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If you’re looking to escape the tourist hubbub in Dubrovnik’s historic core, follow the locals to Lokrum. Just a 15-minute ferry ride from the Old Town, the island offers magnificent nature walks through botanical gardens and olive groves. Paths climb up to sites like the oldest Benedictine monastery in the region and Napoleon’s Fort Royal at the very top, passing native peacocks along the way. Come for a relaxing stroll, a picnic in the shade, or a refreshing dip in the sparkling Adriatic.

Melbourne’s market culture is obviously very much alive and, in the case of Queen Victoria Market, has been since the 1870s.


Food stalls to try: Börek; Bratwurst Shop & Co.; American Doughnut Kitchen; Gozleme Turkish Café; Le Croissant des Halles; Pizza by Nature; La Cantina; Sushi Kissaten; Pide Bread Bakery; Spanish Donut Van.

This appeared in the May 2014 issue.

It’s slightly unnerving when you’re seated too close to the next table in a jam-packed parrilla (steakhouse), the clatter of dishes and voices and the televised futbol game in the background, and your stoic waiter, a giant of a man in a stained white apron, approaches your table. As you tell him what you’d like to eat - steak, naturally, and papas fritas (french fries) and a pinguino (penguin-shaped pitcher) of the house Malbec, you notice that he’s not writing anything down - in fact, he’s not looking at you at all. He saunters off and you wonder if your dinner will ever arrive. A few minutes later, he’s back, plonking a basket of bread on the table, splashing the wine on the paper tablecloth as he pours your drink. And then, course by course, all the dishes you ask for arrive, simply presented on white plates, and the roar of the game and the conversation around you rises to a pitch.


This is Desnivel, a bare-bones San Telmo parrilla that’s nearly turned into a caricature of itself. Some days you’ll find more tourists than Argentinians. Other days, it’s a bunch of local guys sitting around digging into the restaurant’s famous deep-fried beef empanadas. Love it or hate it, it’s a Buenos Aires icon.

Given Ipanema’s highly fashionable status, it’s no surprise that its first luxury hotel comes courtesy of aesthetic superstar Philippe Starck, who outfitted the property—his first in Brazil—with mid-century modern furniture evoking Rio’s Bossa Nova glory days. Rooms include luxe bedding, high-pressure showers, and complimentary flip-flops from Brazilian brand Osklen, while public spaces feature Starck’s Surrealist “L’oreille Qui Voit” (“ears that see”) mirrors to maximize water views. In fact, the entire hotel takes advantage of its oceanfront location—even the meeting space has a sea-view terrace.

The Fasano family made its name a century ago with Italian restaurants so, naturally, the hotel’s Al Mare takes a Mediterranean bent, serving expertly prepared seafood under sparkling Murano chandeliers. Elsewhere in the hotel, the modest fitness center offers complimentary personal trainers to guests, while the Asian-influenced spa features a Vichy shower on the roof. The surrounding beach scene may be hot during the day, but the Fasano’s rooftop infinity pool and bar—exclusive to hotel guests—is the place to be come sunset. Grab a drink and watch the sun go down over Aropador, Ipanema, and Leblon beaches and Rio’s iconic mountains.

March 5th, 2008 If you want steeps you go to Jackson Hole, right on the other side of the mountains. But routinely, as the storms moved toward the east, they dump even more on this side of the range. There isn’t a whole lot of difficult terrain, but as you can see here, its around if you look for it. I look for it... to avoid it. haha. As a solid Blue Square, sometimes Black Diamond skier, Grand Targhee offers a good amount of terrain and probably a chance to ski in the knee-deep.

Set amidst the quaint hanoks (traditional Korean houses) of tourist favorite Bukchon Hanok Village, this upscale brewery serves a special kind of Korean alcohol that in days gone by was served only to the ruling gentry class. Made with rice and brewed three times, Samhaeju was popular during the Jeseon Dynasty, but production halted when the Japanese colonization of Korea began in 1910. Working to revive this nearly lost traditional beverage, the brewmaster leads tours and shows visitors how this traditional liquor is made. After the tour, it’s tasting time, so come thirsty. Reservations are required and English isn’t spoken—bring an interpreter. 15, Samcheong-ro 9-gil, Jongno-gu

