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Gordon Hempton has spent the past 30 years warning people about the consequences of the disappearance of natural quiet on Earth, which he calls a “solar-powered jukebox.” And now that the world is a little less noisy, he’s asking us, once again, to listen.

Seven places to hit in this very lucky, old Hawaiian town.

Overview

The site of the historic church Hale Halawaio Holualoa has likely been used for ages. Old konane (a game) boards have been excavated from the area along with canoe landings and a grave site. The current building, erected in 1855, was made from stone and coral lime. The building still holds Sunday services, though this congregations now calls themselves Living Stones Church.

With luxury resorts, quaint motels, condo rentals, and campgrounds, the Big Island offers a wide variety of accommodations. If you’re looking for high-end resorts, the Kona area on the west side of the island is your best bet, while travelers who prefer a low-key condo or B&B will be better off on the eastern Hilo side. Be sure to book in advance, especially during events such as the Ironman Race in September and the Merrie Monarch Festival in April.

With so many coffees to choose from, it will be hard to choose what to bring home. Coffee is great souvenir and all the shops and farms offer their beans and grounds along with coffee mugs, tshirts, and other souvenir items. Kona Coffee and Tea has a store and a cafe where you can visit and taste the flavors before you decide what to take home!

The ancient Hawaiians revered mantas in very high regard. With up to 25-foot wingspans, these majestic sea creatures feed on some of the sea’s smallest organisms: zooplankton. Strap on a snorkel to watch them dine at night, doing slow, gape-mouthed barrel rolls as they swallow copepods, mysid shrimp and arrow worms. The two most popular Big Island sites—off Kona International Airport and near the Outrigger Kona Resort and Spa—have suffered overcrowding lately, which is terrible for both the rays and the people who love them. Try Jack’s Diving Locker for a scuba descent and Eka Canoe Adventures for snorkeling, after checking out guidelines from the Manta Pacific Research Foundation.

Kona coffee is famous around the world as one of Hawaii’s best known products. The relatively small coffee growing area on the Big Island of Hawaii produces only a small fraction of the world’s coffee beans. The limited production makes Hawaii Island’s caffeinated product like liquid gold for Kona coffee lovers. Among the hundreds of coffee farms on the Big Island, Country Samurai Coffee Company operates a lush and green outfit on the Kona slopes and still grows their coffee trees in a natural and traditional method that enables them to grow tall—up to 18 feet. Harvesting requires ladders and can be time-consuming, but the trees are able to develop a larger root system, pull in more nutrients from the volcanic soil, and produce more coffee berries. To try these distinctly grown beans, visit the family owned Country Samurai Coffee shop in Kailua-Kona. The shop sells several other items including chocolate covered coffee beans and macadamia nuts and Hawaiian teas.

The best Kona coffee I have ever tasted. EVER! When he pronounced the winner in Gevalia’s Cupping Contest in 2010, judge John King said, “We were in 100% agreement that Buddha’s Cup is the winner. The trick is keeping the classic Kona mellow, sweet profile. and clearly Buddha’s was the truest to that old style, old school Kona profile. " Well done to the ohana of Brewmaster Manny Ochoa and Chris Coleman. Visit all 3 award-winning farms in the area; Imagine, Kona Kulana and Buddha’s to see hand selected coffee beans drying in the sun and learn about the multi- step process expertly done by this family to bring you the best coffee EVER! 808-322-6712 for tour info and to order. Their gift shops sell some beautiful tote bags made from coffee sacks and repurposed aloha print fabric. The coffee cups are a favorite of mine.

The newly refurbished Sheraton Kona Keauhou Bay Resort is stylish, with a large pool and water slide. But it was the history and the view from the hotel (located off the famous Ali’i Drive) that won me over. The hotel gives you an excellent vantage point to the bay around which King Kamehameha III was born (stillborn, as legend has it). He grew up to become Hawai’i’s powerful and benevolent ruler, and sought to unite the people. He called The Big Island his home and is beloved by many. The hotel offers several notable cultural markers, including two heiau (Hawaiian temple) replicas.

The Mauna Kea Beach Hotel sits on the Big Island’s Kohala Coast. Beautiful sandy beaches cater to sun worshipers while the proximity to Waimea and Kailua-Kona make it a great place for travelers who seek ocean sports, coffee culture, or horseback riding. After absorbing the sun, snorkeling, and surf, a trip to the beach bar is the perfect place to enjoy a bit of shade while sipping on cold, refreshing, tropical drinks. An evening at the beach bar with a Dirty Hula Girl may be the perfect ending to a day at this beach hotel.


The sweet smell of plumeria floats on gentle trade winds into each guest room at the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel. When entering the room, you may be surprised that floor-to-ceiling picture windows and a beautiful private lanai (patio) beckon you to step back outside—closer to the rhythmic surf and paradise in nature. In the hotel’s main building, each morning you can wake up to warm accent colors in your room that recall the previous evening’s sunset. Natural light fills the entire space and you can brew a lovely cup of Kona coffee before leaving your room to face the world. A 2009 remodel of the main building rooms along with a 2013 beachfront wing renovation enable guests to unwind in the comfort of updated interiors that still remain true to Laurance S. Rockefeller’s original vision.


