

Just off the Ringstrasse, the Stadtpark gives visitors to Vienna a chance to marvel at the genius of Otto Wagner: The architect’s art nouveau U-Bahn metro station is a landmark there. With the little Wienfluss (Vienna River) running through it, the 28-acre, English-style, manicured Stadtpark was laid out in the middle 19th century and is perhaps the finest city park in this greenest of cities. For maintaining the historic fountains, ornamental plants, and decorative trees along its winding paths, the botanical specialists and gardening team deserve a tip of the hat. Fine statues of composers Franz Schubert and Anton Bruckner, as well as a gilded-bronze likeness of a violin-playing Johann Strauss II—who performed here—are famous. The café in the Italianate Kursalon Hübner concert hall is a good place for a break from sightseeing.