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It’s a little strange to find yourself in an Italian restaurant in Merida, when your focus should be the local Yucatean cuisine. But when a young, and talented chef like Stefano Marcelletti decides to cook for you at his brand new restaurant, it’s 100% worth the detour. We had the best seats in the house, right in front of the kitchen, which is separated by a large glass wall from the dining room. The flurry of activity inside was infectious, and the incredible dishes they churned out for us, one after the other, left our rambunctious crowd speechless and in awe. It was a real journey for the senses. Simple plates, such as a caprese salad, made our taste buds explode. At the end we all felt it was a good break from our intense foray into Yucatean food over the past few days. The restaurant’s interios is modern, perhaps even a little bit industrial in style. It looked like mostly locals ate here, as we didn’t spot a other tourists. If you’re ready to take a break from Mexican food, or simply in the mood for some scrumptious Italian fare, this is your place. OPEN MON–SAT: 7pm-11pm Oliva Enoteca only takes reservations for 8 and more people. All other will be seated on a first come first serve basis. Calle 47 & Esquina con 54 Colonia Centro, Merida, YUC, MX. Tel. 999.923.3081 >>>A heartfelt thank you to Yucatan Tourism for an unforgettable 4 days in the Yucatan, my new favorite place in Mexico! @YucatanTourism #TravelYucatan

This “Palace Greatly Blessed by Heaven” was once the heart of Korea. It was the power center of the Joseon dynasty (1392–1897), and was originally built in 1395—some new digs for a new dynasty. Like the Forbidden City in Beijing, the palace is a complex of buildings—a throne hall, the king’s living quarters and more—a sort of city inside a city, accented by gardens and pavilions. The Japanese flattened the place in the 1590s, and the site remained a ruin until a complete reconstruction in 1867 brought back more than 500 buildings. At the Gwanghwamun Gate, soldiers, beautifully costumed in red robes, still perform the changing of the guard. Seoul has other palaces, but this is the one to see if your time in town is limited.

Tepotzlán is the perfect day trip from Mexico City. A strange and wonderful mixture of colonial heritage and architecture, new age spirituality, and peaceful mountain vistas, this town certainly deserves its UNESCO designation as one of Mexico’s “pueblos mágicos.” According to legend, this town sits on the birthplace of the Aztec serpent god Quetzacóatl, and its impressive pyramid (“Pirámide de Tepozteco,” built in honor of Tepoztécatl, the Aztec god of the harvest) is now a gathering place not only for pre-Colombian enthusiasts, but seekers of all kinds who believe it to be a generator of groovy vibes. The pyramid is located at the top of of a cliff above the town and the 2km hike is recommended only for the physically fit. If you do go, start out early before it gets too hot and bring plenty of water. Tepotzlán also offers plenty of more down-to-earth attractions, like a beautifully preserved historic center, a selection of nice restaurants and hotels, a bustling crafts market, an interesting monastery and museum, and a world renowned cooking school (lavillabonita.com). For breathtaking views of the valley and cliffs, have a meal at La Sibarita, which is perched on a hill high above town.

Opened in 2011, Reykjavík’s Harpa Concert Hall and Conference Centre is not only the most significant classical music venue in Iceland (home to the Iceland Symphony Orchestra and the Icelandic Opera), but also one of the country’s most striking examples of modern architecture. Located close to the old harbor, the building was part of a larger development meant to breathe life into the downtown district (the plan was abandoned due to the subsequent economic crash, but funds to complete Harpa were found). The coruscating, eye-catching facade was designed by Icelandic-Danish artist Olafur Eliasson, and the spacious interior has four handsome halls, the largest of which can accommodate up to 1,800 seated guests. There are also smaller conference rooms dotted throughout the building, and the ground floor hosts a record shop, café and restaurant, and other public areas. In addition to classical concerts, the venue holds music festivals, pop shows, art exhibitions, and more.

Described by writer Tahir Shah as the “greatest show on Earth,” no visit to Marrakech would be complete without a visit to the famous night market on the Djemaa el Fna. Arrive before sunset and park yourself at one of the various cafés with terraces overlooking the square to watch performers set up; then venture into the fray in search of adventure. Silk-clad acrobats, wide-eyed storytellers, sly snake charmers, jangling belly dancers, and capricious monkey handlers all emerge from the darkness, ringing the edge of the food stalls with their own special brand of entertainment. When you tire of the heckling, prowl the market in search of good things to eat: bite-size morsels of grilled lamb rubbed in cumin, sardines fried in chermoula, peppery snails, and sheep’s heads for the brave. Then nudge up alongside a family of locals at the table and settle in for the feast. If you’re nervous about going it alone, you can sign up for a food tour with Canadian tour guide and all-round good egg Mandy Sinclair of Tasting Marrakech; she’ll help you find the best stalls while introducing you to the secrets and delights of traditional Moroccan street food.

