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A solo traveler shares why loneliness is an essential part of traveling alone.

The traditional Kerala “slow food” dish is so delicious it warrants a bit of patience.

To Stephanie Lawrence and Aashi Vel, the founders of Traveling Spoon, food is the focal point of their travels. They share some of their favorite food adventures.

Love architecture? Then you’ll want to know about these hotels.

Overview

India boasts many traditional regional dance forms, but kathakali, with its elaborate, colorful costumes and masks is undoubtedly one of the most distinctive. With roots going back to ancient Hindu temple plays (some think as far back as the 2nd century), kathakali, now the state dance of Kerala, evolved into its current dance-drama format in the 17th century, under the direction of the Rajah of Kottarakkara, who took the performances out of the temples and palaces and directly to the villages. Founded in 1990, this noted center honors kathakali—as well as Indian classical music, and other traditional arts—with nightly performances, 365 days a year. The kathakali shows are usually about 90 minutes, and include a informative demonstration; come an hour early to watch the actors undergo the elaborate makeup and costuming process.

You needn’t look far to find the sources of Kerala’s cuisine, only as far as those green fields and forests and the proximity of the ocean. Restaurant and teahouse tables are laden with fresh fish and vegetables, local teas, and rice grown nearby. To your health!

The thrilling variety of experiences in Kerala—visits to forts, spice plantations, and temples, ayurvedic spa treatments, days spent on Arabian Sea beaches or boating backwaters—make it clear you have traveled far from home. And that you will return home changed.

Along with stylish boutiques and design shops, the narrow lanes of the upscale Khan Market are lined with all manner of eateries, from cafés and cocktail bars to food stalls and fusions restaurants. As of late 2018, the roster also includes Sly Granny, which arrived on a wave of buzz generated from its original Bengaluru location. Through this often-packed bi-level outpost is smaller than the sprawling first location, the concept here is the same: a space “inherited” from a mythical globetrotting grandmother and inspired by her favorite recipes and eclectic style. Here, that translates to a décor of plush velvet sofas, old cookbooks, and crystal bric-a-brac, statement tableware, and bold, quirky artwork in the snug dining room, plus a cozy upstairs bar that converts to a cocktail lounge come dark. Drinks there range from the creative (crafted with ingredients like elderflower, yogurt, or honey-ginger syrup) to the classic (twists on G&Ts and Pimm’s cups), not unlike the style of the food menu below, which starts with pastas, steaks, and burgers, then veers towards tacos, schnitzel, chicken liver pâté, and Kerala-style fish moilee. You won’t need a granny’s encouragement to eat up dishes like bacon-gruyere mac-and-cheese balls, house-cured salmon, chocolate lava cake, and a twist on grilled cheese with ricotta, onion jam, tomato chutney, and two kinds of chilies.

After two weeks of being held hostage by the urban chaos of Mumbai and Kochi, I was in serious need of sensory detoxification. I hired a car and driver and went 250 kilometers south of Kochi to a small coastal village called Poovar. There flows the Neyyar River and a few places where you can hire a boat to cruise the backwaters that feed the Neyyar. Once you’re on the backwaters, it’s just you, the boat captain, some kingfishers, some cormorants and a duck or two. On my two hour boat cruise, I could count the number of people we crossed paths with on my two hands. Pure tranquility and relaxation! A gentle breeze will take you along narrow channels of water lined with coconut palms; fronds gently waving in the air. The Neyyar empties out into an estuary where the coconut palms give way to mangroves and you’ll find yourself drifting under the cool shade of the trees. Eventually, you end up at the point where the estuary flows into the Arabian Sea. You can take a break from the boat ride with a walk on the beach to watch the pounding waves of the sea crashing onto shore. Poovar is located about 15 km south of Thiruvananthapuram (formerly known as Trivandrum), the state capital of Kerala. There are plenty of places to stay, either in Poovar or in Thiruvananthapuram. The boat cruise company that I hired my cruise from was Leela Backwater Craze (http://leelabackwaters.com/). They have various boating options that you can choose from.

