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If the Djemaa el Fna is the epicenter of Marrakech, the Rahba Lakdima—otherwise known as the Place des Épices, or Spice Traders Square—is surely the epicenter of the medina itself. Bursting with rambunctious energy and high-voltage color, the market is lined on one side by mysterious herbalists and spice traders selling everything from snakeskins to rose petals to ras el hanout (the famous Moroccan spice blend), and by carpet sellers on the other. Venture to the latter’s lair around 4 p.m. when sellers come down from the mountain villages, and you’ll be treated to the spectacle of them plying their trade with the professionals. And in the middle, heaps of woven baskets and woolen skullcaps are piled high. There’s no better place to sit and watch this daily theater unfold than at the Café des Épices, the first of several that have now opened there, but still our favorite for excellent coffee, fresh salads, sandwiches, and tagines.

Set halfway between the old town and “newer” neighborhoods like Ville Nouvelle, this 40-acre urban resort perfectly marries historic details with cosmopolitan style. Surrounded by views of the Atlas Mountains, it features a collection of low-slung buildings, set around Moorish-style gardens and two glittering swimming pools (one is family-friendly with integrated whirlpools, while the other is 131 feet long and only for adults). Other amenities include clay tennis courts, dedicated programming for both kids and teens, and a gorgeous spa for Moroccan hammam rituals and nourishing argan-oil massages.

Catering to all types of travelers, the 139 accommodations range from spacious rooms in the main building to standalone pavilions, one-bedroom suites, private-pool suites, and villas with two or four bedrooms. All feature contemporary décor, handcrafted Moroccan accents, marble bathrooms, modern conveniences, and terraces or patios with views of the gardens or mountains. The poolside Azzera restaurant serves everything from flame-grilled meats to Thai papaya salads for lunch, while the romantic Inara lounge features cocktails and Moroccan cuisine made with herbs and spices from the resort’s gardens. Also on-site is Quattro, which serves a buffet breakfast in the morning, then morphs into an elegant Southern Italian eatery for dinner.

Marrakesh’s legendary La Mamounia, which dates back to the 12th century, reopened in 2009 after a meticulous three-year renovation by noted French architect and designer Jacques Garcia. Step behind its fabled doors and a sensory feast awaits, from the gentle tinkling of the numerous water fountains and basins; to the fragrant waft of jasmine, orange blossom, and cedar; to the lush Arab-Andalusian interiors, filled with traditional Zellige tilework, sculpted wood, and carved plaster. There are 209 rooms and suites, with the largest topping out at more than 1,000 square feet. Views range between Koutoubia Mosque, the snow-capped Atlas Mountains, and La Mamounia’s own legendary gardens, which abound with 2,000-year-old rose bushes, 700-year-old olive trees, and flowering bougainvillea and jacaranda. Three secluded, standalone riads each feature three bedrooms arranged around a central patio and private pool, though guests would be remiss not to hang around La Mamounia’s dreamy central pool, lined with palm trees, loungers, and lanterns.

We spent the night in this Bedoin tent in the Sahara near Erfoud, Morocco. The sand is this color, orange. The desert was actually wet in April, the night was cold and clear. The stars were amazing. Recommended. Many tour companies can arrange an overnight in the desert, either in a hotel at the edge of the dunes or in a private tented encampment.

This delightful gallery is housed in one of Marrakech‘s elegant Saadian town houses, all creamy white plaster walls and subtle bejmat (unglazed terra-cotta) tiled floors. It’s the perfect setting for what began as owner-creators Hamid Mergani and Patrick Manac’h’s private and extensive collection of photographs that document scenes and portraits of Moroccan life over the past century. Today the foundation encompasses a whole lot more, with numerous collectors and photographers such as Daniel Chicault, Ana Muller, and Jean-Pierre Évrard donating or loaning from their own collections. There’s also a terrific little café on the roof for traditional Berber cooking and splendid views of the Atlas Mountains.

As one of the most innovative players on the Marrakech restaurant scene, Kamal Laftimi spearheads projects that are nothing if not showstoppers. This buzzy, green-on-green–tiled riad, bristling with courtyard banana trees, is a case in point. It’s a hip hangout by day for locals and expats who meet for coffees throughout the morning and pop into celebrated kaftan designer Norya ayroN’s little boutique, which occupies a small space on the first floor. By night, it sparkles with the light of hundreds of glittering candles while large extended families and cooing couples gather over Moroccan classics such as pigeon pastilla, vegetarian couscous, and chicken tagine with olives and raisins, as well as a handful of crowd-pleasing classics such as steak frites and burgers (no alcohol served).

