Vienna

Imperial architecture and Old World charm invite visitors to explore Vienna’s streets, where musicians with violins play Mozart to patrons of outdoor cafés. Take a carriage ride on cobblestone avenues, through towering palace gates, past lofty Gothic churches buttressed by diminutive baroque houses with their chic shops. Step out at the center of the Holy Roman Empire and into the regal winter residence of the Hapsburgs for over 600 years. Don’t miss the Imperial Treasury, home to the Spear of Destiny, the lance that reputedly pierced the side of Jesus as he hung on the cross.

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Photo By Sandro Gonzalez/Unsplash

Overview

Can’t miss things to do in Vienna

Unlike many cities, Vienna has a true city center, with a key landmark as its centerpiece: the towering gothic cathedral known as Stephansdom, which dates to 1339. The city center, known as the 1st District, is an imperial village featuring most of the city’s great attractions: the Hapsburg Palace, impressive art museums (including The Albertina, Fine Arts, and Leopold), and the Spanish Riding School—home to the prancing white Lipizzaner stallions. The city of music and culture demands a visit to the Opera House. And for a literal overview of the city, ride the famous Riesenrad Ferris Wheel or climb the many spiraling steps to the top of Stephansdom for a lookout on the garden-terraced rooftops gracing the city.

Food and drink to try in Vienna

Viennese gastronomy is satisfying, whether you’re looking for hearty fare or haute cuisine. Try the famous Wiener Schnitzel at Figlmuller (“home of the schnitzel”), or sample bratwurst at street stands. Other traditional and filling favorites include Hungarian goulash and roasted pork, washed down with local microbrewery beer. Trendy restaurants offer contemporary interpretations of classic Austrian cuisine. Dishes featuring wild game dominate the menu at Wild, and Wrenkh serves only fresh, locally grown ingredients. An amazing variety of whole grain breads dominate bakery shelves. Austrian wine culture is highly developed; buy a bottle at Wein & Co. For dessert, have a slice of Sachertorte at one of Vienna’s many historic cafés.

Culture in Vienna

Vienna gave birth to some of the world’s most beloved musicians and artists, Mozart and Klimt among them, but the city isn’t resting on its cultural laurels. Art exhibits and cultural performances continue to break boundaries; take, for example, the 2013 Leopold Museum exhibit, Nude Men, where even the onlookers themselves were without clothing. Street musicians have been known to bring concert pianos to the street to play to passersby. Vienna is a virtual open-air museum, where the stunning architecture is nonetheless dwarfed by the spectacular art within. Of course, if your tastes tend toward the classical, a performance at State Opera is not to be missed.

Vienna’s enthusiasm for the Art Nouveau movement of art, design, and architecture is still evident throughout the city. Context, AFAR’s travel partner, offers a walking tour led by an art historian or architectect, Vienna 1900: The Golden Age of Art Nouveau, that explores the lavish style and the imprint it left in the city’s museums and on its streets.

Shopping

The most elegant of designer shops—Chanel, Gucci, and Hermes—are located on the pedestrian streets of Kartnerstrasse, Graben, and Kohlmarkt in the 1st District. Interspersed among them are famous cafés such as Hawelka and Demel, as well as restaurants and parks like the Rose Garden and Stadtpark, where you can rest and consider your purchases. Wander up to the Mariahilferstrasse for less expensive shops; here, you’ll find clothing, music, housewares, and more. If you’re visiting on Saturday, Naschmarkt, which dates to the 16th century, is famous for its flea market and antiques. The food section of Naschmarkt is open throughout the week, with many little stalls to choose from. Note that nearly all shops are closed on Sunday.

Practical Information

- Vienna is lovely any time of year. Spring, summer, and fall each have their own particular charms; winter, while quite cold, still attracts plenty of visitors, thanks to the city’s Christmas market and New Year’s Eve celebration.
- The official language of Austria is German, though nearly half the population speaks English well.
- The currency is the euro.
- Vienna International Airport receives flights from abroad and is just 11 miles from the city itself.
- You’ll likely need an adapter for your electronics, as Austria is 230 volts with F socket plugs.