Local beach access at the Mauna Kea Resort: If you go early (7:30 a.m.) there are only 40 parking spots open to get to this hidden gem. Locals know that you say “beach access” at the imposing gate for those who want to swim in its clear blue water; check it out in North Kohala. Spectacular white sand beach with some shade trees. The 40 parking spots get filled by 9 a.m. or sooner so go early. It’s also good for boogie boarding.

PropertyThe architecture at Mauna Kea Beach Hotel certainly evokes Laurance S. Rockefeller’s sense of outdoor space with breezy landscaped covered walkways and a sparkling blue tile floor in the lobby that seems to bring the calm waters of Kaunaoa Bay right into the hotel. Another not-to-miss feature on the grounds includes the Collection: a fascinating assortment of Pacific and Asian art. More than 1,600 museum pieces blend into the hotel’s ambiance so well that you will always find new treasures on each visit. Better than a museum, these pieces of history are tangible to guests who want to inspect the stitches in a quilt, photograph the colors in a carving, or feel the texture of embellishments on a statue.


After absorbing the sun, snorkeling, and surf, a trip to the beach bar is the perfect place to enjoy a bit of shade while sipping on cold, refreshing, tropical drinks. An evening at the beach bar with a Dirty Hula Girl may be the perfect ending to a day at this beach hotel.
Vino and Vinyasa (Friday evenings): Follow your sun salutations with sauvignon blanc and your planks with pinot noir at this weekly class-slash-happy hour held ocean-side on Friday evenings. It’s only fitting that the sessions focus on Vinyasa, a yoga style that synchronizes movement with breath, because you’ll want to inhale the salty sea air deeply as you gaze at a fiery Big Island sunset.


Glow Stand-Up Paddling and Canoeing: Kauna’oa Bay’s large plankton population attracts manta rays, and you’ll find yourself gliding alongside them during this nocturnal excursion. Thanks to LED lights carefully strapped on your board, your hour-long jaunt may also include a parrotfish sighting (they’re intrigued by the boards’ shimmery glow.) You can treat stand-up paddle boarding as a workout, or simply stargaze as you float. New paddlers can take an introductory canoe ride while more seasoned guests can explore the Kohala Coast’s caves and coves on a private group charter.

A little peckish for lunch, I dropped in at Splashers on a recommendation from a street artist on Alii Drive. Though I was on my own, I quickly felt embraced by the local aloha and friendly atmosphere of the restaurant. I people watched - a group of overdressed business people from the mainland meeting clients in Kailua-Kona sat to my left, a family of four sat several tables in front of me, and a few couples were seated along the railing of the open air grill for prime views of the shops below and the ocean beyond Alii Drive. Blue water cups reminded me of a diner while the open air atmosphere reminded me I was in the tropics. The food (I ordered fish tacos) was filling and flavorful, the bar was preparing for a busy afternoon and evening of cocktails and beers, and staff were fluttering about tending to their late lunch crowd. Sitting on top of the Kona Farm Direct cafe, you will definitely want to grab a coffee after lunch to keep you going the rest of the afternoon.

Very few people have the willpower to resist a candy shop. Anyone with curiosity about the candy making process will be drawn to Big Island Candies with the big picture windows into their production room. Their small batches ensure fresh shortbread cookies and chocolate truffles are distributed to their resellers and customers. The shortbread comes in several Hawaiian flavors like macadamia nut, pineapple, and kona mocha. There are so many chocolates to choose from, but my pick is the Hawaiian macadamia nut caramel cluster, with a side of milk chocolate macadamia nut toffee, and a last course of dark chocolate covered whole Kona coffee beans. If your candies make it home, they will be the perfect gift for friends and family.

One of the more relaxing evenings away from home was spent at the Outrigger Hotel in Kailua-Kona on the Big Island of Hawaii. I checked in with no problems and was even upgraded to a partial ocean view room! I had enough time to mosey on through town to grab some dinner and watch the sun sink to the ocean (complete with a green flash). The hotel was comfortable and situated next to a beach filled with a all sorts of fish and sea turtles. Snorkeling at Kahaluu Bay Beach Park, right next door to the hotel in the morning was one of the best snorkeling experiences I have had in Hawaii. The water was clear and the marine life was over-abundant! Sitting at the beach bar in the evening with live music and the sound of the surf was enough to relax the body and soothe the soul for a great night of sleep! If you are local, make sure to book their Kamaaina rate. **Unfortunately, the Keauhou property has closed. However, the Outrigger has several other properties on the Big Island.

Affectionately called the First Lady of Waikiki, this grande dame opened in 1901. Its gracious architecture harks back to the sugar-plantation era and wraps around a courtyard anchored by a massive banyan. Pull up a chair under its spreading branches—or else a seat overlooking the ocean—and enjoy island-inspired fine dining. East meets West here with appetizers like Kona abalone bourguignon, tempura asparagus with Parmesan custards, and twice-cooked octopus with macadamia romesco. Entrée standouts include the miso salmon and Korean-fusion Beach Bim Bop starring fiddlehead ferns, kimchi Brussels sprouts, and Ali’i mushrooms from Hawaiian grower Hamakua. Save room for its tour-de-force finale: A “dessert tree” with small bites of everything from macarons to red-velvet cheesecake.