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In the Adriatic Sea’s largest peninsula, esteemed journalist Mark Bittman finds out what it really means to “eat local.”

Overview

While Dalmatia often gets the spotlight, the heart-shaped peninsula of Istria (on the northern end of Croatia’s Adriatic coast) is also worthy of exploration. Food lovers in particular flock to the region for its award-winning cuisine and abundance of fresh ingredients—Istria is home to Croatia’s first Michelin-starred restaurant, Monte, as well as some of the country’s best wineries. Those willing to dive even deeper will find UNESCO World Heritage sites, spectacular parks, postcard-worthy coastal towns, medieval hilltop settlements, and a cobalt sea full of Adriatic dolphins.

Of Croatia’s 10 UNESCO World Heritage sites, the most fascinating range from the famed Old Town of Dubrovnik and Diocletian’s Palace in Split, to the historic core of Trogir, the Euphrasian Basilica in Istria, and the masterful Cathedral of St. James in Šibenik. On the nature front, there’s Plitvice Lakes National Park, a wonder so stunning it simply can’t be skipped.

Long lunches on sun-dappled terraces, wine tastings in rolling vineyards, dinners created around the freshest possible fish: The Dalmation Coast is blessed with a bounty of local products – peppery olive oil, Istrian ham, artisan cheeses, and of course the seafood – and the perfect setting to enjoy them in.

This southern Italy itinerary sails between Venice and Rome exploring the Amalfi Coast, Sicily, and gems of Croatia and Montenegro.

Whether you want to learn the secret to filleting fish, cook a traditional Istrian dish like žgvacet, or explore the peninsula’s top wineries, look no further than Eat Istria, run by food blogger Goran Zgrablić. The outfitter picks guests up in Pula and brings them to a family farm between Medulin and the village of Ližnjan, where they can enjoy a highly personalized cooking class on dishes like handmade Istrian pastas, or simply have a marenda (light lunch) in an olive grove. If you wish to travel farther afield, Zgrablić can also arrange for tours of Istria’s small, family-run wine cellars.

I am having a mad love affair with Croatia (Ssshhh, don’t tell France.) In particular, its heart-shaped peninsula Istria that juts into the north Adriatic Sea. Istria is Croatia’s culinary gut, and I make the easy a 2.5-hour drive from the capital, Zagreb to this compact region overflowing with truffles, seafood, wild-asparagus, and some of the most celebrated olive oil and wine in the world. Mix in a Mediterranean climate and a proclivity for la dolce vita, and Istria transforms from a place on a map into a lifestyle I can get behind. At the designated wine route signs found all over Istria, I turn right. Eventually the signs disappear. I’m in search of Piquentum, a winery in the village of Buzet, and its winemaker, Dimitri Brečević, who I’d met the week before. I pull over to ask for directions. “I’ve never heard of it or him,” is the pedestrian’s response. The elusive winery is actually this unmarked WWII-era water cistern carved into the hills below the village, and when I finally arrive and tell him the story, Brečević laughs. “You should have asked for The Frenchman. They all know me as that.” Born to a Croatian father and French mother Brečević is one of the few “natural” winemakers in Istria, using techniques that insist on minimal intervention. He uses indigenous Istrian Malvasia grapes, which produce an easy to drink white wine, and red Teran and Refošk grapes. We taste each in straight from the barrel. I heart Istria. Visit: phone +385 91 527 5 976

The sixth-largest Roman amphitheater still standing today, the Pula Arena is Croatia’s most magnificent classical monument—and reason enough to check out Pula, Istria’s main city. Built in the 1st century C.E. during the rule of Emperor Vespasian, this oval-shaped stunner once hosted gladiator fights and could hold up to 23,000 spectators. Today, visitors can roam freely through the small underground chambers and enjoy the sweeping ocean views. During the summer months, the arena doubles as the most imposing stage in all of Croatia, hosting several concerts and film festivals.

