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Port Maria offers a glimpse of Jamaica’s colonial past, and is one of the most scenic towns on the north coast. The area is believed to have been one of the first Taino settlements, before it was established by Spanish settlers who gave it much of its still-standing colonial era architecture. It’s a contrast of the old—with centuries old architecture—and the new, with bustling local activity. Architecture buffs will enjoy a slow drive along the coast to admire ancient buildings like the 1861 St. Mary Parish Church, towering over a postcard-perfect bay and winding coastline. There isn’t much to do here, but it’s worth passing through for a sense of Jamaica‘s past. And for the scenery, of course.

Outside of Carnival time, you’ll find very little in the Caribbean that’s actually open 24/7. Major hotels and resorts are the exception, of course, though even they don’t usually offer much of anything to eat that doesn’t come by way of room service.

Not so at the Jamaica Pegasus. One of Kingston’s leading business hotels, the Pegasus is where I found the 24 Seven Cafe.

It was ungodly late... Saturday night... the jerk chicken I’d devoured earlier in the evening a distant memory.

24 Seven Cafe to the rescue! Sandwiches, muffins, sweets, and what must be some of Kingston’s finest ice cream are all on offer here anytime, day or night.

Drink selections range from coffee, tea, sodas headlined by the local fave Ting to Red Stripe and a few other beers for those who want to keep the party going. 24 Seven Cafe is located in the lobby of the Jamaica Pegasus hotel. Night owls won’t want to miss it.

You haven’t quite experienced the most authentic Reggae concert in Jamaica until you’ve been to Rebel Salute. While Sumfest gets all the press and is more commercialized, Rebel Salute—held every January—is Jamaica’s largest strictly-Reggae all-night show, headlining every single big Reggae music name you can think of. Now held on the north coast, on the picturesque grounds of Grizzly’s Plantation Cove, this well organized, alcohol-free event welcomes everyone from families to couples. Camp out by bringing your lawn chairs and blankets to indulge in the best of Reggae all night long, under the starry nights of the south. Food and soft drink vendors are present, of course, as are souvenir sellers. Tour operators do arrange group round trips to the event—inquire with Clive’s Transport--and hotels near the venue offer deals.

One of the most romantic drives in Jamaica takes you just outside Ocho Rios and onto the A3 highway, through “Fern Gully": a stunning three-mile gorge surrounded by sky-scraping, 30-foot fern trees. You’ll feel as if you’re on a completely different island as you pass through this natural, green tunnel, once a riverbed. Pull off to the side where possible to stop and take in the views, and even a walk. Because this is a road often taken by visitors and is one of Jamaica’s natural wonders, there are vendors lining up the road, but not so many that it spoils the view. Keep an eye on the road at all times—there might be a man on leaf-adorned stilts appearing before you. Never a dull moment in Jamaica.

With a 20-foot waterfall, a deep turquoise pool, and underwater caves, the Irie Blue Hole is a special find. You’ll need to hire a guide in nearby Ocho Rios to bring you up the mountain to explore this off-the-beaten-track place, but it’s one of Jamaica’s most stunning swimming holes. The lush setting, surging blue waters, and options for cliff-jumping will keep you there for hours. This gorgeous blue hole is now attracting more visitors, but it never feels too crowded. Yet!

For those who aspire to travel as trendsetters in Jamaica, it helps to know that Port Antonio, way out on the eastern end of the island, is the destination to head for. And the address to shelter at is the Trident Hotel, whose 13 waterfront villas would not look out of place on South Beach. Nor would the crowd that hangs around its infinity pool or in its restaurant, Mike’s Supper Club, where local musicians and the occasional celeb sit down to knock out tunes on the 1917 Ferrari-red grand piano. The Trident Castle, a kind of fantasy annex, is a former private residence whose grand rooms, sea-view terraces, and dollhouse-size chapel make it ideal for destination weddings. A hard road to get there? Not for guests who avail themselves of the helicopter pad.

If you’re looking for a break from the beach and the noise, head to Konoko Falls Park (formerly known as Coyaba River Garden) for a quiet picnic, swim, and nature walk through beautifully manicured gardens. The Mahoe tiered waterfalls—a smaller, just-as-picturesque version of Dunn’s River Falls but rarely crowded—cascade through the park, and an on-site museum showcases the history of Jamaica’s first inhabitants, the Taino. The park offers gorgeous views of Ocho Rios’s bay below. Climbing and swimming in the falls, at your own pace, is great fun.

