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Albert Kahn’s photographic archive is a mesmerizing record of human history.

Jordan is an ancient land with enough historic sites to spend a lifetime exploring. If you don’t have that long, head straight for the sublime ruins of Petra, the rose-pink city tucked into a series of canyons—and one of the crown jewels of world heritage. Then, travel north of Amman to the ancient city of Jerash, one of the best-preserved Roman archaeological sites in the world. You’ll also want to see the mosaics of Madaba and nearby Mount Nebo, where Moses first saw the Promised Land, as well as the site where Jesus was baptized and its surrounding Crusader castles and desert palaces.

There are thousands of traditional Japanese inns with hot springs across Japan. This hot spring lodge is part of a decade-old Japanese pastime.

Jordan is home to a lot more than epic historic sites. Lesser-known but definitely deserving of wider exposure is the country’s collection of nature reserves, where you can splash through rivers, find oryx in the desert, go bird-watching in hidden green oases, or even hike through canyons on the back route to Petra.

There’s more to Jordan’s history than Petra. Away from the Nabataeans’ feted “Rose-Red City,” a treasure trove of ruins awaits. Travelers who want to dig a little deeper into this nation’s past can walk down colonnaded Roman roads, gaze up at Umayyad frescoes, and scramble over slumping rubble to explore toppled churches still clinging on to fragments of once majestic mosaics. Better yet, at most sites you’re likely to have the entire place to yourself.

An easy day trip from Amman, Shaumari Wildlife Reserve sits at the gateway to Jordan’s eastern deserts, where a pioneering conservation project is under way. The Arabian oryx, with its extraordinary, unicorn-like horns, was hunted to near extinction in the 20th century, but a captive breeding program overseen by the Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature is attempting to bring them back, reintroducing the dazzling white antelopes on Shaumari’s grounds. Visitors to the park can see several oryx, as well as other desert animals like ostriches, gazelles, and wild donkeys, during safari rides through the park. Tours take place in actual safari vehicles and are led by expert guides, who provide commentary on the park, its animals, and its ongoing conservation work.

A journey into the ethnic neighborhoods redefining the City of Light

A short drive from Amman, the town of Madaba is home to one of Jordan’s largest Christian communities and several impressive churches. Of these, the Greek Orthodox St. George’s Church is the most interesting. The church wasn’t built until the end of the 19th century, but during construction workers uncovered one of the most important surviving artistic relics of the Byzantine era: the Madaba Mosaic Map. Created by artisans in the 6th century, the mosaic was once an intricate map of Holy Land sites, covering modern-day Jordan, Israel, the Palestinian Territories, and Egypt’s Sinai. Only a quarter of the original work survives today, but even this fragment, which sits in the floor of the church, shows astounding detail. Look closely and you’ll see fish swimming in the Jordan River, the walls and gates of Jerusalem, Mount Sinai, and even the Nile Delta. There’s also an excellent exhibition next to the church to help you get the most out of your viewing.

The Dead Sea has deservedly become known as something of a spa destination, with visitors helping themselves to goopy masks of the local, mineral-rich mud for decades. For something slightly more luxurious, book an appointment at Zara Spa in the Mövenpick Resort. Done up in raw stone, elaborate tiles, and polished plaster, the five-star facility evokes the Jordanian desert combined with a Moroccan riad. It also boasts one of the widest range of treatments in the entire Middle East, plus expertly trained therapists to ease you into a truly relaxed state of mind. The traditional hammam is a particular delight, but be sure to also indulge in popular treatments like the black mud body wrap or the hot-and-cold-stone massage. When you book a service, you’ll also have access to the spa’s top-notch facilities, which include hydro, flotation, and infinity pools as well as a juice bar and state-of-the-art fitness center.

Dana Biosphere Reserve is the largest nature reserve in Jordan. For hikers and trekkers, it’s one of Jordan’s top places to get out into the wilderness, but even the less adventurous will enjoy a stop here simply to enjoy the tranquillity of Dana village, with its majestic views over the tumbling hills below. The reserve is dominated by enormous sandstone cliffs that guard the valley, creating a series of microclimates and ecosystems that house nearly 200 species of birds and most of Jordan’s mammals. Sightings of ibex, gazelles, and even wolves are not uncommon. At the entrance to the reserve in Dana village, you’ll find an excellent visitor center run by the Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature, which can recommend park guides. For a different way to experience the reserve, consider the five-day hike from Dana to Petra—deemed one of the greatest treks in the Middle East. It’s particularly pretty early in the year, when the route is laid with spring flowers.