Opened in 1946 as a restaurant (where the famous regulars included Churchill and Hemingway), La Maison Arabe later expanded to a small hotel, then grew again under its current French-Italian owner. Today, it features 26 garden- or patio-view rooms and suites, individually designed in either a traditional or slightly more modern Moroccan style. All have air-conditioning and heating (a must for the varied desert temperatures) as well as Wi-Fi, satellite TVs, and marble-and-granite bathrooms stocked with aromatic toiletries. Also available to guests is an idyllic swimming pool, around which the hotel serves a home-cooked breakfast each morning, and the clubby, 1930s-inspired Piano Bar, where guests can enjoy live jazz and pre-dinner drinks by the fireplace. When it’s time to unwind, head to the cozy spa for an array of face, body, and hamman treatments, all performed with products made exclusively for the hotel.

Much like in the past, La Maison Arabe revolves around food. Guests can choose between Le Restaurant, where a gorgeous fountain and hand-painted ceiling set the stage for authentic Moroccan fare, and the intimate, lantern-lit Les Trois Saveurs, which serves a sophisticated menu of French, Moroccan, and Asian dishes. Additionally, the hotel offers some of the city’s best cooking classes, which are open to outside guests. Led by a dada (a traditional Moroccan cook), the lessons take place either at the main hotel or the Country Club—a satellite property located 15 minutes away by complimentary shuttle, where students can also find a larger pool, lush gardens, a restaurant, and a bit of calm away from the bustle of the medina.

Dar Roumana is widely celebrated as having the best restaurant in Fes, and with good reason. Its charming courtyard dining room—decorated with cream-colored upholstery and tropical plants that complement the building’s original hand-cut zellij tiles, carved plaster, and painted-wood ceilings—is also rave-worthy. Arrive early enough to sip its signature pomegranate fizz from the crow’s nest, then settle in to indulge in a menu that fuses the flavors of Morocco with the finesse of classical French cuisine. Perennial favorites are the roast pumpkin salad with goat cheese, chilies, and coriander; braised local rabbit in mustard; and an elegant, bitter chocolate tart that could cause even the bistros of Paris to bristle with envy. Top tip: For a romantic winter meal, reserve the table by the fireplace.

Haj Mohamed has made his name both as one of Marrakech’s top antique dealers and, for over three decades, one of its top tour guides, with clients ranging from U.S. presidents to celebrities like Nicole Kidman and Brad Pitt. Both of his passions come together at his 11-room hotel, which he crafted with teams of skilled artisans and furnished himself. Set in an 18th-century riad, it features a traditional central courtyard and pool as well as warm, intimate guestrooms, complete with rich textiles, carved wooden doors, and cushy, low-slung seating. The same welcoming aesthetic can be found in the hotel’s common spaces, which include a small plunge pool, various pillow-laden lounges, a rooftop terrace, and a courtyard where guests can enjoy live music. Riad Kniza is also known for its gourmet Moroccan restaurant, which features just nine tables and requires reservations at least one day in advance, as the chef purchases ingredients fresh from the markets each morning.

The gallery, boutique, and tearooms of Morocco’s most famous living artist, Hassan Hajjaj, is an essential stop for any art lovers staying in the city. Tucked away down a narrow alley behind the Rahba Lakdima (otherwise known as the Place des Épices), it’s like stumbling into a jewel box filled with pop-art treasures. Hajjaj made a name for himself with a series of photographs titled Kech Angels, which depicted local girls on mopeds dressed in eye-popping robes. The collection has been exhibited all over the world in such illustrious venues as the Victoria and Albert Museum in London and the Institut des Cultures d’Islam in Paris, but nowhere beats enjoying the work on home turf. While you’re there, treat yourself to his iconic recycled home and fashion pieces, such as a sardine-can lantern, a pair of babouches (Moroccan slippers) cut from a flour sack, or a stool from an oil drum. And if you hang around for a pot of mint tea in the courtyard, you might even meet the man himself.