Guide Editor

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Perhaps “boiled beef in broth” doesn’t sound quite as alluring as its German name of Tafelspitz. Yet Tafelspitz was the preferred meal of Emperor Franz Joseph, and it remains a favorite Viennese dish. There’s one establishment, Plachutta, that has cornered the market on fine Tafelspitz; the eponymous gastronome Mario Plachutta has raised his preparation of the modest rump cut served with roasted potatoes, minced apples, and horseradish to a gourmet level. The main restaurant sits on the popular Wollzeile shopping street just a block from the Ringstrasse, but the chef has also built a mini empire of jade-toned Plachutta restaurants—including one in a lovely Biedermeier cottage and another near the Schönbrunn Palace in Hietzing.
Don’t let the umlaut throw you off. Vestibül restaurant occupies an original vestibule in the Burgtheater, known for having one of Vienna’s most gorgeous interiors. And the space is not just any vestibule, but includes both the porte cochere for the Hapsburg coaches that would arrive at this famous imperial theater and the marble-lined hallway leading to the guests’ private loges. Located across from City Hall on the Ringstrasse, Vestibül is under the guidance of one of Austria’s most celebrated chefs, Christian Domschitz. His menu is not flashy, but rather rests on superb takes on traditional dishes, such as his signature Hummerkrautfleisch—creamy cabbage with lobster.
Don’t even think about leaving Vienna without having at least one schnitzel dinner. Sure, you can find the crispy breaded veal and pork cuts at restaurants all over town, but where you want to go is to Figlmüller, where the pork schnitzels are a good foot in diameter and spill over the edge of the plate. Just minutes from Stephansdom cathedral, the original, rustic Figlmüller is tucked into a narrow shopping gallery between streets. Just outside the passageway, the Figlmüller family’s sister restaurant Lugeck opened in 2014 with upscale cuisine served in a gorgeous art nouveau building. Its interior is done in a contemporary beechwood look, and its front terrace looks right at a towering statue of Gutenberg on Lugeck Square.
With glass walls that can soar as high as 50 feet, Palmenhaus is dramatic, but it’s also a quiet and calm place smack in the heart of Hapsburg-era Vienna. As the name suggests, the Palmenhaus is a greenhouse of the variety that nations of the 19th century were so good at creating to show off palms and other exotic plants plucked from the colonies. And thanks to a $17 million renovation in the 1990s, yes, Palmenhaus still has palm trees and tropical flora, as well as a lepidopterarium, or butterfly house. As Vienna’s palm house looks over the lush Burggarten park, its broad terrace makes for the ultimate spot to sit under sunny skies and sip a riesling or quaff a beer. On summer Fridays, DJs and live musicians perform.
As if floor-to-ceiling Inner City views from an 18th-floor space weren’t enough, the 21,500-square-foot illuminated ceiling by Swiss artist Pipilotti Rist will wow you at Das Loft restaurant. With strict historic preservation building codes long in place that dictated nothing be built higher than the city’s iconic Stephansdom cathedral tower, Vienna was rather late to the game of splashy starchitect buildings. In 2010, however, Jean Nouvel’s Sofitel Vienna Stephansdom opened across the Danube Canal, an area that had been plagued by banal postwar stucco buildings. Now, guests at the hotel’s Das Loft penthouse and panoramic restaurant can not only enjoy beautiful urban vistas, but a popping cocktail scene and modern takes on Austrian dishes.
When you’re looking for a fun night out, why not opt for one right on the Danube? The chic Motto am Fluss restaurant is located within the terminal for the Danube Canal ferries, but it’s like no dock you’ve ever seen before. The futuristic and super-bright space looks like a sleek cruise ship itself. On the lower level, the restaurant, with its black-and-white-checkered floor and silver orb lamps, reflects Venetian influences. Here, you can linger over breakfast in the café until 4 p.m. In warmer months when the weather is good, the terrace is the place for cocktails or biodynamic Austrian wines. On weekends, DJs add to the already-high cool factor in the trendy riverside spot.
Not only a star in Vienna, but on the world culinary scene, Steirereck is also breaking new ground architecturally. A few years ago, the restaurant, situated in a landmark art nouveau building amid the leafy Stadtpark, unveiled a futuristic redo. Blond wood and a white contoured ceiling now accent the new blocklike spaces which extend outward and whose reflective facade highlights the surrounding parkland. Showcasing chiefly recipes from the Styria province, fixed menus include novelties like char with beeswax, yellow carrot, pollen, and sour cream, while the cheese carts offer a selection of the more than 100 varieties available here. During the meal, a detailed menu card delivered between courses provides information about the dishes you are enjoying. The building’s lower-level Meierei im Stadtpark restaurant is a more casual dining option.
It’s the wine. It’s not just the small houses with baroque detailing, or the cobblestoned streets with old trams that wind their way up the Vienna Woods foothills, that make Grinzing the most popular of all of the former villages that have been absorbed into present-day Vienna. The city has by some counts more urban vineyards than anywhere else in the world, and Grinzing’s famous Heurige (wine taverns) draw big crowds. The proprietors of Zum Martin Sepp, across from the parish church, welcome visitors to their cozy courtyard and tavern rooms. Guests enjoy Austrian specialties such as the Kaiserschmarrn pancake dessert and drink house grüner veltliner and other wines, while swaying to musicians wielding the signature folk accordion and playing old Viennese drinking songs.
Berggasse 19 is the address of a modest house on a modest street, but it was there that much of the modern world and culture were changed forever. For nearly 50 years, the Freud house—now, officially, the Sigmund Freud Museum—was the home and office of the legendary psychoanalyst, until 1938 when he finally departed for London as Nazi forces were descending on Vienna. The rooms are filled with old books, antiques, personal artifacts, and correspondence, though not the famous couch (which is now at the Freud museum in London). In 2019, the house will undergo a yearlong €4 million renovation to its facade and exhibition spaces. If you walk the Ringstrasse over to the Burgtheater area, you can see the University of Vienna that was once the General Hospital where Herr Professor worked for many years.
Those who just stumble upon the Hundertwasserhaus apartments in the Third District will likely be wowed by the buildings. Friedensreich Hundertwasser’s funky, mid-1980s organic housing complex is weird and gorgeous with a wavy, eclectically painted facade that looks like something out of a cartoon. With trees growing on its terraces and roof, it’s the antithesis of staid imperial Vienna. A freethinker if there ever was one, the artist, architect, and environmentalist Hundertwasser could be called Austria’s Gaudí. Visitors can learn more about him in the ground-floor café. Nearby, Hundertwasser designed the Kunst Haus Wien art museum out of an old Thonet furniture factory, while up the Danube Canal an incineration plant’s chimney got the Hundertwasser treatment with trippy colors and a funky golden ball on top.