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When Bouillon Bilk first opened in 2011, Montréal’s restaurant critics were intrigued. The chef, François Nadon, had worked at several of the city’s top restaurants but was largely unknown, and the restaurant was located on an undistinguished stretch of boulevard St-Laurent. But it soon became both a critical and popular favorite. The contemporary, minimal space is decidedly unstuffy compared with many of Montréal’s leading restaurants. Similarly, the menu may be gourmet but it’s also daring, with ingredients and preparations from Asia complementing French dishes and techniques. You can start with Japanese yellowtail, move on to a pasta dish, and end with a selection of Québecois cheeses, if you choose. There are also fresh oysters on the menu at both lunch and dinner.

Poutine is the stuff of legends, much to the chagrin of many Canadians. It is the one food non-Canadians seem to know the most about, and a snack of this heavy dish is at the top of the list for most visitors to Montreal. Even though it can be found throughout Canada, poutine got its start in Quebec back in the 1950s and truly is a collage—some would say train wreck—of ingredients. The classic recipe is simple, really: french fries topped with brown gravy and curd cheese. But this simple explanation really doesn’t do it justice. Like many other comfort foods, poutine may not be the healthiest dish, but there is just something satisfying about the experience. I love sharing a big bowl amongst friends, each armed with a fork scouting out the best fries and melty cheese curds as the gravy drips drop by drop into the bowl below. There are a thousand varieties of poutine, including BBQ, lobster, and even foie gras, but there’s nothing like the simple original version.

Montreal’s very own Prince of Darkness is best known for his mastery of soft, buttery black leather and his play with textures and details such as zippers and horse hair, but he’s expanded his recent collections into a less gothic and more widely accessible styles that have even branched out into color ¬– albeit dark browns and blues. The women’s wear designer has created collections for off-the-rack store Bedo, but to get a real sense of his unique vision and approach to form, best head down to his sleek boutique on chic Rue Saint-Paul in Old Montreal. Here you’ll find statement pieces to be worn to your next gala as well as rugged wear you can integrate into your everyday.

Enjoy a drink by the fire in après-ski bliss or dine on a spacious deck overlooking the green slopes on a long summer night—Whistler serves up plenty of tasty options for eating, drinking, and living the good life in this British Columbia mountain village.

The Mile End is Montreal‘s version of Brooklyn, Sodermälm, Shoreditch, and Kreuzberg put together. Hipsters, exotic eateries, and vintage shops abound. Mile End is also the cradle of Montreal’s music scene, cultural diversity and all things trendy and fashionable (but not too mainstream, of course). But more than just a hotbed for tuque-wearers and vintage shops, Mile End is a place where many different cultures coexist and enjoy the best of one another, in a post-industrial meets residential tree-lined avenues type of backdrop. Greek eateries meet Hasidic Jews-owned bagel shops, and artsy coffee shops meet up-and-coming, edgy designers. A dynamic area that should be explored by the senses first and foremost, and where most visitors could easily picture themselves settling down, and never leave. With icons like Wilensky’s, Boris’ doughnuts, and Arts Café, there really is no such thing as being bored in the Mile End—even for Montrealers!

Opened in 1880 as Canada‘s first natural history museum, the Redpath Museum has a charmingly old-school Victorian quality to it. The collection of artifacts assembled by intrepid explorers ranges from taxidermy and Egyptian mummies to geological samples and—one of its most prized possessions—a handwritten letter from Charles Darwin. The museum is located at the heart of McGill University, long one of Canada‘s most important institutions of higher learning. Most of the buildings on campus, all in a handsome gray stone on a lovely bit of green in downtown Montréal at the base of Mount Royal, date from the 19th and early 20th centuries.

Place des Arts, the jewel of the Quartier des Spectacles in the center of town, is a cultural complex attached to the Musée d’art contemporain de Montréal that unites five performance spaces, including the Maison Symphonique de Montréal. It has two main performance arts spaces: Théâtre Maisonneuve, a nearly 1,500-seat modern-day rendition of a classical Italian theatre where dance organizations including Grands Ballets Canadiens regularly perform; Salle Wilfrid-Pelletier, which with just under 3,000 seats is better suited for big, boisterous Opéra de Montréal productions; and the smaller, 400-seat Cinquième Salle, home to series of shows by Danse Danse, among others. Photo: Susan Moss

The Lantern Festival is without a doubt my favorite festival—ever, in the world. I’m not even sure why. It’s not star-studded. It’s not particularly big. It’s not in the warmest conditions. But damn it if it’s not the prettiest thing. The pathways of the Chinese Gardens are lit up at nightfall, illuminating hundreds of lanterns scattered around the pond. Some are animal-shaped, others are human-shaped, and together they create this amazing scenery that seems to have traveled halfway across the world. Which isn’t that far from the truth, technically. The lanterns are designed by Chinese artists in China and assembled in Montreal over the summer. If you are visiting Montreal in the fall, this event is a must-do. Until November 3rd at the Montreal Botanical Gardens.

