Getting to Onar Andros—located on one of the northernmost Cycladic islands— requires a fair amount of determination. The island doesn’t have an airport, so you have to take a ferry from Athens or Mykonos, and once you arrive at the port in Gavrio, it’s a slow, windy, 25-mile drive to the hotel. Your reward is a tiny slice of Eden, however—an enclave of 10 stone-and-timber buildings set amid a lush river valley that’s only a five-minute walk to Ahia Beach, one of the most beautiful in all the Cyclades. Built and maintained by the owner, Mateo, Onar is a place to ditch your devices and surrender to your surroundings. The 10 private cottages are deliberately spare but still modern and comfortable, each with a pergola-shaded veranda with loungers and a hammock. Meals are served at a communal table, and what Mateo doesn’t grow organically, he sources from local fisherman, farmers, and bakers. Guests can even accompany him to pick his fruits and vegetables.