Stroll inside the Errol Flynn Marina, located right in Port Antonio town, for a waterfront respite along manicured lawns and sailboats. Enjoy an afternoon “I-Scream” cone from the on-site Devon House, a household name in Jamaica. There are public benches by the water, as well as bars and restaurants. If you can, stay long enough to enjoy the sunset.

Set directly above rocky low cliffs of Negril and lit at night by torches and candles, Rockhouse Restaurant provides the setting for an elegant and romantic evening. (The setting’s pretty great during the day, too—breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served in this open-sided palapa and patio.) The New Jamaican cuisine means a refined and more health-conscious preparation of classic island recipes, with as many ingredients as possible from the hotel’s small organic garden across the road. Among the notable dinner offerings are the blackened mahimahi with mango chutney, snapper steamed in a banana leaf, and coconut shrimp.

Though few tourists venture to Kingston, the capital and hub on the eastern coast of Jamaica, music fans should make the day trip to visit Bob Marley’s former home, now a museum dedicated to Marley’s life and impact on the world. A guided tour of this museum takes about an hour and a half and includes a 20-minute video presentation. Even devoted reggae fans will likely learn more about Bob than they ever knew. Exhibits include multiple awards, guitars, and his bed with an engraved headboard depicting a lion.

Few venture this far east in Jamaica, but those who do will find one of the most authentic sides of the island, and the most secluded of getaways. A charming fishing village about thirty minutes past Port Antonio, Long Bay is as peaceful and scenic as it gets, with just a handful of affordable, casual guesthouses perched atop dramatic cliffs and overlooking a long stretch of deserted beach. No frills here, just nature and culture. The fresh ocean air, the roadside fresh seafood shacks and friendly locals will have you staying longer than you planned. Be sure to drive along the coastal highway and head as far as Manchioneal, another stunning fishing village that feels thousands of miles away from the touristy side of Jamaica.

Looking for some peace and quiet? No need to stay in the heart of Seven Mile. Keep walking all the way north of the beach--or hop in a taxi--and end up at Long Bay Beach Park. Past the hotel belt, this stretch offers respite from the chaotic tourist scene. There are picnic benches and changing rooms on site. Adjacent is an excellent beach restaurant, Cosmo’s, in case you have the munchies. Few folks venture here and you’ll be relieved to know that vendors stick to the busier, crowded stretch of Seven Mile. If you’re looking for even more quiet, take a taxi ride to Half Moon Beach, just 10 minutes away--a private, stunning crescent shaped stretch where you can swim and spend the day as long as you’re buying lunch at their excellent, casual on site restaurant serving the fresh catch of the day.

Tastee and Juicy may be the two most popular brands of Jamaican patties, but one definitely should not miss out on the super premium patties on offer at Devon House Bakery. Set on the grounds of the historic Kingston mansion, just a few minutes from such notable area hotels as the Courtleigh, Jamaica Pegasus, and the Knutsford Court, Devon House Bakery espouses some serious Old World cafe charm. A fine selection of sinful sweets – brownies, butter cookies, cakes, muffins – awaits inside. So too does one of the most amazing Jamaican patties I’ve ever tried. Options go well beyond the usual beef with fish, pork, shrimp, and lobster elevating the typical Jamaican patty to new heights. The best choice, though, is the curry goat. Spicy and succulent, the Devon House goat patty melts in your mouth while warming your soul. Pure, delicious niceness and most certainly the very best Jamaican patty I’ve ever had. Don’t miss it!

Located along a stretch of coastline that’s sometimes called the birthplace of jerk cuisine, the Boston Bay Jerk Center is hard to miss. Various meats are cook on open pits using a technique that may explain why jerk never tastes so good at home: Uncured pimento logs are placed over a bed of hot coals, and the meat is laid directly on the green logs. The whole operation is then covered up by a sheet of corrugated zinc and cooked until it’s black on the outside and tender underneath. You can place your order by the quarter, half, or full pound. Don’t forget to add jerk sauce, which you can also buy by the bottle as a souvenir.

Going to dinner at Little Ochie is as fun as it is delicious. Pick your dinner—from a cooler of freshly caught fish—by species and by weight, then pick the style in which you’d like it cooked: jerk, grilled, escoveitch, and more. Pick a side of bammy, a thick round of cassava bread, to go with it. Your next decision is where to eat—head outside and choose a picnic table under one of the thatched huts carved in the shape of a fisherman’s canoe. The combination of beachy atmosphere and great fish makes this relaxed yet lively slice of Jamaica well worth the hour-long drive from Treasure Beach.