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On August 25, 1988, tragedy fell upon Lisbon: A huge fire turned Chiado to ruins, destroying 18 secular buildings. However, Chiado has come back to become the most elegant and trendy neighborhood in Lisbon. Fortunately, some buildings from the 18th century, a few of them renovated after the fire, still stand, remodeled by the Portuguese architect Siza Vieira. With a location on one of Lisbon’s seven hills, the neighborhood is full of old bookshops, theaters, international brands, and local fashion designers. Also, it’s a popular meeting spot for a dinner or a drink in Bairro Alto. Chiado’s streets are a symbol of the liberty of the revolution, since it was on the 25th of April, in 1974, that the Carnation Revolution would leave Largo do Carmo. Also it’s a neighborhood of intellectual life. The writers Fernando Pessoa and Eça de Queirós were habitués of the cafés.

What a wonderful location to stay in Lisbon—in the middle of an elegant neighborhood like Chiado and so close to the trendy Bairro Alto. A five-star boutique hotel, this place is full of charm and luxurious rooms spread across five floors, with views over Largo do Camões and the river. A building from the 18th century, this hotel, with décor by Portuguese designers, features dark wood furniture, mixing classic and contemporary. Visit the bar on the rooftop; it is one of the best spots for a drink with a view.

Open since 1905, A Brasileira was once the choice of Fernando Pessoa, the great Portuguese poet. You can sit beside him just outside, next to his bronze statue. Back in the day, this place was a hangout for writers, artists, and journalists. The location, in Garret Street, is great—just a step from the popular meet-up spot Largo de Camões. You can get there by subway (Baixa/Chiado Station), tram (Nº28), or on foot (go down Misericórdia Street, up Alecrim Street, or up Garret Street)—or come from one of the many streets of Bairro Alto).

With two shops very well located in two of the most visited neighborhoods, one at Chiado and the other at Bairro Alto, Bairro Arte sells crafts and design pieces created by young artists. Many of the pieces are connected to Lisbon in some way, for example a painting of Tram 28. But Bairro Arte is also a gallery, presenting contemporary art exhibitions, with paintings, photography, and sculptures that are sold at reasonable prices.

Lisbon Lovers, here is your souvenir stop. Here you can find calendars, T-shirts, magnets, city guides, and so on. The themes are sardines or the famous tram Nº28. The business is thriving, so they now have three shops: Shop 1: Praça do Príncipe Real, 28A Shop 2: Rua da Prata, 78 - Baixa Shop 3: Armazéns do Chiado, loja 5.08

I often go to Chiado for dinner, a drink, or a visit to Bertrand bookshop, and every time I pass the door of Paris em Lisboa I breathe deeply—so that I feel the wonderful smell that comes from this store. Founded in 1888, it was chosen by Queen Amélia to be the official supplier to the royal palace. In the 1930s, due to customers’ changing habits, it created a section for household items. Nowadays it sells bed, bath, kitchen and table linens, and other accessories.

Known for its handmade candles since 1789, the Casa das Velas do Loreto is located at top of Lisbon’s fashionable Chiado district, where you can still feel the deep scent of craftsmanship. The selection is quite as breath taking as the aroma of citrus, roses and pomegranate that was burning when I first visited this little wonder. The different dark brown tones of the wood that completely line the shop assert for its bespoke and warm welcoming identity. Rows and Rows of rainbow coloured candles come in an assortment of shapes and sizes depending on the season and what is being currently produced.

A perfect day at the beach should always include ice cream. If you’re visiting Cascais, a coastal town a short train ride from Lisbon, that means a trip to Santini’s. This iconic gelato shop with its red-and-white striped awnings and interiors has a line out the door most days. Attilio Santini, an Italian immigrant, started the original Santini’s in Praia do Tamariz in 1949. Today there are four outposts of the shop: Cascais, Estoril, Carcavelos, and the Chiado neighborhood of Lisbon. The recipe is still the original from 1949 and ingredients are always fresh and seasonal. There are more than two dozen flavors to choose from. I suggest ordering a medium so you can try three different ones. The fruit flavors are standouts, particularly the mango and fig.