Hiking the French Valley is part of the W-trek through Patagonia’s Torres del Paine National Park. It’s about 16 mi round-trip from Refugio Paine Grande to the French Valley Mirador, to see the French Glacier and the Paine Massif as close as you can get. The trail is diverse and only reaches a steep height at the last 5.5 km on the way there. You begin at Lago Pehoe and take grassy paths through the forested valley, on an terrain that the locals call “Patagonia flat,” i.e. an undulating up and down of several feet. On the way you’ll see tiny magenta--and edible--berries that taste just like apples; you’ll cross small glacial streams where you can fill up your water bottle with fresh, wild water. You’ll trek right by the Cuernos, or the “Horns,” another well-known set of peaks in Torres del Paine. Over the French River you go as you get deeper into the valley, over wobbly rope bridges. The final 5.5 km to the French Valley Mirador has you balancing on thousands of loose boulders on your way up. The very top of the trek feels like being in the middle of a Patagonian fishbowl: Paine Massif to your left, French Glacier in front, the Aleta de Tiburon (the Shark’s Fin) and the Cuernos to the right, and turquoise Lago Pehoe behind you.

Petra flourished more than 2,000 years ago, trading with Rome as an equal before being abandoned after a series of earthquakes in the 4th and 6th centuries C.E. It wasn’t until the 19th century, when European explorers “rediscovered” it, that the ancient city returned to the public consciousness. Now, visitors can walk down the narrow canyon of the siq to the city entrance—as dramatic an approach as any to a tourist attraction on the planet. The canyon opens up onto the carved facade of the Treasury, Petra’s most iconic site. From there, you can explore the cliffside tombs with their colorful bands of sandstone, the Street of Facades, and the amphitheater hewn from living rock. The ancient center lies some distance off, along with the splendid old Monastery, which sits at the top of a steep but rewarding climb. Consider buying a three-day ticket and visiting at different times of day to enjoy the changing light—early in the morning is best for the Treasury, while late afternoon is better for the Royal Tombs.

The Inca Trail is perhaps the most famous trek in Peru. This is the road to Machu Picchu, an ancient route that leads from the Sacred Valley into the heart of the Andes. You must obtain a permit and hire an official guide in order to hike the Inca Trail proper. There are plenty of tour operators in Cusco that offer trips up to Machu Picchu, so you should definitely look at reviews before you choose. For better or for worse, the tours are all-inclusive. The local tour operators employ porters to carry your packs and set up a camp. A team of local chefs will prepare three meals a day, and many hikers come back raving about the delicious meals. Keep in mind that the trek can be tough, especially in the first few days. The trail is often narrow, and it flirts with formidable heights. The mountains in this part of the Andes can rise well over 13,000 feet, and many hikers find themselves suffering from altitude sickness. Make sure to take a few days (in Cusco or the Sacred Valley) to acclimatize before you begin the journey. Finally: make sure to plan ahead! The Peruvian government limits trail access to 500 people per day, including porters. This regulation protects the local ecosystem and the delicate ruins, and it ensures that the trail won’t be too crowded. However, it also means that permits for the peak summer season sell out months in advance. If you aren’t able to get a permit for the classic Inca Trail, never fear: there are various other trails that lead to Machu Picchu.

Crowds may swarm upon it daily from sunrise onwards, but exposure hasn’t dulled the impact of the largest religious monument in the world. Commissioned by King Suryavarman II in the 12th century as the centerpiece of the mighty Khmer empire, the structure is inspired by Hindu sacred design and is estimated to have taken around 30 years to build. The biggest surprise upon visiting might be learning that the vast complex of spires, moats, frescoes, cloisters, and balustrades was constructed in such speedy fashion. You won’t be alone while witnessing it, but sunrise over the iconic temple remains one of the essential experiences in Southeast Asia. A return in the afternoon when the camera-toting hordes have dispersed is also advisable.

This week on Travel Tales by Afar, author Charmaine Craig reveals how an unexpected reunion—and resulting trip to India—changed her future.

Read articles from this print issue of Afar Magazine.

This week on Travel Tales by Afar, writer Santi Elijah Holley shares his 400-mile hitchhiking journey through Oregon—a leap of faith that tested whether a young Black man could find belonging in one of America’s whitest states.

Thursday, March 26, 2026 / 6 p.m.–8 p.m.
At the HALL Arts Hotel

Thursday, March 26, 2026 / 6 p.m.–8 p.m.
At the HALL Arts Hotel

This week on Travel Tales by Afar, we hear from professor and life-long traveler Jim Kitchen, who in the space of one year, traveled 66 miles into space—and seven miles down to the ocean floor.