After a day of exploring and shopping, it’s a pleasure to pass through the wooden doors of this Relais & Chateaux hotel (near the Koutoubia Mosque and souks) and into a world of fragrant orange trees, poolside loungers, and fresh mint tea served on shaded terraces. Housed in a 1930s-era riad with three swimming pools, Villa des Orangers features 27 elegant rooms and suites, complete with decor like hand-painted tiles, latticed woodwork, arched doorways, and carved mantles as well as modern conveniences like air-conditioning, Nespresso machines, and smart TVs. As at all Relais & Chateaux properties, food is a priority here. Days begin with a generous breakfast of local cheeses and homemade jams, and end with a refined Mediterranean-meets-Moroccan dinner, which can be enjoyed al fresco or by one of the indoor fireplaces. Guests can also look forward to a five-room spa, known for its traditional Moroccan hamman ritual perfumed with roses and orange blossoms.

In the Palmerie neighborhood outside of town, ethno-botanist Gary Martin and his wife, interior designer Meryanne Loum-Martin, have created a fairytale oasis—whose name translates to “big garden”—with five houses, five pools, and beautiful green spaces spread over nine lush acres. Set in three different villas, the 24 uniquely designed, boho-chic rooms range from the Small (which can be tight and somewhat dark) to the more spacious Standard, Large, Garden, and Pavilion options, which feature plenty of light and perks like fireplaces, terraces, king beds, and artisan details.

When not lounging around one of the pools, guests can play a set on the clay tennis courts, wander around the botanical gardens, take a Moroccan cooking class with Chef Bahija, or explore the surrounding area by bike, vintage sidecar, or camel. Kids are more than welcome here and can look forward to such programming as calligraphy and magic classes, while adults can expect in-room massages and outdoor yoga classes. Breakfast is included in the room rate and, like all meals, can be enjoyed in various spaces around the hotel. Dinner is particularly magical when served underneath countless glowing lanterns.

I looked at shoes at every souk in every medina in every city and town in Morocco, but ... unfortunately, their sizing did not cover my apparently giant feet. Oh well. I still enjoyed the looking!

When on the road in south or southwestern Morocco, you may notice a tourist bus that has pulled over and discharged a busload of passengers to run dashing through the trees with their cameras. What might be happening? The answer is simple: tree-climbing goats! Let me explain the trees first -- A huge cottage/co-op industry in Morocco is the production of argan oil, derived from the seed kernel of the fruit of the argan tree, endemic to Morocco. The argan tree grows wild in semi-desert soil and is extremely well adapted to drought and other difficult growing conditions of the region. The species Argania once covered much of North Africa but is now endangered and under protection of UNESCO. Argan oil is valued for its nutritional, cosmetic and medicinal properties, and could be considered one of the rarest oils in the world due the very small growing region. OK, now I’ll explain the goats. Goats love the fruit of these trees so much that they use their climbing ability to get far up into the trees to eat the fruit. Prior to the adoption of modern processing methods, argan oil was once produced by collecting the undigested kernels passed by the goats (sorry, just had to mention that!). Be sure to shop for some of the wonderfully rich lotions and creams made from argan oil; and look for handcrafted soap as well.

Opened in 2012 in the Palmerie neighborhood, surrounded by views of the Djebilet Hills and Atlas Mountains, this stunning resort feels miles away from the world—though complimentary shuttles whisk guests to the town center in less than 25 minutes. The popularity with the glam crowd and the variety of super-sized accommodations also help make it feel like an upscale residential enclave. Choose between 41 chic rooms, suites, villas, and “palaces,” all connected by pathways that wind under Moorish arches, through gardens, and over flower-filled ponds; even the entry-level Deluxe Rooms offer plenty of space, with oversized bathrooms, fireplaces, outdoor seating, and a large heated plunge pool, while the three kinds of Suites, multi-bedroom Villas, and three private residence Palaces (with three or four bedrooms each) offer other perks like full-sized swimming pools, kitchens, and more outdoor living areas. Enjoy breakfast and dinner at the French-Moroccan Le Namaskar, lunch at La Table in the gardens, tea at Espace T, and drinks at a variety of bars, including the rooftop Nomad Bar, where bubbles are served to DJ-spun tunes and endless views. (The decadent brunch, served on the lawn with fluffy pillows as seats, is popular with locals, so be sure to make a reservation.) Though every room has a private pool for a dip, there’s also a main one ringed by loungers, as well as other soaking spots—and a full menu of treatments—at the lantern-lit spa.