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This centrally located 40-suite hotel is part of an ultramodern stone-clad residential complex on Lodhi Road, the main axis of the government bungalow quarter laid in the 1940s by the team of Edwin Lutyens, urban planner of the British Raj. No longer managed by the Aman chain, which opened the property in 2013, the hotel has become a bargain given the huge size of the rooms and unusually luxurious amenities such as gender-segregated Turkish hammams and a Pilates reformer studio. Each room has a balcony and private plunge pool, good for cooling off after a jog to the nearby Lodhi Gardens or a round of tennis on the hotel’s private grass courts. Sprawling across seven acres, the hotel offers serenity in spades and service equal to that of the far more bustling Delhi palace–style hotels. A library with rare books on India and a cigar lounge enhance the clublike atmosphere. The architecture recalls a modern art museum, and indeed the hotel is filled with contemporary works on loan from the Apparao Gallery in Chennai.

Above the charming chaos of the streets of Chennai, located on the roof top of the Park Hyatt lies the Antahpura Spa. From the dimly lit hallways and locally inspired Tamil-herbal essences and Chettinad therapies, you can all but forget about the city below. Out of it’s loft-style windows and from within it’s hot and cold plunge pools the breezes sway laundry of adjacent rooftops methodically while you slip in and out of steam and sauna rooms. Treatments are based on ancient Indian wellness remedies and massage therapists are strong and subtle in their approach. The spa is modern, impeccably clean and beautifully designed.

On January 26th India celebrates its independence. Throughout the country military, bands, dancers and schools take to it’s streets to parade in celebration. On the beach road at the very edge of the souther city of Chennai, lies Marina Beach. At 6:00am costumes, crowds, horns and uniformed men and women come together. Traditional snacks like sun dal and samosas are sold from large pots and baskets on the sidewalks to the city’s people and as the thunder of a helicopter filled with rose petals swoops overhead the procession begins. Arrive early to photograph the costumes, stay for the snacks and the parade. Viewing the actual show requires tickets, but the real color and vibrancy happens outside of the red-carpet area.

Located on the grounds of the vibrant campus of the Kalakshetra Foundation in late February, a national association of craftsmen come together from around India to sell their wares. In a sandy and shady corner of the campus, tents are set up, lights are strung and mats full of ceramics, baskets, bangles and textiles are laid out on display. Vendors sell chaat items in newspaper cones, coffee and tea and the stage at night comes to life with the music, dance and performance of Kalakshetra’s prized academy. The baazar comes and goes, but the craftsmen can be found roving different cities and states keeping traditions alive.

For nearly a month from mid April to mid May Kapaleeshwarar Temple, comes alive with it’s Spring Festival. Usually housed in a giant nondescript garage, tales of the “Four Story Temple Chariot” had teased me for months as I circled the temple exploring this already vibrant neighborhood. However, in late March, early in the festival, the temple car emerges swathed in fabric, flowers, white horses and priests. It is pushed, pulled and heaved around the temple tank by the village’s men. Using ropes, sticks and ramps the wooden wheels - each the height of a man - are coaxed around the four corners of the tank while thousands of worshipers make offerings and crowd into the streets to pray.

In the Tsunami of 2004 it is said that during Sunday morning mass the water slowly began to rise while the patrons raised their hands to the sky, water crept as hight as their chests and then suddenly, fell away again. Not all of the southern state of Tamil Nadu was so lucky, but visiting this beautiful white cathedral placed just meters from the shoreline a mighty presence can be felt. Home to the shrine of St. Thomas and the Christians of the neighboring fisherman’s village, “Santhome’s” doors stand open to the public and heart to it’s people.

Dosas, thalis, and tiffins! Saravana Bhavan specializes in South Indian cuisine. Each dosa comes with unlimited sambar and three chutneys - the tomato chutney being the house favorite. It is authentic, vegetarian, and very popular with the locals. Waits, especially on weekends, can be lengthy. Be sure and sample the Rava Masala Dosa, washed down with fresh lime juice.