If you want to check out a real-deal agritourism operation (a family-run working farm), Tončić is the top choice. Located in a hilly hamlet in Istria’s bucolic interior, the farm not only has panoramic views of Čićarija mountain and the Mirna river valley, but also serves up succulent lamb and potatoes, roasted under peka (a traditional, dome-shaped baking lid). While most people come for the lamb, you should also try the handcrafted pastas, Istrian prosciutto, and dishes featuring game meat, truffles, and wild asparagus. The terrace is a lovely spot to linger over a meal, but should the weather not cooperate, the rustic interior with a fireplace is equally cozy. Be sure to make a reservation ahead of time.

On the steep hills above the truffle-obsessed town of Livade in central Istria, Croatia, a man named Vlado Tomažič makes olive oil on his family’s farm. When my husband and I rented the apartment, Casa Maršić (casamarsic.com), adjacent to the farmhouse, we found it the perfect base for exploring the nearby medieval hill towns. We visited Motovun-Montona and Oprtalj-Portole, where we ate fuži, traditional Istrian pasta, with fresh mushrooms and grilled lamb chops at the fantastic Tončić agritourism (agroturizam-toncic.com). We happened to be at the farm during the October harvest and helped Vlado’s friendly crew rake the olives from the trees, taking frequent breaks for gemišt—white wine and sparkling water. Classic Journeys offers seven-night tours of Istria. This appeared in the August/September 2014 issue.

Ahhhh truffles!The funky, pungent fungi that are worth a fortune.The Karlic Estate located near the village of Paladini in Central Istria is one incredible destination. In addition to being able to sample truffle-centric dishes, the Karlic Estate offers truffle scavenging excursions (RELEASE THE HOUNDS!!). Bring shoes and clothes that you don’t mind getting dirty because the woods around the area are thick and often muddy. The Karlic family and their employees are a wealth of knowledge and are ready to answer any and every question relating to truffles you can think of. I highly recommend the scrambled eggs topped with fresh cheese and shaved truffle, a dish that will shock your taste buds. Colin Roohan traveled to Croatia courtesy of Croatian National Tourist Board, Istria Tourist Board, Split Dalmatia County Tourist Board, VBT Bicycling and Walking Vacations and Delta Air Lines. His highlights are part of AFAR’s partnership with The United States Tour Operators Association (USTOA), whose members provide travelers with unparalleled access, insider knowledge, peace-of-mind, value and freedom to enjoy destinations across the entire globe. See more about Colin’s trip at the USTOA blog

Some of the most fun you can have in Istria involves roaming the forests around the medieval town of Motovun with the Karlić family, hunting for truffles. Based in a tiny village near Buzet, the Karlićs have been in business since the 1960s—the third generation runs things today—and are veritable experts when it comes to finding both white and black truffles. During the family’s two-hour truffle-hunting experience, guests get to learn all about the tradition, the variety of truffles found in Istria, and the dogs trained to sniff for treasure underneath ancient oak trees. Plus, they get to taste a variety of different truffle products.

Not only does Humska Konoba have a covered terrace with dazzling views of Istria’s hill-strewn hinterland, but the restaurant is also located in one of the world’s smallest towns and serves some of the most honest, delicious Istrian cuisine you’ll find anywhere on the peninsula. Whether you opt for hand-rolled fuži (Istrian pasta), maneštra (a rich, local take on minestrone), or a fritaja (an omelet with truffles or wild asparagus in spring), you’re in for a treat at this hilltop favorite. Pair your meal with a shot of humska biska (mistletoe grappa) or a glass of Istrian teran (red) or malvazija (white) wine, then stick around to take in the marvelous vistas.

Set amid olive groves and vineyards in the middle of the Istrian countryside, this typical stancija (homestead) is small—it has just four rooms and suites—but delightful. It first opened as an exclusive restaurant serving regional cuisine, wines from its own vineyard (one of Istria’s most renowned), and single-sort extra-virgin olive oils (made from indigenous olives and lauded for their quality). As its reputation grew, however, Meneghetti transformed into a boutique hideaway with rustic rooms—and a Relais & Châteaux designation, to boot. Lounge on the series of outdoor terraces, swim in the indoor and outdoor pools, and dine on creative dishes like bream sashimi and lamb chops with stuffed zucchini.