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Why we love it: A 900-year-old fortress-cum-prison reimagined as a luxurious getaway

The Highlights:
- Historical details like artifacts, original ironwork, and a stone arch bearing the seal of Abdul Hamid II
- A fourth-floor infinity pool with uninterrupted views of the Mediterranean Sea
- A full-service spa with a Turkish hammam

The Review:
Located right on the main square in the old city of Jaffa, The Setai Tel Aviv is steeped in history. Built by the Crusaders as a fortress in the 12th century, the property later served as a kishle (jailhouse) under the Ottoman Empire, then a British command post during Israel’s War of Independence. When it became a hotel, the original building, with its stone corridors and inner courtyards, underwent a meticulous restoration that included archaeological digs to uncover several artifacts, which guests can now see in the lobby. Those eager to learn more about the hotel’s history can also walk through the large entry arch, crowned by the seal of Abdul Hamid II, or check out the stone-and-iron prison cells behind the grotto-like lobby bar.

Spread over three newly created floors, the 120 rooms and suites feature an Ottoman-inspired design, complete with richly colored Turkish rugs, laser-cut pendant lamps, dark wood furniture, and sleek, textured headboards. Spacious bathrooms further the luxurious vibe with granite sinks, large bathtubs, and separate rain showers. Elsewhere on property is Jaya, where guests can indulge in an ample breakfast buffet and new-Mediterranean kosher food for lunch and dinner; former prison yards that serve as the hotel’s stunning front and rear courtyards, with comfy seating among verdant lemon trees; and a basement spa, which boasts a traditional Turkish hammam. Still, the hotel’s principal amenity has to be the fabulous infinity pool with panoramic views of the Mediterranean and downtown Tel Aviv—sunsets here are nothing short of spectacular.

When former Israeli commando Guli Dabas opened Guli Hagadol, you might have been forgiven for thinking a name like “Guli the Great” was unbridled narcissism. After a chat with the chef, however, we get it: his life is like an adventure book that swoops from Baghdad to Israel, Lebanon to Yemen. All that, plus rigorous military training, are factors shaping his restaurant, serving favorites from various Middle-Eastern latitudes, all prepared methodically and painstakingly. For erstwhile warrior Guli the Great, “Cooking is logistics.”

“Alon and I are regulars for Friday breakfast. We love their take on the Arab dish shakshuka. In the original, eggs are poached in a sauce of tomatoes and red peppers, but here they use green peppers instead of red, and they add goat cheese.” —Architect Irene Kronenberg

Located between Akko and the Sea of Galilee, this working kibbutz and spa hotel is the perfect recharge. I know that sounds cliché, but bear with me. First off, the backstory goes like this: a German-born homeopathic doctor stumbled upon the hillside site in 1923 and decided it was his dream parcel; forty years later, he managed to build a clinic there. The sloping refuge into which he poured his heart and soul is now a 97-room health resort, one that is an institution of sorts in Israel. Among Israelis, Mizpe Hiyamim is (understandably) seen as a splurge. That said, it is not all that fancy by today’s rapidly escalating high-end standards, and therein lies its charm. Where else can you go straight from feeding goats to getting a facial or hot-stone massage? The farm’s bounty enhances the experience. It puts out 50 types of cheese and pretty much all the produce that ends up on the menus for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. It’s not necessarily a California-style approach to holistic living—the restaurant caters to meat-eaters, and I found myself deliberating between goat neck, lamb shoulder, and veal tongue for the main course. The spa makes use of olive oil from trees that are grown on-site. This, then, is not just another modern temple to individual well-being, but one that combines land and history—human and natural—in a way that truly makes you truly appreciate your surroundings. That, to me, is the ultimate traveler’s recharge.

I went to Israel for two weeks and I came back at least 10 pounds heavier. My downfall began with a trip to Mahane Yehuda (the “Shuk”), Jerusalem’s oldest and largest market where I discovered Israeli cheese, halva, pastries, cookies, olives, fresh and dried fruits - I indulged! My weakness though came in the form of the ever so tasty Israeli breads. My nose brought me to this man’s shop on Eitz HaChaim Street – that intoxicating, yeasty smell of freshly baked bread was too enticing to deny. For four shekels, I bought a piece of the pita bread topped with a spread made from olive oil and za’atar, the spice mix ubiquitous to the Middle East. My mistake was taking a bite of the bread before I left the market. I had to have more. The next thing you know, I was down another a few more shekels for another piece of the pita, a bagel and piece of taboon bread to try out. During my short stay in Jerusalem, I visited his store several times and tried out all the other varieties he had. Of course, Mahane Yehuda has a lot more to offer than bread so if you’re a market person, a visit to Mahane Yehuda is a must. For 99 NIS, you can buy a ticket called Shuk Bites which gives you a map and a punch card that you use to take a self guided tour through the market with curated tasting samples along the way – a perfect way to explore the this foodie paradise! You can get to Mahane Yehuda via Jerusalem’s light rail. Just get off at the station stop by the same name.

The original patriarch of this outfit sold hummus from a pushcart before opening the shop more than 40 years ago. His descendants make two or three big batches every day, which they serve from 8 a.m. until they run out, usually around 3 p.m. You can’t make reservations, and you should except a crowd, but the taste is well worth the wait.

The smallest holding in the mini-empire of Uri Jeremias, who also owns Akko’s Uri Buri restaurant and Efendi Hotel, this bright and no-frills ice cream shop sits along the old city’s western seafront. These are natural treats, made using local dairy products and no powders or stabilizers. The result is smooth and creamy, and the flavors (up to 16 available at a given time) are ones you won’t find too many other parts of the world, such as date, halva, cardamom, and rose.

