Both the Disney movie Moana and the creation myth of the Hawaiian island of Maui talk about a demigod named Maui who lassos the sun from atop Mount Haleakala.
Metaphorically speaking, many visitors to the island try to do the same, waking up in the middle of the night and driving to the apex of Haleakala National Park to see the ball of fire in the sky as it crests the horizon to start the day.
In recent years, however, increasing crowds and parking dramas have created huge problems at the summit. To combat overtourism to the area, the National Park Service responded in 2017 with a new reservation system and fee for sunrise viewing. The system requires that eager visitors between the peak hours of 3 a.m. to 7 a.m. pay a reservation fee to receive a permit (and thereby a parking space) in the summit parking lots.
How to make a sunrise-viewing reservation
In addition to the park’s entrance fee of $30 per car (which visitors pay with credit cards upon arrival at the summit or Kipahulu entrance stations), parking reservations for summit spots cost $1.00 per car during sunrise hours. The permits are sold online only (at Recreation.gov) and can be purchased up to 60 days in advance. During the aforementioned time of day, visitors with sunrise reservations must show a paper copy of their reservation as well as their photo ID. Reservations are not transferable and must be used on the date specified at purchase.
In an article on Maui Now, a local news site, park representatives said the online reservation system is being implemented to ensure visitor and employee safety, protect natural and cultural resources, and provide a quality visitor experience at the summit.
The rules in fine print
A FAQ document released by the park service indicates that there are no refunds due to inclement weather or change of plans and that vehicles parked without a permit between 3 and 7 a.m. will be ticketed. It also notes that due to limited parking, visitors without sunrise-viewing reservations will have to wait until after 7 a.m., at which time they can visit the summit without paying the $1.00 fee.
What’s more, the FAQ indicates that all fees—including entrance fees—are waived for Native Hawaiians who wish to conduct traditional cultural practices at sunrise or any other time of day. This provision originally was protected under the American Indian Religious Freedom Act.
Predictably, reactions to the NPS’s Haleakala parking permit system were mixed. Locals generally seemed happy about the new policy, embracing the notion that limiting traffic at the summit can only help preserve and protect it for future generations. Among travelers and those in the tourism industry, however, there was more skepticism—while the notion of following in Maui’s footsteps and lassoing the sun atop Haleakala once was readily available to everyone, now it is conceivable some visitors could miss out.
Tips for seeing the Haleakala sunrise
Photo by Ana Kamin
Our advice: As always, plan ahead. The $1.00 fee is negligible, and this experience definitely is worth the extra effort. A small batch of last-minute tickets are released on the booking website two days in advance of available reservations, so you can always check online beforehand (remaining tickets are released at 4 p.m. HST). Or you can head to the summit for sunset, which requires no reservation and is almost as amazing. But if you’re set on seeing the sunrise, here are several additional tips to keep in mind:
1. Arrive on time
Plan on getting to the summit at least one hour before sunrise. This way, you’ll secure a proper parking spot (do not park in the dirt—the fee is astronomical), a good viewing point, and you’ll get a chance to see the Milky Way. If you arrive even one minute after the sun is up, you’ll have missed the main show. As soon as the sun is completely up, it’s just another sunny morning.
2. It’s (way) colder than you think
You are far away from the beach, at an elevation of 10,023 feet, in the middle of the night. The temperature can drop to around 40 degrees with some gusty winds. Ditch the shorts and flip-flops and opt for long pants, a sweatshirt, and close-toed shoes with socks. Bring a beanie, scarf, and gloves if you packed them. It sounds strange but believe me, you will be thankful.
3. Be respectful of the silverswords . . . and your surroundings
These rare plants are protected, so it’s forbidden to touch them. Visitors have almost wiped out the silversword in recent years. The unique plant blooms only once in its 50-year lifespan and dies shortly thereafter, spreading new seeds to grow. You might hear a group of native Hawaiian people or the park ranger chanting during the sunrise to honor this sacred place, so photographing or filming them for your Instagram Stories might not be appropriate. Put your phone or camera down and just enjoy it.
4. The bike tour back down is not as cool as it sounds
This activity is really up to you, but you may regret getting on a bike and not opting for your warm car. Instead, pick out a trail in the park and spend some time hiking and soaking in the beauty of Haleakala on your own time, rather than waiting for others to catch up on a bike tour. Guided tours—and, frankly, other tourists—can be a tricky thing when you woke up at 2 a.m.
5. Don’t rush back to the beach
Devote this day to exploring Maui’s amazing upcountry. There are few places to visit on your way back from Haleakala. The Kula Botanical Gardens are right on your route, and the Alii Kula Lavender Farm is just a short detour. Make a stop at the Surfing Goat Dairy—it’s perfect to stroll around, feed some goats (especially if you’re traveling with kids), and stock up on delicious goat cheese for your next beach picnic. See Maui’s “cowboy town,” Makawao. The old western buildings are now home to galleries, shops, and restaurants.
This article originally appeared online in November 2016; it was updated on January 2, 2019, and then again on February 11, 2020, to include current information.
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