Spice Route is a heavenly experience where deep colors meet exotic spices. Located in the grand Imperial Hotel, I found the restaurant to be one of the most visually stunning places I’ve ever seen. Restaurants in 5-star hotels are generally known to display lavish and extravagant decor, but this restaurant is on a whole new level. It feels as if you have walked into a dark forest with rich gold branches and heavenly waterfalls, and a pervasive aroma of mysterious spices to match. It’s an escape into nature. And it’s not as if the stunning decor is trying to compensate for the poor quality of food. The food is absolutely scrumptious, offering food from all the places that fell under the ancient spice route, from the Malabar Coast of Kerala to the shores of Thailand. I think it’s one of the very few restaurants in Delhi that has amazing Keralan food. The restaurant is really romantic, making it a perfect place for a date. It is very upscale and they are quite serious about implementing a strict dress code. It’s even rated as one of the top restaurants by Condé Nast Traveler. It’s not just a restaurant, it’s an experience!

Rest your tired legs, read a book, engage in discussions with world travelers, sip your coffee or simply admire the art without anyone waiting for you to vacate the table. Kashi Art Café feels like an airy tropical garden that doubles as a hip and relaxed meeting place with an interesting gallery showcasing the works of talented artists. If you want to know what’s happening in Fort Cochin, chances are you’ll see all the information you need on posters in the café! As far as the food goes, breakfast is served through the day. If you’re hungry try a variety of sandwiches, salads, and soups for lunch, or snack on their freshly made cakes and pies with, of course, a cup of coffee or tea!

Set high on a hill overlooking mist-shrouded mountains and cascading tea plantations, Fragrant Nature is a remote escape that’s as sybaritic as it is serene. The resort’s west-facing orientation makes it particularly stunning at sunset, a fact acknowledged by floor-to-ceiling windows in the rainbow-hued guest rooms; there’s also a telescope in the lobby for those who don’t want to miss a single ray. Of course, what you do in the hours leading up to then is entirely up to you. Settle down with an Ayurvedic massage in the spa, hire the hotel’s jeep to spot endangered nilgiri tahr (a relative of the ibex) nearby in Eravikulam National Park, or take in a Keralan folk dance performance at the on-site Tryst Woods Amphitheater. There are also two restaurants, one with regular buffets complemented by à la carte Indian and international offerings, and a second grill restaurant focusing on meat-based dishes. Whichever combination of activities you choose, be sure to end your day back in your room, where fireplaces keep things cozy on cooler nights.

Green might be a buzzword for some, but it’s the rootstock of Jake’s, the 49-room Bohemian hideaway on Jamaica’s Treasure Beach. Sprung from the fertile imagination of owner-artist Sally Henzell and established as a restaurant in 1991, Jake’s has gradually expanded. Now you can spend the night in quirky cottages where seashell-and-rock walls assure privacy in outdoor showers, recycled bottles simulate stained glass, and twig awnings provide shade. Henzell and her family have always been good neighbors, contributing to the construction of local classrooms and establishing a sports park. Now, monthly full-moon harvest dinners bring guests to a nearby family farm for locavore meals in the most delicious expression of the resort’s community values. From $95. (877) 526-2428, jakeshotel.com. This story appeared in the November/December 2011 issue.

For those who love a chicken tikka or a lamb rogan josh, Britain is a famously fulfilling destination, with some of the best Indian food you’ll find outside, well, India. The curryhouses on Brick Lane will ladle out masalas and rice until your belly’s ready to burst, but for a different take, try Dishoom, which operates in five different London locations (and Edinburgh) and specialises in the finger food of Mumbai’s Irani cafés: a fabulous array of grills and snacks, from the delicious lamb kebab to the moreish keema pav (minced lamb or chicken), served on a bun in an environment that recreates the décor of the colonial railways. If you can make it here for breakfast, the bacon naan roll or the spicy scrambled eggs are the perfect way to set up your day.