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Hobart’s most famous cobblestoned square was once known for whalers and sailors. Today, it’s inhabited by artists and food purveyors, who mix and mingle every Saturday at the Salamanca Market—the largest outdoor market in Australia, which boasts some 300 food and craft vendors. Sample locally produced cheeses, chocolates, and jams; browse jewelry, ceramics, photography, wool scarves, and bowls hand-hewn from local Huon pine; or do your organic grocery shopping for the trip. Also on this blessed square is the Salamanca Arts Centre, a collection of 1830s Georgian sandstone warehouses converted into more than a dozen galleries and performance spaces. Look for timeless tunics and capes by designer Leonie Struthers at The Maker, and some of Australia’s best cheeses at the Bruny Island Cheese Co.

Travelers seeking spacious accommodations in buzzy South Yarra would be wise to choose this MGallery by Sofitel property on shop-lined Chapel Street. The smallest of its 111 guest rooms start at a roomy 410 square feet and feature plush king beds, black-marble bathrooms, and smart TVs, while its largest split-level suites are nearly quadruple in size—one has its own private spa bath and sauna, while another houses a dining table for 10 and a baby grand piano in the living room. The interiors scream personality, with a bold color palette of hot pink, turquoise, and lime green and decorative elements like gray-and-black leaf decals. After a day spent shopping in the nearby boutiques, unwind in the gym and sauna, then chill out in one of the plush lounge chairs on the seasonal rooftop deck or around the indoor pool, which is covered in a retractable glass roof that opens during warm weather.

This J-shaped peninsula southeast of Hobart is home to natural, historic, and man-made surprises. The Three Capes Track is an awe-inspiring way to take in the landscape, home to Australia’s tallest sea cliffs; Shipstern Bluff (“Shippy’s” and “Devil’s Point” to locals), known for giant waves and shark encounters; and the Totem Pole and the Candlestick, two dolerite sea stacks popular among crazy rock climbers and rappellers. Port Arthur is Tasmania’s most famous convict site, and a variety of tours—including a lantern-lit ghost tour—are designed for families. Before you leave, toast the trip of a lifetime at McHenry Distillery, one of the world’s most southern distilleries, with a sloe gin made from locally foraged berries.

Set smack bang on the beach at Canggu’s Batu Bolong surf spot, Old Man’s is where surfers rinse off the salt and head in for a beer and a bite to eat. The beer garden’s open and airy atmosphere is enhanced by strings of lights and awesome murals by Australian artist Lucas Grogan. You really can’t go wrong at Old Man’s: Prices are affordable, it’s family- and dog-friendly, and the sunset is spectacular. Drop by and see what the hype is about.

Cicada Lodge is run by the native Jawoyn people and is the only luxury accommodation in Australia’s awe-inspiring Nitmiluk National Park, roughly four and a half hours from Darwin. The word Nitmiluk (pronounced nit-me-look) means “cicada place” and refers to an Aboriginal creation myth where a Jawoyn man hears the sound of cicadas from deep within a gorge. That’s only the beginning of the indigenous influence here. Aboriginal dot paintings hang on bedroom walls; unheard-of ingredients flavor the foods; and indigenous stories and traditions enliven tours that local guides lead throughout the park’s 13 gorges. The wood-paneled restaurant and pool deck, connected by glass doors, form the centerpiece of the lodge. They serve as the communal gathering place for meals, sunset drinks, and leisurely downtime. In 2014, the lodge won the prestigious Gold Plate award for its modern twist on “bush tucker” (indigenous food).

One of Australia’s most acclaimed restaurants happens to be in Hobart, where chef Analiese Gregory plays with local, foraged, and homegrown ingredients in her daily-changing menu. One night, you might find burrata curd tossed with saltbush and fermented Jerusalem artichoke. Another, it’ll be licorice-seasoned lamb ribs, grilled for everyone to see in the 10-tonne Scotch oven, which emits the smell of burnt honey. The modern concrete dining room, housed in a 1923 Ford showroom next to the old Mercury newspaper offices (reimagined as the Press Hall), is outfitted with blond wood tables and animal-hide rugs. House-made wines and tangy desserts—perhaps strawberry gum milk sorbet scooped over rhubarb and damson plum sauce—add to the fun.

This unusual contemporary art museum is located in a series of dimly lit caverns and tunnels built into the side of a cliff in Berriedale, a Hobart suburb. Inside, mind-bending installations include a stinky model of the human digestive system that poops daily at 2 p.m. Founder David Walsh, a professional gambler turned art maverick, displays more than 400 edgy works from his private collection. The new Pharos wing that debuted in late 2017 is heavy on light spaces by James Turrell. MONA also stages two standout annual festivals: Mona Foma (which stands for Festival of Music and Art, sometimes further shortened to Mofo) in January, curated by Brian Ritchie of the rock band Violent Femmes, and Dark Mofo, the disturbing winter version held in June.

Check your traditional hotel notions at the door of this Russell Street lodging. At QT Melbourne, guests are greeted on arrival by cheery Directors of Chaos, who sport the same black wigs, heavy makeup, and bold black-and-white outfits, but the lobby itself makes an equally striking first impression: old-school French hip-hop competes for attention with colorful video installations, a giant stuffed peacock, and a towering wall of 1,700 recycled books. Upstairs, the 188 rooms give off an industrial-chic vibe with concrete-slab ceilings, timber flooring, and bathrooms set behind sliding partitions of aluminum-framed glass.


