Seoul

South Korea’s capital city is a living, breathing mashup of history and modernity. Centuries-old courtyards hug the roots of brand-new high-rises, and traditional teashops vie with Starbucks for customers. You’ll find this contrast everywhere: from the glitz and glamour of the Gangnam district (which the world now knows thanks to Korean pop star Psy’s massive hit song “Gangnam Style”) to the grand, tranquil palaces of the Jongno area. The dynamic capital burgeons with inventive restaurants, galleries, and boutiques. Having rebuilt after the Korean War and hosted the world for the 1988 Summer Olympics, Seoul has now emerged as one of eastern Asia’s most vibrant cities.

SEOUL, KOREA - DECEMBER 31, 2016 -    Colorful billboards on the street of Seoul

Photo By DiegoMariottini/Shutterstock

Overview

When’s the best time to go to Seoul?

Seoul’s humid subtropical climate has four distinct seasons, and there is no official off-season. Some say that the city is at its best in the spring when cherry blossoms bloom, while others prefer fall, when leaves turn into a fiery mass of red, gold, and brown. Winters can be brutal, but they lend the capital city a whitewashed beauty. Summer temperatures often rise into the 90s, with rain falling during the late-summer typhoon period. No matter when you visit, however, there’s plenty to do both indoors and out.

How to get around Seoul

Incheon International Airport is located in the city of Incheon, about 50 miles from downtown Seoul. The fastest way to Seoul is via the Airport Railroad Express train: It’s a bargain, at under $10, and you’ll be in the heart of Seoul in precisely 43 minutes. Buses (also $10) and taxis (at least $70) are available as well, if you are prepared to battle Seoul’s legendary traffic.

The Seoul subway is vast, yet easy to navigate. You pay by distance, and most rides cost between $1 and $2. Aboveground buses roll to every corner of the city for prices that range between $.75 and $2, depending on the route. It’s easy to find taxis waiting on every corner.

Tip: When hailing a taxi on the street, it’s more polite to flag it with your hand facing down, not up. Seoul is well connected to the rest of South Korea with excellent transportation options including high-speed trains.

Can’t miss things to do in Seoul

The N Seoul Tower rises from atop Namsan Mountain in the center of the city. Look for it to get your geographical bearings, or better yet, take the cable car to the top to get 360-degree views—on a clear day, you can see all the way to North Korea.

Food and drink to try in Seoul

Until relatively recently, it was unusual to find anything but strictly Korean fare in Seoul. While thousands of authentic Korean restaurants continue to serve up staples such as kimchi, galbi, and bibimbap, it has become easier to find Mexican, Italian, Indian, and Thai options as well. Street food is available on practically every corner, and you can fill your belly with dumplings, rice cakes, or deep-fried veggies for less than $5.

When it comes to drinks, cocktails and wine are growing in popularity but soju (a vodka-like distilled rice liquor) and beer rule. And did we mention that Seoulites love coffee? Every street is now peppered with cafes, from huge chains like Angel-in-Us to small independent shops.

Culture in Seoul

Seoul offers classic beauty in the form of countless palaces, courtyards, and other royal property that has survived the city’s modernization process. The city’s energetic art, fashion, design, and architecture scenes earned it a UNESCO World Design Capital designation in 2010, and you’ll encounter contemporary culture in galleries, boutiques, and public art installations.

Korea is a country that celebrates tradition, and the numerous local festivals are a testament to the people’s immense national pride. The Fireworks Festival lights up the sky over the Han River in October and the Lantern Festival brings a gorgeous glow to the banks of Cheonggyecheon Stream in November, but no matter when you go, your visit will likely coincide with some sort of celebration. In addition to classic and historic culture, Seoul is known for its style, boy bands, and a quickly shifting pop culture. Dip your toe into the scene with a Seoul Night Tour in Hip Hongdae from AFAR’s walking tour partner, Context.

Local travel tips for Seoul

Navigating your way through Korea, with it’s challenging-to-decipher Hangul alphabet, can be daunting. Fortunately, most signs in Seoul are also written in English, and many locals will be eager to help you find your way and practice their English. Visitors, remember this phone number: 1330. It’s the English-speaking tourist help line. The operators will help you with whatever you need, be it train schedules or directions to the nearest movie theater. Don’t hesitate to call day or night, no matter how silly you think your question is. They’ve heard it all.

Guide Editor

Leslie Patrick is a freelance writer who splits her time between South Korea and a nomadic life of slow traveling around the globe. Leslie writes about travel, culture and lifestyle, and her work has been published in Salon, Marie Claire (UK and Australia editions), Islands, Travel + Leisure, Monocle, United Airlines’ Hemispheres Magazine and various English language publications in Korea.