This aquatic mammal goes by many names: the Panda, Skunk or Piebald dolphin, as well as Commerson’s dolphin. Its official name came from naturalist Philibert Commerson, who discovered the breed in 1767 in the Strait of Magellan during his voyage around the world. Oddly, Commerson’s dolphins are often seen swimming upside down, a behavior that marine biologists speculate allows them to better spot their prey. Overall, this is a relatively small dolphin, typically measuring from one to 1.5 meters (three to five feet) in length and weighing up to 86 kilograms (190 pounds). Unlike in other dolphin breeds, Commerson’s females are larger than males. These acrobatic animals are often seen leaping, spinning and twisting as they follow boats through the frigid water.

Why we love it: A seaside sanctuary that marries high design with local adventure

The Highlights:
- The mix of Mediterranean and mid-century California style
- Working record players and vintage vinyl libraries in place of TVs in guest rooms
- Complimentary morning yoga, plus an “Adventure Collection” full of bikes, kayaks, surfboards, and hiking and snorkeling gear

The Review:
Opened in 2018, Hotel Joaquin pairs downtown cool with coastal elegance. The property comes courtesy of Paul Makarechian, who grew up in Orange County and now owns Auric Road, a collection of “petite resorts” that also includes Korakia Pensione in Palm Springs and Sonoma Coast Villa Resort & Spa in Bodega, California. Once a roadside motel, Joaquin now blends elements of St. Bart’s, the Mediterranean, and mid-century SoCal beach culture for an exclusive yet relaxed feel, with curated artwork and vintage finds around every corner. Light floods the guest rooms, some of which have balconies and private patios (book La Vue for the hotel’s only picture window, framing views of the ocean and Catalina Island). Each room also includes a working record player and vinyl library, as well as Anichini linens, Le Labo bath products, and artisanal snacks curated by Farm to People. The bathrooms pull out all the design stops with imported marble, hand-painted tiles, and brass fixtures.

At on-site restaurant Saline, guests can enjoy smoothies and other light fare for breakfast, wholesome salads and sandwiches for lunch, and Mediterranean-inspired share plates for dinner, along with house spritzes and creative cocktails all day long. When not lounging at the pool, take advantage of the hotel’s Adventure Collection, which includes complimentary surfboards, diving gear, bicycles, and more for exploring Laguna Beach. Should you prefer to hang on the beach, hotel staff will even set up your chairs, pack you a picnic, and deliver water sport equipment to Shaw’s Cove, just a two-minute walk from the property’s garden gate.

Note: You must be over 21 to reserve a room and at least 18 to stay at Hotel Joaquin. Service animals only.

This gem right off Bourbon Street is close to the action but far enough (and insulated enough) to make you feel like you can get away from the frenetic pace of the city’s most famous avenue at a moment’s notice. Guest rooms are well-appointed and comfy, with plantation-shuttered windows, plush beds and sleek bathrooms. Plus, every guest gets a voucher for a welcome drink in the hotel’s smoke-free bar, the Bourbon O. Be sure to catch live music there on Friday nights, as well as bartender Cheryl Charming, whom a local magazine named Mixologist of the Year in 2014. Back at the hotel, the Roux on Orleans restaurant can satisfy breakfast, lunch and dinner desires, and a heated saltwater pool makes lazing about in a lounge chair all day very, very easy. But if you want to be the ultimage envy of Bourbon Street revelers, make sure to reserve a balcony suite; it features a porch overlooking all the boozy revelry below and lets you party above the action.

When the Waldorf Astoria opened its Amsterdam outpost in 2014, the iconic brand took six 17th- and 18th-century canal houses—two of which used to be official residences for the mayor, and at least three of which have architectural details by iconic artists—and transformed them into a distinctively Dutch version of world-class luxury. Located in the heart of the historic city, on the picturesque Herengracht canal, the color palette that runs throughout the four eateries (one of which received two Michelin stars within seven months of opening) and the 93 refined rooms were lifted straight from Vermeer’s famous Girl With the Pearl Earring painting. Soothing shades of lapis lazuli and ochre harmoniously complement the views through the large, white-framed windows, whether of the canal or the lush interior garden. The Waldorf also brought the brand’s signature superlative service and decadent spa, guaranteeing that the Amsterdam iteration would be just as beloved by the international elite as the original New York hotel.