The hotel’s seemingly never-ending food and drink offerings include the Pascale Bar & Grill, where French bistro influences combine with produce farmed on the rooftop garden; Hot Sauce, for Asian-accented bar food (think steamed baos stuffed with fried chicken and kimchi); and the Cake Shop, for warm pain au chocolat in the morning, plus an array of pastries, cakes, and snacks throughout the day. Families with young children will appreciate the complimentary travel cots and babysitting services (arranged with advance notice).

Nestled on a side street off Telok Ayer in Chinatown, this unassuming 40-seat restaurant with exposed-brick walls and funky local art earned a Michelin star in 2017 for its creative and very modern Australian fare. The ethos is simple: straightforward ingredients and surprising presentation. Take the signature Duck & Waffles—confit duck smothered in a spicy caramel sauce on top of crispy waffles. The wild venison with wasabi and zucchini is something wonderfully different, and so is the cuttlefish roasted pigeon. Beets with goat cheese, barramundi with leeks, and funky desserts like coconut with laksa-leaf ice cream make an indelible impression on foodies who think (and eat) outside the box.

Melbourne saw a huge influx of Chinese immigrants during the 1850s gold rush, and the city’s fascinating Chinatown, located on Little Bourke Street and the surrounding lanes and alleyways, is a buzzing area of restaurants, noodle shops, stores and bars. Lunch at the excellent Hutong dumpling bar (14-16 Market Lane)—or try to snag a table at popular Cantonese fine-dining spot Flower Drum across the street—then visit the Museum of Chinese History (22 Cohen Place) to learn the story of the Chinese community of Australia.

Specializing in fine art, this bright, beautiful gallery shows works that range from Shirley Marais’s playful ceramics to the misty, impressionistic beach paintings of David Chen. Standouts include the exuberant mixed-media pieces of Australian artist Anthony Breslin. He often mounts objects like darts, pencil sharpeners and toothpaste tubes onto his cartoony canvases, which are a hit with kids and collectors alike.

Nearly hidden behind a tall row of hedges is Delano South Beach, a landmarked hotel built in 1947 and renovated by Ian Schrager and Philippe Starck in 1995. Schrager and Starck wanted Delano to feel like a home; to that end, Starck created a series of discrete “living spaces,” with mismatched furniture, in the hotel’s common areas. Each of the spaces is intended to evoke specific images and experiences from his childhood, such as a wall of nightlights. The Delano’s backyard and pool area are an extension of the lobby’s “living room,” and that’s why a table and two chairs sit in a shallow section of the pool, and why the hotel’s veranda features the kind of comfortable furniture usually found inside a building, rather than outside it. In rooms, guests will find oversized marble bathtubs, said to be a favorite among NBA players because of their seven-foot length, along with Malin + Goetz toiletries.

No hotel in Jamaica blends better with its surroundings than the aptly named Rockhouse, a string of villas clinging to the top of a sea cliff at the western tip of the island. Local stone, timber, and thatch are the building materials, and a harmony of design and setting is the result. The feel is rustic, but not rough (the showers might be outdoors, but the rooms are air-conditioned), and the feeling carries over to the pool, which sits on a rock platform halfway down the cliff face, from where sunbathers can don snorkel and mask and clamber down into a usually calm Caribbean. Even the restaurant hangs over the water, adding emphasis to the promise of dishes being fresh from the sea.

As does practically every hotel in Jamaica, Rockhouse has its celebrity stories, going back to the early ‘70s when Bob Marley, Bob Dylan, and the Rolling Stones added their names to the guest register. But it wasn’t until 1994, when a group of Australian owners took over, that Rockhouse began to evolve its reputation as one of the most Jamaican of Jamaican hotels. It happened in part because Rockhouse has none of the formality that some of the island’s best-known hotels, with their British colonial roots, still possess. And in part because of its active role in funding local education projects, it’s a valued, and popular, part of the community. That, and the restaurant’s homemade jerk sausage is legendary.

In addition to providing a peaceful green space, this remarkable terraced garden near the Ponte Vecchio offers terrific views of the city. Its scale—much smaller than that of the Boboli Gardens—gives it a more intimate feel. In spite of its size, it includes an incredible diversity of garden styles. Climb the grand central staircase and wander from woodlands to an Anglo-Chinese garden, with fountains and sculptures in the mix, as well as visible fragments of the garden’s original medieval walls. The famed 19th-century art dealer Stefano Bardini lived in the Villa Mozzi (now the Villa Bardini) and it is his unique taste and vision that continues to shape this ornate attraction.

There aren’t many other places in the world where you can buy luxury bags, wallets, belts and jewelry made from local crocodile skins. Welcome to the Northern Territory. Di Croco in Darwin offers some of the finest products from the most valuable of all croc skins—that of the saltwater crocodile, which has a beautifully intricate small-scale pattern. The shop works with two of the eight licensed crocodile farms in Australia and is involved in every step of the process from procuring skins to tanning, finishing and making hardware. An Italian-made collection features bags with custom-made lining designed by one of the artists of the Merrepen arts community in the Daly River Region of the Northern Territory. A beautiful red handbag could set you back $5,000 AUD, but it’s a bargain compared to the high fashion houses, and a literal piece of the Northern Territory that you can take home.