For Christians, the Baptism Site of Jesus Christ at Bethany Beyond the Jordan is one of the most significant places in the world. Located amid a prepossessing sweep of scrubby plains, next to the sensitive border between Israel and the Palestinian Territories, this is the spot where John the Baptist baptized Jesus, turning the Jordan River into holy water and reviving the souls of all believers. It’s been a pilgrimage site since the Byzantines built a church here in the 5th century.

The ruins are spread across a wide area, so tickets include a compulsory guided tour as well as a shuttle bus that ferries visitors from one attraction to the next. Expect to see the scattered remnants of churches, monasteries, and chapels, as well as the excavated baptismal site and several modern churches belonging to different Christian traditions. The highlight of the tour is visiting the banks of the Jordan River, though these days it’s more of a stream than the free-flowing water of biblical accounts. You can actually get in the water or simply fill bottles from the font, but drinking is not advised due to pollution. On the opposite bank, you’ll see pilgrims doing the same at the Israeli-run version of the site in the Palestinian Territories.

Central Jordan is bisected by the King’s Highway, which runs south between the Dead Sea and the desert. The undoubted highlight of traveling this route is the massive Crusader castle of Karak, with its immense fortifications looming over the provincial town that bears its name. Built in 1140, it was one of the last outposts held by the Crusaders after Jerusalem was recaptured by Saladin in 1187. It fell to the Arab-Kurdish armies the following year after a long, drawn-out siege and continued to change hands—and shape—over time. The Mamelukes widened the moat and added more towers, while the Ottomans built a massive entry gate.

Today, Karak remains the largest, best-preserved castle in Jordan. Inside, there are tunnels, dark chambers and dungeons, and vast, arched-roof stables to explore. If you head east out of town, past the Cairwan Hotel, there’s a lookout point where you can get a spectacular view of the castle in its entirety.

Tucked into the hilly northwestern corner of Jordan, Umm Qais (or ancient Gadara) commands grand views of the Sea of Galilee and the Golan Heights from the edge of its plateau. It was here that Jesus is said to have performed the miracle of casting demons out of men and into pigs. The town has existed since the Hellenistic period, but is best known for its Roman ruins, which once sat along a prosperous trade route. Many ancient streets and buildings are still intact, as are several Ottoman-era stone houses, which remained occupied all the way until the 1980s. Grandest of all the ruins is the black basalt theater, located along the wide Decumanus Maximus that still holds its original paving stones. Visitors should also be sure to check out the small museum in what was once the home of the Ottoman governor, as well as the celebrated restaurant in the old Ottoman school. In recent years, Umm Qais has become a pioneer of community tourism in Jordan, and it’s even possible to take cooking classes, nature walks, or tours with a local beekeeper after enjoying the ancient ruins.

Take in views of a hot spring–fed waterfall, a dramatic ravine, and the Dead Sea from a resort that sits more than 800 feet below sea level. A cliff-top outdoor restaurant serves organic greens from the garden. Evason Ma’In, (800) 591-7480, from $300. This appeared in the December/January 2010 issue.

To get a feel for the real Dubai, there’s no better way than to book a tour with Frying Pan Adventures. Frying Pan was the first culinary tour outfit in Dubai, and their success is well deserved. A day with Frying Pan will get you out of the glitzy hotel scene and into Dubai’s neighborhoods, which can be hard to imagine when you’re sitting in a bar 25 stories above the city. On Arva’s Middle Eastern food tour you’ll try Syrian, Jordanian, Palestinian, Egyptian, Iranian, and Emirati cuisines. Good Emirati food is difficult to find outside of homes, so the tour is worth doing for that chance alone. You’ll get to sample delectable treats: from succulent Persian kebabs and wonderful Egyptian pastries to baklava dripping with honey and piping hot flat bread straight from the oven. Arva’s walking tours (or air-conditioned vans, in the hotter months), will take you from food trucks to tiny Egyptian kitchens, from Iranian saffron rice to Emirati date-scented desserts. Make sure to book well in advance, especially in the winter months.