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RESOURCES TO HELP PLAN YOUR TRIP
K-Beauty is big business, and Olive Young, one of Korea’s most popular beauty shops purveys products not only from Korea, but France, the US, and Japan among many other locales. This cavernous emporium sells lip balms, nose hair scissors and everything in between. A visit to this buzzing temple of beauty is never a dull moment, as fresh-faced Koreans pour over myriad products promising to whiten and brighten, moisturize and de-frizz. At the hopping Myeongdong location, shoppers can experiment with cosmetics in the Get It Beauty Zone, sample over 40 scents at the Perfume Bar, and break for a snack in the K-Food Zone. 53 Myeongdong-gil, Jung-gu
If you’re looking for a way to while away a rainy afternoon, head over to Mapo-gu and pop into the quaint boutique Object. This whimsical store is a shopper’s delight, and offers a wide array of stationery and jewelry designed by local artists, plus dishes, hats, bags, and even teddy bears and typewriters. Since the shop works on a consignment basis, the product selection is ever-changing, making it entirely worthwhile and necessary to return frequently, preferably with healthy wad of won in your wallet. 400-1 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu
Celebrity florist Nicolai Bergmann’s famed flower box is the number one seller at his shop in the Four Season’s Seoul. The Danish floral designer’s shop in Tokyo has been dedicated to European and Japanese floral design principals for the last 10 years, and the recently opened shop in Seoul is no exception. Other than the elegant, innovative flower boxes, the shop sells colorful bouquets, as well as luxurious arrangements for birthdays, parties and weddings. The flowers are so beautiful, even if you’re just passing through Seoul, you may be tempted to make a purchase—even if it’s just to decorate your hotel room for the night. The Four Seasons Seoul, 1F, 97 Saemunan-ro, Jongno-gu
Perhaps the most medically-minded of Korean beauty brands (or at least with packaging and stores that look that way), Mediheal products are said to promote clean and healthy skin, and are supposedly recommended by primary care physicians. The sterile looking location on the Myeongdong shopping street has a hospital-like feel, and the staff is very knowledgeable about caring for skin that is dry, oily or otherwise a problem. Mask sheets come in packaging that resembles capsules or IV bags, and there are other clever gimmicks such as BB cream that comes with what looks like a miniature paint roller—to apply the cream of course. Myeongdong Shopping Street
Step through a flower shop and into this swanky bar in the buzzing Gangnam area and you’ll forget you’re in a major Asian capital city—you’ll think you’ve fallen down a rabbit hole and ended up in an English country manor. With dark wood accents, chandeliers and tufted footstools, you’ll wish you had a tweed hat and a pipe, but what you can have is a fine scotch or a gin and tonic to occupy your hands. Choose a drink from the signature cocktail list, which are served in whimsical glasses, then press a button which makes another drink magically appear. It it’s a whimsical, eclectic evening you’re after, it’s time to introduce yourself to Alice. 47, Dosandaero 55-gil, Gangnam-gu
Addresses in Seoul are notoriously difficult to figure out, and that combined with the countless number of unmarked alleys makes finding even the most popular hangouts a challenge. Finding the unmarked door of one of Seoul’s coolest speakeasies isn’t easy, but it’s worth it, as the unassuming door opens to reveal a trendy bar with a dark wood interior that specializes in craft beer and single malt whisky. It’s the only bar of its kind in Gangnam, as most of the craft beer places are located in the more international neighborhood of Itaewon, so leave early to ensure you get there in time to nab a good seat. Eonjuro 134-gil, Gangnam-gu
There are some bars where you walk in and you can just tell it’s a serious place where the drinks are stiff and the bartenders know their Negronis from their French 75s. Craft cocktails are on the rise in Seoul, and a great place to go for the real deal is SAHM. An acronym for Strong of Heart and Mind, this sophisticated yet unpretentious place on a side street off Apgujeong’s, Rodeo Drive is where aficionados and those craving true craft cocktails can go without disappointment. The low lighting and black clad staff add to the contemplative atmosphere. Needless to say, don’t be afraid to ask for more unusual selections. 5-6, Apgujeong-ro 46-gil, Gangnam-gu
In a sleek, black brick building lies C27 Cheesecake & Coffee, a trendy café where chicly dressed Koreans take selfies as they sip cappuccinos amidst the whimsical interiors (the entire third floor has been transformed into faux kitchen Architectural Digest would be proud of). A glass case at the entrance displays—you guessed it—27 varieties of cheesecake, from the classic original, to flavors like green tea, Dutch apple, and marshmallow chocolate options. Hang out and choose from the surprising wine selection, or take your cheesecake to go, and they’ll wrap it in an adorable, cheese shaped box. 39, Dosan-daero 15-gil, Gangnam-gu
Founded by five friends who missed the taste of craft beer so decided to brew their own after moving to Seoul, this laid back brewery has become a magnet for beer lovers in Korea’s capital. There’s a location in Hongdae, but the original in Itaewon is still the place to be, where classics like porter and pale ale are served up in a the laid-back, industrial-chic space that also hosts regular concerts, classes, and food and drink workshops. Magpie also offers a small menu that includes pizza considered to be some of the best in Itaewon—just sayin’. 244-1 Noksapyeong-daero, Yongsan-gu
Despite the fact that speakeasies of the prohibition age were illegal, their illicit nature created an allure that drew people in—never mind getting arrested. Nowadays, speakeasies are a sophisticated trend, and fortunately, visiting one doesn’t involve the possibility of jail time. Good thing, because it would be a pity to miss out on Charles H., the decadent, speakeasy themed cocktail bar on the lower level of the Four Seasons Hotel Seoul. Named after American cocktail writer Charles H. Baker, the menu features concoctions found by the cocktail connoisseur on his world travels, and showcases interiors meant to resemble the subterranean New York of a bygone era. Like a true speakeasy, there are no signs leading the way to the hidden door, but chances are an accommodating hotel employee may be able to provide a hint. 97 Saemunan-ro,Jongno-gu, Seoul