Located in a grand Victorian building with bas-reliefs by Lockwood Kipling (Rudyard Kipling’s father), Mahatma Jyotiba Phule Mandai, formerly known as Crawford Market, looks like a relic of British Bombay. But inside it’s 100 percent India, with a labyrinth of aisles, a crush of crowds and a riot of goods for sale, from fruit and vegetables to spices and clothes. Carry cash and bargain hard.