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San Juan Cemetery lies on the coast adjacent to El Morro (San Juan’s beloved fort) and nestled in the district La Perla, a rougher part of town. Its statues and tombs make it as beautiful as a New Orleans cemetery. Exiting El Morro, head down the grassy field to your left to catch this flustering overhead view. On this day, a powerful storm was rolling in, casting everything in gray.

As the name suggests, you can shout your order from the sidewalk and by the time you get to the counter, they’ve already served up your empanadas. Try the time-tested caldo mayo, a house-specialty beef broth that’s a perfect hangover remedy, especially with spicy salsa de ají, or hot pepper salsa, on top. Members of the Chilean judiciary are often seen here having a tintito, a dainty glass of red wine, before beginning the day’s proceedings. El Rapido opened in the thirties and has been operating ever since—don’t miss this quaint and tasty bit of history.

After making her name in Paris in the 1920s, American-born singer and actress Josephine Baker became a French citizen and, like many artists and intellectuals of the era, traveled often to Morocco, which was then a French protectorate. In the early 1940s, she stayed at a royal guest house at the invitation of the Pashah of Marrakech—a riad that, today, has been restored and re-launched in her honor as a boutique hotel named “Star.” Though just a 15-minute walk from Jemaa el-Fnaa square, the riad is hidden away in a more residential—and car-free—part of the walled old town, adding to the feeling that you’re staying in a private home.

Britain-based owners Lucie and Mike Wood, who also own three other riad hotels in town, spent over two years restoring the property to reflect a mix of traditional Moroccan craftsmanship and the Art Deco style of Baker’s heyday. Along with hand-carved plaster, beautiful lamps, and original cedar woodwork, the hotel features Baker-related memorabilia and books as well as period items sourced from auctions. Past the ground-floor plunge pool and dining area (scene of the abundant daily breakfast) are 13 individually decorated rooms and suites. The Josephine has an oversized tub, the Jazz features carved cedar doors and a fireplace, and the Chiquita sits next to the lovely rooftop terrace, where guests can enjoy views of the Atlas Mountains from their lounge chairs. Also on-site is a small hammam with a steam area and massage room, as well as a cooking school, launched in 2017. When you want to get out and explore, the hotel will provide you with a free local cell phone and GPS-enabled app to help navigate the city.

We spent the night in this Bedoin tent in the Sahara near Erfoud, Morocco. The sand is this color, orange. The desert was actually wet in April, the night was cold and clear. The stars were amazing. Recommended. Many tour companies can arrange an overnight in the desert, either in a hotel at the edge of the dunes or in a private tented encampment.

An oasis so idyllic, you might first think it’s a mirage, Hotel Fellah is an eight-acre retreat that fuses Moroccan culture with a hipster design aesthetic and a farm-to-table ethos. Locals, artists in residence, and guests mingle in the art center and library, and at the educational farm, kids groom donkeys, milk goats or collect eggs that are sold in neighboring villages. The small café opposite the swimming pool is run by Touco, a resident of nearby Tassoultante village. Don’t miss his tagine, or—even better—pick ingredients from the garden and ask him to show you how to make it.

I looked at shoes at every souk in every medina in every city and town in Morocco, but ... unfortunately, their sizing did not cover my apparently giant feet. Oh well. I still enjoyed the looking!

When on the road in south or southwestern Morocco, you may notice a tourist bus that has pulled over and discharged a busload of passengers to run dashing through the trees with their cameras. What might be happening? The answer is simple: tree-climbing goats! Let me explain the trees first -- A huge cottage/co-op industry in Morocco is the production of argan oil, derived from the seed kernel of the fruit of the argan tree, endemic to Morocco. The argan tree grows wild in semi-desert soil and is extremely well adapted to drought and other difficult growing conditions of the region. The species Argania once covered much of North Africa but is now endangered and under protection of UNESCO. Argan oil is valued for its nutritional, cosmetic and medicinal properties, and could be considered one of the rarest oils in the world due the very small growing region. OK, now I’ll explain the goats. Goats love the fruit of these trees so much that they use their climbing ability to get far up into the trees to eat the fruit. Prior to the adoption of modern processing methods, argan oil was once produced by collecting the undigested kernels passed by the goats (sorry, just had to mention that!). Be sure to shop for some of the wonderfully rich lotions and creams made from argan oil; and look for handcrafted soap as well.

Commissioned in 2006 by Morocco’s King Mohammed VI, Royal Mansour is like a medina within the city’s Medina. Fifty-three private riads, each three stories high, feel like mini-palaces, with open-air courtyards and on-call butlers. Every detail is an homage to Moroccan craftsmanship, down to the gorgeous zellige ceramic tiles, intricately carved woods, and molded plasterwork created by local artisans.


