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On August 25, 1988, tragedy fell upon Lisbon: A huge fire turned Chiado to ruins, destroying 18 secular buildings. However, Chiado has come back to become the most elegant and trendy neighborhood in Lisbon. Fortunately, some buildings from the 18th century, a few of them renovated after the fire, still stand, remodeled by the Portuguese architect Siza Vieira. With a location on one of Lisbon’s seven hills, the neighborhood is full of old bookshops, theaters, international brands, and local fashion designers. Also, it’s a popular meeting spot for a dinner or a drink in Bairro Alto. Chiado’s streets are a symbol of the liberty of the revolution, since it was on the 25th of April, in 1974, that the Carnation Revolution would leave Largo do Carmo. Also it’s a neighborhood of intellectual life. The writers Fernando Pessoa and Eça de Queirós were habitués of the cafés.

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With two shops very well located in two of the most visited neighborhoods, one at Chiado and the other at Bairro Alto, Bairro Arte sells crafts and design pieces created by young artists. Many of the pieces are connected to Lisbon in some way, for example a painting of Tram 28. But Bairro Arte is also a gallery, presenting contemporary art exhibitions, with paintings, photography, and sculptures that are sold at reasonable prices.

What a wonderful location to stay in Lisbon—in the middle of an elegant neighborhood like Chiado and so close to the trendy Bairro Alto. A five-star boutique hotel, this place is full of charm and luxurious rooms spread across five floors, with views over Largo do Camões and the river. A building from the 18th century, this hotel, with décor by Portuguese designers, features dark wood furniture, mixing classic and contemporary. Visit the bar on the rooftop; it is one of the best spots for a drink with a view.

I often go to Chiado for dinner, a drink, or a visit to Bertrand bookshop, and every time I pass the door of Paris em Lisboa I breathe deeply—so that I feel the wonderful smell that comes from this store. Founded in 1888, it was chosen by Queen Amélia to be the official supplier to the royal palace. In the 1930s, due to customers’ changing habits, it created a section for household items. Nowadays it sells bed, bath, kitchen and table linens, and other accessories.

If you are looking for tobacco, cigars, or smoking accessories, you should visit Casa Havaneza. You can find famous Cuban cigars like Cohiba and Montecristo, among others. However the shop has its own brand of cigarillos and pipe tobacco, the Havanezas. Founded by the Count of Burnay in 1864, this shop is located in the elegant neighborhood of Chiado. Even the royal family bought their cigars at Casa Havaneza.

One of Portugal’s oldest cosmetics companies, Claus Porto cemented a major comeback after Lisbon’s coolest store, A Vida Portuguesa, began carrying its products. In 2016, the company opened its own boutique in the trendy Chiado district, offering even more access to its eye-catching inventory. Packaged in art deco– and Belle Époque–style cases, the signature products look supremely cool as bed-and-bath decor. Of course, you could also buy the soaps, lotions, and shave creams for actual use. As an extra incentive, on Saturdays, men who spend more than €50 (around $60) receive an old-school hot shave in the barbershop at the store.

In spite of a world where nowadays every street is full of huge chain stores, we can still find treasures like this tiny shop. In the romantic Largo do Carmo, this charming shop is decorated in ‘50s style with red velvet sofas and classical stacked boxes. It sells exclusive and unique handmade shoes. The great quality of shoes made in Portugal is well known abroad. (The singer Rihanna designs shoes that are manufactured in the north of the country; Shakira wears Portuguese shoes; and, if you are fond of royalty, did you know that Princess Kate wore Portuguese shoes at her wedding?) Women can find heeled shoes or Oxford shoes (also known as men’s shoes). Men can find timeless classics. Everything sold is unique, trendy, and bold. After belonging to the same family for three generations, in February 2012 the shop was sold. But luckily, it was sold to another family!