While wandering around Jaffa, one of the oldest settlements in the world and now connected to Tel Aviv, I stumbled upon a restaurant called Dr. Shakshuka. The specialty is--wait for it--shakshuka, a concoction of poached eggs, tomato, onion, cumin, and chili peppers. And the man who makes it actually calls himself Dr. Shakshuka (pictured). The Doctor., a Libyan Jew, stands on a raised platform, several burners in front of him, like a DJ performing for the dining room. Diagnosis: Delicious.

Since the 1931 opening of the King David Jerusalem, nary a hospitality award has gone unclaimed, nor a foreign dignitary ignored, by this palatial limestone landmark. Though the building’s original splendor—with its Assyrian, Hittite, Phoenician, and Muslim motifs—is still very much on display, local wunderkind Adam Tihany recently refreshed the interiors for 21st-century tastes. The resulting design jives perfectly with the hotel’s location in Yemin Moshe, at the crossroads of old and new Jerusalem. Hotel guests also rave about the spectacular views of the Old City walls, minarets, and golden Dome of the Rock. For the most surreal vistas, book an upper-floor suite, then tear yourself away to visit the hotel’s tree-flanked pool and gorgeous gardens, or take a 15-minute walk to the ancient walls.

If you are looking for a quiet meal, this is not the place for you. But if you want mouth-watering, inventive food with attentive service and authentic Israeli hospitality, Machneyuda hits the spot. Situated in the iconic Jerusalem shuk, or marketplace, the restaurant is the brainchild of three acclaimed chefs: Yossi Elad, Assaf Granite, and Uri Navon. The kitchen showcases locally sourced ingredients prepared with modern creativity and classic techniques. The lively dining room is focused on creativity. For the restaurant’s signature dessert presentation, tables are covered with aluminum foil and covered with a dizzying variety of cakes, fruits, ice creams, and sweets.

While it’s located mere minutes from Tel Aviv’s trademark beaches, the Brown TLV Urban Hotel is decidedly city-centric. Not coincidentally, it’s also in the center of town, surrounded by an array of distinctive neighborhoods like the UNESCO World Heritage-designated “White City,” the old Yemenite area of Kerem HaTeimanim, and the seemingly endless street market that is Nachalat Binyamin. Beyond being a strategically positioned home base, however, the hotel makes for a great escape. Once you’ve explored the city on a free loaner bike, you can retreat to the rooftop hot tub, the indoor-outdoor Garden Bar, the den-like living room, or—if you’ve booked one of the Zen-inducing Relax Rooms—your private balcony, ideally after an en suite spa treatment.

Built in the 1910’s, the Big Synagogue in Allenby street is one of the known monuments in Tel Aviv which serves as a cultural and religious center for the many residents in the area. When it was constructed,it’s beautiful dome stood in stark contrast to Judaism’s usually bleak houses of prayer, but the dome is barely visible now thanks to the columns around it. The synagogue is still active and opened to the public and actually getting very popular for weddings and Bar Mitzva’s ceremonies

A short drive from Amman, the town of Madaba is home to one of Jordan’s largest Christian communities and several impressive churches. Of these, the Greek Orthodox St. George’s Church is the most interesting. The church wasn’t built until the end of the 19th century, but during construction workers uncovered one of the most important surviving artistic relics of the Byzantine era: the Madaba Mosaic Map. Created by artisans in the 6th century, the mosaic was once an intricate map of Holy Land sites, covering modern-day Jordan, Israel, the Palestinian Territories, and Egypt’s Sinai. Only a quarter of the original work survives today, but even this fragment, which sits in the floor of the church, shows astounding detail. Look closely and you’ll see fish swimming in the Jordan River, the walls and gates of Jerusalem, Mount Sinai, and even the Nile Delta. There’s also an excellent exhibition next to the church to help you get the most out of your viewing.

For Christians, the Baptism Site of Jesus Christ at Bethany Beyond the Jordan is one of the most significant places in the world. Located amid a prepossessing sweep of scrubby plains, next to the sensitive border between Israel and the Palestinian Territories, this is the spot where John the Baptist baptized Jesus, turning the Jordan River into holy water and reviving the souls of all believers. It’s been a pilgrimage site since the Byzantines built a church here in the 5th century.

The ruins are spread across a wide area, so tickets include a compulsory guided tour as well as a shuttle bus that ferries visitors from one attraction to the next. Expect to see the scattered remnants of churches, monasteries, and chapels, as well as the excavated baptismal site and several modern churches belonging to different Christian traditions. The highlight of the tour is visiting the banks of the Jordan River, though these days it’s more of a stream than the free-flowing water of biblical accounts. You can actually get in the water or simply fill bottles from the font, but drinking is not advised due to pollution. On the opposite bank, you’ll see pilgrims doing the same at the Israeli-run version of the site in the Palestinian Territories.

Though it’s technically part of Eilat and connected to endless local activities via a beachfront promenade, the 375-room Dan feels like an ecosystem unto itself, complete with multiple waterfalls, pools, restaurants, and even squash courts, plus a spa, salon, and disco. Not your average megaresort, the venerable lodging was designed by globetrotting interiors guru Adam Tihany, who grew up just a few hours away in Jerusalem. For the full effect, consider one of the new rooms or suites, which feature muted, desert-chic décor, but know that any room will come with the most important amenity—views of the Red Sea. When you’re ready to leave the property, a whole menu of snorkeling and diving excursions awaits, as does Eilat’s Underwater Observatory Marine Park. The hotel is also happy to arrange jeep tours through the desert (don’t miss the Red Canyon and Solomon’s Valley) and visits to the International Birding and Research Center Eilat, known for its flamingo pools.