From April onward, access to a pool is essential to your enjoyment of Marrakech—and canny entrepreneurs have ensured there’s something for every budget. The city has some mega-luxury treats within walking distance of the medina, like the poolside pavilions at the Royal Mansour’s Le Jardin and the pool that launched a thousand photo shoots at La Mamounia. Expect to spend upward of $80 just to get in. There are also plenty of accessibly priced options a little out of town. The top of our list are the ultra-deep, black-tiled, 115-foot long twin pools at the Beldi country club, where $40 gets you a pool pass, a sun lounger beneath the olive trees, and a slap-up barbecue lunch. It gets busy, though, so if you’re after something a little more serene, book a car to take you out to the Jnane Tamsna in the middle of the Palmeraie, where gloriously scented gardens and five serene turquoise pools are hidden away among the date palms. Pool access, including a three-course lunch that fuses Moroccan Mediterranean with more fiery Senegalese flavors, is about the same price. Out at the Fellah Hotel, up-close views of the mighty Atlas Mountains can be soaked up from a shabby-chic poolside terrace over lunch (not included) while rubbing shoulders with the foundation’s artists in residence. Pool access costs $22.

This rooftop bar has a refreshingly inclusive, come-as-you-are vibe. There’s no list at the door, no doorman sizing you up for anything beyond ensuring you’re of legal drinking age. For the prized sunset hour, arrive early—especially during summer—and grab a vintage table or booth by the pool with colorful mismatching chairs and tablecloths. Later in the evening, a bar stool is the place to be, watching the action and joining in when singalong-ready funk and disco tunes start playing. The overgrown garden that tops the circa 1924 Commercial Exchange building makes for a magical setting, softening the cityscape beyond. Atmosphere aside, the cocktails are what bring people here; masterminds Gabs Orta and Elad Zvi—who first started Broken Shaker as a pop-up in Miami—are known worldwide for their creative approach. It’s tempting to order drinks based on their clever names alone—not the worst idea—but be sure to try the Electro Lit, tequila with curry turmeric cordial, coconut water, fresh lime juice, and angostura bitters.

Hit the Fondouk Kaat Smen, otherwise known as the honey souk, to taste your way through as many as 17 different wild honeys for sale. Varieties range from familiar orange blossom and lavender to more unusual treats like caper and carob. If jujube is available, note that it’s favored for its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, is considered to be particularly good for the liver and is locally consumed more as a medicine than something to spread on toast. People travel from afar to take this honey home, so the proprietor, Mr. Hicham, is used to packing it for air travel. Pop around the corner to the spice shop on Rue Bouhaj to stock up on freshly ground spices, too, like lemon-scented cumin, rich red paprika, ground ginger, sweet and earthy turmeric, and heady cinnamon.

Los Cóbanos is a picturesque stretch of golden sand, framed by a fringe of palm trees, perfect for relaxation. The waters here are home to colorful reefs, which are protected by the government, so the beach is particularly popular as the point of departure for snorkeling and scuba trips with licensed outfitters. Expect to see sea snails and urchins, colorful tropical fish, and even some submerged ship wrecks. The best time of year to visit for snorkeling and scuba diving in the area is between November and February.

On the other hand, the reefs mean it isn’t a particularly good place to visit for surfing. Even so, it is one of the most beautiful beaches to visit while you’re in the town of Los Cobanos, a small fishing community just south of Acajutla in El Salvador.

A walk through the spice market in one of Cairo’s most historic bazaars is an incredible sensory experience. As we walked down narrow paths, everyone around us coughed from the overwhelming smell of pepper and other spices.

Contemporary touches meet Moroccan influences at this hilltop escape overlooking the medina. Homemade pastries greet you on arrival in the neutral-hued guest rooms, which balance floor-to-ceiling windows, sleek furnishings, and glass-walled marble baths with brightly patterned rugs, decorative vases, and Moorish lamps. The minimalist hammam is the highlight at the hotel’s Givenchy spa, while the Atlas mountain backdrop serves as eye candy beyond the chaise-lined infinity pool. Should you seek more spirited diversions, a stylish rooftop bar pulses with live music and DJ sets on the weekends. Sip champagne as the sun sets over Fes, then sample local delicacies like quail and almond tagine or roasted cockerel stuffed with raisins and semolina by candlelight at Amaraz restaurant.

In a swift four minutes, the Dubrovnik cable car will deliver you to the top of Mount Srdi for awe-inspiring views of the Old Town and Elaphite Islands. On clear days, you can even see Italy far out on the horizon. Next to the cable-car station is Napoleon’s Fort Royal, an immense stone fortress that played a strategic role in the 1992 Siege of Dubrovnik during the Croatian War of Independence. Today, the fort houses the Museum of Contemporary History, which showcases artifacts from the Dubrovnik battlefields as well as a BBC film that vividly illustrates the events of 1991 and 1992.

Sri Srinivasa Perumal Temple is a popular landmark in Little India, where much of Singapore’s sizable Tamil Hindu community works and worships. Originally a simple building on a plot of land, the temple became something entirely different in the mid-1960s with the addition of an elaborate five-layer gopura, or gatehouse tower. Each stepped level of the tower’s roof is crowded with vividly painted statues of royalty, dancers, and deities, as well as candy-colored architectural elements, all of which creates a remarkable celebratory effect. The temple has been granted protected status as a national monument by the government.