The Place Bonaventure is widely recognized as one of the most important buildings constructed in Canada in the 1960s, though that’s not to say it’s universally loved. It’s a regular contender for the title of Montreal’s ugliest building. For the student of architecture, however, whether armchair or otherwise, it’s worth a visit to see an outstanding example of brutalist architecture. Architect Raymond Affleck’s vision was to turn the city inside-out in a building appropriate for its location in a cold climate. The Place Bonaventure was designed to include a conference center, hotel, and several floors of retail space, all along internal streets while the building presents a foreboding exterior of ribbed concrete (echoing the design of the seminal Architecture School at Yale University by Paul Rudolph) to the street. The entire complex included 3.1 million square feet of floor space, making it the largest building in the world when it was completed (in 1967). Much of the retail space was converted to offices in later renovations, though the conference center and the hotel (now the Hôtel Bonaventure Montréal) remain. The photo here was taken inside the hotel—a walk around their common spaces will give you a taste of Affleck’s vision for a new urban architecture.

Running from the waterfront to Montréal’s City Hall, at the opposite end of a gently sloping hill, Place Jacques-Cartier has been a center of the city’s street life for more than two centuries. It was laid out at the beginning of the 19th century after the Château Vaudreuil, which had stood on the site, burned down in 1803. Originally known as New Market Place, the square stays true to those roots with the many vendors who sell flowers here in the summer. You’ll find them on sunny days alongside the outdoor tables of the cafés that line the square. In December, Place Jacques-Cartier is dressed for the holidays with rows of Christmas trees. Given the name of the square, you might expect the column at its western end to be topped with a statue of the French explorer. Instead, the English admiral Lord Horatio Nelson looks over the city from the perch. Erected in 1809, it is Montréal’s oldest public monument and preceded London‘s column honoring Nelson by three decades. To this day, the choice of hero to honor still causes some resentment in this largely francophone city.

With a playful menu divided into sections named “warm-up,” “game,” “set,” and “match” sections, Le Filet volleys some exceptional dishes at guests. Opened in 2011, the restaurant specializes in seafood but does an equally good job with meat dishes, including duck and venison. It comes recommended highly by Ritz-Carlton concierge Simon Bajouk.

On Jean-Talon near Parc Avenue in the rapidly gentrifying neighborhood between Mile End and Park Ex known as Mile Ex, Bar Le Ritz PDB is a large open space with a few tables by the big front windows (always open in summer afternoons so that the fun spills out into the street) and a warm, relaxed atmosphere. It’s better known as a show-bar than a hangout bar, though that is slowly changing with expanded opening hours and a wider range of drink options. Like most Montreal music clubs, anyone can reserve a spot to play here; but the average night tends to lean towards indie rock, post-punk, alternative pop sounds.

A Montreal favorite, this wine bar is known for its elegant food and drinks— and comes recommended highly by Ritz-Carlton concierge Simon Bajouk. The wine selection is vast and the staff is extremely helpful in guiding visitors to something that they like. “Trios,” aka flights, are another good way to taste through a well curated selection. (Cocktails and local Quebecois beer are also available.) The food ranges from snacks like gougeres and nuts to porcini arancini and short ribs. A dish of green beens with truffle oil and almonds was fresh, light, and delicious; the charcuterie plate was a generous offering of various local salumi.

The French chef Daniel Boulud made his name in New York, where he oversees seven restaurants and has since expanded his culinary empire to six other outposts around the globe. His venture in Montréal makes perfect sense, with Québecois cuisine combining French traditions and techniques with New World ingredients—not unlike Boulud himself. The space—by Super Potato, one of the hottest design firms today—is elegantly restrained, with smoked glass details, wooden floors, and a contemporary enclosed fireplace warming and lighting the room. Boulud uses the best of Québec’s produce in dishes centered on local foie gras, duck, and salmon. The result is refined yet soulful contemporary French dishes, prepared by Maison Boulud executive chef Riccardo Bertolino. In warmer months, guests can dine alfresco, while in the winter you can take in the snowy scene from the restaurant’s enclosed greenhouse. Image courtesy of Ritz-Carlton Montreal.

Rustic elegance is the order of the day at La Champagnerie, a champagne-only bar in Old Montreal. Between the delicious cocktails, heaven-sent food, and exposed brick walls of this historic building, the drinking experience will be memorable. The menu features over 50 different brands of bubbly (including real champagne, cava, and prosecco) and a very entertaining sabering act, as well as brie poutine and oysters. Contrary to popular belief, la Champagnerie isn’t that expensive. Yes, there is the odd $500+ bottle, but visitors can easily enjoy a meal and a cocktail or two without needing to remortgage their house. A very nice way to spend an evening, if you ask me—champagne, Old Montreal, and good music. Santé!