Mount Royal Park starts at the edge of the city just beyond the McGill campus and runs alongside neighborhoods like Plateau before rising to the top of 764-foot-tall Mount Royal (Mont Réal), the hill that gives the city its name. The twisting roads and paths of this crown jewel of Montréal’s park system were initially laid out by Frederick Law Olmsted, who also designed New York’s Central Park. While Olmsted’s plan was not followed in all its details, the final result was true to his vision of a woody park that takes advantage of the site’s hilly topography. There are two belvederes with views of the city skyline and the St. Lawrence River, and one of Montréal’s iconic landmarks, a 103-foot-high cross, sits at its northern end. The park is most popular in summer, but residents flock here in every season, to enjoy the colorful foliage in the fall and the cross-country ski trails and toboggan runs in the winter.

This lodge offers a private island stay, paired with the option of experiencing the Swahili architecture, music, and culture of Stone Town (Zanzibar’s main town, 20 minutes from Mnemba by boat plus a 90-minute drive). Ten high-ceilinged, thatched bandas are footsteps from a flour-fine sand beach and are romantically furnished with elaborately carved wooden beds. For those who want a change of scenery, verandas and shaded beach beds offer a variety of places to sleep off all the early morning safari wake-up calls. Just under one mile in circumference, Mnemba Island has permanent residents that include poodle-sized Suni and rabbit-sized Ader’s duiker antelope, breeding doves, and enormous terrestrial coconut crabs. Sunbathers can spot dolphins from the beach year-round, and scuba divers might encounter the occasional whale shark.

Set on 12 lush, cloud-forested acres next to the Urumbamba River, this eco-resort (a member of the National Geographic Unique Lodges of the World) is practically a destination in and of itself. Here, 83 rustic-but-chic, whitewashed adobe casitas are tucked among a sanctuary of terraced hills, stone paths, and waterfalls that are home to 214 bird species and, at 372 cataloged varieties, the largest collection of native orchids in the world. Guests are encouraged to hike around the grounds (the hotel can also arrange for excursions farther afield), visit the resort’s Ecocenter, or relax in a naturally heated spring-water pool while listening to birdsong.

The superior casitas are the simplest accommodations, but still come with plush robes, hand-crafted Andean slippers, and a separate dining area. Superior deluxe rooms feature fireplaces, while suites offer terraces with garden views. The most lavish option, the Villa Inkaterra includes an open-air shower, plunge pool, and 24-hour butler service. When not luxuriating in your room, visit the glass-walled restaurant, which has stunning views of the river, or head into Agua Calientes, which is just a few minutes away and offers several other dining options.

I’d like to believe that had my public library been as stunning as the Black Diamond in Copenhagen, I would have spent more time studying at the library and less time doing whatever one does when one is supposed to be doing their reading. But the reality is that I probably would have spent most of the time staring out at the water and at the handsome people who wander through its naturally lit halls. The Black Diamond is the newer annex to The Danish Royal Library. It gets its name from the black granite, tinted windows and trapezoidal design (isosceles I think; perhaps I would be more sure had I worked harder on that geometry homework). When you turn the corner, it peers out like a large warship: dark, massive, and slightly foreboding. But the people and bicycles scattered about near the library’s entrance bely the need for concern. At the library’s entrance there is a cafe perfect for you to steady yourself with coffee, pastries, and more people watching. The library holds an art exhibit, concerts, The National Museum of Photography, The Museum of Danish Cartoon Art, as well as its own collection. But the pièce de résistance is the atrium that overlooks the harbor. Take the escalator up a few floors and turn and seize the view. But don’t gasp too loudly: there are people probably trying to do their geometry homework.

This Neoclassical building from the mid-19th century stands at one end of a large urban park. The interior of the Capitol is worth a visit—its rotunda and historic rooms reflect the history of lawmaking and governing in this state. The small exhibits from every California county highlight the natural beauty and local specialties from all parts of the state. They line the downstairs addition, which is enhanced with Art Deco details and includes the governor’s office. Outside the Capitol is Capitol Park, one of my favorite outdoor spaces in Sacramento. The paths wind past trees from all over the world (a map is available), memorials, a succulent garden, and a rose garden at the other end of the park.